06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Keep it on hand as a backup but I am pretty confident you can circular file it.
Thank you very much for that.
I'll get one soon.
Any advice with what to do with the older wired bypass kit? Sell it somewhere? Any turn in credit or something?
 
As I'm digging in to this I have another question.

On the block off plates on a stock manifold.
I realize welding them (manifold side) closed is an easy option, but not in place.
I realize using your plates as a block off without the upper tube attached might make a good seal, except it has pass through slots and it's pretty slim.
There isn't a compatible size air injection, or egr plate out there that I can find. Everything out there is slightly bigger, but does have the same general shape.
Would it be possible for you guys to make a steel or aluminum end to cover the stock hole. I was going to make some today, but also order some BMW or VAG group oversized and re drill. Probably both. ($15)
But if you made them I'd buy from you if under 30$

sai flange trace exh side.jpg
 
As I'm digging in to this I have another question.

On the block off plates on a stock manifold.
I realize welding them (manifold side) closed is an easy option, but not in place.
I realize using your plates as a block off without the upper tube attached might make a good seal, except it has pass through slots and it's pretty slim.
There isn't a compatible size air injection, or egr plate out there that I can find. Everything out there is slightly bigger, but does have the same general shape.
Would it be possible for you guys to make a steel or aluminum end to cover the stock hole. I was going to make some today, but also order some BMW or VAG group oversized and re drill. Probably both. ($15)
But if you made them I'd buy from you if under 30$

View attachment 2303681
Anything is possible. We can have our machinist, that used to make them for us, water-jet them out of whatever thickness and material you want. However, for a one off set they won't be anywhere near your price-point. Honestly though, just bolt the plate on the end of the tube with the gasket between them and use some stainless washers if you think it needs them. The plates are 16 gauge 304 stainless which is much stronger than mild steel or aluminum, especially in the high temp range. The plate also cover the entire surface area between the bolt slots so I guess I don't really see what problem you are trying to address. These aren't top fuel dragster, they aren't going to blow off or anything like that. Besides, the reason aluminum and steel EGR plates are much thicker isn't for strength, they are thicker because aluminum and steel will burn and corrode through. Where these plates install exhaust gases don't even strike it directly like they do in an EGR. I have seen our plates after being in service for 8 years and other than exhaust staining, the surface is as good as new.
 
thank you.
No problem I was addressing. Just a better looking option, and I didn't know if they would hold air on their own with the gasket. That isn't a place I want to mess with more than twice.
 
Dumb question...how long can one reasonably expect to drive on codes P1441/1444?

Story goes, I started the truck up yesterday to take my kids to school and heard an unfamiliar noise...it stopped once the ECT reached ~100* and the truck ran fine, with no codes. Didn't think much of it until this morning and I started it up to see if it would repeat the noise and within 15-20 seconds the codes came up. Truck seemed to idle fine, but I did'nt drive it.

Plan on ordering the full by-pass kit from @hewitttech today.
 
Full by-pass kit ordered this afternoon. I opted not to go for the 100% plug-n'play kit as I am not in the mode to remove the intake manifold.

I spoke at length with @hewitttech regarding the kit and some of instillation procedure and they were extremely helpful.
 
Kit arrived Friday...spending the next few days/drive cycles allowing penetrating oil to work on the bolts where theblock off plates are installed. I am going to install new bolts, can anyone confirm the part number? I have 90178-A0023 (X4).

Thanks
 
those are the nuts. I don't know the stud #s. they come with a new exhaust manifold that's why they are hard to find.

I just looked and I can't find them quickly.
I have extras if you want though. Really it's just an M6 stud with a torx drive top end. If you don't see any rust on them you shouldn't have an issue. DOn't loose or sweep up the stock gasket if you separate it from the car.
you could make one with a bolt from HD, or you could screw in a actual bolt from the backside.

really, you shouldn't have to do much but a few turns on the nuts and slip the plates in from the top.
 
Last edited:
Seeking the wisdom of the SAIS guru's.

I've got a failing air pump, per my post in mid-August. I purchased the Hewitt by-pass kit (@hewitttech) that I have not yet installed as the kit as the pump stopped after the truck gets up to approximately 100* ECT. Its only given me codes once, which I cleared and they have not returned. In the last couple days I have notice a new very subtle tick that goes up and down with engine load. At idle there is no noise and with the windows open I dont hear it. Wondering if one of the SAIS valves being stuck open would cause this audible noise? The truck is running very well, idling smooth and has no loss of power. I have also taken the time to check for other vacuum leaks in the various systems associated with the engine and have found none. The only recent work, was that I replaced the spark plugs a few days prior to this, which I do not think would cause this, but I do plan to go through them all to make sure I torqued them all down properly. That said I have no CEL and the truck is otherwise running very smooth.

Anyone have any thoughts?
 
Seeking the wisdom of the SAIS guru's.

I've got a failing air pump, per my post in mid-August. I purchased the Hewitt by-pass kit (@hewitttech) that I have not yet installed as the kit as the pump stopped after the truck gets up to approximately 100* ECT. Its only given me codes once, which I cleared and they have not returned. In the last couple days I have notice a new very subtle tick that goes up and down with engine load. At idle there is no noise and with the windows open I dont hear it. Wondering if one of the SAIS valves being stuck open would cause this audible noise? The truck is running very well, idling smooth and has no loss of power. I have also taken the time to check for other vacuum leaks in the various systems associated with the engine and have found none. The only recent work, was that I replaced the spark plugs a few days prior to this, which I do not think would cause this, but I do plan to go through them all to make sure I torqued them all down properly. That said I have no CEL and the truck is otherwise running very smooth.

Anyone have any thoughts?
If the tick is changing with engine speed and you have no codes it is not going to be a valve stuck open. Most likely it is going to be something like an exhaust leak or something else mechanical that moves.
Why are you waiting to install the bypass kit though? If you know your air pump is failing and making noise it is best to get it installed now before the air pump motor burns out on you. Once you get to that point and get a P0418 code you will need to add a Pump Proxy Pack a Gen-I kit or upgrade to a Gen-II kit to take care of it.
 
If the tick is changing with engine speed and you have no codes it is not going to be a valve stuck open and is most likely likely something like an exhaust leak or something else mechanical that moves.
Why are you waiting to install the bypass kit though? If you know your air pump is failing and making noise it is best to get it installed now before the air pump motor burns out on you. Once you get to that point and get a P0418 code you will need to add a Pump Proxy Pack a Gen-I kit or upgrade to a Gen-II kit to take care of it.

Thanks for the follow up. I now plan to install today. No reason for the delay other than just putting it off.
 
My code came back today, it was gone for the whole summer and now when it's colder, light came back on. Will order kit today, are there any coupon codes for Mud members? I only see one kit available for my 2007 LX


correct?
 
My code came back today, it was gone for the whole summer and now when it's colder, light came back on. Will order kit today, are there any coupon codes for Mud members? I only see one kit available for my 2007 LX


correct?
All the kits have been on sale since the beginning of all this mess so no further discounts at this time. We may be doing a little deeper sale on the V36H kits next month for a fall but have not made the final decision on this.
 
I have a 2006 LX470 that needs new manifolds.

I was wondering if running the full SAI delete kit w/ blockoff plates would allow me to run the 98-05 Doug Thorley headers?

98-05 headers:

1603923315462.png


06/07 headers

1603923332867.png
 
not unless you weld up the engine side sai holes. I don't even thing you could cut off the mounting flange plates from a your old units and transfer it/them over to the non sai manifold thorleys, being as their different brands. The risk in trying that might not be worth it.
There's a thread with pictures somewhere.

I went with oem for that reason. But I did have the ports on the flange welded shut. That was in prep for the full delete and for the fact it's such a pain in the ass to get a good seal on the Aluminum down pipes from the sai valves. UNtil those are deleted there's pressure there.
I spent DT header money on other exhaust related things.
 
VVT heads & Exhaust manifold.

Note the smaller exhaust port above the larger. A.I. pumps air through those smaller holes, into exhaust manifold and on through CAT(S). Those smaller ports are not in non VVT head or exhaust manifold. So pre 06 (VVT) exhaust manifold would not cover the small exhaust ports/holes. You'd then have massive exhaust leak.

:ban:To block off the A.I systems is only allowed in off road sports vehicle.

The AI simply pumps air into CAT first ~90 seconds of start up. This simply speaking, heats CATs faster. The purpose is to reduce pollution. Very likely China, India, Russia and many third world country do not require them.
061.JPG

Exhaust manifold install (4).JPG
Exhaust manifold install (3).JPG


In a well tuned VVT. We smell much less gasoline smell, then non VVT.
 
fixed

The A.I system does nothing simply.

should have said, they do something for sure, but they don't do any of it simply.
 
Last edited:
I have a 2006 LX470 that needs new manifolds.

I was wondering if running the full SAI delete kit w/ blockoff plates would allow me to run the 98-05 Doug Thorley headers?

98-05 headers:

View attachment 2479864

06/07 headers

View attachment 2479865
What others have said. You can run the full delete and use the older, less expensive headers but you have to block the air injection ports on the cylinder heads. Keith Carty that does the BAMufflers can make you a header "spacer" plate that blocks them off. But honestly, just install the headers with the air tubes and install our block off plates on them like normal. This is what I did when I did the DT Long tubes headers on my GX470.
 
we just want a cheaper solution. I did not know someone made a spacer though. that's awesome.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom