Builds Project Beach Cruiser | The 1971 FJ40 Patina RestoMod (1 Viewer)

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I did a little locking hub rebuild today. Nothing like a little sandblasting, paint and grease to make something look new again.

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Its like Christmas every time I get an update text from Tim. Looks like he is making great progress on replacing the rusty fuel tank!

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I got another update from Scully tonight. The frame is painted, new bushings are in the Springs, there are new u bolts and the front disc brake conversion is almost done.

Once he gets over the new spindle bushing to longfield interference issue, the front end should be done.

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More updates. The front end is together frame is painted, crossmember is fabricated.
It's coming together!

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I spy my FJ40 in one of Scully Offroad's instagram stories. Looks like it's back on the ground!

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Running into some issues with the brake booster today. Originally I had a '93 mini truck booster planned, but there was no way that would fit.

Now it has a 60-series booster bolted in, but it's way too close to the intake.

Any ideas?

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An OE drum brake booster is skinnier than the 60series. Just not dual diaphragm.
 
So we tried a few different boosters:

  • 1993 mini truck - diameter was too big and the spacer made it hit the intake
  • 1981 FJ60 - in normal orientation it needed a spacer off the firewall plus the firewall hole opened up to clear
  • 1985 Cressida - this dual diaphragm 7.5" diameter booster looked promising- but the bolt pattern to the firewall was too small
  • 1996 FZJ80 - ended up being the same as the 1993 mini truck booster and badly hit the firewall rib.
In the end Tim mounted the 1981 FJ60 booster, then modified the push rod to the brake pedal to fit. Plus he had to hammer out the firewall brace. It cleared by 1/2"

What a mess this part of the project was!

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running a 79-83 mini truck booster with 60 series master. Plenty of room.

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@73tlcv8 what battery mount are you running?
That's pretty smart to move it to the drivers side.
 
Its the BTB mount. I attached a plate to the inside of the frame just behind the motor mount that rises about 6" above the top of the frame. Then bolted the BTB tray to that piece and the fender. This gets it to sit high enough to clear the intake and gets it above the exhaust manifolds. The top bolts to the vertical lip of the fender between the sloped part and the horizontal part. I thought it fit pretty well and the battery doesn't feel like it is getting hot from the exhaust. You could move it further forward if not running a smog pump or OBA like I am. There is another mount that works well in that position, fastens to the top of the shock tower and the fender if I recall. I'm using 1 AWG battery cables (changed the neg since the picture), the starter spins faster than ever. pos cable is 72" and the negative is 30". Negative cable is bolted to the frame with one of the motor mount bolts ( I had to retrofit the 2F motor mount brackets since they had been removed for the previous V8. I covered the pos cable with a layer of heat shrink then a FG sleeve to protect it from heat and abrasion.
 
@73tlcv8 what battery mount are you running?
That's pretty smart to move it to the drivers side.

I read through your thread and see you are running the 2FE combination which I think sets a bit taller than the 3FE and is affecting your booster clearance. Also your headers without heat shields will not be a good influence on your battery on the driver side.
 
The floor board is getting pretty cut up. The last owner swaped from 3 on the tree to a floor shift. Now I'm putting in an h42 and split case.

But a little bit of aluminum plate will do a lot to fill the gap.

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A little more progress. Dual 2" exhaust with a spintech muffler was installed today. I'm getting really close to firing up the engine for the first time.

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