Alignment Issues After Ironman 4x4 Nitro Gas Lift 100 Series (1 Viewer)

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I just installed the 2" Ironman Nitro Gas Lift -Level 3 to my '98 LX 470 and I immediately took it to a shop for an alignment. They weren't able to correct the Caster. Did anyone else struggle to align their 100 series after the Ironman lift? The shop recommends I try purchasing upper control arms. Do you recommend control arms or have a better solution to this issue?

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Assuming that your suspension bushings and joints are “good”.

One option is aftermarket control arms, that add a preset amount (typically ~3*) of caster (Nitro, Trail Tailor, Dobinsons, Total Chaos, etc), or are adjustable (SPC) and allow you to adjust camber & caster beyond the factory adjustment.

Another option would be to reduce the amount of preload on the torsion bars (read as less lift in the front).

Before you get too involved with correcting the alignment, I would verify that you still have a “reasonable” (50-75mm) amount of droop, otherwise it will still “suck”, even with the correct alignment.

Some of the aftermarket UCAs that come to mind:

SPC $978.20​
Total Chaos $874.02​
Nitro $866.24​
Trail Tailor $719.00​
Dobinsons $640 (with ball joint installed)​
Freedom Off-Road $380​
 
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Assuming that your suspension bushings and joints are “good”.

One option is aftermarket control arms, that add a preset amount (typically ~3*) of caster (Nitro, Trail Tailor, Dobinsons, Total Chaos, etc), or are adjustable (SPC) and allow you to adjust camber & caster beyond the factory adjustment.

Another option would be to reduce the amount of preload on the torsion bars (read as less lift in the front).

Before you get too involved with correcting the alignment, I would verify that you still have a “reasonable” (50-75mm) amount of droop, otherwise it will still “suck”, even with the correct alignment.

Some of the aftermarket UCAs that come to mind:

SPC $978.20​
Total Chaos $874.02​
Nitro $866.24​
Trail Tailor $719.00​
Dobinsons $640 (with ball joint installed)​
Freedom Off-Road $380​
Did you just copy and paste that from somewhere? All of the prices are wrong, the Dobinsons require an additional $70 charge to install the ball joints, the trail Taylors are out of stock, and the freedom link is broken.
 
Did you just copy and paste that from somewhere? All of the prices are wrong, the Dobinsons require an additional $70 charge to install the ball joints, the trail Taylors are out of stock, and the freedom link is broken.

Yes from one of my older posts, in a Freedom off-road UCA thread.


If you’d like to step in and chase down current links, stock levels, and pricing, step on up.
 
Another option would be to reduce the amount of preload on the torsion bars (read as less lift in the front).

Before you get too involved with correcting the alignment, I would verify that you still have a “reasonable” (50-75mm) amount of droop, otherwise it will still “suck”, even with the correct alignment.
👆🏽That’s your problem.
 
Your front is probably lifted too much. Reduce it down to 21 inches center of hub to fender.
 
Assuming that your suspension bushings and joints are “good”.

One option is aftermarket control arms, that add a preset amount (typically ~3*) of caster (Nitro, Trail Tailor, Dobinsons, Total Chaos, etc), or are adjustable (SPC) and allow you to adjust camber & caster beyond the factory adjustment.

Another option would be to reduce the amount of preload on the torsion bars (read as less lift in the front).

Before you get too involved with correcting the alignment, I would verify that you still have a “reasonable” (50-75mm) amount of droop, otherwise it will still “suck”, even with the correct alignment.

Some of the aftermarket UCAs that come to mind:

SPC $978.20​
Total Chaos $874.02​
Nitro $866.24​
Trail Tailor $719.00​
Dobinsons $640 (with ball joint installed)​
Freedom Off-Road $380​
Thanks! I want to fix the problem but not wanting to spend another grand if I can avoid it. Do you happen to know if the Freedom Off Road control arms are any good?
 
Thanks! Do you know anything about the Freedom Off Road control arms? That price is easier to swallow
I don't. I am a noob piecing together my first lift on my first land cruiser. I hadn't heard of freedom off-road until this thread. I ordered Nitro UCA's yesterday, but then saw that thread about nitro/just differentials and decided to cancel my order. I opted to go for the Dobinsons from Exit Off-Road without the ball joint install.

I would have gone with Trail Tailor if they were in stock, since I live just a couple hours south of his shop. I ordered a diff drop and sway bar end links from him two days ago and got them in the mail today, pretty sweet.

So far my lift will consist of Dobinsons for the shocks (IMS), springs, UCA's, and torsion bars, and trail tailor for the diff drop and sway bar end links. I'm sill looking for the sankei 555 lower ball joints in stock; I also need some other bushings and to reboot my cv's. Eventually I will get rear upper/lower trailing arms and an adjustable panhard bar.
 
Thanks! I want to fix the problem but not wanting to spend another grand if I can avoid it. Do you happen to know if the Freedom Off Road control arms are any good?

I have no personal experience with the Freedom Off Road UCAs, I’ve only used Nitro, Trail Tailor, and SPC UCAs. I’ve had relatively positive experiences with all three, but have my own personal preferences. In the thread that I linked above, I questioned whether the price was “too good to be true”, and wasn’t real excited about what I remember as a proprietary ball joint from the manufacturer (upstream from Freedom Off-road). There are probably people on ‘mud that have tried them by now.

Do you really want to base your purchase decision, purely on price, for one of the things that keeps your front wheel vertical, while you’re going 75mph down the freeway/highway?

If you’re really looking for the “economical” solution, without spending/wasting money, check your droop before you order the UCAs. You may have a “free” solution that just requires turning a 30mm socket (hint, hint)
 
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I have no personal experience with the Freedom Off Road UCAs, I’ve only used Nitro, Trail Tailor, and SPC UCAs. I’ve had relatively positive experiences with all three, but have my own personal preferences. In the thread that I linked above, I questioned whether the price was “too good to be true”, and wasn’t real excited about what I remember as a proprietary ball joint from the manufacturer (upstream from Freedom Off-road). There are probably people on ‘mud that have tried them by now.

Do you really want to base your purchase decision, purely on price, for one of the things that keeps your front wheel vertical, while your going 75mph down the freeway/highway?

If you’re really looking for the “economical” solution, without spending/wasting money, check your droop before you order the UCAs. You may have a “free” solution that just requires turning a 30mm socket (hint, hint)
Definitely like the sound of that! Thank you
 
I don't. I am a noob piecing together my first lift on my first land cruiser. I hadn't heard of freedom off-road until this thread. I ordered Nitro UCA's yesterday, but then saw that thread about nitro/just differentials and decided to cancel my order. I opted to go for the Dobinsons from Exit Off-Road without the ball joint install.

I would have gone with Trail Tailor if they were in stock, since I live just a couple hours south of his shop. I ordered a diff drop and sway bar end links from him two days ago and got them in the mail today, pretty sweet.

So far my lift will consist of Dobinsons for the shocks (IMS), springs, UCA's, and torsion bars, and trail tailor for the diff drop and sway bar end links. I'm sill looking for the sankei 555 lower ball joints in stock; I also need some other bushings and to reboot my cv's. Eventually I will get rear upper/lower trailing arms and an adjustable panhard bar.
Same. I’ve only owned Wranglers before entering into the Land Cruiser world. It’s much more expensive haha I love my cruiser but damn my wallet is wearing thin. I will say the Ironman trailing arms are very good quality. I bought my lift on sale which is why I went with it over Dobinson’s. I wish it included the upper control arms like the dobinsons but I’m very happy with everything else. Once I fix this, I’m trying to find dinner plate rims. Have you purchased bumpers yet?
 
Same. I’ve only owned Wranglers before entering into the Land Cruiser world. It’s much more expensive haha I love my cruiser but damn my wallet is wearing thin. I will say the Ironman trailing arms are very good quality. I bought my lift on sale which is why I went with it over Dobinson’s. I wish it included the upper control arms like the dobinsons but I’m very happy with everything else. Once I fix this, I’m trying to find dinner plate rims. Have you purchased bumpers yet?
Not yet, still trying to decide what to do. I think I will go with dissent off road for the front bumper. I live close enough to take delivery at their shop, so I will save a lot on shipping. I'm taking a six week hobby welding class starting next month, so I might try to build my own swing out bumper since there are less complex angles than the front. That and most swing out bumpers are like $2500+ fully dressed. I'm feeling confident after watching youtube videos (shout out overlandunderbudget!) I also ordered white knuckle sliders and I think I am going with a full set of slee skids. Do you have bumpers on order yet?
 
Not yet, still trying to decide what to do. I think I will go with dissent off road for the front bumper. I live close enough to take delivery at their shop, so I will save a lot on shipping. I'm taking a six week hobby welding class starting next month, so I might try to build my own swing out bumper since there are less complex angles than the front. That and most swing out bumpers are like $2500+ fully dressed. I'm feeling confident after watching youtube videos (shout out overlandunderbudget!) I also ordered white knuckle sliders and I think I am going with a full set of slee skids. Do you have bumpers on order yet?
Oh definitely do it yourself if you can. Getcha a Miller mig welder! You won’t regret it. I bought an Ironman classic with bull bar for the front. Spent a s*** ton on shipping. My Lt and I are going to build the rear with a double swing out for tire and gas cans. I wonder how difficult it’d be to cut out skids. What size tires and wheels are you running?
 
I have no personal experience with the Freedom Off Road UCAs, I’ve only used Nitro, Trail Tailor, and SPC UCAs. I’ve had relatively positive experiences with all three, but have my own personal preferences. In the thread that I linked above, I questioned whether the price was “too good to be true”, and wasn’t real excited about what I remember as a proprietary ball joint from the manufacturer (upstream from Freedom Off-road). There are probably people on ‘mud that have tried them by now.

Do you really want to base your purchase decision, purely on price, for one of the things that keeps your front wheel vertical, while you’re going 75mph down the freeway/highway?

If you’re really looking for the “economical” solution, without spending/wasting money, check your droop before you order the UCAs. You may have a “free” solution that just requires turning a 30mm socket (hint, hint)

^^^ This. My front lift is 20.9". Just a hair under 21" I don't think anybody can tell the difference. It sure rides nice with a 3" rear lift.
 
Here's a story about specialty ball joints.

A friend with a 2nd Gen Tacoma decided to upgrade to SPC control arms. Unfortunately, he farms out most of his mechanical work.
So he bought the arms following a large group of Tacoma owners that reported good results with the newly designed SPC arms.
I think he found an alignment shop to do the installation. So far so good.

He puts a lot of miles on the truck and drives in harsh off-road deep water and mud crossings often.

Roughly 18 months after purchase he noted the ball joints were worn out. WHAT?

It turns out the installer didn't tell him that SPC ball joints need to be greased. AND if you submerge your truck in water and mud, you need to periodically check your ball joints on a more rigorous schedule. The ball joints only had the factory installed grease.

I think the SPC seller made the joints good. He instructed the service center to keep an eye on greasing the ball joints.

I think that any specialty UCA with greaseable ball joints and bushings requires some level of care and understanding by the owner.

If you use your rig as a submarine or amphibious vehicle, use more care with your ball joints than driving in dry conditions.

I think it's good that we have multiple choices for UCAs that use common (easily acquired) ball joints.

The only thing I have seen when it comes to some of the lower-cost UCAs is the quality of powder coating. A crack or defect in power coating turns into a rust problem in areas with road salt.
 

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