06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (4 Viewers)

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I just purchased on 06 and discovered this thread while searching "sounds like a turbo spooling".

I suppose i need to get on this quick like but i don't understand the part where the plug and play system possibly forces the driver to start the engine within a few seconds of the key entering the acc position.

Can anyone explain?
 
I just purchased on 06 and discovered this thread while searching "sounds like a turbo spooling".

I suppose i need to get on this quick like but i don't understand the part where the plug and play system possibly forces the driver to start the engine within a few seconds of the key entering the acc position.

Can anyone explain?

If you system is working now I dont think you have anything to worry about. Everything on my 06 was in working order and I did the bypass. After I did it I on purpose turned the key to on and waited for about a minute and started the LX from the on position and nothing happened. Did it more than once with the exact same results, nothing. With that said I did not say anything to my wife who will drive the LX from time to time about the mod and starting caution.
 
I just purchased on 06 and discovered this thread while searching "sounds like a turbo spooling".

I suppose i need to get on this quick like but i don't understand the part where the plug and play system possibly forces the driver to start the engine within a few seconds of the key entering the acc position.
Can anyone explain?

If you are hearing the air pump run on your cold start (first thing in the morning after the engine has been off for 7hrs or longer) for 30 seconds to a minute that is your air pump starting to fail.
Our bypass modules are triggered whenever the ignition is first turned on and then again whenever it senses 5-12V on the starter relay input wire. On our units with the starter relay wire connected you can start the vehicle at any time from the on position since the starter relay wire will re-trigger the module to prevent the system whenever you turn the key to start.

We used to say the starter relay wire was optional but when we first designed the unit it had a 5 second time out so it gave you more time to start the engine. That timeout period is now just a fraction of a second so it is important to either install the starter relay wire correctly or make sure you always start directly from the off position so the module is active.
If you Do Not connect the starter relay wire to the bypass module you would need to start the engine directly from the Off position or the module may time out before the engine starts. Without the starter relay wire connected if you wait in the ON position for longer than a fraction of a second before starting you would need to cycle the key off first and then start from the off position to ensure the module is triggered by ignition on for starting.

It is better just to install the starter relay wire and not worry about any of the key off-on-start timing. Install the starter relay wire and forget completely about it. You can sit with the key on all day long and play with the radio or roll your windows up without worrying about it, just operate it like normal.

We now have several addons to our bypass kits and can cover almost all of the other SAIS codes that the standard kit alone cannot.
For those trail and custom guys or those looking to just eliminate the whole system we are still working on a true Delete Kit... stay tuned and I need to get back to the lab.
Cheers.
 
Once again i am thankful for this forum!

Would you suggest a timeline for the complete delete? Or would you recommend i add your current kit now?

And yes i can hear the turbo spooling sound and yes i hear it bleed off (almost sounds like a baloon letting steam off) approximately a minute or 2 after start up.

Thanks
 
If you are hearing the air pump run on your cold start (first thing in the morning after the engine has been off for 7hrs or longer) for 30 seconds to a minute that is your air pump starting to fail.
Our bypass modules are triggered whenever the ignition is first turned on and then again whenever it senses 5-12V on the starter relay input wire. On our units with the starter relay wire connected you can start the vehicle at any time from the on position since the starter relay wire will re-trigger the module to prevent the system whenever you turn the key to start.

We used to say the starter relay wire was optional but when we first designed the unit it had a 5 second time out so it gave you more time to start the engine. That timeout period is now just a fraction of a second so it is important to either install the starter relay wire correctly or make sure you always start directly from the off position so the module is active.
If you Do Not connect the starter relay wire to the bypass module you would need to start the engine directly from the Off position or the module may time out before the engine starts. Without the starter relay wire connected if you wait in the ON position for longer than a fraction of a second before starting you would need to cycle the key off first and then start from the off position to ensure the module is triggered by ignition on for starting.

It is better just to install the starter relay wire and not worry about any of the key off-on-start timing. Install the starter relay wire and forget completely about it. You can sit with the key on all day long and play with the radio or roll your windows up without worrying about it, just operate it like normal.

We now have several addons to our bypass kits and can cover almost all of the other SAIS codes that the standard kit alone cannot.
For those trail and custom guys or those looking to just eliminate the whole system we are still working on a true Delete Kit... stay tuned and I need to get back to the lab.
Cheers.

With that said if a system is working fine and the bypass is installed. If one is to leave the key on past the recommended time and start what does one need to worry about?
 
Once again i am thankful for this forum!
Would you suggest a timeline for the complete delete? Or would you recommend i add your current kit now?
And yes i can hear the turbo spooling sound and yes i hear it bleed off (almost sounds like a baloon letting steam off) approximately a minute or 2 after start up.
Thanks

A minute or 2 bleed off sounds like a long time and might be something else like air ride suspension. The air pump failing if you hear it is more like an electric shop vac sound usually for only 30 seconds to a minute and it is an abrupt shutoff sound.

The delete kit we hope in the next couple of months but development has been slow.
 
With that said if a system is working fine and the bypass is installed. If one is to leave the key on past the recommended time and start what does one need to worry about?

Nothing, if you have the starter relay wire connected. If you don't have the starter relay wire installed, wait in the ON position on your cold start and don't cycle the ignition OFF before starting, the module will have timed out and the SAIS will try to run. Not that big of a deal on a good system but on one that has failed or starting to fail you can get trouble codes back on or do further damage the system.
Better to catch it early as possible so you don't have to put a pump pack or one of our other addons on there with the bypass kit.
 
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Nothing, if you have the starter relay wire connected. If you don't have the starter relay wire installed, wait in the ON position on your cold start and don't cycle the ignition OFF before starting the module will have timed out and the SAIS will try to run. Not that big of a deal on a good system but on one that has failed or starting to fail you can get trouble codes back on or further damage the system.
Better to catch it early as possible so you don't have to put a pump pack or one of our other addons on there with the bypass kit.

Thanks for the verification I did the bypass before any failure or signs of failure.
 
Hey guy's been a while since I read through this thread, so excuses me if these question have been answered.:hmm:

I'm hoping this thread can clear up or help me with.

First: I read that, as A/I system is failing, a turbo like winning sound will be heard on cold start for first minute or so. Will a DTC be store in this event?

Second: What does activate a DTC for A/I?

Third: About how much are parts if I want to just fix to factory spec?

I ask because I'm buying and 06 that I've not heard from cold start. But I have run heath check for DTCs any did not see any on AI. Could be seller is setting me up, by not letting me hear cold!
 
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Nothing, if you have the starter relay wire connected. If you don't have the starter relay wire installed, wait in the ON position on your cold start and don't cycle the ignition OFF before starting, the module will have timed out and the SAIS will try to run. Not that big of a deal on a good system but on one that has failed or starting to fail you can get trouble codes back on or do further damage the system.
Better to catch it early as possible so you don't have to put a pump pack or one of our other addons on there with the bypass kit.
Nothing, if you have the starter relay wire connected. If you don't have the starter relay wire installed, wait in the ON position on your cold start and don't cycle the ignition OFF before starting, the module will have timed out and the SAIS will try to run. Not that big of a deal on a good system but on one that has failed or starting to fail you can get trouble codes back on or do further damage the system.
Better to catch it early as possible so you don't have to put a pump pack or one of our other addons on there with the bypass kit.

The sound my 2006 lc makes stays on for 20-30 seconds on a cold start (ive counted seconds several times now). I still have the "turbo spool up sound" as well that bleeds off but i have a shop vac sound (albeit not as loud) for 20-30 seconds that stops immediately when it does stop.

And my 2006 lc does not have ahc.

Thanks
 
I've started hear the sound intermittently now for a couple weeks. I'll be picking up the Hewitt kit very soon.
 
Question for Hewitttech, or others that have installed the bypass....

Since installing my kit, I have noticed a significant drop in fuel economy - worse than normal for our rigs. I live in LA, and only drive short distances usually, which I know generally cause worse than normal gas mileage, but pre-install I would get 10-11mpg, and now I am getting 8mpg. Has anyone else experienced this? And if so, is there anyway to fix it? I am driving to CO next month and perhaps mpg will be normal at 14-15 for highway miles (After warm up, etc.), but I'd like to fix the city driving mpg if possible.

Thanks
 
Any word on the system delete?

A minute or 2 bleed off sounds like a long time and might be something else like air ride suspension. The air pump failing if you hear it is more like an electric shop vac sound usually for only 30 seconds to a minute and it is an abrupt shutoff sound.

The delete kit we hope in the next couple of months but development has been slow.
 
Can anyone else comment on ATXcruiers observed drop in fuel economy?

Question for Hewitttech, or others that have installed the bypass....

Since installing my kit, I have noticed a significant drop in fuel economy - worse than normal for our rigs. I live in LA, and only drive short distances usually, which I know generally cause worse than normal gas mileage, but pre-install I would get 10-11mpg, and now I am getting 8mpg. Has anyone else experienced this? And if so, is there anyway to fix it? I am driving to CO next month and perhaps mpg will be normal at 14-15 for highway miles (After warm up, etc.), but I'd like to fix the city driving mpg if possible.

Thanks
 
Sorry for the slow response. I am not getting subscribed to threads I post in...fixed.

Shouldn't have anything to do with the bypass module. After the first half a second of running the module is completely passive.
If this was a wired in kit that you installed I would recommend going over your connections again. The circuits we are dealing with are sensitive to any extra resistance and could be affecting your intake temperatures which could alter something like that.
You might also try resetting all of your fuel trims by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and let it retune. There are other things that can be factors like a dirty maf, air filter and mostly aging 02 sensors.
 
Also, we are still working on the delete kit. I will try to keep everyone posted. You can also follow us on facebook for the announcement when it is available. We will be needing Beta testers first. Hopefully before the end of the year.
 
Can anyone else comment on ATXcruiers observed drop in fuel economy?

Did the bypass back in April and I have noticed no change in anything, like I never did anything. Just now I dont worry about the air pumps at all, a win IMO.
 
sign me up for beta.. I will gladly tear all of it apart.

No drop in fuel mileage for me either.
 
This morning I turned the LC on and got a CEL, followed by the VSC lights and went into limp mode (~20mph max). Luckily I was still in the neighborhood when this happened. Codes are p1441, p1444, and p2440.

P1441 AIR valve bank 1 open stuck:
P1444 AIR valve bank 2 open stuck:
P2440 AIR valve open stuck:​

The Hewitt kit is $259 AND addresses these codes. eBay are $199.

Two new valves are $81/ea for no1/no2, $164 for the air switching valve, and a new pump is $414.
 
that sucks man. Unless I had planned before hand to take the manifold off I'd buy the bypass, again. My knees couldn't handle that a second time in less than a year.
I won't work over the top of it again until I get one of those topside creeper dolly things. I'm too old.
 

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