06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (1 Viewer)

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@niche i think this is the one
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but let’s wait for @hewitttech to confirm I’m also interested with this one as well.
 
That day has finally come for an 06 owner like me:
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It was 29°F this morning and about 300 meters from the house CEL lit up and pulled this DTC. It didn’t go on limp mode, all functions are good and was able to do a 5-mile round trip to my daughter’s school and back home again.
 
That day has finally come for an 06 owner like me:
View attachment 2181954
It was 29°F this morning and about 300 meters from the house CEL lit up and pulled this DTC. It didn’t go on limp mode, all functions are good and was able to do a 5-mile round trip to my daughter’s school and back home again.


Do the bypass. I just did and truck has no lights and running great!
 
Sorry, Still having issues getting notifications from the different forums. Currently you will still be using our V36H kit with any needed kit addons for your LC, GX and LX with the 4.7L engine. V36H P&P SAIS Bypass Kit for 05-06
I am currently still working on the GenII kit development for these vehicles. Unfortunately, I am currently at a stand until I can solve my canbus problem with the ABS/Skid ECM on my 05 GX470. I may have damaged it in my last deep water crossing and I can't read engine parameter to finish verifying my final firmware code until I get that fixed.
 
Sorry, Still having issues getting notifications from the different forums. Currently you will still be using our V36H kit with any needed kit addons for your LC, GX and LX with the 4.7L engine. V36H P&P SAIS Bypass Kit for 05-06
I am currently still working on the GenII kit development for these vehicles. Unfortunately, I am currently at a stand until I can solve my canbus problem with the ABS/Skid ECM on my 05 GX470. I may have damaged it in my last deep water crossing and I can't read engine parameter to finish verifying my final firmware code until I get that fixed.

Thanks for the update. Sorry to hear about the damage to the ECM. Hopefully it doesn't slow you down to much longer.
 
@hewitttech on the the bypass kit I’m curious what’s the electrical wire for the relay is and what it does? A friend of mine who owns a GX and I just discovered recently when we had a chat he used a different bypass kit (I just forgot the name) and his doesn’t have that wire. Thanks.
 
@hewitttech on the the bypass kit I’m curious what’s the electrical wire for the relay is and what it does? A friend of mine who owns a GX and I just discovered recently when we had a chat he used a different bypass kit (I just forgot the name) and his doesn’t have that wire. Thanks.

The starter relay sense wire is an original design element. It makes sure that no matter how long you wait to start the vehicle after turning the ignition to the on position that the module is properly triggered whenever you start the vehicle. With the wire connected you never have to worry about special triggering requirements and can operate the vehicle exactly like you would normally. The unit you are referring to is just a very poorly designed made in china knockoff of one of our original designs. It is active for 10 seconds at ignition on and will time out after that. Holding the intake temperature low for that long of a period is not good at engine start. We sell a lot of units to people that unfortunately buy that unit first. Our units are specifically engineered to survive for the life of the vehicle in the underhood environment and because of that we cover them with a limited lifetime warranty. I use all automotive qualified electronic components and OEM grade connectors and wiring. The enclosures are fireproof and not cheap plastic. If I showed you all of the differences you would probably laugh. While we probably do not advertise it enough we manufacture everything 100% in house in SC. While the other claims to be made in the US I have proof that they are not. Sorry, it still gets me riled up that someone completely ripped me off, originally straight up copied all of my instructions and even product listings and is still around peddling junk like they are the same as our products.
 
Thanks @hewitttech I got confused at first at thought he used what I thought (your brand) and he mentioned another which I forgot. Anyway, I found a spare secondary air injection off a 2013 parted-out Tundra, is it the same as for a 2006 LX470?
 
Thanks @hewitttech I got confused at first at thought he used what I thought (your brand) and he mentioned another which I forgot. Anyway, I found a spare secondary air injection off a 2013 parted-out Tundra, is it the same as for a 2006 LX470?
No, that system is considerably different from yours and the parts dont swap.
 
I'm getting ready to order and install this bypass, so bored of this stay at home order from the governor. Question, if you had a code for valves being stuck closed, does that mean you can just install the kit without adding the blockoff plates? Since it's already stuck closed, or is that a different part?
 
I'm getting ready to order and install this bypass, so bored of this stay at home order from the governor. Question, if you had a code for valves being stuck closed, does that mean you can just install the kit without adding the blockoff plates? Since it's already stuck closed, or is that a different part?

They always recommend you install the plates. They are fairly responsive via their contact form if you want to ask them directly.

I think there's always that small risk that the valves open, or the sensor failed and they aren't really stuck closed.
 
I'm getting ready to order and install this bypass, so bored of this stay at home order from the governor. Question, if you had a code for valves being stuck closed, does that mean you can just install the kit without adding the blockoff plates? Since it's already stuck closed, or is that a different part?

Sorry for the slow response. Your post notice got buried in my inbox last week.

With the valve stuck closed codes you can likely get by without them for a little while but even though the system will not be operating the valves can still leak later on. It happens more often than you would think so the block off plates are the only thing preventing the valves from leaking in the future and causing the valve stuck open codes and limp mode as a result. If you don't get them installed initially with the module make sure you put them in your glovebox with the instructions so you know where they are when you need them later on. If you go into limp mode because valve stuck open codes later on you will have to get them installed at that point and clear the codes again. It is better just to install them and not worry about it.

If anyone has any questions you can also give us a call toll free 844-307-7671 or email support@hewitt-tech.com
 
@hewitttech any developments on the full delete kit that was mentioned somewhere along the way in the this thread?

Is this the solution that will allow a full delete of the components except for that is called out as needing to be retained?
 
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@hewitttech any developments on the full delete kit that was mentioned somewhere along the way in the this thread?

Is this the solution that will allow a full delete of the components except for that is called out as needing to be retained?
Yes! The GenII "full delete" kits are available.
 
I think it's great that you lowered the price of the old style units.
this 140 $ solution is good for all these LC and LX 4.7 people.

and for the full delete.
I got a not found on clicking the instructions for gen 2 for tundra and just a page refresh when you click on landcruiser.
look at the 4.6 tundra sequoia gen II instructions.


can you verify that we can/could remove everything in red?
also I'm not seeing, or understanding the pressure sensor option as it relates to the 4.7. DO we not need one, or do we. Or do we need two?

I'd like to remove both number 2 air switching valves, both their downpipes to the exhaust manifold, The two vacuum switching valves on the passenger side fuel rail, the air pump assembly and mount, and the main air switching valve right next to it under the intake.

The pressure sensor on the main air switching valve, I assume that's the one that has to stay somewhere connected to one of your harness connectors? maybe moved out to the drivers side fuel rail?

Is the 400$ option whats needed to accomplish this? or would one or two pressure sensor replacements be needed @ 200$ each.
I'd only think one, if someone's was damaged where it's connected to the main air switching valve?

there aren't pressure sensors in the vacuum switching valves, are there?

thanks for the hard work and info.
I totally understand if you just say, wait, we're not finished yet. I know this isn't easy stuff to deal with.


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8942171010 toyota map sensor, pressure sensor on main switching valve
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I think it's great that you lowered the price of the old style units.
this 140 $ solution is good for all these LC and LX 4.7 people.

and for the full delete.
I got a not found on clicking the instructions for gen 2 for tundra and just a page refresh when you click on landcruiser.
look at the 4.6 tundra sequoia gen II instructions.

The configuration is a bit different on the older 4.7L vehicles and is a 3 valve system. The 4.7L vehicles that have this configuration are 05-06 Tundra, 05-07 Sequoia, ALL GX470, LX470, and LC(470) and 4R. It is a slightly more complicated system than say the current configuration that is used on say the 4.6L.
Because the 3 valve vehicles have the system completely under the intake manifold the Gen-II kits for them are not completely plug and play. Without pullin gthe intake manifold there is no way to easily connect to the pressure sensor (circled in red) other than to make the three wire connections at the ECM. The connections are simple and while I do not have the complete installation instructions finished yet it does come with instructions for the wired connection.
In fact this is the only reason the Gen-II units for the 3 valve system show as Pre-order but we have sold at least 20-30 already and we can easily walk through the installation with you until those are finished (hopefully this week).



can you verify that we can/could remove everything in red?
also I'm not seeing, or understanding the pressure sensor option as it relates to the 4.7. DO we not need one, or do we. Or do we need two?
You can remove everything secondary air related with the exception of the pressure sensor (circled in red) when using the Gen-II kits, not the older Gen-I style kits. You also would typically just leave everything in place since you have to remove the manifold to remove any part of the system. The 3 valve system only has one pressure sensors. The vehicle still uses this sensor regardless of the bypass kits. You only need one good one and it is fairly rare for a pressure sensor in a 3 valve system to get damaged. The options for dealing with a damaged sensor on the 3 valve system is to pull the intake manifold and replace the sensor directly or just do it at the ECM by cutting the one sensor voltage wire loose from the old sensor and adding a new sensor with a pigtail directly at the ECM.


I'd like to remove both number 2 air switching valves, both their downpipes to the exhaust manifold, The two vacuum switching valves on the passenger side fuel rail, the air pump assembly and mount, and the main air switching valve right next to it under the intake.
All of those things can be removed with the Gen-II kit again with the exception of the pressure sensor that is mounted on the main air switching valve.
The Gen-II replaces the factory air injection control driver, will plug into the factory harness in place of the VSV on the top passenger side of the intake and will wire into the pressure sensor at the ECM. Nothing else is needed. To do all this with the Gen-I kits you would need to add a pump proxy pack, a valve proxy pack and you would have to leave the VSVs and the air injection control driver in place.


The pressure sensor on the main air switching valve, I assume that's the one that has to stay somewhere connected to one of your harness connectors? maybe moved out to the drivers side fuel rail?
Again most people are just going to leave everything where it is because they are not pulling the intake manifold. You would just leave it in place connected to the factory harness. If you are getting rid of everything I would consider relocating the pressure sensor or PSO-wired and tie it in at the ECM under the dash. This is where the Gen-II taps into the pressure sensor circuit anyways. If you have the intake off you could wire the Gen-II 3 wires directly into the sensor instead of going all the way to the ECM but we do not really support this, any issues with the wire connections you would have to pull the intake again to get to it.

Is the 400$ option whats needed to accomplish this? or would one or two pressure sensor replacements be needed @ 200$ each.
I'd only think one, if someone's was damaged where it's connected to the main air switching valve?
The Gen-II is the $400 option that you would need to be a "delete" kit. You do not need the pressure sensors unless the one you have is damaged which is rare on this system configuration other than rodent wire damage. We wire a pigtail into the ECM and cut the old one loose there if they are damaged vs pulling the intake and replacing it directly.

there aren't pressure sensors in the vacuum switching valves, are there?
There are no pressure sensors in the N0.2 Air switching valves at the back of the engine, they are vacuum actuated by the VSV on the top passenger side of the intake manifold.

thanks for the hard work and info.
I totally understand if you just say, wait, we're not finished yet. I know this isn't easy stuff to deal with.
The Gen-II 3Valve kits are completely finished, just not the install instructions yet. We already have about 20-30 of them out in the wild and running free!
If anyone has any other quesitons please give us a call Toll Free 1-844-307-7671 or email us direct Support@hewitt-tech.com



8942171010 toyota map sensor, pressure sensor on main switching valve
Just a note about these sensors, just like other Toyota sensors, DO NOT use a $20-40 dollar sensor from ebay or amazon thinking they are the same and you are saving some money. There are tons of cheap knockoffs and counterfeits available. We use only genuine sensors in our pressure sensor products and import them from Toyota of Japan and pass what we can for savings along. We have never had a bad sensor.



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The installation on the 4.7L vehicles with this configuration
 
Thank you very much for that.
I'll get one soon.
Any advice with what to do with the older wired bypass kit? Sell it somewhere? Any turn in credit or something?
 

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