Long Travel AHC

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This is the reason I bring this up. The Slee description only mentions the rear parts being extended…

  • DOT Approved
  • 4 Layer Construction – Teflon Inner Core, Kevlar Braid, Protective Layer and Stainless Steel Outer Line Construction
  • 2 x Rear Frame to Axle Lines – Extended Length for longer aftermarket shocks
  • 2 x Rear Caliper to Axle Lines
  • 2 x Front Caliper to Frame Lines
  • Replaces all soft lines
  • Hardware Included
 
Why would you need the lines from the axle to the calipers to be longer?

Unless your running portal axels wouldn’t that distance remain unchanged?
 
Why would you need the lines from the axle to the calipers to be longer?

Unless your running portal axels wouldn’t that distance remain unchanged?
Not for the rear, but for the front possibly.
 
This is the reason I bring this up. The Slee description only mentions the rear parts being extended…

  • DOT Approved
  • 4 Layer Construction – Teflon Inner Core, Kevlar Braid, Protective Layer and Stainless Steel Outer Line Construction
  • 2 x Rear Frame to Axle Lines – Extended Length for longer aftermarket shocks
  • 2 x Rear Caliper to Axle Lines
  • 2 x Front Caliper to Frame Lines
  • Replaces all soft lines
  • Hardware Included
Messaged Slee through their website. Their response was that the fronts are slightly longer than OEM brake lines, but that it wouldn't matter, as the front brake lines are not a limiting factor before other geometry issues arise when doing a longer travel front end.
 
It's necessary for the fronts and rears. I'll be honest I should replace my rears, but I just bent a bracket to have more slack. On my todo list. Thanks for the link above.
 
Well, in light of not finding an easy solution for extended brake lines, I just ordered the Stoptech brake line kits for LX. Stoptech say it's the same part for both Tundra and LC/LX for the rears (so maybe it's longer?) and then there are some posts in the OEM BBK thread that suggests that possibly the Stoptech brake lines for the front are longer as well. We will see, I'm not overly optimistic on either front.
 
Well, in light of not finding an easy solution for extended brake lines, I just ordered the Stoptech brake line kits for LX. Stoptech say it's the same part for both Tundra and LC/LX for the rears (so maybe it's longer?) and then there are some posts in the OEM BBK thread that suggests that possibly the Stoptech brake lines for the front are longer as well. We will see, I'm not overly optimistic on either front.
Sorry, missed this. I used a front extended set that is meant for a 100 series, but also fits the 200 series.
 
Sorry, missed this. I used a front extended set that is meant for a 100 series, but also fits the 200 series.
Well, I'll just wait and see what happens with my Stoptech lines. Maybe I'll get lucky and they will be extended by default. Otherwise, I'll look into these or the other lines for a Tundra that were referenced earlier. Ordered from Jegs, so maybe i can even return them if they aren't what i want. Or pass them along here, surely SS lines is a fairly common upgrade.
 
Nice, didn't know those those existed! Great clean way to do it.

I never got a pic of mine but I did space down the factory mount about 1/2". 1/4" spacer on each bolt that mounts to the frame. Then spaced the sway end link on the top mount with a 1/4" washer. Seems to be working well.

I take that back! Broke my rear sway endlinks this past weekend on some deep moguls. I had originally spaced the bushings down a tad which meant I put more stress on the threaded shaft. It didn't like that and probably fatigued over time, along with not enough extension.

1709230706859.webp


Fixored by cutting the shaft to the extension needed, and welding a large M10 x 60mm bolt. Note the unthreaded shoulder part of the bolt which is important for the bushings to ride on. Swapped in some freshy bushings. Used a jam nut to install at the proper 1.5" of compression. Much better.

1709230890683.webp
 
Here's a video of the LX crossing the crack on Golden Spike. Shows the pretty good flex and stuff you can get using @turbo8 shock extension, body lift, and dropping rear sway-bar bracket down (or cutting links like folks have done). The only travel lost is I use Timbren rear active bump stops, so the shock extension helps make that up and more. Excuse my poor driving.

 
Here's a video of the LX crossing the crack on Golden Spike. Shows the pretty good flex and stuff you can get using @turbo8 shock extension, body lift, and dropping rear sway-bar bracket down (or cutting links like folks have done). The only travel lost is I use Timbren rear active bump stops, so the shock extension helps make that up and more. Excuse my poor driving.


I really wanted to do this but man even in your full beast mode that front end wants to show the rock some love. Probably best I didn't...

Were you just curious if you'd make it with MTS or some other reason not to enable lockers until 0:40? For everyone who says MTS/ATRAC is good enough, lockers just walk right across this where MTS leaves your wheels braking and you bouncing around.
 
Here's a video of the LX crossing the crack on Golden Spike. Shows the pretty good flex and stuff you can get using @turbo8 shock extension, body lift, and dropping rear sway-bar bracket down (or cutting links like folks have done). The only travel lost is I use Timbren rear active bump stops, so the shock extension helps make that up and more. Excuse my poor driving.



So awesome. Swallows up even big 37s!
 
I really wanted to do this but man even in your full beast mode that front end wants to show the rock some love. Probably best I didn't...

Were you just curious if you'd make it with MTS or some other reason not to enable lockers until 0:40? For everyone who says MTS/ATRAC is good enough, lockers just walk right across this where MTS leaves your wheels braking and you bouncing around.

I try to hit most things without lockers first try just for fun, and definitely underestimated the size of the gap lol. Looking back, might have gone in a little faster to help the front passenger grip, but hit the easy button and locked it.
 
You just had the wrong MTS setting enabled. Need to go +1 up from "Rock"
1714410008473.webp
 
I try to hit most things without lockers first try just for fun, and definitely underestimated the size of the gap lol. Looking back, might have gone in a little faster to help the front passenger grip, but hit the easy button and locked it.
On a side note, why did you decide to go Tundra swap? I just ask because there seems to be some debate around the benefits if keeping the factory AHC shocks.

How do the 37's stuff in the front with the Rock Warriors and the longer arms?
 
On a side note, why did you decide to go Tundra swap? I just ask because there seems to be some debate around the benefits if keeping the factory AHC shocks.

How do the 37's stuff in the front with the Rock Warriors and the longer arms?

I would have preferred not to swap to tundra parts honestly because of how wide my front end is now, but on stock length arms the tire eats the frame on full bump/lock. Only way I could make everything clear lock to lock at bump was with Tundra arms.

Edit - front stuffs but I removed about 3” of fender and did a ton of cutting lol
 
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