How To: Replace your own steering rack (4 Viewers)

[Supra88]

I always do my own work on my vehicles, but right now I'm deep in to projects on my 80 and my Supra. So rather than install my new OEM rack and TREs myself, I brought it to a mechanic.

I get the truck back and of course my OCD has me inspect their work. Low and behold the TRE on the drivers side has 5 more threads showing than the passenger side! So I did a lock to lock test and sure enough I can turn the wheel 2 rotations one way and 1.75 rotations the other way. The truck also pulls slightly to the right.

So I call the shop and they say, they're not going to be equal cuz that's how they set the toe! They also appear to not own any wrenches as my TREs are all chewed up from channel locks.

Lesson learned. Always do your own work if you can. Or am I being to critical?

 

[87warrior]

I always do my own work on my vehicles, but right now I'm deep in to projects on my 80 and my Supra. So rather than install my new OEM rack and TREs myself, I brought it to a mechanic.

I get the truck back and of course my OCD has me inspect their work. Low and behold the TRE on the drivers side has 5 more threads showing than the passenger side! So I did a lock to lock test and sure enough I can turn the wheel 2 rotations one way and 1.75 rotations the other way. The truck also pulls slightly to the right.

So I call the shop and they say, they're not going to be equal cuz that's how they set the toe! They also appear to not own any wrenches as my TREs are all chewed up from channel locks.

Lesson learned. Always do your own work if you can. Or am I being to critical?

Sounds like they got off one spline on the steering linkage. It's probably a difference that won't make a difference. I'd have to correct it, but that's just me If the toe is set correctly there should be no pull. Are you sure it's not the road crown causing the rig to veer to the right?

I'd be more upset over the chewed up TREs. It's not any harder to grab the appropriate wrench versus the channel locks or monkey wrench.

 

[Rolocado]

The steering rack isn't centered. It took me three tries at Toyota for them to get it right. You should be able to turn the wheel equal amounts each way. Up to you if it bothers you too much

 

[Supra88]

Oh it bothers me. Like most of us on this site I probably take things to the extreme and am compulsive about doing things the right way. Yeah I can't accept half ass work. Amazing that they take no pride in what they do. I'm dropping it off tonight. We'll see how they respond.

 

[Supra88]

Shop says the steering is limited by the steering knuckle stops and there is nothing they can do. Grrrrr.

 

[Rolocado]

Shop says the steering is limited by the steering knuckle stops and there is nothing they can do. Grrrrr.

No it's not haha, it is but the OEM rack let you steer equal distances each way. It's off a spline

 

[DirtDawg]

Shop says the steering is limited by the steering knuckle stops and there is nothing they can do. Grrrrr.

The shop is wrong.

 

[Supra88]

Going to pick it up now. "Yeah it's normal to have 5 extra threads on one side and lose a 1/4 turn on the steering wheel on the other side"

What recourse do I have with these bozos?

 

[Rolocado]

Going to pick it up now. "Yeah it's normal to have 5 extra threads on one side and lose a 1/4 turn on the other side"

What recourse do I have with these bozos?

If you haven't paid for it yet say that you won't until it's fixed. Other wise talk to a manager and show him that no cars don't have uneven tie rod threads.

 

[Supra88]

Alright I met with the owner/mechanic and explained to him what I thought was going on. Specifically about the steering shaft spline being off and the tie rod ends being unequal to compensate for that. I think the light went on and he finally understood what was going on. Anyway, The Hundy is going back for the third time next week.

In the meantime I need to finish up replacing an Axle in my 80. No more outsourcing any of my Land Cruiser work.

Sorry to have hijacked this thread - here's my contribution: install it yourself!

 

[ccasteel]

You guys using the jack the motor up method, where are you placing the jack? Under the pan?

 

[87warrior]

@ccasteel - I did not use the pan to lift the motor. I used a block of wood on either an ear for the bell housing or the edge of the block (I can't quite remember) on top of the jack. I was able to lift the motor enough to wedge a short piece of 2x4 between the frame and motor mount to hold the motor up. This gave me just enough room to slide the rack out.

 

[Rolocado]

@ccasteel - I did not use the pan to lift the motor. I used a block of wood on either an ear for the bell housing or the edge of the block (I can't quite remember) on top of the jack. I was able to lift the motor enough to wedge a short piece of 2x4 between the frame and motor mount to hold the motor up. This gave me just enough room to slide the rack out.

Didn't even think to put a block of wood under the mount. If you hear a little bit of creaking don't freak out you're not breaking anything. At least you shouldn't be

 

[PabloCruise]

We didn't lift the whole engine, just the drivers side. Unbolted the drivers side engine mount and jacked it up an inch.

Please advise - where do you apply lift on the engine when jacking it up? Thanks...

 

[PabloCruise]

This looks to be a pretty solid thread on replacing the PS rack.

@Trunk Monkey - why no PS rack replacement threads in the FAQ? Or am I missing it?

 

[RootMeanSqr]

Please advise - where do you apply lift on the engine when jacking it up? Thanks...

I unbolted the 2x 14mm bolts on driver side engine mount and placed the jack under the rear of the engine, right where it mates to the transmission bell housing. I used a small block of wood between jack and engine to prevent damage. I was able to jack it up about 2 inches or so. I did this to replace my exhaust manifold, but jacking process should be the same.

 

[PabloCruise]

This thread really was the one that got me to do my own steering rack. I even learned some tricks to add to it.

For the benefit of anyone else willing to take on this job as a DIY...

...why the heck isn't this in the FAQ?

I was wondering about FAQ status as well.

Question: When sliding the rack out the front, were you able to keep the steering wheel and rack centered when separating?

I hear bad stories of people getting the new rack in and they are off by a couple of splines, so then they have to correct by playing with the outer rod ends...

 

[AimCOtaco]

I would say that you don't HAVE to correct at the rod end's and should get it right at the splines first.

I copied the old rod end measurements to the new rack and then played with the splines until the steering and wheel were centered.... then went in for an alignment.

 

[87warrior]

I copied the old rod end measurements to the new rack and then played with the splines until the steering and wheel were centered.... then went in for an alignment.

This is exactly what I did to get the rack inline with the steering wheel. Put a little grease or other lubricant on the intermediate shaft splines and the splines on the rack. This makes it pretty easy to adjust the spline alignment with the rack installed.

 

[PabloCruise]

Just finished mine over the weekend and had an alignment this week. DO IT! The truck feels great, I think I needed one longer than I realized. Great price on the rack came from cruiser dan at american toy in NM.

My take on this is that it's pretty easy other than the steering shaft disconnect and re-install. I say this because mine was originally a Michigan truck so the first removal of anything generally sucks bad. I tried to remove this a few years back when I did DT headers but ended up leaving it alone and working around it due to how stiff it was. Obviously there was no working around it and I fought and fought with it but the lower joint was NOT happening after hours of effort (I was not going to flame a rubber sealed universal joint if I could avoid it). I found the post above by @rohitash who had the same problem and I decided to try removing the rack and shaft together. The upper joint separated in only an hour of cursing and then as rohitash described, I removed the rack and universal shaft together. I actually got it to come out from the front after shifting it full passenger. It took about an hour or two on the bench to ultimately separate the rusty steering shaft from the old rack... but it cleaned up nice enough and went back in.

Thanks all who contributed to this thread, I don't usually follow write ups but several points here made this job a lot more straight forward. @ENGINE er Thanks for the initial write up and giving me a name to take in vain as knuckles were busted. @5Cruiser Thanks for the engine lift idea, that is the real key. @rohitash Thanks for letting me know the sucker would come out with the steering shaft attached, saved my day.

-If you struggle with the lower steering shaft connection definitely move to the upper as rohitash and I did, it makes it a lot easier to deal with. It will come out the front with the shaft still attached and the engine lifted about 1". Pay no attention to the front drive shaft, unrelated work.
View attachment 1138194
-A flex head breaker bar makes the passenger side mounts on the early trucks a piece of cake.
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-Wind sucks, work inside if you can... or put a rock in your pan!
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Rack'em up!

Looks like you turned your rack off center to get it out? Do you think you could have left it centered and gotten it out the front?