Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins Common Rail + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap (7 Viewers)

[thegogglesdonothing]

I agree that a shroud can only help, but I am going to wait and see how my AC handles without the shroud before I start working on a custom one.

The cummins naturally runs cool, and that mechanical fan is massive compared to the OEM fan. For those running the intercooler up high there is additional restriction to pull air through the I/C, condensor and radiator, but I doubt a shroud will be required given the additional air volume capacity of the cummins fan over toyota fan. For those running the DA I/C down low, there is no additional restriction.

Are you having A/C issues now or is this a theoretical debate?

Thanks for the feedback. My truck is currently blowing somewhere between cool and outright hot with the slider set to 65 degrees depending on the ambient temperature of the truck (i.e. garage temp versus having sat out in the midday sun) but it's also 95+ degrees this week and an 11 on the UV index... mercifully I just got my truck back from the tint shop yesterday so now have 15% tint on the front windows, and 12% everywhere else. It's a little more murdered out looking than I'd like, but the sun out here is no joke so I'm happy to be driving in the shade!

I've apparently got leaky high and low side hoses, and the popoff valve is leaky too. The fan clutch, compressor, o-rings and shrader valves were just swapped out and I've had the freon freshly recharged. My builder thinks like you do - that the Cummins fan is so big that it doesn't need a shroud, but I can fully understand the logic behind creating as much low pressure behind the radiator as possible... but it also looks like a lot of fabrication to make something fit my complicated-ass truck. One issue is that the low side hose contacts the corner of the DA airbox, so it might rub through over time.

Good news is, my builder's swapped truck and the others he has done all do NOT have shrouds and none of them have the same issue I do, so hopefully it's isolated to my parts. It probably says something about the overall complexity and expense of these trucks that I'm pretty excited that the estimate is ONLY $300 to fix my A/C!

 

[Dirty Koala]

Thanks for the feedback. My truck is currently blowing somewhere between cool and outright hot with the slider set to 65 degrees depending on the ambient temperature of the truck (i.e. garage temp versus having sat out in the midday sun) but it's also 95+ degrees this week and an 11 on the UV index... mercifully I just got my truck back from the tint shop yesterday so now have 15% tint on the front windows, and 12% everywhere else. It's a little more murdered out looking than I'd like, but the sun out here is no joke so I'm happy to be driving in the shade!

I've apparently got leaky high and low side hoses, and the popoff valve is leaky too. The fan clutch, compressor, o-rings and shrader valves were just swapped out and I've had the freon freshly recharged. My builder thinks like you do - that the Cummins fan is so big that it doesn't need a shroud, but I can fully understand the logic behind creating as much low pressure behind the radiator as possible... but it also looks like a lot of fabrication to make something fit my complicated-ass truck. One issue is that the low side hose contacts the corner of the DA airbox, so it might rub through over time.

Good news is, my builder's swapped truck and the others he has done all do NOT have shrouds and none of them have the same issue I do, so hopefully it's isolated to my parts. It probably says something about the overall complexity and expense of these trucks that I'm pretty excited that the estimate is ONLY $300 to fix my A/C!

Did they check the evaporator and expansion valve?

 

[Dirty Koala]

I need to determine which muffler/resonator etc. to use in my exhaust. @Wheelingnoob @Mr Cimarron @thegogglesdonothing what units are you guys using and are you happy with the overall performance, exhaust note, size etc.

 

[justinlyman]

Thanks for the feedback. My truck is currently blowing somewhere between cool and outright hot with the slider set to 65 degrees depending on the ambient temperature of the truck (i.e. garage temp versus having sat out in the midday sun) but it's also 95+ degrees this week and an 11 on the UV index... mercifully I just got my truck back from the tint shop yesterday so now have 15% tint on the front windows, and 12% everywhere else. It's a little more murdered out looking than I'd like, but the sun out here is no joke so I'm happy to be driving in the shade!

I've apparently got leaky high and low side hoses, and the popoff valve is leaky too. The fan clutch, compressor, o-rings and shrader valves were just swapped out and I've had the freon freshly recharged. My builder thinks like you do - that the Cummins fan is so big that it doesn't need a shroud, but I can fully understand the logic behind creating as much low pressure behind the radiator as possible... but it also looks like a lot of fabrication to make something fit my complicated-ass truck. One issue is that the low side hose contacts the corner of the DA airbox, so it might rub through over time.

Good news is, my builder's swapped truck and the others he has done all do NOT have shrouds and none of them have the same issue I do, so hopefully it's isolated to my parts. It probably says something about the overall complexity and expense of these trucks that I'm pretty excited that the estimate is ONLY $300 to fix my A/C!

I just hooked up all my A/C lines and I have the same issue with the low side hose touching the airbox, has anyone tried bending the tube up a bit, this contact worries me, but not sure what the best solution is.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Mine doesn't contact the airbox...but since I have the 2nd battery tray where the washer bottle use to be, my rubber A/C line does touch the bottom of the battery tray.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I have a Aero turbine 3030XL muffler, works fantastically at keeping the 6bt respectable. I get no drone in the cab at all and people say the exhaust note is nice and mellow.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I have a Aero turbine 3030XL muffler, works fantastically at keeping the 6bt respectable. I get no drone in the cab at all and people say the exhaust note is nice and mellow.

Thank you, that's exactly what I am going for. After starting the motor up with no exhaust, and inside the garage, I certainly want to have a civilian note without drone.

 

[thegogglesdonothing]

I need to determine which muffler/resonator etc. to use in my exhaust. @Wheelingnoob @Mr Cimarron @thegogglesdonothing what units are you guys using and are you happy with the overall performance, exhaust note, size etc.

I've got a resonator (don't know which, specifically) and the exhaust on mine comes to a very straight end, kicked down to exit just ahead of the leading edge of the bumper. The exhaust shop did a great job on mine, tucked it up really high in the frame. I'll say that it sounds fantastic, especially at idle but really especially downshifting into 3rd gear from 50mph. At idle there's a really good Cummins clatter, noticeably loud (but in a good way), and below 2250rpm it's nicely quiet for me. Gets a bit wheezy sounding past about 2500rpm, but the engine braking sound on the downshift is terrific.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Just a spark arrestor muffler for me to keep it legal to drive on public lands. No complaints.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Thanks fellas. I found a bunch of videos of cummins running the aero turbines and they do sound nice with good reviews. I just ordered one up, should have it mid next week.

 

[nuncaperdido]

Lurker question for any of the Cummins installers. But particularly those who have retained the hf2av t/c. What's the measurement from the back of the engine block , not including the adapter/s, to the mounting face of the transfer case, again not including trans to t/c adapter? It seems like you've all mounted engine so as to use mechanical fan. I may have missed it, these conversions use stock L/C radiator? And I haven't figured out DA's fan relocation bracket. How does that work?

 

[Dirty Koala]

Lurker question for any of the Cummins installers. But particularly those who have retained the hf2av t/c. What's the measurement from the back of the engine block , not including the adapter/s, to the mounting face of the transfer case, again not including trans to t/c adapter? It seems like you've all mounted engine so as to use mechanical fan. I may have missed it, these conversions use stock L/C radiator? And I haven't figured out DA's fan relocation bracket. How does that work?

What are you trying to determine?

The overall length of the 6BT + NV4500 + trans/xfer adapter + HF2AV moves the xfer case 5/8" rearwards.

The stock cross member can be used, but requires the trans mount holes to be move rearward about 1.5" and then fortified.

The fan relocation bracket drops the fan done and towards the passenger side slightly. This is to center the fan in the radiator, and yes the stock radiator is used.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

In mine I moved the engine 1/2" forward to better clear the steering box timing cover interference with the DA positioning.

I kept the stock fan hub and fit a 89-90 non I fan it's smaller than the intercooled truck but still pulls a ton of air. No issues with clearance and the stock tach sensor this way as well. Sees to work so far and I have 1" clearance to the rad.

 

[nuncaperdido]

Trying to determine what other transmissions might be an option. Knowing that distance between the two would let me know what kind of room I have to work with. Thx for the replies. Knowing tht the t/c can be moved back some w/of driveshaft problems or into the fuel tank is good. Better than the 3 inches a 6bt moves everything back in a pickup and having to rebuild 2 shafts. And there's room to move forward and retain stock fan is good. Good info about non I/C fan. Never heard any talk of swapping radiator, but wasn't sure. If stock L/C radiator keeps it cool, no wonder my truck won't warm up w/its radiator. Unless I'm pulling a load. Thx again for info. Still, if you have actual measurement from engine block to xfer case tht would help.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I am running the dodge NV4500 which came behind the 6BT stock, so no adapter between engine and trans. The adapter plate between the NV4500 and the HF2AV is .75" thick. If you look up the OEM length of a dodge NV4500 and add .75", you will have the length between block and xfer case.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I spent the weekend finishing the chicken coop and run build, as a result I didn't get anything done on the swap.

This evening I got a couple hours in though. I managed to get the transfer case shifter mounted securely where I want it. I started fabbing up the top cover plate to close up the tunnel and also got my OEM grey center console painted...it looks really good and matches the oak nicely.

I also ordered up all my exhaust components, later this week I should be able to get cracking on that.

 

[nuncaperdido]

Thx for info on trans. And the pic of the coop gives me some ideas for THAT project.

 

[Dirty Koala]

There are always more projects than there is time.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Hope you have better luck with chickens than me. We had our baby ducks and new hatched chicks wiped out by an unknown predator a few weeks ago. Luckily the adult birds survived so we still have eggs. Hawks, bobcats, coyotes, owls, and snakes have all had their time in my coop.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Hope you have better luck with chickens than me. We had our baby ducks and new hatched chicks wiped out by an unknown predator a few weeks ago. Luckily the adult birds survived so we still have eggs. Hawks, bobcats, coyotes, owls, and snakes have all had their time in my coop.

I hope so too. My neighbor lost his whole flock to hawks, foxes and racoons. I spent a lot of time trying to make my coop predator proof. I dug trenches around the outside and buried the welded wire to prevent them digging in. I then put very heavy rocks on top of the buried wire to make it even harder.