Lift wheel alignment questions (2 Viewers)

[mp_cude]

I’m going to take advantage of the 25% off sale at Ironman and had some questions.

Initially I only wanted to go as high as a 1.5 with a Dobinson kit, however the 2” Ironman is on sale, free delivery and diff drop included for $1100.

So the question is, with a 2” lift, will I run into alignment issues with camber and caster? Or would I need to get aftermarket UCAs for proper alignment?

Is a 1.5” lift better for proper alignment without aftermarket UCAs?

I have no intention of using aftermarket UCAs and want zero compromise on wheel alignment. I’m perfectly content with replacing rear springs and torsion bars with Toyota OEM if proper alignment cannot be achieved with any amount of lift. Thank you for any help.

 

[Live to Ski]

alignment w. lift: screen the alignment shop. ask them to give you the procedure and compare to fsm. when done, get the print out of values and acceptable. they will balk, but be firm.

not a lot of shops have experience w. these rigs. ask me how I know.......

 

[mp_cude]

alignment w. lift: screen the alignment shop. ask them to give you the procedure and compare to fsm. when done, get the print out of values and acceptable. they will balk, but be firm.

not a lot of shops have experience w. these rigs. ask me how I know.......

That’s the trouble everywhere you go. I’m sure it will be a challenge wherever I decide to take it.

 

[hoser]

The front suspension has infinite height adjustment (within a range). So really, it's about the rear springs. Most try and set their rake at about 1" (1" higher in the rear). You pack up for a trip and the rake kinda levels out. A 250 lb/in spring will compress 1" for every 250 lbs weight. Multiply by 2 since there are two springs in the rear. So 500 lbs of weight over the rear axle will make the rear squat 1 inch.

The problem with 2" "lift"... it is designed for weight and nobody is carrying the same amount of weight. A 1.5" "lift" will likely yield higher results without any added weight. However, YMMV as manufacturer designs vary.

For the front suspension and stock UCA's, you would want no more than 1.5" of lift (which I think is roughly 21" or less fender to center of hub measurement) in order for the 100 to align in spec... and that is the edge of being in spec. Personally, for caster, I'd recommend the upper end of the spec or even higher than spec.

 

[mp_cude]

The front suspension has infinite height adjustment (within a range). So really, it's about the rear springs. Most try and set their rake at about 1" (1" higher in the rear). You pack up for a trip and the rake kinda levels out. A 250 lb/in spring will compress 1" for every 250 lbs weight. Multiply by 2 since there are two springs in the rear. So 500 lbs of weight over the rear axle will make the rear squat 1 inch.

The problem with 2" "lift"... it is designed for weight and nobody is carrying the same amount of weight. A 1.5" "lift" will likely yield higher results without any added weight. However, YMMV as manufacturer designs vary.

For the front suspension and stock UCA's, you would want no more than 1.5" of lift (which I think is roughly 21" or less fender to center of hub measurement) in order for the 100 to align in spec... and that is the edge of being in spec. Personally, for caster, I'd recommend the upper end of the spec or even higher than spec.

That’s good info, thank you. Setting the front a little lower will work out perfectly as I usually haul a load of kids.