NLXTACY
Wits' End
Replacement Bolts for LANDTANK Caster Plates
Replacement Bolts for LANDTANK Caster Plates (CCP-4)
Land Tank Caster correction plates for 2.5 inch lift. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter mazder
- Start date
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Replacement Bolts for LANDTANK Caster Plates
Replacement Bolts for LANDTANK Caster Plates (CCP-4)absolute-wits-end.com
Hey,
It just occured to me... are the bolts on the frame end also one time use?
Magic Spool Bus
SILVER Star
Installing these plates now and I’m curious how can I rotate the axle down (or rotate towards the rear) so that I can line up the new holes.
Edit: never mind I didn’t sit and think long enough
Edit: never mind I didn’t sit and think long enough
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These landtank/wits end caster plates did wonders for my 2.5" OME lift...tracks so much better...
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Magic Spool Bus
SILVER Star
Wow these plates made a massive difference. +2.7 front left +3.1 on front right. 1991 HDJ81 with OME Heavies up front.
gents.
hoping to get this laid out and make sure i understand it. since i’m cutting the flange snd subce i get dyslexic with positive verses negative caster i want to get it right. anyone mind eyeballing my notes here and also a couple questions?
step.
1. undo bolts at radius arms by holding the nuts and unthreading the bolts (whats the best order?).
2. run them out to land cruiser shop for new bushings.
3. start with right or left side of the vehicle and place BOTH the outside the inside plate on the flange and mark up new SLOTTED area. i forget. i want to cut out the FRONT HOLE and rotate the axle so it can’t forward a little bit? is what is the method here? scribe the location of new hole on the bracket and run straightedge from circumference to circumference and past bottom edge of bracket? run a machinist square up from the bottom edge of the flange and to the circumference?
4. use cutoff wheel to cut two new vertical slots.
5. touch up the two new slots with the file and leave some clean surface for welding.
6. loosely bolt up the two radius arms by loosely bolting the most forward bolt at the axle first with the new plates outboard of the radius arms. then get the second bolt in at the axle. leave all four of these loose. maybe use C clamps to hold the plates on while getting the arms in place?
7. with bottle jack and come along to force the axle and the two radius arms up and slide the rear most bolt.
8. torque (whats the value again?) all six bolts to spec by holding the nut on the INNNER side of the radius arms and torquing the bolts on the OUTER side of the radius arm.
9. drive it over gently to get someone to stitch weld the plates.
10. clean up the words and hit them with black acrylic spray paint. let dry.
tools: scribe, black marker, machinists square, come along or ratchet straps, bull pin or something to shove through the bolt hole and align things, grinders with cutoff wheel, metal files, black acrylic spray paint. C-clamps?
Q1. not sure i am following the location of the new slot. is it best to use the new hole to locate this but it is the same as running a perpendicular up from the bottom edge of the flange to the circumference of the old hole/
Q2. how is everyone trimming off that little horizontal cleanly?
Q3. i'm not following why that little piece is left on in the OP's photos. would it be just as good to run the two vertical slots up all the way to the circumference and just throw those two little pieces in a box in case someone wants to go back to stock so they can weld them on? or also to avoid having to cut that horizontal?
Q4. can i paint these things? how and with what please?
Q5. what’s that little curved notch in the inside of the bracket? is it functional?
i like the paint by numbers approach since it keeps me out of trouble and i get to crack a beer an hour early.
THANKS
hoping to get this laid out and make sure i understand it. since i’m cutting the flange snd subce i get dyslexic with positive verses negative caster i want to get it right. anyone mind eyeballing my notes here and also a couple questions?
step.
1. undo bolts at radius arms by holding the nuts and unthreading the bolts (whats the best order?).
2. run them out to land cruiser shop for new bushings.
3. start with right or left side of the vehicle and place BOTH the outside the inside plate on the flange and mark up new SLOTTED area. i forget. i want to cut out the FRONT HOLE and rotate the axle so it can’t forward a little bit? is what is the method here? scribe the location of new hole on the bracket and run straightedge from circumference to circumference and past bottom edge of bracket? run a machinist square up from the bottom edge of the flange and to the circumference?
4. use cutoff wheel to cut two new vertical slots.
5. touch up the two new slots with the file and leave some clean surface for welding.
6. loosely bolt up the two radius arms by loosely bolting the most forward bolt at the axle first with the new plates outboard of the radius arms. then get the second bolt in at the axle. leave all four of these loose. maybe use C clamps to hold the plates on while getting the arms in place?
7. with bottle jack and come along to force the axle and the two radius arms up and slide the rear most bolt.
8. torque (whats the value again?) all six bolts to spec by holding the nut on the INNNER side of the radius arms and torquing the bolts on the OUTER side of the radius arm.
9. drive it over gently to get someone to stitch weld the plates.
10. clean up the words and hit them with black acrylic spray paint. let dry.
tools: scribe, black marker, machinists square, come along or ratchet straps, bull pin or something to shove through the bolt hole and align things, grinders with cutoff wheel, metal files, black acrylic spray paint. C-clamps?
Q1. not sure i am following the location of the new slot. is it best to use the new hole to locate this but it is the same as running a perpendicular up from the bottom edge of the flange to the circumference of the old hole/
Q2. how is everyone trimming off that little horizontal cleanly?
Q3. i'm not following why that little piece is left on in the OP's photos. would it be just as good to run the two vertical slots up all the way to the circumference and just throw those two little pieces in a box in case someone wants to go back to stock so they can weld them on? or also to avoid having to cut that horizontal?
Q4. can i paint these things? how and with what please?
Q5. what’s that little curved notch in the inside of the bracket? is it functional?
i like the paint by numbers approach since it keeps me out of trouble and i get to crack a beer an hour early.
THANKS
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- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
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- Boise - Idaho
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Yup.
When I do a cut & turn I set the crown side of the road about .3-.5* stronger. Obviously that is opposite side RHD to LHD.
This accounts for the crown in most roads and keeps it tracking true with a strong crown.
Cheers
gents. is there a reason to leave this little section of the plate in these cuts? looks like it makes more sense to run them both up to the bolt hole.
also was there an order for removal and reinstall if the radius arms? was it easiest to install them at the axle and to then get the rear most bolt in by forcing the arm up into place?
also was there an order for removal and reinstall if the radius arms? was it easiest to install them at the axle and to then get the rear most bolt in by forcing the arm up into place?
YES! you want to remove as little as possible so the center sleeve in the bushing has as much contact with the factory bracket as possible. Don't be sloppy! The reason is that once everything is assembled the center sleeve, factory bracket and my plates are all clamped together with the bolts. An oversized slot might allow movement between the factory bracket and center sleeve. You don't want that.
thanks.
i want to try to understand this please.
so i want to keep that slot as low as possible and as close to the bottom of the flange as possible so vertically there is as much surface remaining for the bushing to still bear on the flange laterally?
and all the vertical shear force that was taken up by the front bolt is now picked up by the two snub bossed areas on the caster brackets themselves?
so the reason to stitch weld is to keep these bossed areas engaged in the /original/ holes? so the bolt in the new location is just holding the bushing?
is that right?
also. it looks to me like kevin went down 3/8 (9.5mm) and back 1/4 (6.3mm) or something on his washer mod post and this was in order to rotate the axle. i mean i see you are moving the hole a lot more vertically which i guess i get. but all the pics of the LT/WE bracket make it look like the new slot is to be cut plumb and vertical with the original hole. like run a machinists angle against the bottom of the flange and draw a line up vertically. is that right?
i guess i am not following if this is correct since i thought the whole point was to rotate the axle. or does that only apply to the 4” plates?
i want to try to understand this please.
so i want to keep that slot as low as possible and as close to the bottom of the flange as possible so vertically there is as much surface remaining for the bushing to still bear on the flange laterally?
and all the vertical shear force that was taken up by the front bolt is now picked up by the two snub bossed areas on the caster brackets themselves?
so the reason to stitch weld is to keep these bossed areas engaged in the /original/ holes? so the bolt in the new location is just holding the bushing?
is that right?
also. it looks to me like kevin went down 3/8 (9.5mm) and back 1/4 (6.3mm) or something on his washer mod post and this was in order to rotate the axle. i mean i see you are moving the hole a lot more vertically which i guess i get. but all the pics of the LT/WE bracket make it look like the new slot is to be cut plumb and vertical with the original hole. like run a machinists angle against the bottom of the flange and draw a line up vertically. is that right?
i guess i am not following if this is correct since i thought the whole point was to rotate the axle. or does that only apply to the 4” plates?
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77mustard40
SILVER Star
The slot you are grinding is creating a new bolt path or hole on the front side of the axle. It’s lower than the old one, the axle has to rotate to get the bolts through.
I clamped my plates on and used a shot of spray paint to mark the new holes on each side. I ground my groves from the bottom trying to keep the groove the same width as the bolt diameter. As I got closer to grinding away my stencil mark, I would stop and clamp the plates back on (rear bolt in place) and look through to see what needed get ground in order to get the front bolt through. Remove the plates and grind a little more in the area that was preventing the bolt from passing through its new path or location.
Once done grinding, I wrestled the axle into place and mounted them up.
I clamped my plates on and used a shot of spray paint to mark the new holes on each side. I ground my groves from the bottom trying to keep the groove the same width as the bolt diameter. As I got closer to grinding away my stencil mark, I would stop and clamp the plates back on (rear bolt in place) and look through to see what needed get ground in order to get the front bolt through. Remove the plates and grind a little more in the area that was preventing the bolt from passing through its new path or location.
Once done grinding, I wrestled the axle into place and mounted them up.
thanks. that’s a nice method. i half think i want to try stacking and bolting your the brackets with some washers inbetween and use them as a drill bit guide or something.
on the little horizontal piece. are you angling the abrasive grinder wheel up in there to rough out that area and finish it off with a hand file?
i still think two cuts with a cutoff wheel and no little double U shaped piece at the top is a better method. it’s kind of hard to see. but that inner sleeve on the bushing puts massive forces on the flange so you need that little area? seems weird to me but i guess i can see that.
also, why does the hole drop straight down vertically? or does it?
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All you want to do is remove only what you have to do the bolt will pass through. Its not a complicated process
Drilling a hole doesn’t add a lot of strength but does add quite a bit of time.
And for the love of God, get out of your head!
And for the love of God, get out of your head!
rick.
“get out of your head” is a weird response from a guy that calculates caster angle to two decimal places (and posts it).
i’m curious about these rigs and asking questions that should have factual answers.
it’s just questions.
why does that new bolt hole get located directly (?) below the old one? or does it?! not a complicated question.
i want to check before cutting.
but also this does not seem to me to rotate the axle in a way that does not alter driveline angle. i thought this was the whole point.
but maybe someone else also knows the answer to this and can explain?
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The new bolt hole is the same distance from the rear hole as the original hole is. And do you know why, because if it wasn’t the bolt wouldn’t slide through the bushing in the arm. You literally would not be able to put your truck back together.
well this was basically the question rick.
somewhere in here someone was saying that they put a square against the bottom of the flange and aligned it with the two “ends” of original hole.
then drew two /vertical/ lines. this would not be the same distance. so it’s confusing rick. and i’m asking before i cut the flange.
isn’t this the thread you designated as the instructions for this part? i’m just trying to make sure i understand it so i have the install instructions correct on the thread that is the install thread.
on the one hand you say to keep it tight and not get sloppy with the cut and on the other i’m still a tad confused about your answer on this geometry question (which seems pretty direct).
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Just follow the instructions and don’t be lazy and take short cuts.
rick. no one is being lazy or trying to take shortcuts. we are asking you for more help with the instructions. this appears to be the place to do it.
it says “4. Grind a slot into the bracket to allow the bolt to pass through.”
it’s a complicated assembly for a lot of people. it’s not clear to a lot of people and they would like it to be clearer before cutting.
if you don’t want to answer questions that’s on you.
