Rusty Wagon Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[kevinmrowland]

So that got us up and over the hill to Bend (and back) so now on to the new work.


For what it's worth, I think the body colored rocker sliders, look awful as body color, they really screw with the lines of the truck, they are on the short list to get coated black.

There was (is) still a ton of wiring to take care of, I had to do a bit of digging to figure out how to get the glow plugs set up nice and clean how I wanted (man those suckers draw a LOT of amps) ended up with a nice power relay that just fits inside my old splash guard/tackle box where the old (too small) relay and tach translator were/are mounted.

The box mounted to the aux fuse box mount:
(the rats nest of wires is slowly getting cleaner and cleaner)

Heavy cables:

The relay hiding in there:

I've been cleaning up all the wires under the hood this weekend, that is mostly done now, got rid of all the sticky old tape and convoluted tube, sleeving and heat shrink every where now, also replaced a lot of connectors with sealed weatherpack style ones. Really trying to step my wiring up a notch.

Got the winch back in place as well.

Today I did all the wires for the trailer and brake controller and the rear outlet for the fridge.
There is JUST enough room to squeeze a nice marine style outlet in here:

Makes a perfect spot to plug in the fridge and anythign else needed in the back.

...

 

[kevinmrowland]

The best news from this weekend though is that I got my cargo panels installed. At least that was a pretty straight-forward mod.

I had some scratched plastic and dinged up latches I've been saving, got the bits together today along with my old tailgate lid.

I've been making the door profiles smaller on the new panel sets, this leaves a blank spot in the front where you can stuff small things behind it in the storage cavity and it provides a place to mount things on the face, in this case, like a Co2 bracket.

Bunch of spare parts, spare fuel filter, and hitch bag:

3 gallons and 2 quarts of fluids in this side:

And the good ol' taiglate.

It for now, I was pretty happy to get that far, nice to have the panels in there now. My Mom would always make jokes about the shoemakers daughter syndrone, so it was buggin me that we had no panels.



KR

 

[franklin40]

Kevin I've been looking at your tailgate storage for a while now. one question I have bout it is this. is it strong enough for a 200 pound guy to stand on on a regular basis without bending? I use my tailgate a lot to load up my roof rack. I love the idea and look of the storage, I just would hate to warp it the first or second time I stood on it. the rest of your truck looks awesome by the way. nice work!!!

 

[tat2matt]

Kevin I've been looking at your tailgate storage for a while now. one question I have bout it is this. is it strong enough for a 200 pound guy to stand on on a regular basis without bending? I use my tailgate a lot to load up my roof rack. I love the idea and look of the storage, I just would hate to warp it the first or second time I stood on it. the rest of your truck looks awesome by the way. nice work!!!

260 I stand on mine all the time. You may be suprised just how badass they are but then again you have seen how Kevin builds trucks. BADASS!

 

[yooper]

so nice

questions:

Is there no boot on your parking brake bell cranks? Is that on purpose; do you get less corrosion if you leave them off? Such a constant headache those stupid things are.

Where do you get that wire sleeving?

 

[Trapper50cal]

Kevin I've been looking at your tailgate storage for a while now. one question I have bout it is this. is it strong enough for a 200 pound guy to stand on on a regular basis without bending? I use my tailgate a lot to load up my roof rack. I love the idea and look of the storage, I just would hate to warp it the first or second time I stood on it. the rest of your truck looks awesome by the way. nice work!!!

All day long, it actually makes the tailgate MORE rigid. Even with the tailgate filled to the brim with 50-60lbs of stuff, mine held me regularly (280lbs.)

 

[kevinmrowland]

....... is it strong enough for a 200 pound guy to stand on on a regular basis without bending?......

Matt and Trapper beat me to the punch, but, as they mention, yup.
They are built to be stronger than the factory gate, I actually made the first one in order to pull my bent tailgate back into shape. You and a few friends can stand, sit, jump on there to your hearts content.

Is there no boot on your parking brake bell cranks? Is that on purpose; do you get less corrosion if you leave them off? Such a constant headache those stupid things are.

Where do you get that wire sleeving?

They still have the OE boot on there if you look close Sean. If you remember way back to your 62 days the bellcranks only have a small boot over the lower portion of the mount, not like the full boots on later model cruisers.
People out here probably have no idea what a pain those things are, seizing up all the time, frozen/rusted cables (that is why the handle cup is underneath, easy to pull for that constant maintenance.
I have tried just about everything I can to get those things to last, but it seems like if you get 4 years out of them you are doing good. I have not actually tried just leaving the boot completely off though....... I wonder if that would work.


As for the sleeving, I shopped all over the place but it ends up that Mcmaster is only a few cents more expensive than most, and I am already always ordering stuff from them anyway so the shipping is a wash.
McMaster-Carr
I have a whole collection of sizes and it's super nice since it just expands enough to go over the connectors and then shrinks back down to hug the wires. I really like using it, and the mesh means that it doesn't hold water and corrode the wires faster.


.

 

[yooper]

They still have the OE boot on there if you look close Sean. If you remember way back to your 62 days the bellcranks only have a small boot over the lower portion of the mount, not like the full boots on later model cruisers.
People out here probably have no idea what a pain those things are, seizing up all the time, frozen/rusted cables (that is why the handle cup is underneath, easy to pull for that constant maintenance.
I have tried just about everything I can to get those things to last, but it seems like if you get 4 years out of them you are doing good. I have not actually tried just leaving the boot completely off though....... I wonder if that would work.

My best results have been from spraying WD40 in there fairly often. I really don't think the boot is the problem, it's the overall design and the dissimilar metals.

My UZJ100 has the same stupid design.

I was considering trying FluidFilm™...

As for the sleeving, I shopped all over the place but it ends up that Mcmaster is only a few cents more expensive than most, and I am already always ordering stuff from them anyway so the shipping is a wash.
McMaster-Carr
I have a whole collection of sizes and it's super nice since it just expands enough to go over the connectors and then shrinks back down to hug the wires. I really like using it, and the mesh means that it doesn't hold water and corrode the wires faster.

Perfect! I order from them all the time too. Since they are close to me I usually have my order within two days. I really like the looks of that stuff and have always hated the corrugated plastic...

Which specific one are you using, the flame retardant Halar mesh?

 

[yooper]

What brand is this tie down rail system?

 

[kevinmrowland]

My best results have been from spraying WD40 in there fairly often. I really don't think the boot is the problem, it's the overall design and the dissimilar metals.

My UZJ100 has the same stupid design.

I was considering trying FluidFilm™...

Yeah, it sucks, but if you are not in the salt it doesn't seem to be an issue.
I thought the 100 at least had a much larger boot that went over the whole thing?

Perfect! I order from them all the time too. Since they are close to me I usually have my order within two days. I really like the looks of that stuff and have always hated the corrugated plastic...

Which specific one are you using, the flame retardant Halar mesh?

It's so easy to get spoiled, I get pissed off out here since it takes 3, sometimes four days to get my Mcmaster packages. Where we were before if I had my order in by 4:30 in the afternoon it was at the shop by 10am the next morning. That was nice.

I just get the standard expandable mesh sleeving, I like it just fine. You are supposed to cut it with some kind of hot-knife which does a better job, but I just flame the ends and it works great.
The wrap around sleeving on that page is great stuff as well, I used pieces of that to replace stuff under the dash where I had to remove the old factory stuff.

What brand is this tie down rail system?

Macs.
I've wanted those for years, really nice setup but the cost adds up quick. I finally bit the bullet with this rebuild and went for it. They have all kinds on hooks and rings and you can put them just where you need them. I really like their little puck plates as well, just hold one tie down and are pretty low profile when not in use.
There are some other similar brands that would save you a few dollars, but the stuff right from Macs is really good quality.

 

[yooper]

Yeah the 100 has a bigger boot, but it still seizes up if you don't lube it constantly.

I need to install a rail system in my pickup. Mac's it is.

 

[ForealBoreal]

holy buckets this build is great.
Keep up the good work Kev!

 

[MERSAD]

briliant
you are pro rebuilder with good tools

 

[MERSAD]

How did you separate the body from the chassis
it need to any crane or tools?
please explain

thanks

 

[kevinmrowland]

briliant
you are pro rebuilder with good tools.
How did you separate the body from the chassis
it need to any crane or tools?
please explain

I wouldn't go that far, nothing in my garage is that far out of the ordinary (I do have a very nice welder, but that did not come into play that much with this project) and I make my fair share of mistakes and f-ups, so definitely not pro.

I talked about the frame/body separation earlier in the thread, I just used an engine hoist, worked great, if a bit slow and tedious.

KR

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Great job Kevin.. Keep it up...

J

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Macs.
I've wanted those for years, really nice setup but the cost adds up quick. I finally bit the bullet with this rebuild and went for it. They have all kinds on hooks and rings and you can put them just where you need them. I really like their little puck plates as well, just hold one tie down and are pretty low profile when not in use.
There are some other similar brands that would save you a few dollars, but the stuff right from Macs is really good quality.

Is that one of the VersaTie kits?

Sent from my thing with Woody's junk.

 

[TS888]

Macs.
I've wanted those for years, really nice setup but the cost adds up quick. I finally bit the bullet with this rebuild and went for it. They have all kinds on hooks and rings and you can put them just where you need them. I really like their little puck plates as well, just hold one tie down and are pretty low profile when not in use.
There are some other similar brands that would save you a few dollars, but the stuff right from Macs is really good quality.

The stuff from US Cargo Control is exactly the same quality, and much cheaper.

L Track Tie Down - Airline Track Cargo Tie Down Rails & L Track Straps

 

[samguert]

Very nice build! I love this color!

 

[NorCalBorn]

Kevin,

FWIW, I blame you for the following.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/584166-2nd-gen-4runner-rain-gutter-maintenance.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...er-question-found-under-my-dashpad-today.html


Thanks for the reminder(s), er, inspiration.