I second this suggestion. A few years back when I was trouble shooting my issue and subsequently installed the full system, they were extremely helpful.
06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass
- Thread starter TexasCrane
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
My daily driver is a 2006 LC with 164k. At about 159k, it threw a P1445, then nothing until 2 weeks ago. I have now received three P1442s and two P1445s. I read all 19 pages of this thread. It seems the question is not if it will fail, but when it will fail. I just ordered the Gen1 kit and will install asap. Many thanks to all the contributors, and to HT for having a solution.
Maybe it's time for Toyota to be held accountable!
Then the pollution system can be maintained as designed. Which is required by law, since 2005. If it not been for the, environmental laws. We'd likely not have an SAI system or 4.7L VVT in the 100 series platform.
They've a recall on GX, for SAI pump filter failure. They know, all these filters will fail.
They Must know it's a design error, in filter. Filter should have be a better materiel or easily replaceable as a PM.
Then the pollution system can be maintained as designed. Which is required by law, since 2005. If it not been for the, environmental laws. We'd likely not have an SAI system or 4.7L VVT in the 100 series platform.
They've a recall on GX, for SAI pump filter failure. They know, all these filters will fail.
They Must know it's a design error, in filter. Filter should have be a better materiel or easily replaceable as a PM.
Agree. Seems like if it’s not in the service manual, advising to inspect or change out, and it’s failing, then should be at least a service bulletin.
Idk how recalls work, but seems like Toyota would need a upgraded design/material to swap out for a recall but don’t think they do, so not sure how they would do a recall.
The foam in my 2006 was gone and I replaced with new unit. Total price wasn’t too bad and figure it will last another 14 years before maybe need to replace again.
Timing belts appear to last longer than this foam!
Idk how recalls work, but seems like Toyota would need a upgraded design/material to swap out for a recall but don’t think they do, so not sure how they would do a recall.
The foam in my 2006 was gone and I replaced with new unit. Total price wasn’t too bad and figure it will last another 14 years before maybe need to replace again.
Timing belts appear to last longer than this foam!
Replacing the Pump is certainly one solution. But a costly temp solution, that needs repeating at varying time intervals. We've seen some still intact today, which is ~14 years after factory install Others failed much earlier. So if doing pump replacement, add it to timing belt service timing and cost or sooner, may be best. Certainly no more than 7 years or 90K miles.
Toyota does have a TSB out on the SAI system. But it deals with certain DTC (codes). When we get these DTC, it requires all parts of SAI system be replaces.
IMHO it's due to; debris & dust entering system once filter fails.
A class action, should also include cost of damages and cost associated with their failure to even notify us.
I am absolutely positive, the damage goes well beyond the just S.A.I. components.
IMO: All 4.7L VVT engines, MUST do one of the following:
- Replace Pump. A temporary costly solution!
- Block-it-off. Which is not street legal or environmentally sound.
- Modify the filter & it's location. Thereafter, change the modified S.A.I filter in 3 seconds for $20, thereafter.
I created this mod for the 4.7L VVT For those wishing to be street legal, comply with Environment laws and and have a very easily cost effective replaceable filter:
(The title does not include S.A.I. wording, perhaps it should. As this S.A.I pump filter is the cause of many issues, some I've yet to "clearly" disclose)
S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!
We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...
forum.ih8mud.com
Last edited:
Just wanted to give 2 thumbs up for the bypass kits. Have been running one on my 2005 V8 4Runner for many years now and my recently purchased 2007 Cruiser has one which was installed by the prior owner. Seeing this thread, I do need to go back and make sure the prior owner soldered the connections, though.
Paul provided outstanding customer service all those years ago and happy to see he's still providing a great product.
Totally agree Toyota should do something about this (not holding my breath). Bad system design and even worse placement.
Paul provided outstanding customer service all those years ago and happy to see he's still providing a great product.
Totally agree Toyota should do something about this (not holding my breath). Bad system design and even worse placement.
How are your set screws blocking the ports holding up? Anything you would do differently? I am thinking of doing the same thing.I did headers today. Just got the standard headers and a Hewitt kit and I'm doing the permanent SAI-delete.
I plugged all 8 SAI holes in the cylinder heads with 3/8-16 x 1/2" set screws and used high temperature ceramic threadlocker to keep them in. I saw this done on the Toyota 2ZZ engines. It was really easy to tap all of the holes, no issues at all. I got two taps so I used a fresh one on each side. Also used a socket tap extension to be able to get good leverage on it.
If you are doing headers and SAI delete anyway, then save the $400+ and get the 98-05 headers without SAI.
Set screw plugs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FG236LS?tag=ihco-20
High Temp Threadlocker: Amazon.com: Vibra-TITE 19960 Hot-Lock Extreme High Temperature Threadlocker, Translucent : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XW2ZTZL?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=imddd-20&linkId=9bdd4f66aef247ad04a7342fce510a01&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
Bosch Tap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRSK13S?tag=ihco-20
Socket Tap Extension: https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Drive-Adjustable-Socket-Set-2pack/dp/B00SWH3O24?tag=ihco-20
So I finally got the 470 code free. I was getting the P1613 code after installing the Hewitt Tech 3-valve module. This is related to a faulty pressure sensor.
Hewitt has a solution for this too.
Bypass Kit Addon: Pressure Sensor Replacement Wired | Hewitt Tech
Cure Pressure Sensor damage without removing the intake. A factory Pressure Sensor with a pigtail connector. Best suited replacing a faulty pressure sensor on the 4.7L vehicles with only one pressure sensor. Only Compatible with Gen 1 and Gen 2 (3 Valve) bypass kits only.
hewitt-tech.com
It requires soldering in their sensor and snipping a wire to the factory sensor.
After installing this, the system popped a P2445 and P1613 codes. I cleared them. These may have been residual codes as they came back as "Pending" but went away after a few more drive cycles. I did disconnect the battery for soldering the pressure switch in but used a 9v battery car memory saver in the cig lighter to keep from having to reset all of my radio presets. This may have allowed the car ECU memory to keep the old codes. Bottom line don't use one of these when you install their Gen2 3 valve and or pressure switch emulator.
I have now been code free for two weeks and passed a 2nd OBDII state inspection.
@2001LC solution to re-locate the SAI is prob the key to longevity of the pump, and obviously the key to easy maintenance and filter exchange.
We also have a GX460 in the garage. The GX460 has the SAI pump mounted just behind the passenger side headlamp. Super easy to get to and inspect. I would check the plumbing connectors and hoses for the GX and see how you can use some of those components to relocate the pump on the 06/07 models. As a point of reference on Toyota's acknowledgement of the issue: Ive read discussion of there bing a TSB (Lexus) on the GX460 due to the filter, and the remedy is an extension of warranty to this component to 10yrs. So they know about it, but good luck getting support on the 100 series 15year old+ , long out of warranty vehicle.
I like the idea of block off plates for SAI- and removing the system all together. IMO SAI provides minimal benefit compared to the cost of its failure. The challenge with the by-pass kits is that they are far from being trouble free, and I dont like the idea of cutting and soldering wires as part of an under the hood install, combined with electronics that don't work flawlessly (with out the concern of rounds of emails and calls to the seller for tech support)
We also have a GX460 in the garage. The GX460 has the SAI pump mounted just behind the passenger side headlamp. Super easy to get to and inspect. I would check the plumbing connectors and hoses for the GX and see how you can use some of those components to relocate the pump on the 06/07 models. As a point of reference on Toyota's acknowledgement of the issue: Ive read discussion of there bing a TSB (Lexus) on the GX460 due to the filter, and the remedy is an extension of warranty to this component to 10yrs. So they know about it, but good luck getting support on the 100 series 15year old+ , long out of warranty vehicle.
I like the idea of block off plates for SAI- and removing the system all together. IMO SAI provides minimal benefit compared to the cost of its failure. The challenge with the by-pass kits is that they are far from being trouble free, and I dont like the idea of cutting and soldering wires as part of an under the hood install, combined with electronics that don't work flawlessly (with out the concern of rounds of emails and calls to the seller for tech support)
No issues still holding strong!
Hello all. This is my first post so don't break out the flame throwers just yet. I wanted to report back on my own repair of a new to me 06GX470 that had the SAIS trouble codes.
I researched online and opted for the Hewitt-Tech Gen2 3 valve kit. I will be providing them with my feedback after installing the kit earlier this week. Codes are cleared but I have 0 miles on the repair.
The wiring side went perfectly smoothly. I may tweak the routing of the wire under the hood and may replace the split loom with a braided sleeve but otherwise, it went fine. I had a friend help with the soldering connections into the ECM harness and he actually handled most of the install.
The only problem we ran into was our own fault. We didn't spray down the DS fitting before we tried breaking the nuts loose to install the block off plates and broke both of those little bolts off. There is no room to get a drill in to drill out the broken bolts, there is not enough room to get a Vice grip in to try to extract the bolts, MAYBE could get a reverse threaded bolt / nut extractor in but we opted for a threaded plug into the end of the air injection tube.
We pushed the tube end that runs up to the valve out of the way enough to put a pipe tap into the end of the air injection tube and tried tapping it. I found a large standard thread bolt and slathered it with JB Weld and screwed it in until it bottomed out. My friend wondered if maybe the bolt we used was forcing threaded into the thin metal of the air injection tube - he thought he could tell that the pipe was bulging ever so slightly. It may not have even been necessary to tap the threads in; we maybe could have gotten by with threading the bolt in. I didn't have a selection of pipe plugs in standard and metric to try so we just used a bolt big enough to fill the hole.
While we were pondering how to plug or cap the air injection tube hole we fished a bore scope into the end and by golly it looked like it was threaded from the factory. We couldn't be sure but it made me wonder if the factory had used these manifolds on rigs that didn't have the SAIS system and maybe built those rigs with plugs in the tubes. I've seen this done on certain Fords.
Does anyone have a loose SAIS manifold laying around that they could experiment on? We tapped it for a standard thread and used a large standard thread bolt but obviously it's probably a metric. Check and see if the injection tube inlet end is threaded internally and what size threads. This might be an even cleaner block off option than using plates...although obviously using the plates is more stealthy if that was a concern for someone.
For the PS, I sprayed with PB Blaster and left it overnight. Those nuts came lose just fine and i installed the plate per the directions from Hewitt-Tech.
Thanks for the awesome forum and I'm looking forward to learning and contributing.
Nate
I researched online and opted for the Hewitt-Tech Gen2 3 valve kit. I will be providing them with my feedback after installing the kit earlier this week. Codes are cleared but I have 0 miles on the repair.
The wiring side went perfectly smoothly. I may tweak the routing of the wire under the hood and may replace the split loom with a braided sleeve but otherwise, it went fine. I had a friend help with the soldering connections into the ECM harness and he actually handled most of the install.
The only problem we ran into was our own fault. We didn't spray down the DS fitting before we tried breaking the nuts loose to install the block off plates and broke both of those little bolts off. There is no room to get a drill in to drill out the broken bolts, there is not enough room to get a Vice grip in to try to extract the bolts, MAYBE could get a reverse threaded bolt / nut extractor in but we opted for a threaded plug into the end of the air injection tube.
We pushed the tube end that runs up to the valve out of the way enough to put a pipe tap into the end of the air injection tube and tried tapping it. I found a large standard thread bolt and slathered it with JB Weld and screwed it in until it bottomed out. My friend wondered if maybe the bolt we used was forcing threaded into the thin metal of the air injection tube - he thought he could tell that the pipe was bulging ever so slightly. It may not have even been necessary to tap the threads in; we maybe could have gotten by with threading the bolt in. I didn't have a selection of pipe plugs in standard and metric to try so we just used a bolt big enough to fill the hole.
While we were pondering how to plug or cap the air injection tube hole we fished a bore scope into the end and by golly it looked like it was threaded from the factory. We couldn't be sure but it made me wonder if the factory had used these manifolds on rigs that didn't have the SAIS system and maybe built those rigs with plugs in the tubes. I've seen this done on certain Fords.
Does anyone have a loose SAIS manifold laying around that they could experiment on? We tapped it for a standard thread and used a large standard thread bolt but obviously it's probably a metric. Check and see if the injection tube inlet end is threaded internally and what size threads. This might be an even cleaner block off option than using plates...although obviously using the plates is more stealthy if that was a concern for someone.
For the PS, I sprayed with PB Blaster and left it overnight. Those nuts came lose just fine and i installed the plate per the directions from Hewitt-Tech.
Thanks for the awesome forum and I'm looking forward to learning and contributing.
Nate
Wrong forum
Relevancy as I see it- kept to the performance of the kit you bought- if it worked with out any issues- and how the vendor support was might help 100series owners make the decision to proceed with that product cross platform
Good luck solving your challenge
Last night I finished up installing the hewitt tech bypass kit. The electronics side of things was easy-peasy. Despite my best efforts, both of the bolts snapped off of the passenger side tube flange while trying to install the block-off plates. Neither of the driver's side bolts broke. I used a 1/4" beam clamp from Menards... we'll see how that goes. I don't see another option at the moment.
In hindsight I would have bought an Induction heater tool (cheap version of Bolt Buster) to heat the nuts up before attempting it. I should just buy one so that I have one on hand for stuff like this instead of just attempting because I don't have the tool.
I drove the LX for a little while this morning and so far no limp mode and no CEL.
In hindsight I would have bought an Induction heater tool (cheap version of Bolt Buster) to heat the nuts up before attempting it. I should just buy one so that I have one on hand for stuff like this instead of just attempting because I don't have the tool.
I drove the LX for a little while this morning and so far no limp mode and no CEL.
Hey guys. I am looking for any updates on anyone who had done the Hewitt Tech Bypass for the SAI system on the 100 series.
I just bought an 06' LX 470 and after a couple of weeks I got stuck in limp mode with a P2440 Code. I am going to check the Pump and the Valves.
I am hoping to not have to replace them though. Has anyone had any negatives come from the Bypass after a few years?
I just bought an 06' LX 470 and after a couple of weeks I got stuck in limp mode with a P2440 Code. I am going to check the Pump and the Valves.
I am hoping to not have to replace them though. Has anyone had any negatives come from the Bypass after a few years?
I have the 3-valve HT bypass module on my 2007LX
I was getting several codes with the first two units. Their customer service was great and they sent me replacements as they were still tweaking their program. I am now on my 3rd unit, and only get a P1613 occasionally now.
For all the time involved it probably would have been easier to just replace the SAI pump though.
I was getting several codes with the first two units. Their customer service was great and they sent me replacements as they were still tweaking their program. I am now on my 3rd unit, and only get a P1613 occasionally now.
For all the time involved it probably would have been easier to just replace the SAI pump though.
Last edited:
They have several offerings for the bypass kit. I've run the basic bypass on 2 2uz vvti motors. Ran the basic one on my 4runner v8 for over a decade. It would throw a code maybe twice each winter which I'd clear and then move on. Never a major issue.
Running a basic bypass on my 2007 cruiser and no issues at all for past few years (prior owner installed it). I have a kit sitting here for my 2006 cruiser but the secondary air system is still working OK for now. Gonna check the foam filter on the pump soon though.
Running a basic bypass on my 2007 cruiser and no issues at all for past few years (prior owner installed it). I have a kit sitting here for my 2006 cruiser but the secondary air system is still working OK for now. Gonna check the foam filter on the pump soon though.
Mine is 5 years old and still works, no errors whatsoever. 06LX as well.
If you DIY and want to stay street legal. You can modify the S.A.I. system, keeping fully functional:
It is simply, the filter that fails with time.
forum.ih8mud.com
It is simply, the filter that fails with time.
S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!
We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...
forum.ih8mud.com