1974 1F motor rebuild - What are rational cost estimates?

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I just got a quote for my 79. $5k with me bringing the stripped down block and head to them. $5k if it needed ALL new parts. Probably still north of $4500 if some parts are in good repair.

I wish I had done the leak down test before I started tearing everything apart. I ended up pulling the head, lapping the valves, all new gaskets. I’ll see how low the compression is once it’s running again.

Highly recommend a leak down. Know what you have and what direction to go in.
 
I have a February 1974 manufacture FJ40.

Mine was the F and 1/2 engine.

The engine number was F529312. Per the SOR website (old) that S/N engine was built between 9/73 and 5/74.

I think someone has been in your truck and change the cosmetic stuff, like the valve cover, and the air cleaner.


But my truck, which was built five months after yours had the stamped sheet metal valve cover, and the big, huge round air cleaner that hung down on the driver side of the engine (the air cleaner doesn't mount on top of the valve cover).

The air cleaner you have sure looks to me like it’s from a much later generation truck, and everybody changes the stamped valve cover for a cast one because they seal better (and look more modern!)…

Here's a picture or two…

(You can just make out the valve cover and air cleaner... Can't find any better pictures... This photo was back in 1998, when we had to use those daguerreotype cameras!).

Rocky


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VIN_Production_Date_Chart.jpg

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Same here. 10/74 FJ40 with engine number F562953. Same later F.5 oiling system, same holes in the head for the later air cleaner, but I have the big ol' F air cleaner. Same 2F alternator mounting holes in the head. Stamped steel valve cover, but they leaked a lot for some people (mine doesn't) and that was a common swap-out for the later aluminum cover.

I love the inline six cylinder engine and would have a hard decision to make when this one finally goes. Still running strong, but driving down and back from Portland to the Rubicon last summer was a little tough on it. Planning on the same trip this year with some additional precautions, but 50 years is 50 years. I don't really have any desire to move on from the Toyota F/2F, but they're all getting a little long in the tooth, inefficient, low HP, and quality internal parts are getting tougher to source, at least at a reasonable price.

Lots of options for relatively easy swaps that would end up about the same price or a bit cheaper than rebuilding the F motor. Swapping in a running 2F used to be a great option, but they're all old now too. If I were going to drop a 2F in now, I'd really like to go with the Mosely cop motor treatment ($$$$). Chevy small-block V8 used to be the go-to, but seems like most guys are leaning toward the more modern LS instead of an old 350 carbureted engine. The 2.8 Cummins diesel swaps were real popular for a while. Seems a little less popular now, but not sure why. You could spend hours and hours reading here about other possible swaps. No perfect solutions, just trade-offs. If the engine is truly cooked after a thorough inspection, weigh your priorities for the truck moving forward. Period-correct restoration? Trail truck with power to move big tires? Highway power for a pavement truck? Jack of all trades? Do you care about staying with a Toyota 6? Lots and lots of options, none of them cheap.
 
Lots of folks are getting-by, or doing pretty well with just from the headgasket-and-up. Keep the block in the truck if you can. It is possible that it just needs valve work. It probably needs more, but there is quite a bit of compression loss if you have a stuck or bent valve. Replace what needs replacing, lap all of the valves for a fresh tight seal, and install new valve stem seals to keep the oil in check here. The big picture at this point is we still don't know what was at fault, right?
 
Oct 73 build date and Vin is a late '73 #. Should be an F engine with 3 on the tree if not altered.
Domestic market FJ40s transitioned to floor shift in 1971. My '72 is floor shift from factory.
 
I wouldn’t listen to anyone’s opinion of what “should be” in it, run the numbers and find out. I had a 69 that “should be” an F engine but it was a Chevy 396.
Heads, blocks, intake, exhaust, carb, transmissions, axles can all be easily changed in 50+ years of history. There’s a 100% original 1971 near me for sale with a 4 speed and 2F.
 
To take your cruiser in somewhere a turn key build from tear down to break in can cost $20K and go up from there depending on how much you want done. That was a quote I got from Justin at Redline for a fairly standard turn key build.
The route I ended up going I sourced a fully built motor with all accessories (carb, distributor, over bored, lighter pistons, manifolds, clutch assembly) for around $8k and I did the removal and install work myself. All in with new hoses, 2F fan shroud, belts I was about $10K.
I too started with a F.5 motor and decided to go 2F on the swap since F.5 motor parts are harder to come by. Head bolts are NLA.
I would suggest at minimum resealing your tranny and T case while it's out.
 
Hi all,
I was just informed that I have no compression in one cylinder. Is there a possibilities that someone can give me any cost figures if I choose to rebuild?
Parts cost plus/and labor costs for 3rd party to do it. I'm going into this blind.
Thanks
Michael
I think the overhaul kits are around $500. Anything touching the block I have ever heard of is always over 1k for labor but I never had your specific problem. @cruiseroutfit (Cruiser Outfitters) has been very patient and good on every interaction. They go above and beyond to help. Spectre Offroad has free PDF manuals for download. Good luck.
 

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