Builds 1996 HZJ75 Land Cruiser Pickup (2 Viewers)

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Brass tacks???
 
The other day I mounted my Blue Sea Distribution Block, but I still needed to wire it.

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Please excuse the messy engine bay, I still have not detailed the truck from the radiator flush/puke several months ago.

I pulled power to the distribution block from the alternator “B” terminal.

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And I ran a heavy duty ground onto the truck frame.

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The distribution block also includes a third set of terminals for +12 volt ignition. I decided to pull the ignition signal from the alternator as well.

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I didn’t want to chop up the original chassis harness trying to splice in for the ignition source. And I didn’t want to run the source directly from the alternator to the distribution block and overpower the wiring. So I made a sub-harness from oval male/female alternator pigtails off Amazon, and then used the sub-harness to signal the +12 volt ignition relay.

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The relay receives power and ground from the distribution block. And receives signal input from the alternator sub-harness. Finally, the relay output goes back to the distribution block as the switched +12 volt ignition source (top blue wire).

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I had to reorient the block upside down to route the wiring the way I wanted. But that’s ok because the generic “A” and “B” terminals don’t mean anything, and I’m going to custom label everything anyway.

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I already tested everything and it’s working flawlessly. This will give me a convenient place to wire accessories like interior gauges, A/C controls, or auxiliary lights or a winch.

For heavy duty items, you will still need a dedicated relay, but this will make all future wiring much easier.
 
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Anybody replaced their 70-series antenna?

I think I might need to pull the fender. Since it was a municipal truck, I think they added auxiliary comms at some point. I found two sets of antenna cables under the dash, but both were cut/abandoned.

It’s gonna need some TLC (and room to work) to get the radio with AM/FM back online.

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Any tips for pulling the fender?
 
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You don't have to pull the fender. I did mine a while back.

I don't have a good photo of it, but I reached up from the bottom and was able to bolt the antenna in that way. 86300-90K01 is the antenna I installed.
 
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I even fit the electric antenna through the fender opening. No need to pull.
 
You don't have to pull the fender. I did mine a while back.

I don't have a good photo of it, but I reached up from the bottom and was able to bolt the antenna in that way. 86300-90K01 is the antenna I installed.

I even fit the electric antenna through the fender opening. No need to pull.

How did you gain access? Through the engine bay? Or pull the splash guard in the wheel well?
 
How did you gain access? Through the engine bay? Or pull the splash guard in the wheel well?

unbolt the inner fender and you can get room... it is tight, but I did the same on my VZ truck.
 
unbolt the inner fender and you can get room... it is tight, but I did the same on my VZ truck.
10-4. I’ll try to tackle it today. Thanks!
 
How did you gain access? Through the engine bay? Or pull the splash guard in the wheel well?
I didn't have to unbolt anything, just reached up from below in the opening shown here:

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More wiring boringness.

The Blue Sea Distribution Block I previously added is rated to 100 amps. I decided it would be prudent to include a 100 amp fuse in the system, rather than running power directly from the alternator “B” terminal.

I added a Blue Sea Fuse Block on the frame.

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I also added some clamps on the fender to prevent anything from chafing.

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More wiring to go but waiting on relays.
 
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I just want to give a huge shoutout to @ChaserFJ60 again. A couple weeks ago he printed me a diff lock switch blank. The design was really close, but it still needed a couple of tweaks to be perfect. The dimensions were slightly too small and it would move around in the din blank. It also had a beveled edge which would leave a gap at the backside of the switch edge.

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Chase was kind enough (patient enough) to let me adjust the dimensions and delete the bevel.

I think V2.0 looks fantastic! If you didn’t know any better, you might assume that it’s factory Toyota.

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Thank you to @ChaserFJ60! Go check out his website: Cruiser Head - https://cruiserhead.com/

Now I just need to install 3.7 diff gears and e-lockers. o_O
 
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I just want to give a huge shoutout to @ChaserFJ60 again. A couple weeks ago he printed me the diff lock switch blank, and it was really close, but still needed a couple of tweaks. The dimensions were slightly too small, and it would move around in the din blank. It also had a beveled edge which would leave a gap at the backside of the switch edge.

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Chase was kind enough (patient enough) to let me adjust the dimensions and delete the bevel. I think it looks fantastic! If you didn’t know better, you might assume that it’s factory.

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Thank you to @ChaserFJ60! Go check out his website: Cruiser Head - https://cruiserhead.com/

Now I just need to install 3.7 diff gears and e-lockers. o_O
Looks OEM much better 😉
 
Installed Hella Super-Tones. They seem quite a bit louder than the stock horns, but it’s hard for me to tell.

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I love those Hella horns. I had some on my 2011 STi back in the day. Super loud and better than the pitful sound the OEM horns make.
 
Will, that sub harness is HOT. I need to make a couple of those. How much beer will it take to have you help me? 🤣
 
Will, that sub harness is HOT. I need to make a couple of those. How much beer will it take to have you help me? 🤣
Happy to help! No charge, my friend.
 
I decided to add an electric fan for the A/C condenser to keep things cool at low speeds or while idling.

It is a 6.5” SPAL pusher fan, which was the best/largest fan that would reasonably fit in the space. I’ll wire it to a trinary pressure switch and a relay so it comes on at 254psi and above.

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I decided to add an electric fan for the A/C condenser to keep things cool at low speeds or while idling.

It is a 6.5” SPAL pusher fan, which was the best/largest fan that would reasonably fit in the space. I’ll wire it to a trinary pressure switch and a relay so it comes on at 254psi and above.

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Seems to me that those nice horns are blocking a considerable amount of air flow to the condenser and radiator. Could they be moved closer to the head lights to increase air flow.
I do run a pusher fan on my Rig and it does help with the AC at low speed and idling.
I use a simple fan switch in the dash to activate it.
 

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