Builds The "Red Rocket" Troopy (3 Viewers)

[theglobb]

From a more mechanical standpoint, I was driving back to Boone after this weekend and noticed my boost had dropped quite a bit. Where it should've been at 16-18psi it was pushing about 8-10. Pulled over, looked for a boost leak that would be obvious and then boom... exhaust manifold cracked right along the weld, started up the engine and sure enough, I could feel quite a bit of exhaust gasses being pushed out of that crack. Limped it to Boone and then put some high heat JB Weld all over the crack and hope that it will hold long enough for me to make it home in 3 weeks. Also while I was checking out my boost leak I realized that my passenger side knuckle was leaking out that grease/gear oil soup mix... dang I fixed that 55,000 km (34,000 miles) ago. I guess that axle seal has gone bad already and with that in mind I think my axle may be misaligned with those shims that are used when you rebuild a front knuckle, I know there is a special tool for the job but I'm pretty certain I don't have the spare money to purchase it, if someone knows how to track down one of those tools, know where to purchase one, or even have one and would be willing to let me borrow it please let me know! I have heard quite a bit of stories of people doing the right thing and sending tools to other mud members, just to never get them back so I totally understand if no one feels comfortable with it.

Can you bottle that as a cocktail and send it to Putins inner circle?

Preferably, seeing the atrocities that are and have been committed there for the past 45 days or so is heartbreaking, would be an absolute pleasure to splatter man o war entrails all over Putin and his inner circle

Captain crack sparrow

Very appropriately named, gotta make some light of a pretty scary situation.

That Isuzu trooper looks pretty decent for a beater from an external cosmetic viewpoint.

You are very correct, it does have about 350,000 miles on it, and my friend has put around $500 or so into it for the entire brake system, a new carb, and various other things. But cosmetically it isn't too bad, a dent here and there, the rockers are pretty much rusted out but not much more is. His plans for the future are to eventually replace the head gasket when he has more time, and just fix all of the smaller issues with it aswell, then maybe put in an aussie/detriot locker, a bit of a lift, etc etc. I think y'all will definitely see it again on this thread.

A photo of a BJ70 we were wheeling with and a REALLLY nice troopy.

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

Nice that a Isuzu Trooper joined your battle group: a honest japanese fighter...

 

[robmobile73]

From a more mechanical standpoint, I was driving back to Boone after this weekend and noticed my boost had dropped quite a bit. Where it should've been at 16-18psi it was pushing about 8-10. Pulled over, looked for a boost leak that would be obvious and then boom... exhaust manifold cracked right along the weld, started up the engine and sure enough, I could feel quite a bit of exhaust gasses being pushed out of that crack. Limped it to Boone and then put some high heat JB Weld all over the crack and hope that it will hold long enough for me to make it home in 3 weeks. Also while I was checking out my boost leak I realized that my passenger side knuckle was leaking out that grease/gear oil soup mix... dang I fixed that 55,000 km (34,000 miles) ago. I guess that axle seal has gone bad already and with that in mind I think my axle may be misaligned with those shims that are used when you rebuild a front knuckle, I know there is a special tool for the job but I'm pretty certain I don't have the spare money to purchase it, if someone knows how to track down one of those tools, know where to purchase one, or even have one and would be willing to let me borrow it please let me know! I have heard quite a bit of stories of people doing the right thing and sending tools to other mud members, just to never get them back so I totally understand if no one feels comfortable with it.

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Preferably, seeing the atrocities that are and have been committed there for the past 45 days or so is heartbreaking, would be an absolute pleasure to splatter man o war entrails all over Putin and his inner circle

Very appropriately named, gotta make some light of a pretty scary situation.

You are very correct, it does have about 350,000 miles on it, and my friend has put around $500 or so into it for the entire brake system, a new carb, and various other things. But cosmetically it isn't too bad, a dent here and there, the rockers are pretty much rusted out but not much more is. His plans for the future are to eventually replace the head gasket when he has more time, and just fix all of the smaller issues with it aswell, then maybe put in an aussie/detriot locker, a bit of a lift, etc etc. I think y'all will definitely see it again on this thread.

A photo of a BJ70 we were wheeling with and a REALLLY nice troopy.
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Don't let those repairs worry you much. Neither one of them is going to immediately cause damage. If you remove the manifold and bring it to the right shop and approach it the right way I'd think you can find someone to weld a new bead on those cracks for maybe $20. If you feel really adventurous you can use jumper cables and vice grips and stick weld it with your batteries. If you inquire about getting it welded tell people its a "welded steel exhaust manifold" otherwise people will assume it is cast and a more difficult/special repair...........................On the knuckle just add grease periodically till your ready to fix it.

Request some extra donations from your friends for the DD shuttle or their preferred shuttle may be out of action, I'd bet 2 weekends of that would cover your repairs.

Your tires should have a wear indicator bars that once the tread wears to that point they are worn to the point that the manufacturer recomends replacement.........in absolute certainty, if they are worn down to the point the cords are showing you are nearing a blowout/failure. A decent expectation of how many miles you have left on your tread is 2500miles per 1/32" inch of tread(of course this may vary). If you're tight on money (and tires seem to be $220+ each right now for 33"s) tirecappers has a variety of retreads $120-140.

 

[reddog90]

This concerned me at first, but then I saw the guy with the knife was wearing crocs. Now I know why you weren't worried. I don't think you can intimidate people if you wear crocs. Crocs and knifes sort of cancel each other out.

Crocs are legit once you engage the AWD strap.

 

[theglobb]

Back from college and will be at the beach for the summer. Need to replace my front passenger inner axle seal as its pissing gear oil out everywhere, get some sort of radiator hooked up to help with cooling the troopy at altitude and heat, recoring the OEM radiator was priced at $900 which I cant justify spending that much money on when most radiators are much cheaper out there, just gotta find one compatible with the 3B. Also need to get some new tires... current ones are pretty much bald on the outer rim, KO2's have served me great but I think I will be going with some Kenda Klever 33x10.5x17 next, don't fully know yet. Time to get a job, enjoy my summer, and keep this rig running well!

Yep... Definitely time for tires

Also 1 year ago today I installed the $50 junkyard turbo on the troopy. Man that has to be one of the most useful $50 I have ever spent. I've put like 45,000kms on it pushing 16-17lbs of boost and it hasn't shown any major signs of faluire yet. The shaft does have quite a bit more play in it, but just how it goes.

Also got that massive exhaust leak fixed right before I left to go back home. My turbo literally fell off of the manifold when I unbolted the downpipe, the exhaust system was the only thing holding it on... wow. I'm surprised it was even transferring 6lbs of boost at that point!

 

[robmobile73]

On eBay now you can get China imports for $300. These actually appear to have correct mounting points. If you search eBay and Ali express you can find a radiator the same size and correct hose neck location and but must fab your own mounts and will have a second cap instead of just 1 on the thermostat housing for less than $200.....Some people say you can't trust the made in China radiator, but mine for $140 hs been doing fine for 2 years. Aluminum Radiator For 1984-1989 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER BJ70/BJ71/BJ73/BJ74/BJ75 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/234423113672?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dnnm8d3ltxq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=UewTzSuJRcW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY.
Walmart has some AT tires from Indonesia "dextero" that I will put on my tundra 265 70 17 for $130 each. Might have a size for your LC .

 

[LDowney]

Back from college and will be at the beach for the summer. Need to replace my front passenger inner axle seal as its pissing gear oil out everywhere, get some sort of radiator hooked up to help with cooling the troopy at altitude and heat, recoring the OEM radiator was priced at $900 which I cant justify spending that much money on when most radiators are much cheaper out there, just gotta find one compatible with the 3B. Also need to get some new tires... current ones are pretty much bald on the outer rim, KO2's have served me great but I think I will be going with some Kenda Klever 33x10.5x17 next, don't fully know yet. Time to get a job, enjoy my summer, and keep this rig running well!

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Yep... Definitely time for tires
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Also 1 year ago today I installed the $50 junkyard turbo on the troopy. Man that has to be one of the most useful $50 I have ever spent. I've put like 45,000kms on it pushing 16-17lbs of boost and it hasn't shown any major signs of faluire yet. The shaft does have quite a bit more play in it, but just how it goes.
View attachment 3009378

Also got that massive exhaust leak fixed right before I left to go back home. My turbo literally fell off of the manifold when I unbolted the downpipe, the exhaust system was the only thing holding it on... wow. I'm surprised it was even transferring 6lbs of boost at that point!
View attachment 3009384

If your upper and lower tanks are good, re-coring would be the repair route that the path that I would go with. It might not be as cheap as other options, but retaining an exact OEM fit with a new core / quality workmanship that is backed with warranty support is important.
Good luck

 

[lacalvette]

My rad was re-core 3 row with something like 25% more surface 800$ cad (preCovid).
I did make a center tool myself and check both my 75 and 60 diff, they were set the same. The bottom shim are for centering, top for bearings preload. Adjustment is only necessary if the knuckle have been change or someone tossed the lower shims ??

The spindle bushing may give the seal a hard time if worn too much too

Edit: forgot to mention shaft seal surface condition…I ‘ve seen a 60 shaft with a deep groove, no wonder why it what leaking…

 

[theglobb]

hmmmmmm... never seen this much gear oil dumped out all at once from a fully assembled birf. I pulled up to my friend's house, parked in his driveway and 30 minutes later I look under my car and see this pretty sizeable puddle of it. It hasn't done this anywhere else, before or after this has happened, weird. My inner wheel well is now filled with grease now too, I've never seen any of our cruisers leaking this bad when every single one has needed a knuckle rebuild when purchased. What scares me is how quickly this went from having a bit of a leak to actually pissing out as well as the fact that I did the knuckle job in November of 2020, it's only been like a year and a half, weird.

On eBay now you can get China imports for $300. These actually appear to have correct mounting points. If you search eBay and Ali express you can find a radiator the same size and correct hose neck location and but must fab your own mounts and will have a second cap instead of just 1 on the thermostat housing for less than $200.....Some people say you can't trust the made in China radiator, but mine for $140 hs been doing fine for 2 years. Aluminum Radiator For 1984-1989 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER BJ70/BJ71/BJ73/BJ74/BJ75 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/234423113672?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dnnm8d3ltxq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=UewTzSuJRcW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY.
Walmart has some AT tires from Indonesia "dextero" that I will put on my tundra 265 70 17 for $130 each. Might have a size for your LC .

I've looked at these before, just major stuff like cooling system parts always scare me a bit when coming from china or ebay in general. I'll take a look at the dextero's. My dad and I are thinking about getting some tire recappers like you are running for our 40, will rarely go over 50mph.

If your upper and lower tanks are good, re-coring would be the repair route that the path that I would go with. It might not be as cheap as other options, but retaining an exact OEM fit with a new core / quality workmanship that is backed with warranty support is important.
Good luck

Yes, this is the eternal battle going on in my head right now haha. I want to go the pricey route just for peace of mind but my funds are a bit short for spending up to a grand on something I could get for a third of the price. I'm also saving up for a trip to Montana with my friends in the troopy and with gas prices more than doubling since last time, I'm gonna need every bit of money I can get.

My rad was re-core 3 row with something like 25% more surface 800$ cad (preCovid).
I did make a center tool myself and check both my 75 and 60 diff, they were set the same. The bottom shim are for centering, top for bearings preload. Adjustment is only necessary if the knuckle have been change or someone tossed the lower shims ??

The spindle bushing may give the seal a hard time if worn too much too

Edit: forgot to mention shaft seal surface condition…I ‘ve seen a 60 shaft with a deep groove, no wonder why it what leaking…

Thanks for the info good to know. I'll look into the spindle bushing along with the condition of the shaft seal. Really hoping I can just put in a heavy duty marlin crawler seal in and see if that holds for a while, aswell as recentering the axle.

 

[FJBen]

@theglobb that seal completely went. I would get on replacing that ASAP. Throw the Marlin Crawler seal in and you should be good.

 

[Broski]

I would go OEM seal and make sure the axle vent is not plugged up.

 

[theglobb]

@theglobb that seal completely went. I would get on replacing that ASAP. Throw the Marlin Crawler seal in and you should be good.

figured, thanks for the input haha

I would go OEM seal and make sure the axle vent is not plugged up.

Any reason for OEM seal instead of marlin crawler? I just did a quick search and read that 80's don't like the marlin seals due to something in the AWD system, but everyone else with part-time 4wd cruisers say they are great. Appreciate the axle vent suggestion, would have never thought of that.

 

[cruiserdan]

Check the trunnion caps. Something may have come loose.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Check the breather too. my fj80 breather was soo gummed up with dirt it pushed gear oil through my pinion seal. I don't know if it would push through the birfs that way though.

 

[Broski]

figured, thanks for the input haha

Any reason for OEM seal instead of marlin crawler? I just did a quick search and read that 80's don't like the marlin seals due to something in the AWD system, but everyone else with part-time 4wd cruisers say they are great. Appreciate the axle vent suggestion, would have never thought of that.

So I guess as long as nothing is moving the Marlin seals works great

Seriously though when I first got the 80 I did a full front axle rebuild using a marlin kit with his HD seal. It's a trail reg that gets towed to the trail, within the first 300 miles the seal failed. I replaced it with a OEM and have not had a issue sense, that was 6 years ago.

The axle and seal is no different on a full time 80 series the any other Toyota axle other then size.

Just like a rear seal, the front seal should be able to hold up to full time use. If you forget to unlock your hubs and jump on the road do you want the seal to fail ?

Like many I just prefer OEM

 

[theglobb]

Found a good deal on some 33x9.5xR15 for our FJ40 that was in need of some tires. $178 a tire with 2-day free shipping, when the retreads we were looking at were $135 +shipping. Walmart deal of the century. I had the genius idea to save $250 or so on tires if I used 4 of our spare Toyota 15's we had laying around and bought these exact tires for the troopy. All was well until we got to the rear tire, the old Toyota style 15in wheel can't go on the rear 70 series drums, dang...

Also cleaned the engine bay up, it was horribly disgusting underneath, doesn't bother me much until I have to work on something haha

At least the 40 looks good with the new tires, real good.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Found a good deal on some 33x9.5xR15 for our FJ40 that was in need of some tires. $178 a tire with 2-day free shipping, when the retreads we were looking at were $135 +shipping. Walmart deal of the century. I had the genius idea to save $250 or so on tires if I used 4 of our spare Toyota 15's we had laying around and bought these exact tires for the troopy. All was well until we got to the rear tire, the old Toyota style 15in wheel can't go on the rear 70 series drums, dang...
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Also cleaned the engine bay up, it was horribly disgusting underneath, doesn't bother me much until I have to work on something haha
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At least the 40 looks good with the new tires, real good.
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gotta love an fj40

 

[theglobb]

Yup, birfield soup. Smells great! Seals get here Wednesday, just taking everything apart while I got free time.

 

[Rigster]

Yup, birfield soup. Smells great! Seals get here Wednesday, just taking everything apart while I got free time.
View attachment 3015873

Ah, yummy! Living up to your nickname I see... gobs and gobs of globbs!!

It will be nice to get that job over with!

 

[theglobb]

Well, my parts got here after the sunset today, figured I might as well take the front diff out and throw a front Aussie locker in it. This is something I have been wanting to do ever since I first took the troopy to Uwharrie, then Moab, then Windrock, etc etc. I'm always at an obstacle thinking "man if I had a diff lock right now I wouldn't have to worry about panel damage or use the skinny pedal to get thru something"... solid axle in combonation with like 8 leaves doesn't allow for much flex. Manufacturers usually go for rear lockers and I see a lot more people put in rear lockers first I've wanted front for multiple reasons, especially since I knew I was going the auto locker route. I didn't really want to constantly have an auto locker clunking around, thus with free wheel hubs it'll only be active when my hubs are locked. here's just a bunch of words hob gobbled together off the Aussie Lokka website:

"A front fitment will actually yield the greatest improvement in off road ability. This is because, most vehicles require the increase in traction (that a locker gives) when hill climbing. Under hill climbing conditions, due to the angle of the vehicle, the rear wheels are carrying a much greater weight (weight transfer) and the front wheels are therefore carrying a lessor weight and tend to break traction more easily.
Once one front wheel starts to spin, the other front wheel stops turning and the front differential ceases to provide traction. At this point all power load is transferred onto the rear wheels as if it were a 2×4 and due to this increased load, the rear wheels are encouraged to spin and the vehicle stops.
If you can solve the problem of the front wheels losing traction, you have solved the traction problem.
Another advantage is that on road there are no changes to normal driving characteristics – assuming it has Free Wheel Hubs or a Disconnect Mechanism"

Man this thing is heavy!!!

I'm also working on rigging together a new intake, I've been worried about my duct tape intake collapsing or disintegrating metal air ducting into my turbo for a while now.

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