High Mileage Oil? (2 Viewers)

[dr335i]

Ok so it's time for my first oil change on my (new to me) 2001 LX470 and I'm having a hard time getting it figured out (mainly since I love this thing and I would really love it to last a few hundred thousand more miles).

I've got 260k on it right now. Have no idea what was really ran in there in the past. The sticker on the windshield from a local chain oil change place said the last oil used was 10w-30. My oil pressure is good -- at warm idle (on a hot alabama day) is right below the first tick mark and it shoots right up when I hit the gas. There is a little seepage around the oil pan gasket. cam seals, and Rear Main Seal. Nothing too bad and I do plan on getting them all fixed when they get a little worse.

So I bought some Mobil-1 5w-30 High Mileage Synthetic. And then down the rabbit hole I went. Seems like some people swear by it, and some people believe it will just cause every seal in the engine to swell and start leaking twice as bad. I plan on keeping this thing for a while, I love it. But I'm coming out of the BMW world, and I just have no interest in owning an engine thats leaking from 15 different places ever again.

 

[Robinson13]

Run the M1 for 5000 miles or 6 months, or what ever your routine is, and report back. I doubt you will notice any increased seepage.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Ok so it's time for my first oil change on my (new to me) 2001 LX470 and I'm having a hard time getting it figured out (mainly since I love this thing and I would really love it to last a few hundred thousand more miles).

I've got 260k on it right now. Have no idea what was really ran in there in the past. The sticker on the windshield from a local chain oil change place said the last oil used was 10w-30. My oil pressure is good -- at warm idle (on a hot alabama day) is right below the first tick mark and it shoots right up when I hit the gas. There is a little seepage around the oil pan gasket. cam seals, and Rear Main Seal. Nothing too bad and I do plan on getting them all fixed when they get a little worse.

So I bought some Mobil-1 5w-30 High Mileage Synthetic. And then down the rabbit hole I went. Seems like some people swear by it, and some people believe it will just cause every seal in the engine to swell and start leaking twice as bad. I plan on keeping this thing for a while, I love it. But I'm coming out of the BMW world, and I just have no interest in owning an engine thats leaking from 15 different places ever again.

I have a 2005 Tundra 4.7L 2UZ-FE with 138k on her

I did some homework on both the Valvoline & LUCAS websites , Taking into account I have a bit over 100K , NO oil Leaks or

seepage of any kind I decided to Roll with what I Read and understood on both company web sites and the facts they layed out

as far as Viscosity , oil pressure , existing Leaks & possible future ones , rubber seals & o-rings both internal & external


I Run Valvoline 20W50 Full synthetic , & Substitute 1 QT of engine oil for LUCAS Full Synthetic Oil Additive or oil Treatment

I also install a larger size oil filter from Union Sango part# C-110

this gives me a 3/4 Qt increased overall oil capacity !

I change my oil every 3000 miles as well , when i change it its BLACK !


I have been doing this since about 115K that's 6+ oil changes and only positive results

- stable increased oil pressure , especially under HOT running conditions

- NO new Oil leaks of any kind

- My engine runs a hair cooler on the Temp gauge , just a hair but noticeable


my 2 cents

 

[bucfl]

M1 Extended Performance with recommended filter. Went 7500 miles on first change, 10k on second and now will go full 15k. No issues in either LC or wife’s Honda. For both cars it costs me $160 once a year. Love doing oil change once a year.

 

[Leandro]

The only caveat of tje high mileage oil is that you have to keep using it.
I use it, no leaks. My truck has 200k miles and been using it for the las 30k.

 

[Robinson13]

I have a 2005 Tundra 4.7L 2UZ-FE with 138k on her

So you’re second guessing Toyota engineers? IMHO 20W50 is WAY to thick to be running in our 4.7 engines. These engines were designed to run 5W30.
Then you go on to second guess Valvoline chemical engineers by ruening their formulation buy running an additive?
May I suggest you do more homework?
I also had a Tundra (2006) that ran many hundreds of thousands of miles running 5W30 with zero engine problems before I traded it for my 04 LC.
IF you THINK you have oil pressure issues, change your sender. You’ll be surprised.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Mobil1 full synthetic 5W-30... sometimes high milage, sometimes not... it depends what I find the deal on. I go around 10k per change. Hardly lose any oil. Might need a half a quart added between changes in the warmer summer months here in AZ.

 

[bucfl]

The only caveat of tje high mileage oil is that you have to keep using it.
I use it, no leaks. My truck has 200k miles and been using it for the las 30k.

Never heard that. How so?

 

[Ayune]

Never heard that. How so?

There are additives in High Mileage oil that swell seals and help stop existing leaks. If you go back to regular oil the seals can shrink back and possibly cause new/more leaks. Or so I've heard...

 

[dr335i]

There are additives in High Mileage oil that swell seals and help stop existing leaks. If you go back to regular oil the seals can shrink back and possibly cause new/more leaks. Or so I've heard...

And that's exactly what I'm scared of. That being said I should probably just go ahead and use it considering I have no idea what kind of oils been run in it and I'm sure the local chain stores were pushing high mileage

 

[2001LC]

Get that HM oil out now. It will damage your seals after just two oil changes (~6 to 10K miles). Use any good synthetic oil. I use M1 5W-30 with M1 oil filter.

If rear main and cam/crank seal leaking, try some At-205 reseal.

Running with synthetic oil will help clean engine internally of sludge. This cleans the seal also, which may then leak more. Using AT-205 on clean seals will allow absorption to be more efficient by rubber seal. If not badly sludged, you can use BG's EPR to flush engine.

I doubt your oil pan is leaking as it uses FIPG black, not a gasket. Not sure how you determined cam seals unless you pulled timing belt covers. If oil coming from front weep hole it may be cam seal(s) and or crank seal. I assume you've seen oil from the rear weep hole to make call on rear main leak.

Most times oil is leaking from above at head covers, below at oil filter bracket and spillage from above. Another leak that often looks like oil pan leak is the dipstick tube O-ring weeping. Head cover leak can often be slowed even stopped by "torque to spec" all the cover bolts.

 

[Spike555]

My oil pressure on a hot summers day, at the dunes after bouncing the tach off the rev limiter for a few hours climbing hills in sand so soft and deep you sink to your ankles when you try and walk.

What my oil looks like after 5,000 miles.

I use Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 full synthetic diesel oil. PureOne oil filter when they go on sale for BOGO.
No extra additives. No special oil filters. No leaks with 184,000 miles on the clock.
It's $22/gal, I pour in two gallons and call it good. Does not use a drop.

 

[2001LC]

@Spike555 you stated: "I use Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 full synthetic diesel oil. *** I pour in two gallons and call it good."
I curious. What MPG are you getting over the long term?

I'm curious, as your not only overfilling by 3 qts now (last week it was .8 to 1 qt.) based on factory spec, but using a viscosity higher than recommended by Toyota. As you know, Toyota warns overfilling may damage the engine, but you seem to be putting more and more in. Aren't you concerned you'll hydraulock?

The 2UZ is a very tight engine (ring gap & piston side wall clearance) that doesn't use oil or smoke. But even it can be pushed to far!

 

[dr335i]

Get that HM oil out now. It will damage your seals after just two oil changes (~6 to 10K miles). Use any good synthetic oil. I use M1 5W-30 with M1 oil filter.

If rear main and cam/crank seal leaking, try some At-205 reseal.

Running with synthetic oil will help clean engine internally of sludge. This cleans the seal also, which may then leak more. Using AT-205 on clean seals will allow absorption to be more efficient by rubber seal. If not badly sludged, you can use BG's EPR to flush engine.

I doubt your oil pan is leaking as it uses FIPG black, not a gasket. Not sure how you determined cam seals unless you pulled timing belt covers. If oil coming from front weep hole it may be cam seal(s) and or crank seal. I assume you've seen oil from the rear weep hole to make call on rear main leak.

Most times oil is leaking from above at head covers, below at oil filter bracket and spillage from above. Another leak that often looks like oil pan leak is the dipstick tube O-ring weeping. Head cover leak can often be slowed even stopped by "torque to spec" all the cover bolts.

You're correct my oil pan definitely is not leaking. There's a little oil on the bottom of my engine. I just kind of saw it out of the corner of my eye yesterday when I crawled under the truck. It could be the oil filter leaking a little for all I know I plan on getting it on a lift tomorrow and I'll know more.

I was told the cam seals are leaking but I'm not really worried about it as the timing belt is due anyway and I'll be having that done in a week or so so I will just have them replaced anyway.

I'll order some of the AT205 right now. Thanks so much looks like exactly the kind of thing I'll be willing to try (I'm very particular about what goes in the engine)

My oil pressure on a hot summers day, at the dunes after bouncing the tach off the rev limiter for a few hours climbing hills in sand so soft and deep you sink to your ankles when you try and walk.


View attachment 1710713


What my oil looks like after 5,000 miles.

View attachment 1710714

I use Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 full synthetic diesel oil. PureOne oil filter when they go on sale for BOGO.
No extra additives. No special oil filters. No leaks with 184,000 miles on the clock.
It's $22/gal, I pour in two gallons and call it good. Does not use a drop.

Sold. Will order some today.

 

[Ayune]

Get that HM oil out now. It will damage your seals after just two oil changes (~6 to 10K miles). Use any good synthetic oil. I use M1 5W-30 with M1 oil filter.

I have no leaks whatsoever. At my last oil change ~15k ago Valvoline suggested I use 5w-30 HM and I reluctantly took their advice.

Question: is it too late to switch back to regular synthetic now? It been 15k and just over one year.

 

[2001LC]

I spoke with two different techs at Mobil One support. Both said if you use HM for two oil changes, you must then use thereafter forever.

Does it matter how many miles between changes? They didn't say, and I can't say. Normal is 3 to 5k miles between changes or max of 1 year.

 

[Ayune]

I spoke with two different techs at Mobil One support. Both said if you use HM for two oil changes, you must then use thereafter forever.

Does it matter how many miles between changes? They didn't say, and I can't say. Normal is 3 to 5k miles between changes or max of 1 year.

Crap, sounds like I may have waited too long. Wonder if I should just leave it for the life of the vehicle? What's the worst I can expect? Will all my seals go bad? Again, I got no leaks...

 

[Spike555]

@Spike555 I curious. What MPG are you getting over the long term?

I'm curious, as your not only overfilling by 3 qts now (last week it was .8 to 1 qt.) based on factory spec, but using a viscosity higher than recommended by Toyota. As you know, Toyota warns overfilling may damage the engine, but you seem to be putting more and more in. Aren't you concerned you'll hydraulock?

The 2UZ is a very tight engine (ring gap & piston side wall clearance) that doesn't use oil or smoke. But even it can be pushed to far!

My combined average is 14.5mpg.
It is not overfilled by 3qts.
It is not grossly overfilled, it is overfileld by less than half a quart.
Toyota RECOMMENDS 5w-30 because they have to for EPA reasons.
Hydrolcok is when water is ingested into the cylinders, water does not compress so the connecting rods get bent and that's what destroys the engine.
Heavier weight motor oil does not stretch bearings or rings or anything. All it does it hold it's viscosity longer under heat and high stress and does not thin out like a thinner oil does, aand because it isn't working as hard the oil lasts longer.
I still change ti every 5,000 miles because that's what I do and have always done.
I did go 10k and take a sample but I have yet to send it off to the lab.

You all can do whatever you want, this is what I do and will always do, until I do something else.

 

[dr335i]

I spoke with two different techs at Mobil One support. Both said if you use HM for two oil changes, you must then use thereafter forever.

Does it matter how many miles between changes? They didn't say, and I can't say. Normal is 3 to 5k miles between changes or max of 1 year.

See that worries me even more. I have a 260k mile car here, it's been properly maintained and the last owner had it for 95% of its life but still, I know the local chain stores push the high mileage stuff cause they charge more for it, and 260k miles is a lot of oil changes. I honestly have no idea whats been run in there besides that at least the last time it was changed it was 10w-30, and thats not even close to right.

 

[Spike555]