A 200 is meant to have 37’s (1 Viewer)

[tbisaacs]

I think this thread started with some notable LCs on 37s.

Fender trimming is where my mental block is. I think a body lift with some careful offset choices and tweaks could maybe see this work without more drastic fender mods.

Lol same. I keep telling myself that the sheet metal isn’t precious but dang that’s a big step.

 

[nwfl4runner]

I think this thread started with some notable LCs on 37s.

Fender trimming is where my mental block is. I think a body lift with some careful offset choices and tweaks could maybe see this work without more drastic fender mods.

rip that bandaid off - put a 37 at FULL lock and start jacking it up and just destroy everything in your way!!!!! In all seriousness though, I don’t think it’s possible - there’s just so much I cut out

 

[TeCKis300]

Yeah I think the mount is about 1” further out towards the wheel. I feel like it impacted control somewhat. I honestly feel like a slightly stiffer spring up front might help. Though, as always, I’m looking to get zero static lift…

I’ll comment on the traction control since mine acts like it is slipping and traction control kicks in at slow speeds around tight corners/right angle turns. I don’t know if I’ve mentioned this yet. And I assumed it had to do with my tire size but since you mentioned the Tundra swap possibly causing this, I figured I’d mention it. Doesn’t happen every time, and never during spirited driving around pass switchbacks where I do push it a bit, just around town at relatively slow speeds turning a corner.

Thanks, that helps. I assume you guys have zero point cal'd the traction control? It's made a big difference every time I change my suspension.

Gives me food for thought on how far to take things and great to see you guys blaze trail. Sometimes I wonder if 37s are the next step. Or continue to expand what 35s can do for me. Body lift. Long travel. Or modify suspension links move the front axle forward and rear axle aft just a tad. Then which one of these takes things too far and starts compromising the rest of the goodness of the car for everyday use. It's a sickness!

 

[Tex68w]

I might consider 37's and all of the necessary modifications that comes with that jump, but it won't be for some time, maybe a few years down the road. I really wish that one of the major fiberglass fender companies would make some front and rear fenders for these 200's, that would solve a large portion of this issue.

 

[AnyMal]

Im a bit jealous of you LX guys. I so want to go 37s. I’d even spend time trying to find a solution for the LC KDSS. It’s the fender trimming that I can’t bring myself to consider yet.

Stop please. But you’re right… I should do 35s. Lol

 

[AnyMal]

Also, in my mind with 34s ill go to 18s. 285/75r18 / 295/70r18 as the tire choice.

With 35s, ill have to jump to 20s.
35x11.5r20 or 35x12.5r20. Or 285/65r20 but that is a half inch short.

I just don’t know other than that ebay wheel recently who makes a 20 in an acceptable offset to not go into negative scrub with OEM 20s (which I like) and avoid spacers.

I just cant do all that work, buy OEM 20s since I never got them, spend $500 a tire just to put an adapter on.

What yall think? I have choices to make in the next 12-24 months LOL.

 

[MTKID]

Thanks, that helps. I assume you guys have zero point cal'd the traction control? It's made a big difference every time I change my suspension.

Gives me food for thought on how far to take things and great to see you guys blaze trail. Sometimes I wonder if 37s are the next step. Or continue to expand what 35s can do for me. Body lift. Long travel. Or modify suspension links move the front axle forward and rear axle aft just a tad. Then which one of these takes things too far and starts compromising the rest of the goodness of the car for everyday use. It's a sickness!

46” tires might take it too far. You’re good up to that, IMO

…and I’ll have to look into the ZPC. In my mind, I thought that was something on later models than mine, but it looks like it was on 100’s also, so I’ll need to perform it.

 

[bemerritt]

Thanks to this thread and @MTKID ’s build thread, I was able to stuff 37s in. There’s definitely a wealth of knowledge here. Currently I’m on stock AHC with just a sensor lift. No body lift. Trimmed the front fender up about 1.5 inches but it looks like I need to go up another half inch or so. I had the pinch weld flattened and BMC for my 34s on zero offset already. With the 37s, the front driver still rubs the body mount on reverse. I’m adding in spc uca hoping to move the wheel forward properly.

I will also tackle the rear this week. Also have longer bumpstops coming in. This will definitely be a work in progress but I do see light at the end of the tunnel lol.

I wanted to share my progress with you guys and thank you guys for all of the tips!

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Any plans for how to finish the fender after trimming? I too am getting closer and closer to this.

Also, for me, my 35's rub my wheel wells at full bump. I have considered welding in new wheel wells to combat this as I dont want to limit up travel. Any thoughts on this? Thanks for contributing to blazing the 37 trail

 

[Killacaviar]

46” tires might take it too far. You’re good up to that, IMO

…and I’ll have to look into the ZPC. In my mind, I thought that was something on later models than mine, but it looks like it was on 100’s also, so I’ll need to perform it.

That calibration will 100% solve you traction control problem. This used to happen on my lc200 with kings and a tundra swap. A proper alignment and the zero point calibration solved it.

It’s unsettling doing 30-40 offroad around a corner and it kicks in and starts beeping at you

 

[toofrigginswt]

Any plans for how to finish the fender after trimming? I too am getting closer and closer to this.

Also, for me, my 35's rub my wheel wells at full bump. I have considered welding in new wheel wells to combat this as I dont want to limit up travel. Any thoughts on this? Thanks for contributing to blazing the 37 trail

So there’s a Sherwin Williams automotive in my part of town that will provide you with automotive paint in a jar or a spray can if you give them the color code. They provide the paint for many local dealerships and body shops. I was going to get a can, tape and mask off the areas from over spray, and paint the edges that I cut. That way I can prevent any rust. I’m thinking it doesn’t need to be perfect since I will probably cover it with a 1/4 in weatherstrip.

I honestly am really digging the fender cut look. I’ve always thought the front wheel well needed a little more gap to look proportional.

I did do some “gentle” off-roading today after I cut the rear pinch weld. No bump stops yet so I didn’t go crazy. I’m still rubbing on my bumper skin after cutting off about 1.5 inches on the bottom corner. I also noticed the bottom of the AHC reservoir door got pushed back slightly. I think I’ll need to take a heat gun to mold that back a little more as well. Rear tires tuck under the fender with the offset that I have after I folded them.

Front tires seem to tuck as well but then again I just did a light run today to see where my problem areas are. There are two wires/tubes running along the top of the driver fender well and those were knocked off the bracket. I’m assuming the tires hit it.

At its current state, I am not comfortable going fast or “bumping” over any obstacle. Going slow over medium rocks and dirt I can do that all day lol. I think bumpstops will do wonders for me as soon as they arrive.

Tomorrow I will continue to tackle all the problem areas and report back.

 

[linuxgod]

I think this thread started with some notable LCs on 37s.

Fender trimming is where my mental block is. I think a body lift with some careful offset choices and tweaks could maybe see this work without more drastic fender mods.

I think Fat Amy didn't trim fenders. But it seems like that's not realistic to be if you really want everything to clear.

 

[Jason Andrews]

Any plans for how to finish the fender after trimming? I too am getting closer and closer to this.

Also, for me, my 35's rub my wheel wells at full bump. I have considered welding in new wheel wells to combat this as I dont want to limit up travel. Any thoughts on this? Thanks for contributing to blazing the 37 trail

Unpopular opinion on here, but I am a firm believer that travel is travel. Obviously the better balance helps, moreover quality over quantity. Lastly, you have to actually use the travel you have harnessed. No offense no anyone, but I honestly don't understand why anyone considering running big tires would be afraid of limiting up-travel a tiny bit and would instead consider mod'ing the wheel wells or cutting fenders for very minimal amount of travel.

Why not add Timbren AOR which they say don't limit up-travel IIRC when I was calculating I figured they would limit it about .5-.75" IMHO much easier and cheaper to add e&e off road rear shock mount mod which adds 1.75" of down travel to combat the lost up-travel. I guarantee it will have a better feel of bump engagement both in slow crawling, when only one side is at full bump, and hitting big "jumps" at high speeds where both sides fully compress together than if you are still using the OEM bumps.

Also unpopular- Most 12.50width tires TREAD fits inside the outer fender lips with the correct +25mm to+35mm offset. Once the tire goes further into the wheel well is when the wheel width comes into play and the little extra sidewall bulge can impact a fender. Caveat being tires like the KM3 and others with more aggressive sidewall lugs and exactly how far the tire stuffs into the wheel well (when compressing both sides simultaneously only)

 

[dubyahard]

This thread is dangerous. My sheet metal is already scratched and pinstriped and pock-marked so, trimming some, or a lot, doesn't frighten me. I just don't know how to finish it - roll it and paint? What about the fender liners?

Also, 4.88s are already in...

 

[nwfl4runner]

This thread is dangerous. My sheet metal is already scratched and pinstriped and pock-marked so, trimming some, or a lot, doesn't frighten me. I just don't know how to finish it - roll it and paint? What about the fender liners?

Also, 4.88s are already in...

I cut it, painted it, and threw a tiny bit of weatherstripping on it.

 

[AnyMal]

I wouldn’t mind buying a bolt on set of sound dampened widened and deepened metal fender inner moldings. Does such a thing exist or is custom fab the only route?

 

[tbisaacs]

I wouldn’t mind buying a bolt on set of sound dampened widened and deepened metal fender inner moldings. Does such a thing exist or is custom fab the only route?

Lots of options for Wranglers, and I saw someone making some for tacoma but nothing for the 200.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Unpopular opinion on here, but I am a firm believer that travel is travel. Obviously the better balance helps, moreover quality over quantity. Lastly, you have to actually use the travel you have harnessed. No offense no anyone, but I honestly don't understand why anyone considering running big tires would be afraid of limiting up-travel a tiny bit and would instead consider mod'ing the wheel wells or cutting fenders for very minimal amount of travel.

Why not add Timbren AOR which they say don't limit up-travel IIRC when I was calculating I figured they would limit it about .5-.75" IMHO much easier and cheaper to add e&e off road rear shock mount mod which adds 1.75" of down travel to combat the lost up-travel. I guarantee it will have a better feel of bump engagement both in slow crawling, when only one side is at full bump, and hitting big "jumps" at high speeds where both sides fully compress together than if you are still using the OEM bumps.

Also unpopular- Most 12.50width tires TREAD fits inside the outer fender lips with the correct +25mm to+35mm offset. Once the tire goes further into the wheel well is when the wheel width comes into play and the little extra sidewall bulge can impact a fender. Caveat being tires like the KM3 and others with more aggressive sidewall lugs and exactly how far the tire stuffs into the wheel well (when compressing both sides simultaneously only)

I think the issue with limiting travel versus cutting is that you're cutting anyway with 37s (or at least I was). Granted wheel offset/tundra arms are variables in the mix, but I probably took 3" off the front fenders.

 

[AnyMal]

Lots of options for Wranglers, and I saw someone making some for tacoma but nothing for the 200.

okay no problem

 

[turbo8]

Lots of options for Wranglers, and I saw someone making some for tacoma but nothing for the 200

Briefly watched the video, youtuber said those were patent pending, curious what is patentable on those.

 

[AnyMal]

Briefly watched the video, youtuber said those were patent pending, curious what is patentable one those.

Precision rivnut technology