Dual 4 inch Dayton Audio "subwoofer upgrade" (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Feb 27, 2009
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Sausalito, CA
TLDR: Just as everyone has said before I tried it, there is no saving the stock subwoofer box setup

I have been replacing the factory speakers in my 2000 Land Cruiser. Replaced the door woofers and tweeters up front with Focal speakers. Applied sound deadening and foam surrounds to woofer locations and the result was mind blowing, much better bass response and crisper sound even with the factory amp. The only issue was I wanted more bass and the stock subwoofer was now grossly overpowered if it every did much at all. Decided to order the Dayton Audio TCP115-4 speakers that others have tried as drop in replacements for my factory 4" woofers. All my factory speakers are in mint condition, a benefit of cooler climates, but with how impressed I was swapping out the door speakers, I was hoping for similar results with the subwoofer.

The factory woofer speakers in the sub enclosure have a unique mounting plate so I created a 3D printed adapter for the Dyson Audio speakers that allowed them to bolt right up at the same height as the factory speakers so there was no issue with fitment both in the enclosure and with the panel covering it. Everything was looking good until I started playing some music...

These speakers were much "louder" than the factory ones, they push way more air. I could hear them clearly from the front seat. The issue is that they sound terrible. There was a resonance that I was assuming was coming from some other panels in the car due to the more aggressive bass response but when I went to hunt down the culprit, it turned out, it was the subwoofer enclosure itself. It sounded horrible with more air being pushed around inside. Thin and hollow with an annoying drone.

I’ll be trying a Kicker 46HS10 all-in-one under the passenger seat next. I’m not looking to shake my 23 year old car apart, I just want to round out the impressive sound coming from the new door speakers.
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My friend, I hope you find a solution that is acceptable for you. After 3 different setups, I am still looking for mine. OEM enclosure paired OEM amp never produced anything close to acceptable until I stepped away from both.
 
Forgive an unproductive question but I haven’t seen a lot of guys on this forum replacing Dual 4’s with any sort of success. 4” driver just isn’t a lot of cone area to move air, neither is 6” but there seems to be a number of beefy drivers out there that folks have had “success with”. After market everything with a slim profile 8 or 10 and call it a day.
 
I wish you success brother,
I also have a 2000 with the dual 4” “woofers.”

I’ve even thought about buying a newer 100 series single woofer enclosure off eBay or the like and going from there.

I have almost 15 pictures of each enclosure from different angles and even the plugs look the same. However I know the resistance is different!

Could you not load up the enclosure with pillow stuffing to slow the air down and wrap the enclosure with some cheapest Amazon sound deadening mat.

Heck I’m tempted to PM you and ask about a set of the adapters you printed… 🤔🤔
 
sounds (no pun intended) like you guys know what you are talking about.

?: I had my speakers "professionally" replaced. They did not do the base (i refoamed...still sound terrible). the 4 door speakers were replaced with new speakers. Now i know the resistance is not factory (forget the factory values.....2ohm or 4ohm?) because you can't get those plug & play.

How would that resistnace mismatch affect sound?

I still have the factory speakers taking up space in the garage. I may refoam in the future depending on answer to the above question.

That's not my story and i'm not sticking to it :doh:
 
TLDR: Just as everyone has said before I tried it, there is no saving the stock subwoofer box setup

I have been replacing the factory speakers in my 2000 Land Cruiser. Replaced the door woofers and tweeters up front with Focal speakers. Applied sound deadening and foam surrounds to woofer locations and the result was mind blowing, much better bass response and crisper sound even with the factory amp. The only issue was I wanted more bass and the stock subwoofer was now grossly overpowered if it every did much at all. Decided to order the Dayton Audio TCP115-4 speakers that others have tried as drop in replacements for my factory 4" woofers. All my factory speakers are in mint condition, a benefit of cooler climates, but with how impressed I was swapping out the door speakers, I was hoping for similar results with the subwoofer.

The factory woofer speakers in the sub enclosure have a unique mounting plate so I created a 3D printed adapter for the Dyson Audio speakers that allowed them to bolt right up at the same height as the factory speakers so there was no issue with fitment both in the enclosure and with the panel covering it. Everything was looking good until I started playing some music...

These speakers were much "louder" than the factory ones, they push way more air. I could hear them clearly from the front seat. The issue is that they sound terrible. There was a resonance that I was assuming was coming from some other panels in the car due to the more aggressive bass response but when I went to hunt down the culprit, it turned out, it was the subwoofer enclosure itself. It sounded horrible with more air being pushed around inside. Thin and hollow with an annoying drone.

I’ll be trying a Kicker 46HS10 all-in-one under the passenger seat next. I’m not looking to shake my 23 year old car apart, I just want to round out the impressive sound coming from the new door speakers.
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Any chance you could share the Focal size and model numbers that you used? I amlooking into upgrading m,y 01LX ML system... starting with the speakers....
 
Any chance you could share the Focal size and model numbers that you used? I amlooking into upgrading m,y 01LX ML system... starting with the speakers....

Focal RSE-165 for the fronts and Focal ACX 165 in the rear doors.

The fronts are components. If you remove the factory tweeter and mount, you can use some heat to pull the tweeter off the mount and drill a hole into it to screw the focal tweeters (they have a provision to screw into the back) to the factory mount and you will have perfect mounting and aiming of the tweeter. I ordered from Crutchfield which will give you mounting adapters for all the doors and oem plug adapters all for free with your speaker order. Highly recommend. I also used some Amazon “dynamat” type stuff inside all the doors and bought thick foam ring surrounds for the woofers in the doors. Even before the subwoofer upgrade I just finished, the improvement in mid-bass was nuts.​
 

Focal RSE-165 for the fronts and Focal ACX 165 in the rear doors.

The fronts are components. If you remove the factory tweeter and mount, you can use some heat to pull the tweeter off the mount and drill a hole into it to screw the focal tweeters (they have a provision to screw into the back) to the factory mount and you will have perfect mounting and aiming of the tweeter. I ordered from Crutchfield which will give you mounting adapters for all the doors and oem plug adapters all for free with your speaker order. Highly recommend. I also used some Amazon “dynamat” type stuff inside all the doors and bought thick foam ring surrounds for the woofers in the doors. Even before the subwoofer upgrade I just finished, the improvement in mid-bass was nuts.​
Thank you!!!
 

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