kcjaz
SILVER Star
By “plug and play” you mean the Kaymar kit comes with an extension cable that directly plugs into the OEM connector you removed from the OEM camera? Do you have a picture?
Rear Camera relocation kits? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter rlynch356
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- camera kits rear rear camera relocation
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Photo looks like it connects where the harness does in the ceiling of the truck. Which would actually be better since getting wire through the hatch is a PITFA.
I might get a chance tackle this mod tomorrow. If so, I'll take some pics.
- Thread starter
- #24
here is the reply... I am waiting for my invoice to order it.
I specified a 2017 US 200 series Model with 360 Camera's (which we have)..
The K6314JC-Kit plugs into the factory wiring loom in the vehicle. no cutting is required.
Regards.
AutoPacific Australia Pty Ltd
(Hayman Reese/Rola/Kaymar/Thetford)
This is the left side swing arm under jerry can version so the camera bracket is a 90 L type.. which works for me.
Oh and they do not have a USA distributor right now.. so LRA is no longer a source..
I specified a 2017 US 200 series Model with 360 Camera's (which we have)..
The K6314JC-Kit plugs into the factory wiring loom in the vehicle. no cutting is required.
Regards.
AutoPacific Australia Pty Ltd
(Hayman Reese/Rola/Kaymar/Thetford)
This is the left side swing arm under jerry can version so the camera bracket is a 90 L type.. which works for me.
Oh and they do not have a USA distributor right now.. so LRA is no longer a source..
This is my Kaymar Kit. I think i was missing a mounting bracket. The instructions say it came with two mounting options, mine only had this one. Large wire loom connects in the upper left hand corner (rear hatch) headliner and runs down through the floor. Luckily they include a nice grommet. Then the smaller loom runs from under the rear quarter up onto your bumper to the camera.
You have to remove the camera of course. Kaymar instructions say to just remove from here. Those plastic inserts for the screws that hold it in are very difficult to remove - or they were for me. I ended up removing the panels from the rear hatch to gain access from behind. I was also installing a cruiser outfitters rear hatch release / handle so you can exit from the hatch when sleeping in the vehicle - so I had to remove the hatch panels anyway. You'll reuse those plastic clips to reattach the black cover plate that comes in the kit. I use a few butyl strips on the cover plate in efforts to weatherproof it. The factory camera mount had gasketing, the cover plate does not.
This is the plug just under the headliner you need to disconnect. You will need to pull back the upper and lower cargo panels to be able to access this area. First you'll need to remove the tailgate cover/flap trim piece on the floor. I just popped the first set of clips along the egde of the cargo opening and propped the panels open while I worked in there.
Then connect the Kaymar harness into the end secured up in the headliner and the other connector onto the factory one you disconnected. Route the loom down the rear corner.
You'll need to drill a hole in the floor for this grommet. The corrugated wire in the photo is the Kaymar loom. I think the hole diameter is about 1 1/8". It was much easier for me to drill from below with an extension on my drill. I was also installing my radio antenna and fished the wire through that same grommet, that is the additional wire you see in the pic.
Installation of the wiring and camera were easy, it was just all the panel removal and drilling the hole, etc that was time consuming.
This is the plug just under the headliner you need to disconnect. You will need to pull back the upper and lower cargo panels to be able to access this area. First you'll need to remove the tailgate cover/flap trim piece on the floor. I just popped the first set of clips along the egde of the cargo opening and propped the panels open while I worked in there.
Then connect the Kaymar harness into the end secured up in the headliner and the other connector onto the factory one you disconnected. Route the loom down the rear corner.
You'll need to drill a hole in the floor for this grommet. The corrugated wire in the photo is the Kaymar loom. I think the hole diameter is about 1 1/8". It was much easier for me to drill from below with an extension on my drill. I was also installing my radio antenna and fished the wire through that same grommet, that is the additional wire you see in the pic.
Installation of the wiring and camera were easy, it was just all the panel removal and drilling the hole, etc that was time consuming.
I modified their bracket and mounted the camera here temporarily. The wide angle still captures quite a bit of the spare tire. I fabricated another bracket and plan to install on the underside of the swing out basket so that the camera is about flush with the spare tire. I don't tow with my 200 so not concerned about the hitch. I mainly wanted to see what's behind me easier. Keep in mind that moving the rear camera will mess up your 360 degree view a little. From the factory its calibrated for the stock location, so moving the camera causes some discrepancy in the rear corners of that view, not a big deal for me.
On the 2013 there’s a recalibration process where you can moves the lines around. I suspect something similar exists for 2016+
Oh, good to know. I'll have to look into that.
Has anyone relocated the camera INSIDE the hatch? I live in a place where winter is a constant freeze/melt situation, the backup camera is effectively useless 6 months out of the year because Toyota didn’t think to put a washer nozzle or cover on the camera while driving.
My thought would be putting the camera inside the rear glass so it can still give visibility and take advantage of the rear windshield wiper.
My thought would be putting the camera inside the rear glass so it can still give visibility and take advantage of the rear windshield wiper.
- Thread starter
- #31
@residualboulders thank you for the step by step 
Hopefully I will get it ordered today, its a bit of process...
Hopefully I will get it ordered today, its a bit of process...
Have you ever seen photos of this one installed? I have a slightly odd-ball rear bumper, and I have yet to find a relo kit that makes sense. (none of the ARB sales sites have before/after pix or installation diagrams)
DesmoPilot
SILVER Star
I have not personally seen this harness. I used the Kaymar harness.
I do have an ARB harness for the front relocation. However, I have yet to get around to installing it. It requires pulling the pins and installing a different style of plug.
RobW0
GOLD Star
This is the last thing I still need to do for my Dissent rear bumper. Interested to see how everyone is doing it. The Kaymar harness sounds interesting. Might do something with my front camera also. Would need to make some kind of new housing for it however.
- Thread starter
- #36
@residualboulders - Received my Kit today, and so far, have followed what you did, exactly. Hole drilled in the floor the same and everything.. Tomorrow I'll finish it up.
Thank you
FWIW...
Kaymar will ship the relocation kit to the US, it was less than $236.20 AUS ($100aus was for DHL shipping, they do not ship Aus post) - so $153.86 USD..
Funny, I have no problems drilling a hole in my truck, but I do have sever issues with cutting up the wiring harnesses.. to each their own I guess...
glad you got it done! I don’t like cutting harnesses or drilling holes, which is why my Kaymar kit sat on my work bench for months
. But I would rather drill a hole hidden behind a panel that cut into a wiring harness.- Thread starter
- #38
@residualboulders have you finished he mount to the basket yet?
I'm going to try a few places but that may be a winner (I have 2 AT can holders which are just proud of the spare tire.
I'm going to try a few places but that may be a winner (I have 2 AT can holders which are just proud of the spare tire.
@rlynch356 I love that you have a Land Rover overland business but you drive a 200. Mainly because my older brother has 4 Land Rovers. He is always giving me grief about my out of date basic cruisers, and I rib him about his techy rovers that aren't reliable. He just restored a D90 last year and just recently bought a new D110 which I admit is more tech advanced than my 200.
I mounted my camera on the bottom of the Slee basket about 1" out from the face of the spare tire. This seemed to give me the best view. I bent a piece of steel thick enough to be solid. Drilled the same hole pattern on the back as the Kaymar bracket so I could mount the camera. On a wet day I did have some glitching on the camera view. I think I need to seal up the connector from water somehow. Don't really want to use heat shrink because it would make it difficult to remove if I had to - but then I'm not sure why I would.
I mounted my camera on the bottom of the Slee basket about 1" out from the face of the spare tire. This seemed to give me the best view. I bent a piece of steel thick enough to be solid. Drilled the same hole pattern on the back as the Kaymar bracket so I could mount the camera. On a wet day I did have some glitching on the camera view. I think I need to seal up the connector from water somehow. Don't really want to use heat shrink because it would make it difficult to remove if I had to - but then I'm not sure why I would.
- Thread starter
- #40
Thanks for the example - Good to know on the waterproofing as well.
My little side business is mainly for the "Classic" Defender market, Engine ECU chips, and I have a line of Automatic Conversion (and LS swap) kits coming out once they are finished. The New Defender is a possible as well but I just haven't been that interested in it...
I am expanding into The 200 series as well with a Behind rear seat wiring cabinet. that I am waiting on the prototype parts to be bent. That will house ~200ah of lithium, inverter, DC-DC charger, fuses, circuit breakers, 12v plugs, switches, etc.. all in one place to make 12v systems pretty easy and neat.
Been with both Marques for a long time (having owned FJ40 through now the 200) since the early 90's.. My first LC80 build (in 1995 on my 93') was with help of Man-A-Fre using ARB and Kaymar parts)
My little side business is mainly for the "Classic" Defender market, Engine ECU chips, and I have a line of Automatic Conversion (and LS swap) kits coming out once they are finished. The New Defender is a possible as well but I just haven't been that interested in it...
I am expanding into The 200 series as well with a Behind rear seat wiring cabinet. that I am waiting on the prototype parts to be bent. That will house ~200ah of lithium, inverter, DC-DC charger, fuses, circuit breakers, 12v plugs, switches, etc.. all in one place to make 12v systems pretty easy and neat.
Been with both Marques for a long time (having owned FJ40 through now the 200) since the early 90's.. My first LC80 build (in 1995 on my 93') was with help of Man-A-Fre using ARB and Kaymar parts)
