destins 1964 fj40 FST restore thread (1 Viewer)

[IDave]

Try to get an induction (adjustable) timing light. They really help in setting the advance.

Your backfire leaving your ears ringing is alarming! Is it though the exhaust or through the carburetor?

I think you are correct to start looking at your timing. Also, check that your distributor is not loose, or worn (grab the rotor with the cap off and see if there is wobble).

Lean condition can also cause backfire, say a clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump.

You can use an ohm meter (multimeter) to check your spark plug wires for problems.

I doubt your plugs need replacing but you can check them (post a picture) to see if you are running lean or rich.

You also might check and see if your distributor advance diaphragm is functioning (just suck on the hose while checking the timing to see if it functions at all).

Clean your plugs with a wire brush.

You can set the points gap and timing separately. No order critical. Inspect your points for evidence of burning.

I would look for carbon around the manifold gasket to find an exhaust leak. (It is hard to see the rear and underside).

 

[AATLAS1X]

I fell asleep last night by 6, so quick read through.

I think the timing should be bumped up a few * from fsm. That's just me.

The cap that was on there is NOT OE and the clips do not have a positive snap when put into place on cap. ie if you fxxx with it pop off. So I recommend OE cap, and wires. The plugs could be fouled as she is running real fat and killing every bug in the shop.

Why it runs like s*** cold, no idea. as there is NO exhaust leak, or vacuum leak that I could tell. If it ran good before it should run the same.. If not, then I would point at the dist as possible go with Troleholes?

The points that came off were rounded and it was very hard to start, it bump starts warm easier than my 100.

What if you let it warm up to 180* then drive it?

 

[JohnnyC]

destin sounds like you had replaced the points once...am i right?

what do they look like now are they pitted? had you replaced the condensor also?

as shane said replace the cap with oe...you can check the wires with an ohm meter..probably ok...but...oe wires look better anyway

also as shane said bump up the timing a few deg.

 

[AATLAS1X]

I still think that cap is a problem, Destin go pop the hood engine off and see if you can move the cap, not tear it off, but to check if the ear clip came off. If so, that's it if she ran fine when you left.

 

[destin]

I still think that cap is a problem, Destin go pop the hood engine off and see if you can move the cap, not tear it off, but to check if the ear clip came off. If so, that's it if she ran fine when you left.

coool will do bro


Thanks for the help again, sorry guys, I know it is something dumb I am doing probably.

I am making a list and heading to the auto store.

Will any auto store have the OE plugwires and cap? or jsut toyota?

Thanks guys

 

[destin]

I still think that cap is a problem, Destin go pop the hood engine off and see if you can move the cap, not tear it off, but to check if the ear clip came off. If so, that's it if she ran fine when you left.

Dude your avatar is hung-kung-fooey yeah?

Badass

 

[destin]

destin sounds like you had replaced the points once...am i right?

what do they look like now are they pitted? had you replaced the condensor also?

as shane said replace the cap with oe...you can check the wires with an ohm meter..probably ok...but...oe wires look better anyway

also as shane said bump up the timing a few deg.

Coool, on it guys

Thanks again everyone

 

[destin]

ok off to get an induction( adjustable ) timing light and some new wires and caps etc.

I let ya all know how it goes.


Thanks for the phone number of that old mech/tech Shane!

 

[wesintl]

print off a couple pages of the tuning from pdf off the link i poste to treeroots site for the engine manual. read through and start tuning. like somone previously noted while there are great old skool mechs out there you will want the knowledge to tune this and keep it running. It's really basic troubleshooting and that manual is key. you can do it.

 

[IDave]

You will be able to get a cap and rotor from a parts store very much like OEM, and it will probably fit just fine, assuming your parts monkey knows their job. But I like that the OEM caps are marked with the plug/wire number. Parts store are not.

I run my f135 with 5 degrees advance beyond factory, so 12 degrees total BTDC. Many people seem to end up around that.
Even newly rebuilt it just seems to end there and like it using the advance to ping under load method. Now, I live at elevation and you may not have the same experience where you live.

 

[destin]

You will be able to get a cap and rotor from a parts store very much like OEM, and it will probably fit just fine, assuming your parts monkey knows their job. But I like that the OEM caps are marked with the plug/wire number. Parts store are not.

I run my f135 with 5 degrees advance beyond factory, so 12 degrees total BTDC. Many people seem to end up around that.
Even newly rebuilt it just seems to end there and like it using the advance to ping under load method. Now, I live at elevation and you may not have the same experience where you live.

none of the parts stores have it

I have an extra dist with a cap and rotor, no idea if any of it is good or works.
Guess i could call toyota

 

[ocdbeetle]

make sure they check the newer years that use the same f engine......up through 72ish.....I can't get parts for my 65 from parts houses but the same engine/parts are in a 70 or so and they can find that in their computer......

If the old distributor cap isnt overly worn or dirty put it on.....see what happens

 

[Icantdive55]

Destin, not sure if this has been covered but.....

The OE cap is numbered for a reason. If you fiddle with the cap or wires make sure the cap goes back on right, it's tight and the numbers on the cap go to the correct cylinders. Cross up 2 of the wires and it will run but it will run BAD. Also don't have any unnecessary crossing of the plug wires.

Good luck and keep at it. You'll be glad you did.

Rod

 

[whitey45]

Destin, I would pop the top off the carb and see how much sand is in the bottom of the bowl.I'd be willing to bet the sand demons are having there way!Just a thought....Quit smoking 5 years ago,best thing I ever did,but the first couple months are brutal,hang in there,the longer you go without the easier it gets,hardest part is drinking without

 

[BJEC69]

I had a similar problem, and my distributor clamp kept coming loose, and screwed up the timing. Good luck with the no smoking. I too am struggling to stay smoke free. I'm glad I never got hooked on coke. I hope you are sucessful at beating both. Brendon

 

[JohnnyC]

good for you destin....

i quite smoking 3 times

the last time i didnt use the patch...cold turkey...been smoke free for 11 years

too bad my teeth arent as white as the smilies face...too much coffee

boy this is going way off track...get that thing running and enjoy it...when i felt like freeking out...i would go for a ride

 

[dkroth]

Destin, I used this trick to diagnose a bad wire on a '74 Dodge a few years ago.

Find a DARK place after sunset. Dark as in ... you can see the Milky Way. Let your eyes adjust to the darkness - no headlights, no street lights and no moon. Start the truck and let it idle. Open the hood and examine the cap and spark plug wires. If you have any weak points they will glow light blue. When did this on my Dodge there was an obvious crack indicated by a bright blue streak coming out of the side of the wire.

This may not tell you anything, but it's free, quick and easy!

 

[destin]

Thanks guys

Quiting smoking is a bitch haha
But it will get better

Checked over all the wires and order of the wires etc, all were correct.
Ordered some new wires and cap etc.

Having A buddy of Shane's look the engine over, check compression and basics and see if I am not just missing something simple. It might even be a bad distributer, who knows, we will see what happens.


::fingers crossed::

After it is sorted I am gonna have him show me how to maintain and adjust the points/timing and valves myself. I am a pretty visual person, need to see s*** done in order to fully get it. FSM helps understand it, but seeing it done is way more helpful.

Anyway guys wish me luck hehe.

 

[destin]

bad news

cylinders 1-5 have 80-90 pounds, cylinder 6 has 150 pounds...

Means engine rebuild yeah?

LAME

 

[Living in the Past]

Put a little oil in the cylinders and test again. If it improves a bunch then it's the rings if not then it in the valves. Would be easier to have the head rebuild than the bottom end. If it is in the head there are other things to try before pulling the head like checking the valve adjustment.