Hell yeah they can.
Once again the shock is limiter in rear. Thats why you remove it droop the axle further. Then you have to fight the coil out still.
Long Travel AHC (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
- Start date
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Hell yeah they can.
Once again the shock is limiter in rear. Thats why you remove it droop the axle further. Then you have to fight the coil out still.
Alright. Have not been able
To push it but just a basic flex test by my home and things are feeling wonderful.
Road manners are better than ever and I’m feeling a massive difference between each suspension mode in body roll. Sport mode at 85-90 down i70 is 100% acceptable with out a front sway bar.
Front: 24mm tundra bolt on spacer. No UCA interference anywhere and no binding. Front sway ar has been deleted and will remain that way. A more comfortable front bump has been ordered. Not necessarily to reduce compression travel…just for bottoming comfort while off-road.
Rear: 30mm of coil spacers and 1.75 inch raise of the rear shock mount (second whole). Sleeved bolt ran through. Thread exposure cut to length and the shock bushing doesn’t ride on any threads. It’s been welded in. Rear bump has been dropped one inch with a spacer and some slight hammering of inner fender in the top front to avoid any chance of rubbing. A 1in body lift would be ideal to eliminate this with chunky 35s ( next thing to figure out and order).
All in all front droop is maximized with the 24mm top spacer and the rear droops and stuffs beautifully.
Lots of fender liner clearance needed all around. This set up with +25 offset and 35 MTs a BMC is not necessary but welcomed.
This is a great low budget modification for these trucks. It drives better than ever on and off road. Quick pic at almost full droop from flex testing. This was in N not H and the front had more for sure.
A 1inch body lift and I’ll be done and ready to move on from suspension work for a while.
To push it but just a basic flex test by my home and things are feeling wonderful.
Road manners are better than ever and I’m feeling a massive difference between each suspension mode in body roll. Sport mode at 85-90 down i70 is 100% acceptable with out a front sway bar.
Front: 24mm tundra bolt on spacer. No UCA interference anywhere and no binding. Front sway ar has been deleted and will remain that way. A more comfortable front bump has been ordered. Not necessarily to reduce compression travel…just for bottoming comfort while off-road.
Rear: 30mm of coil spacers and 1.75 inch raise of the rear shock mount (second whole). Sleeved bolt ran through. Thread exposure cut to length and the shock bushing doesn’t ride on any threads. It’s been welded in. Rear bump has been dropped one inch with a spacer and some slight hammering of inner fender in the top front to avoid any chance of rubbing. A 1in body lift would be ideal to eliminate this with chunky 35s ( next thing to figure out and order).
All in all front droop is maximized with the 24mm top spacer and the rear droops and stuffs beautifully.
Lots of fender liner clearance needed all around. This set up with +25 offset and 35 MTs a BMC is not necessary but welcomed.
This is a great low budget modification for these trucks. It drives better than ever on and off road. Quick pic at almost full droop from flex testing. This was in N not H and the front had more for sure.
A 1inch body lift and I’ll be done and ready to move on from suspension work for a while.
show us that rear shock mount!
And whatever you had to do to clearance for the 24mm front spacer with the AHC hose fittings.
- Thread starter
- #205
Way to dial it in.
That rear end is all sorts of limber. What's awesome with the solid axle is that adding droop travel on one side can actually help compression travel on the other side in a flexed scenario. I was only able to measure straight suspension travel, but with the secondary mode of travel adding to compression and droop depending on what the opposite wheel is doing, probably adds a good 1" more articulation travel. Sorry if I like to geek out in numbers but I wouldn't be surprised if you're seeing 12-13" of articulated travel in the the rear.
Just don't forget, LXs are for malls.
Any concerns about extending rear breathers or brake lines or anything else with the added droop?
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Yes, you will need to extend both.
Both have been extended. Should have mentioned that…
Reference @TeCKis300 approach. I did the exact same thing. The one main addition is reassembling the coil over with the coil spun 180degrees to space it for the UCA.
@Killacaviar still bugging you for a shock mount pic.
Also, does the breather hose extension take any particular crimp tool for the weighted floating valve cap?
Also, does the breather hose extension take any particular crimp tool for the weighted floating valve cap?
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
By the way, I didn't pursue the lower shock
mount extension as I felt like 1.75" was too much which could cause shock/frame failure. I don't want to be responsible for that.
mount extension as I felt like 1.75" was too much which could cause shock/frame failure. I don't want to be responsible for that.
That's what they make bumps stops for
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Damn you, I guess I would have to include 1" bump spacers to limit my liability.That's what they make bumps stops for
If you have the shock shaft accessible I always tie a zip tie on the shaft and go out and try to compress the shocks as much as possible via flexing and super high speed full bump stop hits. Then you could determine if you have 1.75" of unused up travel for the taking. Sometimes you can even see the wear mark or dust build up on the shaft by looking closely enough.
I think @TeCKis300 has confirmed there is 2" of unused up travel for the stock shocks, but who knows what your actual dimensions are with your unique setup!
- Thread starter
- #215
From an earlier post in this thread, there's witness marks that suggest about 45mm (1.75") of travel remaining (based on my mechanically sympathetic driving style). It's likely less than that as a hard dynamic hit, possibly with axle crossed up will be max compression travel. Which is how I landed on 1" lift, to leave some margin. I'd recommend no more than 1.5" lift and even then, possibly adding a .25" spacer to the bump stop. More is fine to your point, just need bump stop spacers to protect the shocks.
I forgot if I mentioned this, but I believe the AHC shocks have an internal bottom out valving in the last 1.5" or so of travel. At least that's what it felt like when manually compressing the shock. Still need to find time to cut them apart to confirm.
I see this, then earlier today when searching I see in another post from you- that of course I cannot find now:
stock AHC
Comp 16.75" Ext" 25.5" 8.75" total
It was after @turbo8 posted his shock comp/ext dimensions.
Do you know what the difference was in measuring? Was the quoted one above from the wear marks of actual used and the other one being the "available travel" from the shock off the truck?
- Thread starter
- #217
^ Thanks @turbo8
That makes the beginnings of a rear shock database!
I'm measuring from the shaft ledge where the first washer sits, without any bumpers or shims, to the lower eyelet center
Rear Shock Extended Length (max) Compressed Length (min) Stroke (max-min) Shaft Diameter Shock Body Diameter OEM AHC 25.5" 16.75" 8.75" 1.28" (30mm) 2.14" (54.3mm) Fox 2.5 Reservoir 23.97" 15.2" 8.77" 7/8" 2.5"
Would be awesome if other have measurements to contribute.
Interestingly, I've found some data on the 100-series from this thread, and lengths seem to vary dramatically. From the 2 data samples of this thread, the 200-series rear shock length is in the upper ballpark.
Bilstein Rear BE5-2740 21.71"
Fox Rear 985-24-067 22.95"
OME Rear n101 24.02"
OME Rear 60002 24.1"
King Rear 25.11"
Icon Rear 56510: 25.67”
Fox Rear 985-24-009 26.15"
Icon Rear 57802 26.3”
Icon Rear 57802C 26.3”
OME Rear 60071L 26.50"
I found the link to the data and the confusion is likely front shock vs rear shock. Bothered me enough that I had to go re-measure the rears. Looks like I embedded the wrong pics in that thread as well.
Rear AHC stock shocks with pics to confirm:
Compressed: 16.75"
Extended: 25.5"
Stroke: 8.75"
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Little update. With AHC the shock mounts should be seeing more force than a standard shock absorber. Since I wanted to make these out of 6061-T6 aluminum I fist tried a single shear design, like stock, except they are high strength steel. I wanted these to hold 4000lbs as that was what the stock ones showed to hold in simulations. These would fail under 2000lbs when made from aluminum.
So double shear it was, these will hold more that 6000lbs, it will actually hold more as there will be a grade 10.9 bolt\19mm steel spacer going through there instead of aluminum rod (this simplifies the simulation)
Moves shock mount up 1.75" (1.9" diagonal) and keeps it at the same angle as the stock mount.
Uses a 12mm bolt to keep the adapter from rotating. Pretty sure there will be enough room to hold the nut with a wrench, if not, a rivet nut can be used (not really fond of these).
I didn't want a steel bolt to thread into aluminum on this, so there is a keysert installed in the aluminum. I only had 16mm of thickness to work with so the 3/4" keysert was 12mm too long to use a 3/4-10 bolt. I had to go down to 12mm keysert which was 16mm thick. This uses a 12mm 10.9 bolt with a 19.05mm (3/4") OD spacer to fit the shock. At least everything is metric.
Thoughts?
Probably want the cost..
As is, if 5 people were to want these they would be around $600 for a set. 10 people around $400
More if I included bump spacers.
So double shear it was, these will hold more that 6000lbs, it will actually hold more as there will be a grade 10.9 bolt\19mm steel spacer going through there instead of aluminum rod (this simplifies the simulation)
Moves shock mount up 1.75" (1.9" diagonal) and keeps it at the same angle as the stock mount.
Uses a 12mm bolt to keep the adapter from rotating. Pretty sure there will be enough room to hold the nut with a wrench, if not, a rivet nut can be used (not really fond of these).
I didn't want a steel bolt to thread into aluminum on this, so there is a keysert installed in the aluminum. I only had 16mm of thickness to work with so the 3/4" keysert was 12mm too long to use a 3/4-10 bolt. I had to go down to 12mm keysert which was 16mm thick. This uses a 12mm 10.9 bolt with a 19.05mm (3/4") OD spacer to fit the shock. At least everything is metric
.Thoughts?
Probably want the cost..
As is, if 5 people were to want these they would be around $600 for a set. 10 people around $400
More if I included bump spacers.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Well you need 4 more people - I’m in like Flynn
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
Unless anyone sees something obviously flawed, I'll make a 3d print to verify fitment on Monday.
