My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1..... (1 Viewer)

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Thanks for the motivation to rebuild mine and put it in my 80.
Its in the 8274 in an ARB thread.
I put in 1 grease nipple and a 1/4BSPT fill and drain plug in the sides top and bottom.
Cheers
Matt
 
Thanks for the motivation to rebuild mine and put it in my 80.
Its in the 8274 in an ARB thread.
I put in 1 grease nipple and a 1/4BSPT fill and drain plug in the sides top and bottom.
Cheers
Matt


Good job Matt, glad it all worked out for you.

I am happy to see more and more folks undertaking a rebuild of their 8274.

The 8274 is a rugged winch, not difficult to work on...and worthy of being "freshened up" every 30 yrs or so. ;)

Not the perfect winch for every application....but a darn good one...for most of us.

Flint.
 
I have a leak out of my drum. Part # 8660 includes the seal and would fix my problem. Is there anyway around buying this $30-$40 kit to seal up the drum? Just wondering...
 
I have a leak out of my drum. Part # 8660 includes the seal and would fix my problem. Is there anyway around buying this $30-$40 kit to seal up the drum? Just wondering...


You most likely only need the seal. If the drum bushings are worn...most of the time you can reuse the old ones by turning them around. Most of the wear will be to the part of the bushing toward the front of the winch.

If you KNOW you only need the seal, just buy it separate.

Example:

Amazon.com: WARN 7612 SEAL,OIL RADIAL,M8274: Automotive

Note: You'll need to know in what "range" of serial numbers your winch is.
 
Thanks. No amazon at work; I will check when I get home.
 
Does anyone know or has anyone tried to use the older solenoid cover from an 8274 on a the newer version of the winch M8274-50?
 
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My WARN 8274 Rebuild

My WARN 8274. For starters it is a First Gen with the round clutch knob and the chrome remote socket cover. It was advertised as works but required jumping of the terminals since it was missing a solenoid. It arrived and I took the upper assembly off and found a lot of rust with quite a bit of pitting on the main gear and the gear it mates to. Enough pitting that it would be a bad idea to continue the rebuild without replacing the main gear along with the others with significant pitting. I put in a few calls to various WARN parts places. All said the same thing including WARN Customer service. We can only sell you the complete upper assembly. We cannot sell you just the parts you need. For now all I need is the main gear and the needle bearings or a substitute for them. The exploded diagram states; "Item 8 (Includes item 9 and gears) Note: (In bold print and CAPITALIZED no less) [FONT=&quot]DUE TO TECHNICAL ASSEMBLY REQUIREMENTS, THE UPPER HOUSING AND CLUSTER GEARS ARE NOT SOLD SEPARATELY." [/FONT] By the way, I know some fairly inept mechanics that can pull off the removal and install of the main gear and shaft in the upper assembly. I then proceeded to call 4wheelparts.com (I was referred to them by the WARN rep I had been talking to.) the part 9285 could be ordered directly from warn mind you for @ $255.00 to my door. Ok I had found a solution as far as I was concerned. But, I dug a little bit more... I remember some stuff about GigglePin Mods when I was poking around on the net one evening. I went to there web site and found exactly what I was looking for only I cannot afford to buy it from them and have it shipped here to the sho-me state. The mod parts they have are staggering. They have a simple fix for my need of the needle bearings and main gear heck they have several different ratios available and all types of trick stuff. If anyone knows of a place where I can get the correct Bronze bushings for this with a single main gear for my old warn 8274 I would much appreciate it. Otherwise I will be forced to measure the I.D. and O.D. of the bushings I will need and go on a bushing safari. [I would insert a hunting smiley face here if they had one]
Please send me all the info you have on this subject.
Oh, now that I am successfully vented. I also have an old WARN 5687 that I have converted to a bi-directional motor and some other tweaks.
 
Removing gears from upper housing?

I'm going through a full rebuild of an 8274 in pretty bad shape, and am wanting to bead blast all the parts as you did. I've read that the gears in the upper housing are suspended by needle bearings (mine still spin), but am wondering how you remove these. I'm assuming I just drive out the shafe, but am curious if it matter from which side etc (obviously being careful not to loose the needles). Also, did you remove the bearing from the end of the main (brake) shaft when you blasted your housing?

Thanks!
Tucker
 
8274 rebuild

first of all i have to say that this is a very helpful thread. thumbs up to FLINTKNAPPER and also to those who have contributed...

i also recently decided to rebuild my 8274 and took everything apart...the winch is in good condition aside from a few corroded parts which i intend to replace. any info as to the part # and as to where i can soure these parts will be highly appreciated :)

the parts that have corrosion are the pin and the gear which are inside the upper housing. the pin or shaft goes through the housing which holds the gear in place...may i know the part # of the shaft/pin and the gear? i cant seem to find it online. by the way the serial # of my 8274 is 341028
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thanks in advance
 
Warn only sells the top housing as a complete unit. You cannot buy the shaft and/or gear separately. You can buy the bearing from any bearing supplier.
 
I'm going through a full rebuild of an 8274 in pretty bad shape, and am wanting to bead blast all the parts as you did. I've read that the gears in the upper housing are suspended by needle bearings (mine still spin), but am wondering how you remove these. I'm assuming I just drive out the shafe, but am curious if it matter from which side etc (obviously being careful not to loose the needles).
Thanks!
Tucker

A bit late but:

The needle bearings are a caged type so the needles won't fall out. It does not matter which way you force that shaft out. When I blasted mine I completely disassembled it.
 
Warn only sells the top housing as a complete unit. You cannot buy the shaft and/or gear separately. You can buy the bearing from any bearing supplier.

Thanks for the reply...i guess i would have to use the old parts first....Based on the pics, wil they still make do?

And regarding the needle pins, i noticed one or two fell of inside the gear when i removed the shaft but i diidnt lose them...would there be a problem or difficulty in putting it back?
 
WARN 8274 rebuild

Heres a video I took from last weekend of a 8274 with the brake exploding problem, truck is a Nissan Patrol, we think it got a bit wedged in the bank and got a bit overstressed. the winch was on his V8 FJ40 and worked ok

YouTube - ‪BYE BYE WINCH !!!!!!!‬‏
 
Got mine rebuilt thanks to this write up! great job. only question I have is can you bypass the conroller and use a jumper wire or something to run the winch? I have everything hooked up and I have nothing working. I have brand new solenoids and brand new motor. wondering if my controller is shot. Also I can't use another controller since mine is hard wired to the solenoids thanks to the previous owner.
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Got mine rebuilt thanks to this write up! great job. only question I have is can you bypass the conroller and use a jumper wire or something to run the winch? I have everything hooked up and I have nothing working. I have brand new solenoids and brand new motor. wondering if my controller is shot. Also I can't use another controller since mine is hard wired to the solenoids thanks to the previous owner.


Would need to see how you have your solenoids wired, pop the cover and post a pic. Nice work on your restoration.
 
Flint,

Do you have any detailed pics of the disassembled brake assembly?

I'm having a very hard time getting the brake disks off the shaft and I'd like to see what the insides look like to know what I'm working with? I've removed the snap ring and the ratchet disk spins freely between the disk plates.


If I didn't hear the ball bearings rolling around completely dry of any grease, I'd just put it back on and use it. I can see what looks like more than 1/8" brake material between the disk plates and the ratchet disk. I just don't want to get it this far apart to leave the BBs rolling around w/ out any grease.

After the brake assembly, I just need to get the clutch assembly moving freely and I'll be on the way to re-assembling this puppy.

Thanks for all you help and comments.

Thanks Flintknapper so much for this thread it inspired me to pull the trigger on and clean up a 8274. I too found that the hardest part was removing the brake assembly. You mentioned taking some emory cloth and sanding down the shaft. I think this is very key, even before trying to remove the assembly. Mine was an 83or93 model and there was some rust. I ended up taking mine to O'Reilys Auto Parts and they just let me work on it there on their bench.

I used the 3 prong puller. I think it was the 2 ton not sure. I cranked on it so much, I was sure it was going to snap the aluminum disc in half. It was all or nothing at that point and what I found worked was hitting the tension screw? with a hammer. Not hard but I kept tapping until a very loud noise happened. It only moved it about 1/8th an inch. I repeated this process 3 times until it finally wrench cranked off.

Just my 2 cents, I hope it helps someone.

I took my winch into their store in one of the oil drain buckets and struck up a conversation with the people there. Just an idea, but if you have a relationship with your local parts guy... they might let you use the tool there for free.
pully.jpg
 
Big thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I rebuilt my 8274 using this. Now that it is all back together I have a question on the brake travel. Specifically the axial movement of the brake. Mine seems to have a lot of travel and if I look down into it at the friction rings I can see that the bearings tend to fall down and collect in the lower portion of the space. The gap is wide enough that the bearings no longer run inline in a ring but sort of zig zag around the space. The top one falls over to the other side as I turn the ratchet ring by hand because the rest are a bit bunched up at the bottom. The brake does seem to behave properly on the bench. If someone could look at theirs and let me know how it behaves or measure the travel of the inner brake disk it would be very much appreciated.
Chris

EDIT: Looking at the parts diagram, I seem to be missing the item 50, P/N 37472, Spring, Disc Belleville. The disc spring goes under the retaining ring, however I've never seen it installed on a winch in all the searching I have done on the web. Any ideas?
Chris

EDIT: figured it out.
 
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