Builds My LC 80 thread. (1 Viewer)

[kevsta]

I see the steering cooler now, yes vulnerable and rusty. so just the new cooler on the trans and the PS through the rad is the way forwards then. gracias gents.

edit. I just went and looked under the car. this is not as simple as it sounds, as it looks as though the cooler wrapped round the frame at the front is an integral part of the flow and return to the steering box?

ie, removing it leaves 4 open pipes, 2 at each end, and only 2 tubes to connect into on the rad? it seems like I could only remove one side of the "paperclip" by re-routing through the rad but would still need the other side for the return?

what do I need to do here exactly?

 

[kevsta]

mm. definitely confused here lol.

the parts diagrams all show some sort of loop affair, like this
http://www.euro4x4parts.com/parts/dfh1022-2183_power_steering_pressure_hose_44420-60260.html

however mine most definitely is 2 separate pipes, both terminating in the steering box the other side.

here's the passenger (left) side going down to the frame

and heres the 2 pipes coming back out the other end.

is this the same as yours? so I would need to route the flow through the rad to the box, and run a long new return pipe?

 

[JOHN OF LONDON]

Hi,
Power steering consists of a reservoir of ATF, the thing you top up. The ATF runs out of the bottom to the power steering pump on the engine where it is pumped to a high pressure. From the pump it goes direct to the steering box where it does it's work turning the steering. If you need to replace this pipe you need a proper hydraulic hose with swaged ends; do the whole run in hose and forget the metal section. A good hydraulic hose shop should make you one up while you wait; it's best done on the car so you get the right length, it's pretty stiff hose. Having done is work the ATF now returns to the reservoir. For this run low pressure oil pipe fixed with good Jubilee clips is fine and it is this run which can go through the radiator. The ATF returns to the reservoir, near the top, to start it's journey again. I think if you follow your pipes this will all make sense!
When fitting the oil cooler be careful not to fix it rigidly to the body as they don't like vibration much; either use rubber mounts or fix it to the water radiator and share it's rubber mounts. Above all don't fix the top to the radiator and the bottom to frame as that will shake it to pieces double quick.
Cheers
John

 

[Dave 2000]

Good explanation John.

My return pipe went into the top left of the oil cooler did the 'paper clip' thing and then exited on the right side back to the reservoir, maybe there are different variations for manual versus auto, I cannot see why but possible?

regards

Dave

 

[JOHN OF LONDON]

So there were three lengths of pipe across the front on the return making four in total? I am sure mine had just two when it was made; the pipes were held on with double clips with a single, rusted solid, bolt in the middle, looking as though they hadn't been disturbed in 23 years

 

[kevsta]

it sounds like John's (auto?) is the same as mine with the 2 pipes across to the steering box, and back. the exposed metal pipework across the frame in both directions must suffice as cooling, currently. thanks John.

although a good hydraulic shop here isn't such an easy thing to locate..

 

[Dave 2000]

It does sound as if there are differences Kev, the cooler on mine (very rusty) was bolted tight to the cross member, this would act as a heat sink as well as the exposure to air.

Find a tractor repair shop Kev, the Canaries has some agriculture IIRC? They have the correct hoses and crimping tools.

regards

Dave

 

[JOHN OF LONDON]

Kevin,
Farming and construction are the big hydraulic users, someone will make them new hoses locally.
Dave,
My 80 was originally sold in the UK which is, according to Mr T, in Northern Europe and thus needed 24 volt starting. Perhaps it didn't need so much cooling for the same reason?
John

 

[kevsta]

yea.. here comes that "mission creep" again yes I see the differences between the 2 pipes, and probably the worst of the rust is on the high pressure one. so I cant really just leave it on, loop the return through the rad and forget about it.

so it's pipes off and a custom made one, which if Im pulling it apart and its going to be off the road, I should probably also address the slow leak from the steering pump too.. here we go again lol.

 

[JOHN OF LONDON]

If you are lucky the steering pump will only need a new "O" ring on the output flange. When I dismantled mine I was amazed to find the ring was worn out, I have no idea why it should wear out as, so far as I can see, it is held immobile when tightened up! Your hydraulic man, when you find him, will be able to match it for a few cents; or you buy one from Mr T for a few Euros.
John

 

[Dave 2000]

My 80 was originally sold in the UK which is, according to Mr T, in Northern Europe and thus needed 24 volt starting. Perhaps it didn't need so much cooling for the same reason?
John

Very possible John, mine too was 24v starting but I swapped that for 12v, it was a bit OTT IMO.

regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Update:

@255,640 changed the fuel filter. I was asked why change it after a trip and not before. No particular reason other than on one occasion I changed a filter on a Hyundai Galloper (Mitsubishi copy under licence), and the damn thing run like a bag of nails afterwards. It took ages to find why a simple filter change would bring about such grief.

The obvious was checked, air leak on the new filter sealing washers (2), faulty filter, loose pipe connection, cracked pipe, and so forth. So after wasting two hours going through the check the filter, purchase another filter and so on, the leak was found at the pump. At a guess over time a small gap had opened up at the inlet side where the copper washers sealed up the pipe connection. The only conclusion I could come to, was that as the pump was sucking at this join it had drawn in dust thus keeping the join air tight. By changing the filter I had to pump the fuel through, the dust in effect being blown out of the join now leaving it exposed and allowing air in once the pump started sucking again.

This may sound far fetched but I did no work anywhere near the pump, it was a simple change of fuel filter and is the only scenario that very loosely fits the reason for the problems running after doing the job. Replaced the copper washers, turned the key and it run perfect.

When I am going on a trip, I try not to change anything unless there is a few days to use the car before the journey, any teething problems having time to be resolved. The trip was generally uneventful, the filter changed on my return as part of normal maintenance.

EDIT: Fuel filter information, Purflux CS 437

regards

Dave

 

[JOHN OF LONDON]

Dave,
I quite like the enthusiastic way it keeps into life with the 24 volt starter and wonder if a single battery small enough to fit the battery tray could be relied upon to start a big diesel on the coldest day of winter. But it would be nice to have a leisure battery. Decisions, decisions!

 

[Dave 2000]

Dave,
I quite like the enthusiastic way it keeps into life with the 24 volt starter and wonder if a single battery small enough to fit the battery tray could be relied upon to start a big diesel on the coldest day of winter. But it would be nice to have a leisure battery. Decisions, decisions!

The 80 was over engineered in the starting department IMO, it starts just as quick with 12v as it does with 24. The 80 is direct injection which means it does not need glow plugs but they are fitted as an extra. I modified an old second hand HDJ 100 starter (12v), and run it around for a few years before fitting the correct 12v unit designed for the 80. On a typical day it starts from two batteries in parallel, 12v but double the amps, if the car has stood a few days then the VSR will have separated the batteries, and it will start from just the one.

Your right it is nice having a 'spare' battery for my fridge and camp lighting, my two batteries are dual purpose crank/leisure, a compromise but works for me.

regards

Dave

 

[JOHN OF LONDON]

It's alright for you in sunny Spain. Last Christmas but 1 I was in the Orkneys and it was ****** cold and my Discovery only just managed to cough into life with its little engine. I wouldn't have wanted to walk far that night! I keep looking for spaces for a third battery and an auxillary fuel tank but inspiration hasn't struck me yet. I'm currently dismantling my old Discovery and think there is a possibility that the tank will fit the spare wheel space. Perhaps a battery might fit too!!

 

[Dave 2000]

The coldest I have started mine is -8 C, and I doubt -20 would bother it TBH. Of course I could be wrong and get caught out in Northern Spain. There are a couple of tank options for the 80.

regards

Dave

 

[kevsta]

Still crossing the jobs off over here. So she just had a new Aisin waterpump, and genuine Toyota timing belt & tensioner, (all from Roughtrax, theyre really good) the Toyota 76 degree thermostat, new alternator belts, and Toyota red coolant. plus I finally got to fit the rest of my silicon hose kit, including those little turbo waterfeed pipes that are impossible to get to, until it's apart. It's nice to know nothing's going to suddenly spring a leak on 24 year old hoses under there anymore. Gave her a bit of a long-neglected clean up under there too

there's a red pipe under the watertube next to the fuel pump here if you look carefully, hardly an easy roadside fix lol

and turbo-side, not much better

and speaking of old pipes, I also took the opportunity to do the rear heater delete. I have plans for some of the waterpipes left by this though, Im thinking installing a high pressure waterpump under the drivers seat and make a permanent powerwash facility from them

getting there..

I have to also give a big shout out to my pal and top mechanic Mr T, without whom yesterday, and in fact on many occasions, I would be hopelessly lost and stuck.

 

[Dave 2000]

Ah Kev, you have found the right silicone hose kit for the 80 12 valve! I have seen some rubbish and they more often than not have parts missing, please send me the link at your convenience, The red brightens up the engine bay for sure.

I too have removed the heater and the space under the seat will eventually be my on board air pump.

Take it easy.

regards

Dave

 

[kevsta]

Ah Kev, you have found the right silicone hose kit for the 80 12 valve! I have seen some rubbish and they more often than not have parts missing, please send me the link at your convenience, The red brightens up the engine bay for sure.

I too have removed the heater and the space under the seat will eventually be my on board air pump.

Take it easy.

regards

Dave

sure, it was this from "Winner Racing" silicone radiator hose Toyota Land Cruiser HDJ80 1HD-T/1HD-FT/1HD-FTE 90-97 red | eBay

but it wasnt perfect. I have 3 small pieces left over that I still dont know what they are.

and the (R/H side viewed from front) heater delete was done by cutting up the single larger hose left over too. to start with though, both rad hoses and main heater hoses fitted (with no, or minimal trimming) and the hidden torbo pipes were spot on too

 

[Dave 2000]

Perfect cheers Kev! The extra pieces I have seen on other sites confused me as well, it led me to think I was looking at the wrong kit and moved on, then you get bored and give up, want to get mine done before the summer heat kicks in. At the moment I am researching mapping software and looking for a cheap android tablet to throw in the glove box for trail use, any thoughts? Having said that and knowing where you live, I guess you just keeping going around in a circle and you arrive back home right?

regards

Dave