Steering Flush & Cleaning (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Was changing out the starter......

BTW. I like your Macqyvering..

But do have some concern as to how far you drilled into reservoir. It's camber for reasons, of which I'm not sure of. May in part be to regulate pressure. It certainly directs flow. Notice how the cap has a stick. That stick fits into a valve. The return line feeds in that direction (flow). Then the suction tube pulls from second chamber. That second camber has a screen covering it. I'll bet your screen is very dirty, likely clogged. It is very important to health of vane pump and rack & pinion. This screen, flow and fluid all be in spec and keep clean.

Additionally. I have run engine to flush or dry out the vane pump and HP line at times, for different reasons. But it is better and safer generally, to flush just by turning steering wheel lock to lock and hold at lock. Do this engine off with tires off the ground.

Tip: Wear gloves. These fluid are not nice to your long term health.

 

[2020 Rocks]

I am pretty sure I used power steering fluid earlier in the summer when my steering rack was done, I've developed some whining from the pump. I am planning on draining and replacing with Mobile 1 ATF. Any long term damage possible from running PS fluid instead of ATF for a couple months? I'll update later today to report if the noise lessens or goes away.

 

[2001LC]

I am pretty sure I used power steering fluid earlier in the summer when my steering rack was done, I've developed some whining from the pump. I am planning on draining and replacing with Mobile 1 ATF. Any long term damage possible from running PS fluid instead of ATF for a couple months? I'll update later today to report if the noise lessens or goes away.

Short term likely no damage from PS fluid used.

I'd get flushed ASAP, and flush extra through. Perhaps 1.5 to 2 qts. I'd flush again with next engine oil change (5K miles). Than 20K thereafter.

Once reservoir screen and cambers cleaned. Flushing often, they never need cleaning again.

 

[EPTX]

Thanks to this thread, I was able to get the 2 hoses from Napa to replace my old, hard, leaky hoses. Flush went well too. Saved a lot of money by not going OEM on those hoses.

In the process, I broke the 2 hose separate clips, see pic. Does anyone know what the PN for this is? Or perhaps alternatives?

 

[golfer2000]

Paul,

How would you feel about cutting out the screen all together and running an inline Magnefine filter?

 

[2001LC]

I would not cut the screen. I clean them. Just cleaned another today. Once reservoir and screen cleaned. I just keep flushing on a regular basis with Mobil One ATF. That all that needed. Adding a filter would add nice layer of protection and extend intervals between flushes. But it creates another point that need servicing. Which is fine, as long as you own and maintain properly.

 

[Sykoslug]

Performed a reservoir rinse with kerosene, then flushed with Valvoline MV Full Synthetic PS fluid, topped with Lucas PS stop leak approx 8oz.

Flushed several times until fluid returned red instead of brown. Re-clamped hoses with ss hose clamps, and factory clamps @ nipple per instructions in post #1.

Wasn't having any steering issues, but I did notice my boots were sloppy and had about 4oz of dirty fluid when replacing my tie rod ends. Something was leaking... Hopefully this will correct that.

 

[fooldall1]

Had a "road" fix myself recently, the return "rubber" portion of the line into the reservoir finally gave up the Ghost. I replaced it with some bulk PS hose that looked slightly smaller in diameter than the original hose. No obvious problems, i think the hose I used is 3/8 (all i had in spare on the road) and I think the original is a larger diameter. Will this cause any undue "back-pressure" in the PS system I should be concerned about? I had enough length to make the turns "gentle" (No kinked hoses) and it seems fine...is this not advisable? It's holding and steering fine, BTW- No leaks. Since it's on metal, the small WORM clamp i had handy did the trick on the lower portion- and the constant-pressure clamp stays on top. I can't see any reason to buy the expensive OEM hose, at least for a while as the bulk hose is NAPA. I'm just worried about "stressing" the system because the diameter of the replacement hose is smaller (not by a LOT, but def smaller.

Performed a reservoir rinse with kerosene, then flushed with Valvoline MV Full Synthetic PS fluid, topped with Lucas PS stop leak approx 8oz.

Flushed several times until fluid returned red instead of brown. Re-clamped hoses with ss hose clamps, and factory clamps @ nipple per instructions in post #1.

Wasn't having any steering issues, but I did notice my boots were sloppy and had about 4oz of dirty fluid when replacing my tie rod ends. Something was leaking... Hopefully this will correct that.

I had the exact same issue, when i replaced my PS Pump some time ago I bought the 90.00 "intake" hose (hard pill to swallow for a small-ish hose) but did NOT change the "return" rubber. Over time, and Heat and cold, it began weeping- drip here and there and all over the LCA and CV Boot, Skid plate, etc. Once it started hitting the floor and spreading out, I was like "it's time". Went on a drive to Folk's place about 100 miles away and on the way back (dark country road) it let go.

 

[zhloea]

Hi, I just changed the two hoses and the reservoir of power steering one month ago, and I did a flush at the same time. After that, I put a little at-205 into the power steering reservoir. Then I believe I got a little whining noise consistently from the car start to shut down. I think maybe I got some air in the system even though I did the lock to lock bleeding process. That is the first time I did a power steering flush ever, may be I did a bad job, So do we think do flush again will help this issue? And will the AT-205 make the power steering stiff？ (I strictly follow the introduction, just put a little bit about 12ml)

 

[thebeedeegee]

Hi, I just changed the two hoses and the reservoir of power steering one month ago, and I did a flush at the same time. After that, I put a little at-205 into the power steering reservoir. Then I believe I got a little whining noise consistently from the car start to shut down. I think maybe I got some air in the system even though I did the lock to lock bleeding process. That is the first time I did a power steering flush ever, may be I did a bad job, So do we think do flush again will help this issue? And will the AT-205 make the power steering stiff？ (I strictly follow the introduction, just put a little bit about 12ml)

What fluid did you use? what year is your truck? AT-205 did not make mine whine or feel stiff. It did whine while I was bleeding air out though.

 

[zhloea]

Hi, I just changed the two hoses and the reservoir of power steering one month ago, and I did a flush at the same time. After that, I put a little at-205 into the power steering reservoir. Then I believe I got a little whining noise consistently from the car start to shut down. I think maybe I got some air in the system even though I did the lock to lock bleeding process. That is the first time I did a power steering flush ever, may be I did a bad job, So do we think do flush again will help this issue? And will the AT-205 make the power steering stiff？ (I strictly follow the introduction, just put a little bit about 12ml)

Thanks for the reply, I used Valvoline Max, my truck is 2004 LC100 Model. Should I switch back to OEM ATF? How you bleeding air out? the traditional lock to lock?

 

[thebeedeegee]

Thanks for the reply, I used Valvoline Max, my truck is 2004 LC100 Model. Should I switch back to OEM ATF? How you bleeding air out? the traditional lock to lock?

View attachment 2600321

That's what I used on my 1999. To bleed air I went slowly lock to lock . I had the cap off but I don't think that should matter. It took probably 3 back and forth rotations

 

[zhloea]

That's what I used on my 1999. To bleed air I went slowly lock to lock . I had the cap off but I don't think that should matter. It took probably 3 back and forth rotations

I think I will flash again this weekend to see if I still got that noise, Thanks

 

[flintknapper]

That's what I used on my 1999. To bleed air I went slowly lock to lock . I had the cap off but I don't think that should matter. It took probably 3 back and forth rotations

Same here, same fluid, same procedure. Luckily mine fired up and ran with no whining right away.

 

[Eyedaho]

Same here, same fluid, same procedure. Luckily mine fired up and ran with no whining right away.

I had good success on several different vehicles going lock to lock with the engine off and the front wheels in the air. That seems to purge out the air before the pump starts foaming it into bubbles that become harder to purge. After my recent experience with changing out my upper steering shaft, I definitely wouldn't do this with the front wheels on the ground!

 

[blinder52]

I went back and forth on fluid after changing out my hoses and reservoir yesterday. I’m trying this stuff.
Engine off for sure. Get three quarts.

 

[thebeedeegee]

I had good success on several different vehicles going lock to lock with the engine off and the front wheels in the air. That seems to purge out the air before the pump starts foaming it into bubbles that become harder to purge. After my recent experience with changing out my upper steering shaft, I definitely wouldn't do this with the front wheels on the ground!

Ah yeah I forgot, I did do it with the wheels off the ground engine off first...per 2001lc method

 

[2001LC]

Bleeding Power steering:
Engine off. Wheel up lock to lock hold 3 seconds at lock, 3 times.
Then
Engine running. Wheels down lock to lock hold 3 seconds at lock, 3 times..

Sometimes when draining system to replace rack and or lines to rack. It takes more than 3 lock to locks. But just driving the system will self bleed.

Use only ATF:
I would not put power steering fluid in. Stuff does not work well in cold system.

Drive belt and or it's pulleys whine:
You may have other pulleys whining. Pulling belt belt and checking may be revealing.


Once pulleys bearings check out, I replace belt.

While drive belt off run engine and see if still whining. If so likely a timing belt pulley bearing whine.

 

[zhloea]

Bleeding Power steering:
Engine off. Wheel up lock to lock hold 3 seconds at lock, 3 times.
Then
Engine running. Wheels down lock to lock hold 3 seconds at lock, 3 times..

Sometimes when draining system to replace rack and or lines to rack. It takes more than 3 lock to locks. But just driving the system will self bleed.

Use only ATF:
I would not put power steering fluid in. Stuff does not work well in cold system.

Drive belt and or it's pulleys whine:
You may have other pulleys whining. Pulling belt belt and checking may be revealing.


Once pulleys bearings check out, I replace belt.

While drive belt off run engine and see if still whining. If so likely a timing belt pulley bearing whine.

When we said "pull the belt" means start the engine without belt?

 

[zhloea]

I just record a sample of that whining sound I said, does this sounds like it from the power steering pump? or it just a normal working sound?

I just replaced the alternator, idler pulley and tensioner pully, so the power steering is the only reason I can think. And it is not a big sound, I can only hear it in the cab when idle or out of the cab, once start driving the road noise will cover it.