Cage Cost? (1 Viewer)

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Adventure Teq

Adventure Teq

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I'm thinking about selling the cage I currently have (see pic) on ebay or here to offset the material costs for building a family cage. It's a nice cage and would work nicely for someone without 3 kids. I'd rather not build onto it, rather just build a whole new one. I'm not talking anything too extravagant. Trying to figure, if it sold for $100-$200 or so (hopefully more) how close that would bring me to the material cost for the new one.

This, among other projects, is helping me to convince the wife into getting the bender, kids' safety and all ;) . I've checked into the MetalTech and although they are nice I want to try some homebrew, and I need more tools. :D

Question is: Those of you who have built one, about how many feet of tubing did you use, I havn't even called around for pricing so what can I expect it to cost per foot, and about how much did your cage cost. Yeah I know there are a million different ways and all cost different, so feel free to show a pic of yours for reference. :D



Thanks fellas, :beer:

and ladies ;)
IMG_0008s.webp
 
Is yours the stock (OEM) rollbar with an added front loop and connecting pieces, do you know? It looks like the OEM joints where the rear truss pieces connect to the b pillar loop behind the seat.

Thing about steel tubing is that there are various types and wall thickness/strengths. That's where Metal-Tech is good. The owner/designer/builder has spent a career working with steel tube and designs his cages both for maximum useability along with maximum safety. Your own safety is one thing but the safety of your innocent victims :) is another. Don't approach this project with an eye to cost only, OK?
 
Last week I bought 80 ft of 2" .120 wall HREW for $165. That is wholesale. Bent B-pillar last night :). I already had my a-pillars from metal-tech which are DOM. I'm hoping I have some tube left over for a nose guard or some fenders; I’ll prolly have to pick up some more though.
 
honk said:
Is yours the stock (OEM) rollbar with an added front loop and connecting pieces, do you know? It looks like the OEM joints where the rear truss pieces connect to the b pillar loop behind the seat.
Click to expand...

Um... yeah, I do know... and right you are :D . It sure is the OEM bar with a front hoop added and cross bars attatched. It has nice OEM pads at the knees and over head too ;) .

honk said:
Thing about steel tubing is that there are various types and wall thickness/strengths. That's where Metal-Tech is good. The owner/designer/builder has spent a career working with steel tube and designs his cages both for maximum useability along with maximum safety. Your own safety is one thing but the safety of your innocent victims :) is another. Don't approach this project with an eye to cost only, OK?
Click to expand...

Well said, I couldn't agree more about safety, and thanks for your concern :) . But I don't take any shortcuts on safety, and no cost is not my focus. So don't you worry, OK? ;) Just trying to get an idea of numbers for the :princess: . I hear what you are saying about Metal Tech, and I think they are high quality well refined products. But I gotta start heading down that road sometime just like everyone else, and I wouldn't really need a bender if I just bought pre-made pieces ;) . Did I mention that I really want a bender for other projects too :D . And although I like their family cage, I'd like mine a little different.

So, do you got any of those pesky numbers I was askin about??? Thanks :beer:
 
Here's a pic of mine, Hawk. I have a fiberglass tub, so mine has framing beneath the tub that attaches the cage to the frame at all 8 points. Mine is totally independent of the body. Built it about 8 years ago so I forget costs/amount of tubing. Definately cheaper and mor custom than if you buy one.
 
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bustanutley said:
Last week I bought 80 ft of 2" .120 wall HREW for $165. That is wholesale. Bent B-pillar last night :). I already had my a-pillars from metal-tech which are DOM. I'm hoping I have some tube left over for a nose guard or some fenders; I’ll prolly have to pick up some more though.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks. Post up some pics of the process :D .
 
Damn Capn. That thing is stizzzout and looks sweet too. I agree about being glass it needs to be reinforced to the frame. I was thinking about running supports with plates up to beneath the floor and the cage's plates, putting some hard rubber between the lower plate and body to allow for flex (maybe 1/4 inch or so), and sandwiching it all together. I think with 4 bolts at each point it would more than strong enough in a roll over and you could take the cage off.

Or hell, I may go some other route when I actually get to it.
 
On a slow-impact roll, with large enough backing plates and base plates, you may be able to achieve enough load distribution at the tub/cage mounts to prevent a failure. Just remember, fiberglass does crack, especially if you have a concentrated load on it. I went with an 8-point cage to help lessen the loads at the bases of the cage.

My rig does suffer from being a little stiff, due to the cage mounting directly to frame. BTW, my cage is completely removeable. I designed it with stanchions at the bases that slip firmly into the bottom legs of the cage. Then, each one has a grade 8 thru-bolt to hold it all together.
 
bustanutley said:
Last week I bought 80 ft of 2" .120 wall HREW for $165. That is wholesale. Bent B-pillar last night :). I already had my a-pillars from metal-tech which are DOM. I'm hoping I have some tube left over for a nose guard or some fenders; I’ll prolly have to pick up some more though.
Click to expand...

:eek: where you gettin you tube from zak?
i priced DOM last week 1.25-1.5" .0120 wall 24 foot stick at the most was $96.
most places wanted a minimum of $125. and that was a 20' stick
 
Here's one I made with 2 stock hoops. It's a Halo design up front, with two downlegs at the front corners, instead of having a front hoop at the dash/windshield. The grab handles at the upper front corners are real handy.
 
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Killeen TX,

And for future reference, if any one's interested I have a PM box. This wasn't intended to be a for sale ad, and as of right now it's not for sale. We don't want any citations being issued or any punitive actions taken ;)

Thanks though :D
 
HawkDriver said:
Killeen TX,

And for future reference, if any one's interested I have a PM box. This wasn't intended to be a for sale ad, and as of right now it's not for sale. We don't want any citations being issued or any punitive actions taken ;)

Thanks though :D
Click to expand...

Sorry, my bad. (still a newbie)

My uncle used to live in Killeen, he was in the military, he flew helicopters, but don't know what type right now.
 
Hawk-


You will need a minimum of 80 feet of 2” tubing for a ‘family’ cage…



I would get at least 100’, as you are going to want stringers, and if safety is your priority, frame mount it in at least six locations....



You will probably need more than your 100’ of tubing then, and if you went with the design that Captain has posted, you are at 120’ for sure....




The tubing that I usually purchase comes in 20’ sticks. I have not purchased tubing for a while, and cannot find my last slip, but I am certain that it would be off, as material prices have increased substantially…


Hoops eat 20' sticks, and leave you enough for one stringer usually....


Good luck!


-Steve
 
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