Trunk Monkey

It's your introduction to the FAQ stickie

Phase refers to the yokes on the ends of the driveshaft, are they in the same orientation or 90* off? To reinstall just put the t-case in neutral and rotate the flange until it lines up with the driveshaft yoke. Make sure to put the e-brake on.

Did you leave some of the plastic geared cable inside the motor from the old antenna that maybe snapped off? You could find the chrome cap maybe from someone parting out their truck here in the classifieds.

Search around on lifts, you'll get an idea of the pros/cons of t-bars and diff drop.

If you have Techstream or an advanced code reader that can do C-codes, you can pull them OBD, otherwise you'll need to do the above method.

I used JB Weld epoxy with metal in it and either it didn't work or I didn't go heavy enough because after two years, in the heat of this summer the case peeled open. Went with the full Aisin replacement assembly this time instead.

If it's coming through that much, I'd have someone pour water moving slowly around the perimeter of the sunroof while you sit inside at see at what point you see water inside.

CV not seated into the diff or hub? I would thoroughly inspect up above the leak, take the skid plate off to get a better look.

What color is it, what's it feel like, viscosity?

Just running down the list of possibles.

I would read codes to make sure nothing new has cropped up and then maybe look at replacing the starter.

Apparently time for the reminder of the purpose of this thread.

EFI thread was posted one up from that and he said he'd tried it. OP, I'd maybe look at an advanced scanner or Techstream to see if maybe you're getting misfires and see if there's a count of those while running.

His post said it's not. You may have two leaks going, I think you've also got a leaking CV band that's throwing grease (spray pattern). I'd clean both well and see what returns.

I would wipe the areas down and inspect regularly so you can get an idea of how much fluid is leaking out and at what interval. For the valve covers, many have had success with just slightly tightening the cover bolts, careful not to over do it...

You can try the fuse swap as well as jumping straight to the battery just as tests. This thread has a good flow of checks to narrow the issue if it is this. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-immobilizer-fix.946305/

Are you talking about the sub on the side panel in the cargo area? If so, lots of threads on replacements, few of them direct drops ins with minimal modification required.

Have you tried the EFI bypass to rule out that system?

Bummer. But, at least not the transmission or t-case. You can get the parts on one of the SE dealers sales since you're close. Likely need new CV, new drive flange, c-clips (maybe different sizes to check). Good time to check the hub for...

There's a good Youtube by Car Care Nut that fully takes apart a 100 sunroof. You can see how the mechanism works as well as where the possible failure points are and what you need to keep lubricated.

Yes, it's the inside latch. You could check the parting out classifieds here or look up the part number on a site like Partsouq and then order from the dealer of your choice, if it's available.

Got a pic of what you're looking for?

You can look in the classifieds here in parting out.

Are you asking if the soap bubbles works for detecting a leak or if you should do it? It does work and if you have an air compressor it's a free way to check.