06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (4 Viewers)

[Smobien]

@smitty071 interesting. I failed to see the earlier post about wiring before making mine. I don't want to spread misinformation. Maybe @hewitttech can chime in and put us on the right path.

You might be right. I bet it doesn't matter. I didn't know if the bypass module was meant to be powered all the time while the car was running. The instructions made it sound like the intended function was just on crank.

 

[smitty071]

06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass

A few pages back someone asked if eliminating the air induction pump would make it difficult to pass SMOG in CA. Any thoughts on that? Has anyone done this in CA and still passed SMOG? thanks...

forum.ih8mud.com

That link is where Hewitt Tech confirmed 9 o clock was the correct spot.

Below is a write up from Hewitt Tech on the starter relay


“Our bypass modules are triggered whenever the ignition is first turned on and then again whenever it senses 5-12V on the starter relay input wire. On our units with the starter relay wire connected you can start the vehicle at any time from the on position since the starter relay wire will re-trigger the module to prevent the system whenever you turn the key to start.

We used to say the starter relay wire was optional but when we first designed the unit it had a 5 second time out so it gave you more time to start the engine. That timeout period is now just a fraction of a second so it is important to either install the starter relay wire correctly or make sure you always start directly from the off position so the module is active.
If you Do Not connect the starter relay wire to the bypass module you would need to start the engine directly from the Off position or the module may time out before the engine starts. Without the starter relay wire connected if you wait in the ON position for longer than a fraction of a second before starting you would need to cycle the key off first and then start from the off position to ensure the module is triggered by ignition on for starting.

It is better just to install the starter relay wire and not worry about any of the key off-on-start timing. Install the starter relay wire and forget completely about it. You can sit with the key on all day long and play with the radio or roll your windows up without worrying about it, just operate it like normal.”


The write up makes me think 9 o clock is correct because as soon as your turn the key without cranking (radio on, roll windows down, etc.) it will activate bypass without having to crank.

Like I said before tho, it may not matter which spot between the 9 o clock and 12 o clock from your diagram, but would be nice to hear confirmation from someone who knows for sure.

 

[khans]

Hello All,

2006 LC owner here with a Check Engine Light which the stealership has diagnosed as a "Secondary Air Pump and Switching Valve" failure that they want to charge a cool $2623,73 + tax to fix. Car is driving fine and no limp noodle yet .

This started happening after a ski trip where the car was outside parked in freezing temperatures.

Read through the thread (thank you everybody) and checked out the Hewitt Technologies website.

A few questions:

- do the bypass now or wait?
- Gen I or Gen II?

I'm going to attached an ODBII and pull the exact codes but any feedback in the mean time would be much appreciated.

thanks!

 

[jerryb]

only worse things happen when you wait. Any version is good.

 

[Smobien]

Hello All,

2006 LC owner here with a Check Engine Light which the stealership has diagnosed as a "Secondary Air Pump and Switching Valve" failure that they want to charge a cool $2623,73 + tax to fix. Car is driving fine and no limp noodle yet .

This started happening after a ski trip where the car was outside parked in freezing temperatures.

Read through the thread (thank you everybody) and checked out the Hewitt Technologies website.

A few questions:

- do the bypass now or wait?
- Gen I or Gen II?

I'm going to attached an ODBII and pull the exact codes but any feedback in the mean time would be much appreciated.

thanks!

I had to bypass for emissions. Also it was winter and I didn't want the traction control non-functional.

I got this kit. 2005 - 2007 Plug & Play SAIS Bypass Kit - https://hewitt-tech.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=12

 

[jtb517]

What version is everyone running? Would like gen 2, but tapping ecm wires makes me a little nervous. I’m starting to get an occasional squeak on cold start at around 177k.

I’d honestly rather take the time to remove the intake manifold if it were plug and play.

 

[jerryb]

I'm installing the gen II in a few weeks. I planed on posting detailed instructions. I have a feeling it's not going to be as easy as they say.
I don't mind Tee ing off a few ecu wires. Rather that than a wire strung across the back wrapped around a starter relay pole which I've had for years on the first gen version. I'm anxious to take apart on of those flapper valves and see just how flimsy they are- the twin valves above the starter.

 

[94SRUNNER]

I'm installing the gen II in a few weeks. I planed on posting detailed instructions. I have a feeling it's not going to be as easy as they say.
I don't mind Tee ing off a few ecu wires. Rather that than a wire strung across the back wrapped around a starter relay pole which I've had for years on the first gen version. I'm anxious to take apart on of those flapper valves and see just how flimsy they are- the twin valves above the starter.

I have the full delete kit sitting on the workbench. Its been too cold to deal with it and my whine at start up is very minor with no codes. That said, I have reviewed the instructions numerous times and spoken with Hewitt on the phone. The install doesn't appear all to difficult, it is dealing with the bolts for the block off plates that I am slightly concerned about. Time for PB blaster.

 

[jerryb]

I'm welding the ports shut on the exhaust manifolds, well one is already done and installed. the other one is next.
The engine will be out for all that and the gen II bypass

also. if you want clean new studs for those air trains I have them. Getting them off while the manifolds are still installed could be problematic.

 

[hewitttech]

I'm installing the gen II in a few weeks. I planed on posting detailed instructions. I have a feeling it's not going to be as easy as they say.
I don't mind Tee ing off a few ecu wires. Rather that than a wire strung across the back wrapped around a starter relay pole which I've had for years on the first gen version. I'm anxious to take apart on of those flapper valves and see just how flimsy they are- the twin valves above the starter.

You mean like these: Gen2-3V Installation on my personal 05 GX470 ?

 

[jerryb]

Yes those, thank you.
Also details about the valves over the starter and removal of everything under the intake, any ports that need to be addressed or wiring- connector removal., air tube removal...
re routing vacuum ports, plugging some.

 

[hewitttech]

Yes those, thank you.
Also details about the valves over the starter and removal of everything under the intake, any ports that need to be addressed or wiring- connector removal., air tube removal...
re routing vacuum ports, plugging some.

I am pretty sure I covered this in an earlier post but here it is again. Just so everyone knows what we are talking about and doesn't confuse this with other GenII kit installs, this is specific to the 4.7L vehicles that have all of the secondary air components located underneath the intake manifold. This would be: one air pump, an electric air switching valve (EASV), the system's pressure sensor (bolted to the EASV w/ a separate connector) and the two No.2 vacuum actuated air switching valves at the rear. This is why we call it the 3-Valve system and have a specific Gen-II kit for it. For the normal Gen2 installation, everything would just remain in place and there is no reason to remove the intake manifold for any of our installations.

What we are discussing here goes well above the normal installation of the Gen2-3V. WIth the Gen2-3V installation, If you are pulling the intake manifold for any reason you can remove all of the secondary air system components form the vehicle with the exception of the pressure sensor.
You can remove the air pump, the EASV and the two No.2 air switching valves at the back of the intake as well as all of the air hoses and tubes. You can also remove the remove the two vacuum switching valves (VSV) on the top passenger side of the intake manifold. The only thing other than the air tubes on the exhaust manifold that need to be blocked off to do this would be the vacuum lines that supply the VSVs if you decide to remove also.
The connectors for the air pump (2 pin conector) and the EASV (2 pin connector) will remain disconnected and there is no need to cap them off as they are disconnected or capped off at the Gen2 module location itself.Here is where the pressure sensor needs special consideration. The pressure sensor is bolted to the EASV but must remain connected to the factory harness (3 pin connector). However, the pressure sensor inlet nipple must remain open to the atmosphere and without the EASV may expose it to water and contamination, think water crossings and dust/bugs mostly.

Now, we can make (and offered in the past) a plug and play version of the Gen2-3V which does require removal of the intake manifold to install. However, we do not recommend it for the simple reason that if you needed to access the connections again for whatever reason you have to remove the intake again. In this case, removing the glove box to get to the ECM is WAY easier, I also may be one of the few who carries electrical repair stuff with me like a solder torch, various pieces of wire and a handful of different connectors when I am off the beaten path. If you are going through all the trouble to remove all of the components I would partly recommend relocating the pressure sensor to the nice and cozy protected area at the ECM. To do this you would just wire it in (in parallel) with the three Gen2-3V pressure sensor wires at the ECM, we have a pigtail connector available for this. To prevent problems with the pressure sensor signal wire that still goes out to the connector underneath the intake you will cut the signal wire loose at the ECM so the signal wire from the ECM only connects to the Gen2 and pressure sensor pigtal wire. So for the pressure sensor signal wire you will have three wire ends that splice together but for the power and ground you would still have the factory wires in tact but with the pressure sensor and Gen2 wires spliced in. With the exception of adding the pressure sensor pigtail at the ECM, DO NOT CUT ANY OF THE FACTORY WIRES TO MAKE THE TAP CONNECTIONS, solder splice the new wires INTO the factory wires. We have a pigtail available for this and you just unplug the sensor from the factory harness and plug it into the wired pigtail at the ECM and secure with zipties.

 

[jerryb]

Thanks for writing that.

 

[2001LC]

Please help me!

I am super interested in condition of air filter within the A.I pump.

Please, anyone removing intake manifold. Please please take a picture inside the 1" Air Inlet Port on A.I.pump, of the Filter and post here?. THX!

 

[2001LC]

TIP: For anyone removing intake manifold.

Clean the top of the engine the very best you, after removing engine cover. The area between intake manifold & each head, needs to be free of contaminants (dirt, grim, sand, dust, etc). Otherwise the contaminants will fall into intake ports of the heads. This will damage cylinder walls, and may damage rings and valve seats also. This can result in loss of some or all compression in some or all cylinders.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Well after having the Gen-II SAIS Bypass Kit sitting on my work bench for the better part of 6 months, I got it installed. It was nerve racking splicing in the the wiring into the engine wiring harness, but everything went together well. Thanks @hewitttech for the great kit with fairly straight forward instructions!

 

[Smitty4699]

what side is valve 2 bank 1?

 

[2001LC]

Diver side is BK 1. Passenger is BK 2. Valves 2, are the two in back of intake manifold on water bypass joint rear.

 

[Smitty4699]

Diver side is BK 1. Passenger is BK 2. Valves 2, are the two in back of intake manifold on water bypass joint rea

Diver side is BK 1. Passenger is BK 2. Valves 2, are the two in back of intake manifold on water bypass joint rear.

View attachment 2643196

they are different part #'s. I need the driver side one. I guess thats #2?

 

[2001LC]

BK 1 is driver side yes. P1442 is a bk 1 code. which is the PN# 25720-50020 VALVE ASSY, AIR SWITCHING, NO.2. But run through the diagnostics before just replacing the SW. Also checking to see if a P1445 is pending or current. If so, you've more going on than failed SW's. Keep driving and checking codes, for now.

Don't forget the gaskets if you replace.

Any other codes now or in the past?