Coming along nicely!
Builds Project Old Blue - 1973 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter KingAir Driver
- Start date
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KingAir Driver
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #42
Not sure how I feel about this... the PO has cut out from the radio hole all the way to the glove box. I decided to try a pre-73 lower dash pad from FJ40dash.com @fjgoober in an attempt to cover the cut-out. It looks better, but you can still see through the top. In all seriousness, it is a top-notch repro. I’ll probably get his top dash when the time comes.
KingAir Driver
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- Thread starter
- #43
A little arts and crafts tonight. Got all my knobs refreshed and lettering re-painted, looking pretty good but not @ToyotaMatt OEM shined!
EStein
SILVER Star
Definitely looks better with the trim but what the heck? Why did he do that? Are you skilled enough with the welder to put new metal back in? I know I couldn’t. Looking at the work you do I have a feeling it’s going to bug you unless you fix it right.
They Look fantastic !
you should be very proud ..............
you should be very proud ..............
KingAir Driver
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #47
Kept it simple today, did the oil change and continued to strip the dried carpet adhesive out of the bed.
KingAir Driver
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- Thread starter
- #48
Sorry @ENDO, I didn't see your question until I re-read the quote. No, they are not new. I re-freshed the originals.
1. Chucked them up on my drill attached to a punch with the knob set screw.
2. I used Flitz plastic polish, put on a microfiber and then let the drill spin the knob in the towel.
3. I got some Testers model paint, Gloss Red and Gloss White and some fine tip brushes. Paint as best you can in the script recesses.
4. It's hard to paint in the lines, so I gently ran a paper towel over the face of the knob with model paint thinner to clean the residue paint after a min of drying.
5. Re-do any spots until you're happy with the results.
Hope that helps answer your question.
1. Chucked them up on my drill attached to a punch with the knob set screw.
2. I used Flitz plastic polish, put on a microfiber and then let the drill spin the knob in the towel.
3. I got some Testers model paint, Gloss Red and Gloss White and some fine tip brushes. Paint as best you can in the script recesses.
4. It's hard to paint in the lines, so I gently ran a paper towel over the face of the knob with model paint thinner to clean the residue paint after a min of drying.
5. Re-do any spots until you're happy with the results.
Hope that helps answer your question.
Answered perfectly thank you sir.
KingAir Driver
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #50
Small dash plugs still available from Toyota. Filled in missing Choke and original plug location.
90950-01329
90950-01329
KingAir Driver
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- Thread starter
- #51
Small project today. Deconstructed my original transfer-case shift boot. ‘73 only model year exclusive. Drill out the 4 rivets holding the metal surround together then separate the bits. I cleaned up the rust and shot the metal with primer.
Next I took a new OEM 74+ Trans shifter boot assembly, still available and blew that one apart to just use the boot.
I’ll throw some black paint on next, then rivet back together.
Next I took a new OEM 74+ Trans shifter boot assembly, still available and blew that one apart to just use the boot.
I’ll throw some black paint on next, then rivet back together.
mrboatman
GOLD Star
You are doing a real nice job on this 40. It is looking real nice 
KingAir Driver
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #53
Finally got a chance to dive back into stripping the 40 year old adhesive out of the bed. Previous attempts with adhesive remover or acetone were unsuccessful. I had to get the drill and synthetic flapper discs. Took awhile, but it looks better. Just need to do the passenger side top of wheel well now. You can see the barn doors covered in it as well.
Also installed a new steering column cover. Still available from Toyota. The machine screws were M4x10 and the others were #10 pan head screws x 3/4. Definitely is shiny!
Also installed a new steering column cover. Still available from Toyota. The machine screws were M4x10 and the others were #10 pan head screws x 3/4. Definitely is shiny!
KingAir Driver
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- Thread starter
- #54
Transfer case shifter boot project complete and installed. A little mad I nicked the paint, but in the end this project is far from perfect. 
KingAir Driver
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- Thread starter
- #55
Finished up the back floors and got everything repainted. Got both front seats installed and looking pretty good. Last thing to tackle is the adhesive on the back doors. Hopefully start up is coming soon!
KingAir Driver
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- Thread starter
- #56
Got her fired up, she’s smoking pretty good too under higher idle. Thoughts?
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
KingAir Driver
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- Thread starter
- #58
It looks white, which leads me to a blown head gasket or cracked head. But when I changed the oil it smelled like gas. It has a new OEM fuel pump and spark plugs. Compression #’s all good. I think I’m going to run it some more “outside”, then check coolant levels, pull the new plugs, and check the oil. Diagnose from there...
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
If compression is good, you *could* do a leak down. A fresh oil change, new fuel pump, plugs and a tune after it’s hot, drive it a bit and break it back in some, if it’s been sitting you might get away with that for a while.
Another option is valve stem seals, you can replace those on the truck. Look at the lifters at idle and make sure you have good oil flow along the head also, if not I’d pull the rocker assembly, clean everything then do valve stem seals and reassemble.
But I’d drive it and get it hot again and see what it does after a few days of driving it regularly after a good tune and making sure vacuum looks good.
KingAir Driver
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- Thread starter
- #60
So shifting course in a new direction... I was able to pull the 40 outside and let it run for a bit. When I really rev it up, black smoke roars out of the exhaust. This engine has a Weber 38 (EMPI Spector Clone). So I'm leaning towards an over rich condition. Doing research on here, points me towards finding out what jets are installed and playing with the air-fuel ratio tuning. At the end of the day, almost wish it had a Cityracer or Trollhole carb, even a rebuilt OEM.
