OVERHEATING PROBLEMS. I have a 69 fj-40 with a 350 chevy conversion. . I recently installed power steering and with this conversion I have to raise the radiator 2" to 3" higher than the stock location. The radiator is stock and I was told it is in pretty good shape. Ever since the change the pig is overheating. The radiator boils and If i dont stop in time it will boil over. I did change the thermostat ( can a new thermostat be bad???). Currently, I have purchased a fan shroud, and I will probably purchase a fan clutch. I hope to have those installed soon. Has anybody experienced this problem or a similar one??? All comments would be appreciated.
over heating fj-40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kerry
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You can get a new therm that is bad every once in a while. What temp is the therm? A shroud will probably solve your problem. I used a stock rad for years with a shroud and flex fan. When I switched motor mounts, I had to lower the Rad and the flex fan would no longer work. I switched to an electric Volvo fan. Get your shroud on and see how it works. I think I run a low temp therm.
FWIW, on my 350 I run a 160 t-stat - 195 is a bit high with your setup I believe.
kerry said:
No, swap it out for a 160..
And a recirculating catch can would be nice too..
If your cooling system isn't working it doesn't make a damn what temperature your thermostat opens at - 195 or 100. They will both be wide open and you will still be overheating.kerry said:
I agree with Mace. You need a good radiator. A shroud helps a lot.
I have power steering. I lowered my radiatior an inch. Why did you have to raise yours?
dgangle
total rice
Cooling any water-cooled vehicle is a combination of four things: airflow (fan/shroud), water flow (waterpump/thermostat) and fluid at pressure to raise the boiling point. Proper cooling of a Chevota has been debated before and surely will be again. I cannot understand how anyone living where the ambient temperature is over 70-75F can cool a SBC in a 40 with the stock radiator, whether it's 3, 4 or 50 cores deep. I guess it's how one defines "cool". Some go by the needle position on the stock gauge, others with a high-quality aftermarket gauge. To some, anything over 180 is too hot, others may define hot at 230F.
Up to a few weeks ago I tried everything short of a larger, non OE-type radiator: 4-core HD radiator, high flow WP/TS, water wetter, solid fans, flex fans, elctric fans, shrouds, diffferent bumpers, no bumper, remove the winch, snake oil and prayer. Somethings made no difference, while others helped some. The final solution for me was to go larger, aluminum radiator. I do not know why I waited so long. See
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=92199
It really wasn't that hard. Just more $$.
Up to a few weeks ago I tried everything short of a larger, non OE-type radiator: 4-core HD radiator, high flow WP/TS, water wetter, solid fans, flex fans, elctric fans, shrouds, diffferent bumpers, no bumper, remove the winch, snake oil and prayer. Somethings made no difference, while others helped some. The final solution for me was to go larger, aluminum radiator. I do not know why I waited so long. See
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=92199
It really wasn't that hard. Just more $$.
dgangle
total rice
Here's a good link from a while ago on this subject.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=67930
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=67930
I am using an aluminum 29" radiator from Summit Racing along with a Black Magix Extreme electric fan I have never gone over 205 degrees, even on a 100 degree day. Most of the time I run around 190 degrees with a 180 degree thermostat. See pics below.
Radiator cost = $179, electric fan = $250, new thermostat & hoses = $45 ...having a properly cooled V8 in a landcruiser, PRICELESS!
Radiator cost = $179, electric fan = $250, new thermostat & hoses = $45 ...having a properly cooled V8 in a landcruiser, PRICELESS!
Last edited:
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I have power steering. I lowered my radiatior an inch. Why did you have to raise your
The power steering installation would not allow the rad to stay in the original location. Had to raise it around 2".
"FMAN" - Regarding that 29" rad from summit, did it drop right in? Or is that a dream? How difficult was the modification.
The power steering installation would not allow the rad to stay in the original location. Had to raise it around 2".
"FMAN" - Regarding that 29" rad from summit, did it drop right in? Or is that a dream? How difficult was the modification.
1973Guppie
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get your stock recored to a 4 core and purchase and install a taurus fan, this should cool it. i have a vortec and it runs consistently at 195, which is the proper temp for these engines, all day long, up hills, etc, in hot socal weather. In my opinion, getting the stock radiator recored and swapping in a taurus fan is a good cheap $ solution vs. the other options out there.
Noah
Noah
1973Guppie said:
there is a fan for sale in the for sale section as we speak
hey fman can you measure the thickness of your raiator and fan combo, i like that set up and want to know if itll fit in my rig. thanks
dgangle
total rice
Speaking of Taurus fans, what is the going rate for a good used one? Just curious.
dgangle said:
40+/- bucks is about the norm
dgangle
total rice
Let me start by saying that I have no reason to doubt what you are saying is true. I tried the same arrangement and my recently rebuilt, stock carb'd mid 80's 350 ran +230F consistently at sustained high speeds or when pulling any type of small load anytime the outside temp was over 75F.1973Guppie said:
I'm glad it worked for you and everyone's experiences can be different but I think the general consensus of successfully cooled Chevotas involve a bigger radiator of whatever material. I found the stock radiator no matter how many cores it had to be grossly inadequate at the task.
dgangle
total rice
...gotta a star...more pics
dgangle
total rice
more
dgangle
total rice
...and my planned shroud. Can anyone recommend someone that could make this from say 0.060" aluminum for less than my first born?
