Builds 1965 FJ40, What Have I Gotten Myself Into? (1 Viewer)

[igotta40]

Well, today is the day I get hitched. I'm pretty stoked to marry the love of my life. While I wait for my friend to get here with the trailer, to bring the FJ40 to the venue; I wanted to post some awesome pictures of my grooms cake from last night. My mother did an awesome job with it.

View attachment 2830450

That’s cool, I also had a FJ40 grooms cake, chocolate!

 

[RevISK]

Great thread. Inspiring.
Go on with your bad self…

Thank you

 

[Krondor]

Well between family activities, losing the underground neutral line to my shop and my trucks master cylinder/brake booster failing on me. I've been a little busy.

Good news is, I've been having fun with my family, I burried new 2" conduit and ran a new power line to the sub panel, and I replaced the master cylinder/brake booster.

The even gooder news is that I had some time to work on Flora-Jean!

Huge shout out to @Cruiser Cult for the most excellent horn contact ring and brush. You can buy yours here:

63-72 FJ40 FJ45 horn contact ring and brush

Chances are your horn contact seat, brush and isolator are rusted and broken at this point in history! We are very pleased to offer a reproduction FJ40 FJ45 Land Cruiser horn contact "seat" , brush and rubber isolator! We designed and made these in house with pride. These are made out of thick...

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Super easy install.

I did a light sanding on the hon spring/center cap holder so contact would be made.

And now she looks and sounds like a million bucks!

Also shout out to @Racer65 for the excellent horn relay to make things honk.

Horn Relay for Early Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ55 FJ25

12v horn relay for '58 to '69 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40, FJ55, FJ25. Direct replacement for discontinued part # 86530-20031.

www.cityracerllc.com

Next up... Maybe finish the sniper install... Only time will tell.

 

[Krondor]

Before I got the Holly Sniper EFI system. I switched my throttle actuation method from a linkage to a cable. I made the swap to simplify the system and eliminate the throttle "sticking" that I had. The linkage was just too worn out and would sometimes stick to the ground on full acceleration.

Anyways, This also made my sniper throttle more difficult to hook up. The system is really built for a linkage. However I like to make things more difficult for myself so I kept the throttle cable. This also kept me up at night trying to figure out how to make it happen....

Finally, I came up with a plan a few nights ago. And with Fathers day on the horizon, I knew I had some time to put my plan into action.

This is currently just a prototype lever. I will make a more heavy duty and refined version further down the road once the sniper is up and running.

Instead of pulling up on the arm, and creating a harsh bend in the throttle cable, I went with an adapter arm to allow me to pull downward.

I used a lokar WCA-1034 cable fitting to adapt the cable to the adapter arm.

I did have to drill a hole into the sniper throttle lever so that I had a method to attach the new adapter arm with a bolt.

The proof of concept worked great! I might add an additional spring somewhere either on the pedal or at the sniper to increase the pedal push force. That is not a huge priority but more of a comfort item to tune the system into my liking.

 

[Krondor]

Next up was the O2 Sensor port.

The sniper system came with a bolt on O2 port.

I initially installed that but it looked bulky and I had a welder so....

And then the temperature sensor.

The holly sniper temp sensor uses a 3/8 NPT thread while the drain port on the lower side of the motor uses a 3/8 BSPT thread.

I had to use an adapter,
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Next up... Fuel.

 

[Krondor]

Well I can confirm its true. Time does fly by.

From my sons birth, to a year later where he can sit and start playing on the Land Cruiser.

To him standing and running around.

A keen eye will notice the lack of movement and large collection of dust on the vehicle.... Whoops. I need to get Flora Jean running again. Maybe by the time Marshall is able to drive, I'll have everything put back together. haha!

I finally think I figured out the fuel system. The fuel return was the biggest issue. I didn't want to drill into the original fuel tank to install the fuel return line or an internal fuel pump. So I am going with an external fuel pump, A Walbro GLC611. and Teeing, well Y-ing into the fuel fill vent line. If anyone has experience with that and lets me know it's not a great idea, please feel free to speak up.

Now that I have most all the components, I have no excuse to install it... right guys... right?

 

[KennyBob]

Well I can confirm its true. Time does fly by.

From my sons birth, to a year later where he can sit and start playing on the Land Cruiser.
View attachment 3806199

To him standing and running around.

View attachment 3806202 View attachment 3806203

A keen eye will notice the lack of movement and large collection of dust on the vehicle.... Whoops. I need to get Flora Jean running again. Maybe by the time Marshall is able to drive, I'll have everything put back together. haha!

I finally think I figured out the fuel system. The fuel return was the biggest issue. I didn't want to drill into the original fuel tank to install the fuel return line or an internal fuel pump. So I am going with an external fuel pump, A Walbro GLC611. and Teeing, well Y-ing into the fuel fill vent line. If anyone has experience with that and lets me know it's not a great idea, please feel free to speak up.

View attachment 3806195

Now that I have most all the components, I have no excuse to install it... right guys... right?

Right!

I’m not sure if y-ing into the vent is wise or not. I suppose that depends on the volume of fuel being returned and whether or not its enough to keep the tank from venting properly. I can offer a possible alternative though. On my previous setup I ran the return line to the filler neck.

 

[Krondor]

@KennyBob I looked back in your thread. That looks like more elegant solution! I may follow your suggestion. Thank you!

 

[KennyBob]

@KennyBob I looked back in your thread. That looks like more elegant solution! I may follow your suggestion. Thank you!


View attachment 3806210

That's the one! It worked well the whole time I had it that way, plus it was relatively out of sight. I've since converted to an in-tank pump so the return goes to that now. I just couldn't find an external pump that didn't sound like a big drone taking off. In-tank pump is a lot quieter but still noticeable unfortunately. Just the reality of an electric pump inside a tin can inside another tin can I suppose. Again, I have no idea if using the vent tube is a problem or not so don't take what I say as gospel on that. Anxious to see how yours turns out!

 

[Krondor]

It has been a busy first quarter of the year. With the weather getting nicer and having the afternoon off, I decided it was time to work on the half doors... again. Looking back, it only took 4 years to jump back on them. I finished up the welding and grinding. Now time to sand down, prime, and paint.

 

[Krondor]

I jumped back on the Sniper install this weekend. Managed to get it mostly installed and wired up. Pictures to follow soon.

The fuel system is the last item yet to fall but I did make progress on it.

Starting with the fuel return. I took @KennyBob lead and altered my filler neck to allow the fuel return to enter there. I did make a slight modification and welded a 6an fitting to a bent piece of tubing that would help direct the flow into the tank instead of dead heading into the filler neck.

I had a fair amount of trouble with the fuel lines. I purchased the nylon covered fuel line that pressed and screwed to the 6an fittings. After a few snapped fittings and a couple wonky connections, I gave up. I'll either measure and order premade lines or go with barbed fittings and hose clamps....

 

[KennyBob]

I jumped back on the Sniper install this weekend. Managed to get it mostly installed and wired up. Pictures to follow soon.

The fuel system is the last item yet to fall but I did make progress on it.

Starting with the fuel return. I took @KennyBob lead and altered my filler neck to allow the fuel return to enter there. I did make a slight modification and welded a 6an fitting to a bent piece of tubing that would help direct the flow into the tank instead of dead heading into the filler neck.

View attachment 3899369 View attachment 3899368

View attachment 3899370 View attachment 3899371

I had a fair amount of trouble with the fuel lines. I purchased the nylon covered fuel line that pressed and screwed to the 6an fittings. After a few snapped fittings and a couple wonky connections, I gave up. I'll either measure and order premade lines or go with barbed fittings and hose clamps....

View attachment 3899372

I dig it. I tried something similar with a piece of fuel line but I never really liked it.

 

[samc2447]

I had a fair amount of trouble with the fuel lines. I purchased the nylon covered fuel line that pressed and screwed to the 6an fittings. After a few snapped fittings and a couple wonky connections, I gave up. I'll either measure and order premade lines or go with barbed fittings and hose clamps....

View attachment 3899372

Don't use the cheap Chinese fittings from Amazon. This will help with installing the hose properly Koul tools

 

[Krondor]

Got the fuel pump line from the fuel tank plumbed and a temporary fuel return line plumbed… had the fire extinguisher ready and checked for fuel leaks. She started up the first time!! I was so suprised I didn’t even have the camera ready. Second start, again fired right up. Here’s the video. The idle is a bit high so I’ll need to research how to adjust idle and tune the vehicle. If you have any tricks, feel free to speak up. Cheers.

Any tips on how to start without so many cranks is also helpful. I drained my battery and a jump pack so charging now. But super excited!

 

[RevISK]

Got the fuel pump line from the fuel tank plumbed and a temporary fuel return line plumbed… had the fire extinguisher ready and checked for fuel leaks. She started up the first time!! I was so suprised I didn’t even have the camera ready. Second start, again fired right up. Here’s the video. The idle is a bit high so I’ll need to research how to adjust idle and tune the vehicle. If you have any tricks, feel free to speak up. Cheers.

Any tips on how to start without so many cranks is also helpful. I drained my battery and a jump pack so charging now. But super excited!

Sounds hearty.
Don’t those fancy things need to learn?

I’m betting the more you start the quicker it’ll start ?

 

[Krondor]

They do. Good point. Once it’s charged back I’ll play around some more and report on the status.

 

[mrboatman]

Got the fuel pump line from the fuel tank plumbed and a temporary fuel return line plumbed… had the fire extinguisher ready and checked for fuel leaks. She started up the first time!! I was so suprised I didn’t even have the camera ready. Second start, again fired right up. Here’s the video. The idle is a bit high so I’ll need to research how to adjust idle and tune the vehicle. If you have any tricks, feel free to speak up. Cheers.

Any tips on how to start without so many cranks is also helpful. I drained my battery and a jump pack so charging now. But super excited!

Turn the key on and let it cycle turn key off and then turn key on and let it cycle and start. Basically doing a double prime.

 

[Krondor]

Well I managed to track down the high idle. Turns out the cable throttle set up I came up with was keeping the butterfly valve of the sniper open slightly. Causing the engine to rev higher. I will need to cut off the mounting plate and re attach it to a higher position so there is a bit of slack in the cable.

Onto the next issue. Something that I had earlier with the SD40 but never fully addressed. My distributor seems like it is too far advanced. The timing is correct with a timing light and the BB. but the physical distributor seems to be rotated far enough that it is interfering with the oil dip stick.

 

[Pighead]

but the physical distributor seems to be rotated far enough that it is interfering with the oil dip stick.

You can "clock" the dizzy body to where you want it by pulling it out far enough to disengage the gears, move the rotor a tooth or two in the direction you want the body to go.

 

[Krondor]

I’ll give that a try. Thank you @Pighead