Another Subwoofer Question Sorry (but not sorry) (1 Viewer)

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Gnarwgn

Gnarwgn

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So -

I've invested more time than I'd like to admit trying to answer this on my own. And many of you out there have some pretty respectable setups, I tip my hat. I also recognize that there are a boatload of strings hitting on the subject of subwoofer replacement and related upgrades. My apologies for creating yet another sub string however wasn't sure what else to do...

So here is my simple question - can the stock 6.5" subwoofer be upgraded to anything larger than 6.5" within the stock enclosure? I'm crossing my fingers I could somehow squeeze an 8" in the stock enclosure. Also - either way, if I keep the stock amp (which is my plan) does the sub replacement need to be a 2 ohm or can I go 4 ohm? I don't quite understand the whole ohm thing, other than the rig came standard with the 2 ohm JBL system/amp and you're supposed to replace with 2 only ohm for some reason (something to do with sound quality I think).

Lastly - either way (6.5" or 8" replacement) can anyone recommend a solid sub to go with (to install in the stock enclosure)? I'm not looking for cheap, I'd prefer to install something at least JBL worthy since its a bit of a process to access the stock enclosure, might as well reward the effort with decent equipment right? I've seen some videos of guys installing Pyle brand 6.5" replacements that apparently cost $13 at Wal-Mart, and that's the opposite of what I'm asking for.

Thanks for any pointers here, trying to knock this purchase out for Black Friday.
 
I haven't dealt with the stock enclosure for the larger woofer (I think my 99LC had two 4" subs), but I really doubt you could size up much at all. The enclosure barely fit around the stock woofer in the pics I've seen. There are like for like (or close to it) replacements available.

The "ohm thing". I think the easiest analogy to make is that the ohm rating (impedance) is sort of like the speaker's thirst for voltage. A lower impedance means it takes less voltage to move the speaker. A higher impedance means it will take more voltage. The factory amp is not configurable and will always put out the same voltage for a given signal. This is why you need to match impedence values when swapping speakers.

If you swap in a speaker with a 4 ohm impedance, your sub will be very quiet. If you swap in a 1 ohm sub, it will be louder (likely too loud). Most aftermarket subs are now "Dual Voice Coil" which means they are configurable in their impedance. Aftermarket amps are also typically very configurable.

OEM stuff really limits you. The aftermarket is WIIIIIIIIIIIDE open.

I wouldn't go any further with the OEM amp than simply swapping in a cheap aftermarket speaker that matches the OEM one as closely as you can find. Beyond that, ditch the factory amp, head unit and sub enclosure and do your own thing.
 
suprarx7nut said:
I haven't dealt with the stock enclosure for the larger woofer (I think my 99LC had two 4" subs), but I really doubt you could size up much at all. The enclosure barely fit around the stock woofer in the pics I've seen. There are like for like (or close to it) replacements available.

The "ohm thing". I think the easiest analogy to make is that the ohm rating (impedance) is sort of like the speaker's thirst for voltage. A lower impedance means it takes less voltage to move the speaker. A higher impedance means it will take more voltage. The factory amp is not configurable and will always put out the same voltage for a given signal. This is why you need to match impedence values when swapping speakers.

If you swap in a speaker with a 4 ohm impedance, your sub will be very quiet. If you swap in a 1 ohm sub, it will be louder (likely too loud). Most aftermarket subs are now "Dual Voice Coil" which means they are configurable in their impedance. Aftermarket amps are also typically very configurable.

OEM stuff really limits you. The aftermarket is WIIIIIIIIIIIDE open.

I wouldn't go any further with the OEM amp than simply swapping in a cheap aftermarket speaker that matches the OEM one as closely as you can find. Beyond that, ditch the factory amp, head unit and sub enclosure and do your own thing.
Click to expand...

Isn't one of the issues with factory wiring and amp that oftentimes when you modify components too much you get that low level noise and hiss?
 
gungriffin said:
Isn't one of the issues with factory wiring and amp that oftentimes when you modify components too much you get that low level noise and hiss?
Click to expand...

At least for the earlier model LCs, that comes from mixing aftermarket and OEM head unit and amplifiers. The OEM system uses its own internal ground loop which is completely incompatible with aftermarket options.

Swapping out just the speakers themselves should be fine.
 
what year LC or LX and sound system do you have? there are numerous versions even within just the first handful of years.

i dont think you are going to notice any difference if you are just replacing a 6.5 for a 6.5 and keeping the stock amp. im new to the 100 series and am planning my own total audio overhaul for next month and i dont think there are going to be too many votes to keep the stock amp. there are tons of threads about system overhauls. try reading more of those. @Pyrenees just did a VERY extensive thread on his.

i was only going to replace head unit and speakers originally but now this is how my shopping list for black friday is shaping up:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CB3CB1V/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014XQ6BLI/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A66MBWMVVRUO1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FR5HDZ2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A2R0FX412W1BDT&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KRFNJEW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4&psc=1

havent got the back door speakers figured out yet. the subbox fits under the KISS drawers i inherited. i am pretty stoked to get this project started.
 
Thanks @suprarx7nut - sage advice as usual and I appreciate it.

If I'm hearing you correctly, I should:

A) replace the OEM amp to expand my options
B) those expanded options including a better/larger sub

That leaves me with a lingering challenge - I want the sub to remain within the stock enclosure. Can that enclosure be modified/expanded to fit an 8", or is the only true way to bump up the sub size outside of the 6.5" stock enclosure to take the route of an external box? Reason why this is an issue for me is that I have 3 kids, their friends, and the less they have to mess with the better. Plus I need all the cargo space I can get. So even something as minimal as a sub box is a direction that I don't want to go.

@kruisinkid to answer your question - 2001 LC, non-nav version which came with the 5.0 JBL system.

I have replaced the head unit and four door speakers already with the following (JBL speakers and a Pioneer head unit/integrated backup cam):

GX602 | 6-1/2" coaxial car audio loudspeaker, 180W

AVH-4201NEX - 2-DIN Flagship Multimedia DVD Receiver with 7" WVGA Touchscreen Display and included ND-BC8 Back-Up Camera

Overall happy with exception of the sub issue, and I do experience a low level white noise (hiss/buzz) when the unit is powered on, equivalent of having an OM deck's volume jacked up to medium. Its slightly annoying, I'd prefer no white noise.

Anyhow - my goal is to have a presence of base, but I'm not an audiophile, not trying to win any competitions, and not even trying to turn heads. At the end of the day its the family adventure mobile (and my wife's ride) and we're rocking Coldplay. HARD. I bust a little Drake when I'm doing the late night Costco dash, and thats the extent. What I'm hearing here is that I could have better power all around and potentially reduce/eliminate the white noise if I upgrade the amp. What I think I'm also hearing is that I'm stuck with the 6.5" sub unless I want to do some serious mod work to the stock enclosure or upgrade to a sub box. If all of this is sounding on track, I will go for upgrading the amp and replacing the 6.5" with a higher quality 6.5". That's a win.
 
ReallyACruiser said:
Can you elaborate on where you are putting the sub box in the KISS drawers?
Click to expand...

Its going to go in the void on the left hand side of the drawers. Inbetween the trim panel where the sub is now and the left drawer. Gonna put some quick disconect connectors of some kind in that panel so the sub can easily come out.
 
No amount of speakers or amps is gonna make coldplay sound good!! Zing! Sorry not sorry.

Replacing the amp is the way to go i believe. Make sure its a 5 channel so you can trim the sub output and crossover
 
@Gnarwgn I think you've got a good path lined out.

Another slick option would be to pay a shop to build you an enclosure (likely fiberglass) that would fit in the factory location, behind the trim panel. That's the ideal solution, but will require a serious budget for the fab work. $1000 would probably buy you a very nice enclosure and a good sub from a specialty shop.
 
Guys -

Thanks for all the great responses, going with a stock replacement and I'll post pics of the outcome.

In the meantime I've encountered 2 additional variables that I could use opinions regarding:

1. speaker fabric - I need to replace all 5 fabric coverings starting with the sub cover. Spent waaaaay tooo much time googling speaker fabric and such to discover that basically there aren't many options and the following link is the best I could find, any other suggestions?

"Speaker Grill Cloth Gray Yard 70" Wide" from www.parts-express.com!

2. Sound deadening - Might as well install this while ripping everything apart - I've seen quite a few mentions of Dynamat applications, and then seeing alternative brands such as Kilmat and Noico on Amazon. Anybody have an opinion here? I'm looking for the best combination of low cost/ease of install/quality outcome.
 
I liked the noico 80 mil. It's heavier than it looks. That 33 dollar amazon option is a good deal. You need a roller also. I never saw the need to spend more than needed. Everyone has hobbies though.
 
results update:

Followed this great how to video (is this guy on MUD?), figuring if he could do it with one hand I could do it with two. The only thing I disagree with in the video is that if you are going to go through the trouble of replacing the sub, why would you buy a $12 Wal Mart sub as your replacement?



Debated heavily on which speaker to order, so I ordered 2:

1. the one Crutchfield said would fit (JL 6 3/4", $180): JL Audio C5-650cw-RP

2. the one Crutchfield said wouldn't fit, but the one I wanted to fit (Kicker 6 3/4", $75): Kicker CompRT 43CWRT672

Unpacked the boxes and found the JL was just as weak as the OEM JBL that I was tearing out. Was just a crappy speaker, especially for the price. Found the Kicker to be a really nice alternative and better built.

Anyway - followed the youtube video, removed the back panel, took off the trim ring on the stock sub, removed the blown speaker, clipped the wires.

none of the 8 holes in the Kicker housing lined up with the the 4 sub box holes, but the box is plastic so I just threw 8 screws into the plastic and called it a day. The stock opening and depth was perfect to fit the Kicker into.

Only thing to watch is that the black and red wires are the negatives, the yellow and green/blue are positive.

TREMENDOUS upgrade in sound, and I'm very happy with the outcome. I'm not going to win any awards for my system, and the sub isn't slowly unscrewing my license plates, but I actually have bass now which really creates a much fuller sound experience, and makes the other 6 speakers sound really good.

I could probably make this even better by switching out the amp, which I'll do someday. But for the time being it was $75 and a couple hours of slow moving work, and one of the better upgrade results I've experienced so far.

sub.jpg
 
Gnarwgn said:
r
2. the one Crutchfield said wouldn't fit, but the one I wanted to fit (Kicker 6 3/4", $75): Kicker CompRT 43CWRT672

none of the 8 holes in the Kicker housing lined up with the the 4 sub box holes, but the box is plastic so I just threw 8 screws into the plastic and called it a day. The stock opening and depth was perfect to fit the Kicker into.

Only thing to watch is that the black and red wires are the negatives, the yellow and green/blue are positive.

TREMENDOUS upgrade in sound, and I'm very happy with the outcome. I'm not going to win any awards for my system, and the sub isn't slowly unscrewing my license plates, but I actually have bass now which really creates a much fuller sound experience, and makes the other 6 speakers sound really good.

I could probably make this even better by switching out the amp, which I'll do someday. But for the time being it was $75 and a couple hours of slow moving work, and one of the better upgrade results I've experienced so far.
Click to expand...

It sounds like you're still running the stock JBL amp with the Kicker sub?

I have the ML amp and was wondering if the kicker sub will work, (unsure if the dual 2-ohm spec is compatible)
 
Fact check this, but my understanding is that the lower Ohm rating, the less power required for the sub.

So if the ML amp is powering a 2 Ohm system or greater (I'm sure you can find ML specs on the blog) then you are good to go.

Shouldl be as good if not better (more power = louder sub) than where I've landed.
 
clean install job!!
 
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