That looks like a pretty small pusher... I have used the 100 series pusher fan on several of my builds and pretty happy with them.
Build 1996 HZJ75 Land Cruiser Pickup
- Thread starter Will Van
- Start date
Member Build Threads
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
That’s the kit I’m using 
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #443
I had considered that. But I need the space on the passenger’s side to route the A/C lines. And it’s a similar location to the stock horns (with stock A/C).
I looked at both the 100 series fan and JDM 80 series fan. Toyota doesn’t publish their CFM data (which is a questionable metric anyway), but the SPAL draws more amps than either the 100 or 80 fan. And like I mentioned, this is the largest fan that would reasonably fit in the available real estate.
I can always test it and reevaluate if it isn’t performing well.
Edit: Ok, you shamed me into it. Upsizing to an 8” Spal fan. I skipped the 100 series fan because I like how the Spal mounting works. I’ll post pics of the upsized Spal when it’s installed.
Last edited:
Let me ask a question that I am working on as well... how much space between your radiator and the A/C condenser?
I have read no more than 1/2....
I am currently bending new mounts to get the A/C closer and wanted to see what you are doing.
I have read no more than 1/2....
I am currently bending new mounts to get the A/C closer and wanted to see what you are doing.
Seem to me that they should have a gap in there as you don't want to pick up heat from the radiator.
The stock gap-space on my 2006 Tundra and my 80 are 11/2" and 13/4" respectively with no foam in the gap.
factory radiators come with foam, at least the ones i've seen, thats prolly why TT does it.
The new old stock OEM radiator for my truck had foam.
Just to be clear the 80s do have foam between the radiator and the radiator support but not between the radiator and the condenser.
Most vehicles have this with the idea being to pull air through the radiator instead of around it.
Most vehicles have this with the idea being to pull air through the radiator instead of around it.
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #457
I got my bracket back from the fabricator and mounted my A/C receiver dryer. I had to modify it slightly because the bracket was so long, it acted like a spring board with the heavy dryer on the end - bouncing all over the place. I anchored it to the plastic fan shroud at the end, which worked like a charm.
Now to start routing A/C lines and wiring.
Now to start routing A/C lines and wiring.
Last edited:
Will Van
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #458
Mounted my boost gauge sensor in the engine bay. The 1HZ is naturally-aspirated, but eventually I will swap to turbo. Might as well have everything pre-installed.
I also received @ChaserFJ60’s custom radio bezel for my 52mm gauges. It’s going to need some prep work, but should make the install really clean.
I also received @ChaserFJ60’s custom radio bezel for my 52mm gauges. It’s going to need some prep work, but should make the install really clean.
@Will Van Has the first ever prototype piece, Well hopefully its a final piece! 3D prints can come out nasty looking, Some people dig the 3D print look but most dont.
After fitment has been confirmed by @Will Van and I post the bezel up on the market it will have more options. I'll have a non finished version which will look like what Will has posted above, and another paint matched version which will be incomparable to the OEM.
I offer the same thing for my FJ60 Bezel. I have three options, Unpainted, Beige, Gray. See the comparison below between the 3D printed and Paint matched pieces. I have my paint professionally custom mixed to match the parts so any change in color tone will be very minimal.
There are multiple ways one could go about these modifications and yours @janyyc is one of the clean paths to go no doubt. I try to offer Plug and Play products for those who know what they want and want it quickly.
Last edited: