Wits End Turbo Owners (6 Viewers)

[lumbee1]

Ready to go whoever @Tommysosa sells to

View attachment 3139383

Reached out but never heard back from him.

 

[Inonidas]

I reached out 2 weeks ago and didn't hear anything either

 

[discodirt]

I reached out 2 weeks ago and didn't hear anything either

Same here

 

[Corbet]

I finally got going on my install.

 

[ChargedSHOTaco]

Nice.

 

[Greyota]

I wrapped up my turbo install this weekend. Two questions for this group.

1. My best bet for an exhaust shop is about 14 miles away, which is about 30 minutes. Is it a bad idea to drive it there dumping out of the downpipe adapter if I take it slow?

2. One thing I noticed right away after I started the engine was an electrical buzzing in the cab when it's running. Hoping this team can help me troubleshoot. Here are the things I've installed for the Turbo and where I drew power/ground:

1. JRP 14in1
   1. Power from 2 fuse taps in the interior fuse box
      1. The red wire that is fused from JRP is tapped into the 10A Gauge fuse
      2. The orange switched power is tapped into the 7.5A IGN Fuse
   2. Ground from the common ground in the driver's kick panel
2. Spartan 2 Wideband
   1. Power from the 7.5A Charge fuse in the fuse box under the hood (provides power when alternator is running)
   2. Ground for the heater from the common ground next to the charcoal canister on the fender that grounds to the block
   3. Ground for the sensor is the same ground as the JRP 14n1 in the driver's kick panel
3. Oil Temp Sensor, Boost Sensor
   1. Neither needed power or ground and they plug directly into JRP controller

I did install the JRP ahead of the turbo install and drove it a bit, and I don't recall the buzzing then which makes me think it's something to do with the Spartan 2. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[CJK]

1. No, I don’t think it would be an issue in the short-term. I drove for about a week without connecting to the cats and muffler. The risk of running without restriction is that the boost will build faster than the stock ECU can compensate for the boost. Don’t smash the skinny pedal and build the boost too quick.

2. Not sure. Is it a steady whine or does it change as rpm’s change?

I’d be inclined to guess you accidentally left something disconnected or knocked during install.
Retrace all your steps and double-check all the connections around install area. If nothing stands out, try disconnecting the gauge and sensor. They are only displaying values, so no harm to run the engine without them.

 

[Greyota]

1. No, I don’t think it would be an issue in the short-term. I drove for about a week without connecting to the cats and muffler. The risk of running without restriction is that the boost will build faster than the stock ECU can compensate for the boost. Don’t smash the skinny pedal and build the boost too quick.

2. Not sure. Is it a steady whine or does it change as rpm’s change?

I’d be inclined to guess you accidentally left something disconnected or knocked during install.
Retrace all your steps and double-check all the connections around install area. If nothing stands out, try disconnecting the gauge and sensor. They are only displaying values, so no harm to run the engine without them.

Thanks for the notes, I appreciate it.

Since it's ok to drive around as is (it's been parked for a few days), I'll have to drive it a bit more to tell whether the whine changes with RPM's. My first impression was that it did not. I'll start unplugging things and see what happens.

 

[Greyota]

Today was the first day that I was able to put a few miles on the Cruiser after the turbo installation since I had to drive it to the muffler shop. I put about 30 miles on it.

I need some troubleshooting help with my Boost sensor/gauge. I sent JRP an email, but while I was waiting for Dave to respond I thought I'd check here as well.

The Boost sensor that comes with the JRP kit has a barbed fitting on it, so I had to install a barbed adapter into the Wits' End vacuum tree along with a short run of vacuum tubing into the JRP Boost sensor.

All that seemed fine, however, my Boost gauge doesn't change from -14.5psi at any speed all the way up to 65-70. Is there a setting that I missed? Does that need to be calibrated?

The attached picture shows my setup. The red arrows show the 2 connection points.

 

[CJK]

Today was the first day that I was able to put a few miles on the Cruiser after the turbo installation since I had to drive it to the muffler shop. I put about 30 miles on it.

I need some troubleshooting help with my Boost sensor/gauge. I sent JRP an email, but while I was waiting for Dave to respond I thought I'd check here as well.

The Boost sensor that comes with the JRP kit has a barbed fitting on it, so I had to install a barbed adapter into the Wits' End vacuum tree along with a short run of vacuum tubing into the JRP Boost sensor.

All that seemed fine, however, my Boost gauge doesn't change from -14.5psi at any speed all the way up to 65-70. Is there a setting that I missed? Does that need to be calibrated?

The attached picture shows my setup. The red arrows show the 2 connection points.

View attachment 3155525

I hooked my boost sensor inline with the EWG, so I don’t see any issues there.

Yes, you will need to calibrate the sensor if it’s not reading 0.0 when the engine is off.

Side note: my EGR hoses popped off from the boost pressure, and the inline T to boost sensor did too. I crimped on Oetiker Clamps (ear clamps) and they’ve held perfectly since. Remember that these vacuum lines will see up to 7ish PSI

 

[Greyota]

I hooked my boost sensor inline with the EWG, so I don’t see any issues there.

Yes, you will need to calibrate the sensor if it’s not reading 0.0 when the engine is off.

View attachment 3155540


Side note: my EGR hoses popped off from the boost pressure, and the inline T to boost sensor did too. I crimped on Oetiker Clamps (ear clamps) and they’ve held perfectly since. Remember that these vacuum lines will see up to 7ish PSI

Something must be going on with my sensor. I just tried that calibration technique and the single beep I'm supposed to get in step #4, I'm not getting. There is definitely vacuum being pulled there, as when I started it I pulled that line off to check and can hear/feel it. I'll wait and see what JRP says.

 

[alia176]

Sorry about this dumb suggestion but did you remember to put both springs inside the waste gate?

 

[bwakeling]

not sure if it would make a difference but it wouldnt be too tough to turn each of those fittings in too far and have them be contacting each other and blocking the air / pressure. dunno...

 

[Greyota]

Sorry about this dumb suggestion but did you remember to put both springs inside the waist gate?

Definitely not a dumb suggestion, I actually caught this on my final check of everything before I started it up for the first time and I did in fact forget at that point.

not sure if it would make a difference but it wouldnt be too tough to turn each of those fittings in too far and have them be contacting each other and blocking the air / pressure. dunno...

That's probably true, but when I pull the vacuum hose off when it's running, there is vacuum being pulled there as I can hear and feel it when I plug it with my finger.

 

[Wompom]

Definitely not a dumb suggestion, I actually caught this on my final check of everything before I started it up for the first time and I did in fact forget at that point.


That's probably true, but when I pull the vacuum hose off when it's running, there is vacuum being pulled there as I can hear and feel it when I plug it with my finger.

Check the sensor harness itself. Mine didn't seat well initially. Also where it goes into the module, those plugs were not the best.

 

[Wompom]

Earlier this summer on a super hot day the cruiser fumble idled and died. The newish o2 sensor threw a too rich code. I figured the o2 failed or the MAF was dirty from a dusty trip. monitoring the wideband everything was close enough. Doing maintenance today before I drive to Montana next week and decided to clean the MAF.
Pulled the plug and just happened to check my MAF wires and found this.

The other two had a little bit of messed up insulation. The whole harness near the turbo is wrapped in heat wrap. I replaced the entire engine harness when I rebuilt the motor in 2019. I think the angle of it bending in the turbo u maybe had it rub somehow on the clamp across from it.
Wrapped the wires up for now with tape and it’s running better than it has in a long time. Immediate boost and smooth idle. Forgot how good it is when it’s gooood. Might make a new bracket to rotate the MAF 180*.
Anyone know if there is a replacement MAF plug with pigtails?

 

[Corbet]

I've got the same concern after finishing my install this weekend. I tried to give that harness as much space as possible but thought the same thing. How do we clock the MAF housing to get the harness plug to face outboard? It would also make for a cleaner path for the harness itself to stay away from the heat.

 

[Wompom]

I've got the same concern after finishing my install this weekend. I tried to give that harness as much space as possible but thought the same thing. How do we clock the MAF housing to get the harness plug to face outboard? It would also make for a cleaner path for the harness itself to stay away from the heat.

All it’d need is a simple sheet metal bracket. I might mock one up then cut it on my plasma table.

 

[Corbet]

Correct, I just haven't had the time yet to attempt anything on my end. If you cut one please make more, I don't have that kind of toy.

 

[NLXTACY]

Earlier this summer on a super hot day the cruiser fumble idled and died. The newish o2 sensor threw a too rich code. I figured the o2 failed or the MAF was dirty from a dusty trip. monitoring the wideband everything was close enough. Doing maintenance today before I drive to Montana next week and decided to clean the MAF.
Pulled the plug and just happened to check my MAF wires and found this.

View attachment 3167339

The other two had a little bit of messed up insulation. The whole harness near the turbo is wrapped in heat wrap. I replaced the entire engine harness when I rebuilt the motor in 2019. I think the angle of it bending in the turbo u maybe had it rub somehow on the clamp across from it.
Wrapped the wires up for now with tape and it’s running better than it has in a long time. Immediate boost and smooth idle. Forgot how good it is when it’s gooood. Might make a new bracket to rotate the MAF 180*.
Anyone know if there is a replacement MAF plug with pigtails?
View attachment 3167351

Earlier this summer on a super hot day the cruiser fumble idled and died. The newish o2 sensor threw a too rich code. I figured the o2 failed or the MAF was dirty from a dusty trip. monitoring the wideband everything was close enough. Doing maintenance today before I drive to Montana next week and decided to clean the MAF.
Pulled the plug and just happened to check my MAF wires and found this.

View attachment 3167339

The other two had a little bit of messed up insulation. The whole harness near the turbo is wrapped in heat wrap. I replaced the entire engine harness when I rebuilt the motor in 2019. I think the angle of it bending in the turbo u maybe had it rub somehow on the clamp across from it.
Wrapped the wires up for now with tape and it’s running better than it has in a long time. Immediate boost and smooth idle. Forgot how good it is when it’s gooood. Might make a new bracket to rotate the MAF 180*.
Anyone know if there is a replacement MAF plug with pigtails?
View attachment 3167351

Yes and eventually I’ll add to the site