Steering Stabilizer. Which one is King ? (2 Viewers)

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Switched from an old OME (no idea when PO put it on but it felt equal both ways so I guess it was still OK?) to the new Dobinson's Adjustable Steering Damper/Stabilizer (thanks to @Delta VS ). To those who say a damper makes no difference, you should try an adjustable damper! Sure you might not need one to make it down the road but you also don't need running hot water in your house--both just make life so much better!

At the tightest setting my steering wheel essentially doesn't move at all at high speed on washboard and wander on the highway is very significantly reduced. On the loosest setting it equaled my OME in slow compression strength (15lbs to push down on a scale), tightest setting is 23lbs so 50% tighter. This doesn't relate to dynamic performance at all, but is interesting. At >50% tightness it does reduce auto-return of the steering wheel around corners which takes some getting used to but I don't do a lot of town driving so it hasn't been a bother. I haven't found a desire to turn it down to <50% because I just love the stiffer steering, but it's super quick/easy to adjust down if necessary. The Dobinson's promo video has a low/high steering wheel movement shot and it is entirely accurate, driving on dirt at high speed is much more enjoyable and I feel more in control because the wheel doesn't move for "no reason", ever. The biggest surprise on road was the lack of steering wheel movement caused by bumps around corners at speed which makes a much more stable experience, the wheel used to move requiring correction and therefore a bit of rig movement in general.

As for options on the best damper: King isn't an IPF damper so if you're worried about fade it's not a good option, especially at its price point I certainly wouldn't go with a non-IPF damper. The three generic Fox IPF damper options unfortunately aren't quite the proper extended/compressed range for an 80 series so they just don't work. And these are non-adjustable which, now that I have one, I wouldn't bother spending more than $100 without the capability. I think the Tough Dog adjustable is probably the best value direct-fit adjustable damper, but I'm pretty sure it's not IPF so of course it's cheaper. The Dobinson's adjustable stabilizer is ridiculously expensive but the improvement in driving experience on a 6" lift with 37s is incredibly noteworthy and very worth the money IMO.
I'm considering these to replace my yellow OMEs which have been on my 80 for at least 50K miles now.


I'm reading Dobinson instructions, but I'm not clear how the steering stiffness adjustments are made.

Screen Shot 2022-05-08 at 5.15.33 PM.png

  • Is turning the screw righty-tighty stiffening it up and lefty-loosey the opposite?
  • What setting would you recommend for a daily driven 80 on 37s?
  • Could this damper potentially put undue stress on the factory steering system including the frame where there's been some evidence of cracks forming nearing the power steering box?
Thanks.
 
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I'm considering these to replace my yellow OMEs which have been on my 80 for at least 50K miles now.


I'm reading Dobinson instructions, but I'm not clear how the steering stiffness adjustments are made.

View attachment 3003768
  • Is turning the screw righty-tighty stiffening it up and lefty-loosey the opposite?
  • What setting would you recommend for a daily driven 80 on 37s?
  • Could this damper potentially put undue stress on the factory steering system including the frame where there's been some evidence of cracks forming nearing the power steering box?
Thanks.
Right tightens, I think there are 12 clicks. I usually run at 6 for DD, I took it down to 1 recently for gnarly 4x4 and definitely noticed it (negatively) at highway speeds.... Tracks much better with far less effort/concentration at 6. On intense desert washboards at 50mph, 12 is simply amazing.

My frame was cracked and I fixed it, but I just took my box off and everything looked good a year in with the damper. I suspect cracking is largely driven by fatigue from panhard loads so not sure if the damper would make a noticable difference?

I started leaking PS fluid out of the reservoir. Added a cooler, didn't help. Could have simply been a bad seal on the top to body part? Hard to tell because I sealed that, put in a new PS pump (cavitation?), and swapped to ISO 32 from ATF all at the same time and at least one of those worked great to make that leak go away! 😋

Edit to add: I remember there being something sightly goofy about the swap from OME in my rig, the nut or stud in the plate on the LH side maybe? Can't remember exactly, sorry. One minor PITA with this is that the reservoir is close to the steering linkage so you need to pop off the damper to screw with the linkage in any way. This is all to say that overall it wasn't a 15 minute install like I anticipated.
 
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I’m really confused on how Dobinsons thought teal would be a hit. At least it’s better than the Ironman green. Colored springs annoy me like a huge wing on a civic.
They want it to stand out, brand recognition, "Hey, look at me!" Others do that too. And I can see it from a branding perspective. But me, I want the opposite; I don't WANT it to stand out, because that also says "Hey, steal me!" Also--pretty much ANY color but black or maybe dark gray makes it look like a circus. I would strip the damned things and redo it all in black. Every time. YMMV.
 
Right tightens, I think there are 12 clicks. I usually run at 6 for DD, I took it down to 1 recently for gnarly 4x4 and definitely noticed it (negatively) at highway speeds.... Tracks much better with far less effort/concentration at 6. On intense desert washboards at 50mph, 12 is simply amazing.

My frame was cracked and I fixed it, but I just took my box off and everything looked good a year in with the damper. I suspect cracking is largely driven by fatigue from panhard loads so not sure if the damper would make a noticable difference?

I started leaking PS fluid out of the reservoir. Added a cooler, didn't help. Could have simply been a bad seal on the top to body part? Hard to tell because I sealed that, put in a new PS pump (cavitation?), and swapped to ISO 32 from ATF all at the same time and at least one of those worked great to make that leak go away! 😋

Edit to add: I remember there being something sightly goofy about the swap from OME in my rig, the nut or stud in the plate on the LH side maybe? Can't remember exactly, sorry. One minor PITA with this is that the reservoir is close to the steering linkage so you need to pop off the damper to screw with the linkage in any way. This is all to say that overall it wasn't a 15 minute install like I anticipated.
Very helpful to have some real world experience. I just ordered it from Delta. Cool to know that simple screw actually has a clicking action. I'll start off at 6 and see how it goes.

Thanks again, je!

Edit: I noticed on this 80 found on YouTube, the reservoir is placed well clear of the linkage in front of the shock which I think is a better location for those not rock crawling, but perhaps susceptible to hwy debris. The Dob instructions has the res behind the shock close to the linkage which may make for a trickier install.

Screen Shot 2022-05-08 at 7.05.49 PM.png
 
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Very helpful to have some real world experience. I just ordered it from Delta. Cool to know that simple screw actually has a clicking action. I'll start off at 6 and see how it goes.

Thanks again, je!

Edit: I noticed on this 80 found on YouTube, the reservoir is placed well clear of the linkage in front of the shock which I think is a better location for those not rock crawling, but perhaps susceptible to hwy debris. The Dob instructions has the res behind the shock close to the linkage which may make for a trickier install.
I had a poorly mounted beadlock on the front and turned mine way up and it made a huge improvement on the steering until I could pull the wheel off and adjust. Since then I backed it way off but do like the steering a little stiffer. Backed it off even more when going hydro boosted brakes.
I also mounted with the reservoir to the rear. I don't recall why but actually think it fit better and don't see much highway use. The ability to adjust in my case has made it well worth the purchase. Very happy so far, especially how it helps with the heavy 37's.
 
I had a poorly mounted beadlock on the front and turned mine way up and it made a huge improvement on the steering until I could pull the wheel off and adjust. Since then I backed it way off but do like the steering a little stiffer. Backed it off even more when going hydro boosted brakes.
I also mounted with the reservoir to the rear. I don't recall why but actually think it fit better and don't see much highway use. The ability to adjust in my case has made it well worth the purchase. Very happy so far, especially how it helps with the heavy 37's.
Thanks, otr.

Some say a steering damper is worthless and run without. Others say choose the cheapest one as it makes nary a difference. Those who've run the fanciest damper say money well spent.

I'm just looking to further fine tune my ride on 37s by getting rid of any old suspension components with the last shock remnant being the yellow OME steering damper that the PO installed. My suspension is pretty dialed in with new BP-51s, 4 degree caster, dead straight and smooth at 80mph, etc so I'm hoping this final piece of kit will incrementally improve ride dynamics. I'll set it at 6 and go from there.

It looks like @Delta VS is shipping my Dobinsons damper this week. 👊

P.S. Found this video to be pretty useful with Fox's third option being similar to the Dobinson's shock.

 
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Thanks, otr.

Some say a steering damper is worthless and run without. Others say choose the cheapest one as it makes nary a difference. Those who've run the fanciest damper say money well spent.

I'm just looking to further fine tune my ride on 37s by getting rid of any old suspension components with the last shock remnant being the yellow OME steering damper that the PO installed. My suspension is pretty dialed in with new BP-51s, 4 degree caster, dead straight and smooth at 80mph, etc so I'm hoping this final piece of kit will incrementally improve ride dynamics. I'll set it at 6 and go from there.

It looks like @Delta VS is shipping my Dobinsons damper this week. 👊

P.S. Found this video to be pretty useful with Fox's third option being similar to the Dobinson's shock.
I forgot to mention, huge difference with potholes and ruts also, probably one of the biggest game changers but I'm way heavy at about 140lbs a corner. The unbalanced wheel was just a temporary thing. I haven't got it offroad yet since installing but imagine if i needed to I could turn it all the way down and help the steering pump at low rpm's if an issue. Cant imagine you would want it all the way up unless high speed desert racing or bashing the rocks.
 
Landed. Hoping to install tomorrow.

Beefy this, but the shaft is vulnerable to road debris. Adjusting screw has a nice click to it.

View attachment 3007117
Waiting for your feedback. It looks awesome 😎. Not a real need right now for me, but still looking to purchase soon.
 
Out with old, in with new.

8E5D4111-9414-490D-AC6B-D4D5E612DD92.jpeg

  • I set it at 6 (12 adjustment detents)
  • No dead spots or looseness throughout the steering motion left and right; consistent effort & feel
  • Steering feel is one of plushness. The vibration and harshness now damped so your hands and arms are absorbing less of the wheel twitchiness that occurs esp when driving at speed on poorly maintained freeways which are pretty much the standard in LA’s seismic jungle.
  • Steering wheel return to center after turns is a smidge slower (nonfactor; adjustable)
I’m glad I refreshed my tired OMEs with the Dobinson damper. I can only imagine how much more you can get out of them when driving at speed off road. The adjusting screw is readily accessible.

There’s no way I’d recommend not running a steering damper now that I know what it’s like going old to new. With that said, it’s one slice of your overall 80 suspension pie so keep it all fresh and tidy.

I hope this helps! Big ups to @jellis + @on the rocks for their input.
 
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Installed mine this morning. Drove about 50 miles on it, 9-ish of which were dirt roads. Also installed a new drag link and rod ends. My old Ironman damper was shot. One direction it moved freely about an inch before any resistance. Other direction was OK.

Overall my steering is way better. More precise. I drove some at 6,8,12 clicks. Didn’t notice a ton of difference other than speed at which it returned to center. 40+ on washboard very little steering wheel movement. If I dropped a wheel off the paved road shoulder at speed I didn’t get much wheel movement even with a couple inch drop into the gravel/dirt. Returning back up again no drama at 40+.

Didn’t exceed 55MPH. Nowhere really to do that around here without getting on the HWY and leaving town. Which I have no cause to do for some time in my Cruiser. I don’t have any wheeling trips planned until later in the summer.

I really can’t say yet if the added cost is worth it. Need more time to know. The parts I removed were all worked, rod ends especially. So just new stuff is contributing greatly to my better steering.

I don’t like the exposed shafts. We’ll see how those look in years to come. I added a stylish decal. 3 different options were included in the box.

I guess I should probably mention my truck is on 37’s with a 4” lift.

Pic or it didn’t happen right?

9A8AAF4B-00B8-4D0C-BDD8-4C87C85C38AC.jpeg


Adjustment screw pointed downward at steering box end. Access is simple

07C46312-A443-4999-9124-E1129B7E6B66.jpeg
 
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Installed mine this morning. Drove about 50 miles on it, 9-ish of which were dirt roads. Also installed a new drag link and rod ends. My old Ironman damper was shot. One direction it moved freely about an inch before any resistance. Other direction was OK.

Overall my steering is way better. More precise. I drove some at 6,8,12 clicks. Didn’t notice a ton of difference other than speed at which it returned to center. 40+ on washboard very little steering wheel movement. If I dropped a wheel off the paved road shoulder at speed I didn’t get much wheel movement even with a couple inch drop into the gravel/dirt. Returning back up again no drama at 40+.

Didn’t exceed 55MPH. Nowhere really to do that around here without getting on the HWY and leaving town. Which I have no cause to do for some time in my Cruiser. I don’t have any wheeling trips planned until later in the summer.

I really can’t say yet if the added cost is worth it. Need more time to know. The parts I removed were all worked, rod ends especially. So just new stuff is contributing greatly to my better steering.

I don’t like the exposed shafts. We’ll see how those look in years to come. I added a stylish decal. 3 different options were included in the box.

I guess I should probably mention my truck is on 37’s with a 4” lift.

Pic or it didn’t happen right?

View attachment 3010644

Adjustment screw pointed downward at steering box end. Access is simple

View attachment 3010645
What if you put a shock boot over the exposed shaft? I put shock boots on my Fox 2.0 shocks for protection with rocks kicking around.
 
What if you put a shock boot over the exposed shaft? I put shock boots on my Fox 2.0 shocks for protection with rocks kicking around.

I could try to find one for the drivers side but not sure how I’d set up the passenger with only one end to secure to the body. I’m just going to run as is and see.
 
I could try to find one for the drivers side but not sure how I’d set up the passenger with only one end to secure to the body. I’m just going to run as is and see.
Yeah I was only referring to the driver's side.
 
OK, have a couple hundred miles on it now. Ran up to Silverton today for work and managed to sneak in some light wheeling.

About 20 miles of dirt today. Mostly graded roads but some light wheeling. It would appear that I get less steering wheel kickback on the trail. Is it vastly better than a standard unit? I don’t know, nothing to compare to. It’s definitely better than it was. I can see after a couple days of trail where the driver would have less fatigue.

I still don’t see much difference on the road. With loose rod ends and a old blown damper my truck was still easy to handle with one finger at 80 MPH. If anyone is seeing a night day difference on the HWY I suspect this thing is masking some other issue. Today I had 1000+ lbs of cargo going up and empty coming back down. Speeds up to 70. Nothing felt special on the road.

Overall I’m happy with the purchase. Is it the best $500 I’ve ever spent, no. I’d recommend if for an overland type build. If you want a rock crawler spend the money on hydro assist or other.
 
Why not go with a new factory OEM one? It's lasted this long.

You beat me to it.

I still have OE unit at 26+ years, fair comment the vehicle has not been used much during the pandemic and not at all since brain surgery in September last year, but at 284,450 miles and no issues, hard to beat IMO.

Regards

Dave
 

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