06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (3 Viewers)

[Pjo113]

One full month after Hewittech bypass install, still no problems , knock on wood, been using the LX as my DD this past month.

 

[hewitttech]

One full month after Hewittech bypass install, still no problems , knock on wood, been using the LX as my DD this past month.

Always good to hear.
Just an update for those who have asked. I have been working really hard the last 2-3 weeks on the Full Delete Version. It is mostly functioning now but as this whole project has been there is always one more piece of the puzzle to still figure out.

 

[04UZJ100]

Always good to hear.
Just an update for those who have asked. I have been working really hard the last 2-3 weeks on the Full Delete Version. It is mostly functioning now but as this whole project has been there is always one more piece of the puzzle to still figure out.

Any update on 2014+ LC/LX?

 

[hewitttech]

Any update on 2014+ LC/LX?

The next generation of kits (in one variation or another) would theoretically work on all 05' to the current 19' model years.
We will first be focusing on the 13-15' model years and vehicles.

 

[HburgEagle]

I ordered the plug & play unit on a Thursday, had it on Saturday. I can't say enough about the build quality. I installed the main unit and signal wire early this morning before the kids got up. Looks like I'll have to wait for another day when have more time to do the block-off plates. At least now I can keep the dummy lights off the dash.

 

[94SRUNNER]

@hewitttech any updates on the full SAIS delete kits.

 

[Pjo113]

Well I am 2 months post the bypass with block plates on an 06 LX and unfortunately I threw a p2445 code again (this was the code I originally threw prompting the bypass) driving into work today.
This is with the hewittech system and relay. I am going to double check the relay and wiring but any ideas how this code could reappear again if it is bypassed?

 

[Jimthom]

Well I am 2 months post the bypass with block plates on an 06 LX and unfortunately I threw a p2445 code again (this was the code I originally threw prompting the bypass) driving into work today.
This is with the hewittech system and relay. I am going to double check the relay and wiring but any ideas how this code could reappear again if it is bypassed?

I have been following this thread for a while.
The Hewitt site has this statement:

P2445 - Pump Stuck OFF Bank 1* Important cold weather note, see below in red.

*On some 2005-06 vehicles with 4.7L engines, there is a known cold weather glitch in the ECM that can occur when driving in near-freezing or below-freezing temperatures. If you start your vehicle in freezing temperatures, and the P2445 code displays as you near 50 mph, a glitch in the ECM is the cause.

There is more. I have only copied the guts of the issue.

This may be your problem.
Please let us know what you discover.
Thanks.

 

[Jimthom]

Well I am 2 months post the bypass with block plates on an 06 LX and unfortunately I threw a p2445 code again (this was the code I originally threw prompting the bypass) driving into work today.
This is with the hewittech system and relay. I am going to double check the relay and wiring but any ideas how this code could reappear again if it is bypassed?

I should have added the page at the Hewitt site, it is under Codes:
Hewitt-Tech | SAIS Failure & Bypass Codes

It states that with the ECM glitch, Limp mode does not (usually) occur and the Error code can just be reset.
It only occurs on cold start ups.

 

[Pjo113]

Thanks for your input Jimthom. I hope a glitch is the culprit. The bypass was flawless until today.
CEL threw about 20 minutes into ride, not at start up and it DID go into limp mode (I was just pulling up the drive to the office)
I reset it at work (where I am now) with my bluedriver code scanner.
I will pray this doesnt come back.
With Northeast temps falling though and if this truly is the cause I may see it again.
I will post the outcome and if necesary I will call up Hewittech.

 

[Jimthom]

Thanks for your input Jimthom. I hope a glitch is the culprit. The bypass was flawless until today.
CEL threw about 20 minutes into ride, not at start up and it DID go into limp mode (I was just pulling up the drive to the office)
I reset it at work (where I am now) with my bluedriver code scanner.
I will pray this doesnt come back.
With Northeast temps falling though and if this truly is the cause I may see it again.
I will post the outcome and if necesary I will call up Hewittech.

I hope so , too.

I will add, for those that do not want to read the Hewitt site, that this ECU glitch occurs on cold starts and then when 50 MPH is first hit. So not at start up per se.

Yes, would be curious to know your follow up.

I guess I am playing with fire by not installing a bypass yet. I intend to do it soon.

 

[Pjo113]

I am thinking this is likely what happened.
It was cold this am, and I started the car and hit over 50 soon thereafter, and I only probably noticed the cel close too work.
Fingers crossed.
The Toyota secondary air injection system sucks big time.

 

[Pjo113]

Update: Freezing temps yesterday in MA.
I heated up the LX, turned off, then turned back on a preheated engine. Drove up to 60 mph shortly thereafter. No CEL thrown.
This has to be the cold weather glitch Hewittech mentions on his site.
This is an inconvenience and I’d love to resolve this but a doable workaround to ensure the darn CEL doesn’t return.
Thanks

 

[hawk767]

I purchased a 07 LC earlier this year with 176,000k miles or so. Shortly after I got a P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency below threshold Bank 1. I ended up replacing all 4 O2 sensors and it was able to pass emissions, no CEL etc.

Recently I got the P2445 code with the P0420 code again. I researched and found this thread, it turns out that the bypass was already installed on the LC around mid December 2018, (there's an etching on the module). Looks to be installed correctly. I was driving home from work, it's Late April here and temps were not close to freezing, but it was raining and cooler than normal. I think It came on around 35mph and 45mph about 5 minutes after leaving work.

Any thoughts? Thanks all for info provided above over the years. Very helpful.

 

[hewitttech]

It is rare to see an 07 4.7L have the cold weather issue but we have seen a couple of vehicles with the issue. If the P2445 code comes on as you are driving it is pretty much always going to be the cold weather issue. If it does it again look at the "Freeze Frame" data with an OBDII tool. You will be able to see the starting ECT temperature at or near freezing and the vehicle speed at the time the first code was set to confirm the condition. If that is the issue the warmup/restart cycle when the temperatures are near freezing will prevent it from happening in those temperatures.
The only other way we have seen a P2445 code come on would be from a damaged secondary air pressure sensor. This is very rare on any 4.7L that uses the secondary air configured with two vacuum actuated #2 air switching valves like most 4.7L engines because the pressure sensor is located just after the air pump on the #1 solenoid actuated air switching valve. The pressure sensor on your vehicle is located much further from the exhaust than the systems with only 2 solenoid actuated air switching valves. Again you would need to look at the freeze frame data to try and determine if it was the freezing temp issue or not.

The P0420 code could be a few things. #1 You have an exhaust leak somewhere on that side of the exhaust, #2 you did not use OEM o2 sensors (ALWAYS do that on a Yota) or #3 your catalyst is actually bad and needs to be replaced. Again using the freeze frame data you can look at and compare both upstream and downstream 02 sensors to give you a better idea. If both upstream 02 sensors look the same and the driver side rear sensor is registering different than the bank 2 you have an exhaust leak between the upstream and downstream bank 1 sensors or the bank1 catalyst is bad.

After getting our Next Generation units released soon and everything up and running smooth with them I hope to look at being able to solve the cold weather issue once and for all with a modified version of one of our existing units. We will not know how this will work until then or if getting around the cold weather issue will cause a cold weather start ability issue.

 

[2001LC]

I've run to the P1445, which I had my parts guy at Toyota run the DTC in his system. His system in parts department kicked- out a TS-B-0230-12. That suggested the entire A.I. system be replaced. That apparently the fan blade explodes, sending shards throughout the system.

But I found battery post had been compromised by CRC red battery spray "junk". The red stuff leached into area between post and the clamps of battery. This created high resistance and the battery sulfate loosing charge (down to 2.5v). It took three days of cycling on a charger to get voltage back up to over 13V .

Now the CEL is off and I can hear A.I. fan spin during cold start-up's for about 90 seconds. No returning CEL/DTC's. I need to drive more to make sure. But the 100 series has very funny reaction/issues to low voltage and the VVT is A.I. system even more so.

 

[hewitttech]

Iit sounds like it is just time for a new battery. Regaurdless, a dead battery did not cause your air pump to go bad. On a 4.7L it is usually just time and temperature that degrades the plastic pump parts and then they start to chew up the pump housing and cause the pump motor to keep drawing more and more power. On a 4.7L if you can hear the pump running it is on its way out and will continue to get worse typically it will start to throw valve stuck open codes and eventually burn out the pump motor.

 

[2001LC]

Actually it was with a new Toyota Battery. It was just the CRC battery red spray that caused the battery to not accept charge. Like oxidation on dry battery post will duo!

I'm not so sure "Cold" has anything to do with the A.I pump/fan. I've worked on 200K mile 06-07 rigs, used for Vail skiing tips to and from Denver. Temp ranging form -20F to 105 F with daily swings of 70 f. All of A.I> system still good on those

I do not think the battery "caused the A.I . pump or system to go bad". I think low voltage cause ECU or what have you, to make system think AI had issue, and shut it down with a few DTC coming up. Once I cleared the DTC and fixed battery issue (charged and cleaned post) issue has not returned.


I'll keep and eye on and keep listening to pump. Thanks!

 

[hawk767]

It is rare to see an 07 4.7L have the cold weather issue but we have seen a couple of vehicles with the issue. If the P2445 code comes on as you are driving it is pretty much always going to be the cold weather issue. If it does it again look at the "Freeze Frame" data with an OBDII tool. You will be able to see the starting ECT temperature at or near freezing and the vehicle speed at the time the first code was set to confirm the condition. If that is the issue the warmup/restart cycle when the temperatures are near freezing will prevent it from happening in those temperatures.
The only other way we have seen a P2445 code come on would be from a damaged secondary air pressure sensor. This is very rare on any 4.7L that uses the secondary air configured with two vacuum actuated #2 air switching valves like most 4.7L engines because the pressure sensor is located just after the air pump on the #1 solenoid actuated air switching valve. The pressure sensor on your vehicle is located much further from the exhaust than the systems with only 2 solenoid actuated air switching valves. Again you would need to look at the freeze frame data to try and determine if it was the freezing temp issue or not.

The P0420 code could be a few things. #1 You have an exhaust leak somewhere on that side of the exhaust, #2 you did not use OEM o2 sensors (ALWAYS do that on a Yota) or #3 your catalyst is actually bad and needs to be replaced. Again using the freeze frame data you can look at and compare both upstream and downstream 02 sensors to give you a better idea. If both upstream 02 sensors look the same and the driver side rear sensor is registering different than the bank 2 you have an exhaust leak between the upstream and downstream bank 1 sensors or the bank1 catalyst is bad.

After getting our Next Generation units released soon and everything up and running smooth with them I hope to look at being able to solve the cold weather issue once and for all with a modified version of one of our existing units. We will not know how this will work until then or if getting around the cold weather issue will cause a cold weather start ability issue.

Thanks for replying so soon. The temperature outside was 65 when the code was thrown. Regarding the O2 sensors I used the Denso brand which is what I think the OEM uses as well. I'm hoping the P0420 is just an exhaust leak at this point and not the cat. I'll try to reset the light and see if the P2445 code comes on again.

 

[2001LC]

Iit sounds like it is just time for a new battery. Regaurdless, a dead battery did not cause your air pump to go bad. On a 4.7L it is usually just time and temperature that degrades the plastic pump parts and then they start to chew up the pump housing and cause the pump motor to keep drawing more and more power. On a 4.7L if you can hear the pump running it is on its way out and will continue to get worse typically it will start to throw valve stuck open codes and eventually burn out the pump motor.

@hewitttech I incorrectly wrote a DTC of P2445 I've corrected that to a P1445 above.

Why is the P1445 coming up in a 2UZ VVT?

Is this for one of the two switches on the back of engine connected to the water bypass joint rear on BK1 (LH side) (other on RH side BK 2). Which has the tube running from it into the exhaust manifold were the block off plate goes?

I can hear the AI system shut down with a loud sound. Hard to hear otherwise.