On Canadian Amazon it costs just over $300 for Dorman and OEM costs almost the same if purchased online. Dealerships must sell it even more expensive. It's better to buy 1 liter of White Gas for $17.50 and clean the original reservoir
Steering Flush & Cleaning (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2001LC
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On Canadian Amazon it costs just over $300 for Dorman and OEM costs almost the same if purchased online. Dealerships must sell it even more expensive. It's better to buy 1 liter of White Gas for $17.50 and clean the original reservoir
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I would recommend buying another off eBay. A lot of people will take them off salvage vehicles, clean them up, then resell them considering their high value. Even if it’s not clean you can still buy it and clean it yourself over a few days while still having a drivable truck, then switch it out when the time comes. Search for the part number “44360-60210” in eBay and there’re a few options that come up in the $60-80 range like this one.
Lexus LX470 Power Steering Pump Reservoir Tank w/ Bracket 1998-2007 OEM
I also remember another vehicle (Camry? Corolla??) using the exact same power steering reservoir and if you searched by filtering for that vehicle you get more options. Forgot which one though, I’ll look into it.
Lexus LX470 Power Steering Pump Reservoir Tank w/ Bracket 1998-2007 OEM
I also remember another vehicle (Camry? Corolla??) using the exact same power steering reservoir and if you searched by filtering for that vehicle you get more options. Forgot which one though, I’ll look into it.
This looks something like it. It would be interesting to see if the mount at the back is in the same location as the one for 100s. It would be good if the tank could be purchased without the overhead of having to buy another bracket.
The price difference between this and the one for a 100 makes no sense. This is priced under $70.
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- Joined
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Yeah I’ve looked at those Cardone too, seems like a good option for non-OEM item but OEM quality with a slightly lesser price. Double check the part numbers before purchasing though, the ones I found show 3R-113 to be the fit for our 100’s.
I got a used one off eBay for $60 shipped. Asked the seller to check the filter screen to make sure it was intact. Even sent me some extra photos before buying it. Cleaning up an OEM product seems the way to go to me.
The Cardone 3R113 sells for close to $100. I might check with one of my local parts store buds about a 3R108 for a Camry to see if the tank is the same as the one for a 100. The idea is to reuse the existing 100 bracket with a new Camry tank to bring the price down in the $60 range.
Hey guys,
I just cleaned and flushed with ATF. The pump still whines. I was hoping this would quiet it down. It’s not LOUD, but I can hear it when I’m moving slowly or turning when not moving. What do you guys think? Would AT-205 quiet it down at all?
I just cleaned and flushed with ATF. The pump still whines. I was hoping this would quiet it down. It’s not LOUD, but I can hear it when I’m moving slowly or turning when not moving. What do you guys think? Would AT-205 quiet it down at all?
- Thread starter
- #108
AT-205 is not going to change sound. I use mobil 1 ATF, which works very well to quiet down. But if air not bleed out, it will be loud regardless of what used.
Did you make sure screen in reservoir was clean. They can be very clogged!
Also make sure both idler & tensioner bearing are good, along with belt. Best time to check bearings is with belt off. If you spin the bearings by hand and can hear, replace. If they keep free spinning more than 1 revolution, they're shot or on the way out.
forum.ih8mud.com
PS: I replace a lot of serp belts these days. They'll squeal very often if bad, after getting wet.
Did you make sure screen in reservoir was clean. They can be very clogged!
Also make sure both idler & tensioner bearing are good, along with belt. Best time to check bearings is with belt off. If you spin the bearings by hand and can hear, replace. If they keep free spinning more than 1 revolution, they're shot or on the way out.
Idler & Tensioner Pulley Bearings, Drive belt (AKA Serpentine or fan belt)
Hey guy's anyone found a good source for the bearing of the: drive belt Idler Pulley part # 16604-0F010. The Bearing in it is a NSK BD20-15DUL: Edited 9/24/2019 Is a drive belt pulley bad: Sound is first alter bearing of pulley(s) may be going bad. To make sure which are bad remove the belt...
forum.ih8mud.com
PS: I replace a lot of serp belts these days. They'll squeal very often if bad, after getting wet.
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^^^ This on AT-205. Start with a top-end synthetic like M1. I've used a product named Lubeguard for PS pumps with LXE (whale oil substitute) in small quantities to remedy an old car's whining pump that surfaced after cleaning out some very nasty fluid. The friction modifiers in LXE helped provide extra lubricity for the old pump vanes.
Thanks for the quick replies.
yes I made sure the screen was clean. The walls of the resevoir are still pretty gunky. I may look for an eBay unit to replace that.
Good tip on the belt and tensioner. They could probably be replaced anyways. I’ll do that.
My thought process may have been a bit backwards on this process. I thought since Im probably going to do several flushes, I’d start with the cheap ORiles brand ATF then flush again with mobile 1. I’ll report back after I put a good fluid in there and check my belt and tensioner.
yes I made sure the screen was clean. The walls of the resevoir are still pretty gunky. I may look for an eBay unit to replace that.
Good tip on the belt and tensioner. They could probably be replaced anyways. I’ll do that.
My thought process may have been a bit backwards on this process. I thought since Im probably going to do several flushes, I’d start with the cheap ORiles brand ATF then flush again with mobile 1. I’ll report back after I put a good fluid in there and check my belt and tensioner.
AT-205 is not going to change sound. I use mobil 1 ATF, which works very well to quiet down. But if air not bleed out, it will be loud regardless of what used.
Did you make sure screen in reservoir was clean. They can be very clogged!
Also make sure both idler & tensioner bearing are good, along with belt. Best time to check bearings is with belt off. If you spin the bearings by hand and can hear, replace. If they keep free spinning more than 1 revolution, they're shot or on the way out.
Idler & Tensioner Pulley Bearings, Drive belt (AKA Serpentine or fan belt)
Hey guy's anyone found a good source for the bearing of the: drive belt Idler Pulley part # 16604-0F010. The Bearing in it is a NSK BD20-15DUL: Edited 9/24/2019 Is a drive belt pulley bad: Sound is first alter bearing of pulley(s) may be going bad. To make sure which are bad remove the belt...
PS: I replace a lot of serp belts these days. They'll squeal very often if bad, after getting wet.
- Thread starter
- #111
The M1 will clean the system. So just repeat in 2K miles, than 5K, than 10K thereafter.
I recently replaced the center (smaller) belt idler pulley. The bearing had become a bit noisy. I found it by listening to all of the pulley points around the belt by using a mechanics stethoscope. The old pulley made a whining noise that is similar to the sound of a whining PS pump. It actually fooled me for a couple of days until I started probing with a stethoscope.
- Thread starter
- #114
That is supposed to tell us. But is a very poor indicator. I replace a lot that are still in good range. Fact I've never seen one indicate in bad range, that I've replaced.
If belt on back side smooth. They'll almost alway squeal when wet. So I've just stop looking at the indicator. Washing radiator I get belt wet. If they squeal I replace them. If smooth on back side I replace them. I use only OEM pre may 2005 belts on all years.
- Thread starter
- #117
I suggest you go back and read the first page of this thread. But first, flush out the power steering fluid with ATF, as is printed on reservoir cap....
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Had his knee resting on it? Why?
Was changing out the starter......
