Bummer...
Builds Zeke, the 1975 Wanderer and DD (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 120mm
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I've got that napa bypass hose on mine right now- you made me have a nightmare where it came off. I woke up and told myself there is no water leaking, there is no water leaking... memory says the version from Oreillys was longer. I'm going to have to order one now...I agree with the recs to take in samples and find a close candidate...even still, wasting 120 bucks these days is kinda like loosing a five dollar bill anymore...maybe I'm just showing my hours...
- Thread starter
- #63
Seriously, if there is a millimeter of hose showing on the pump side of those clamps, I am a liar.
I shudder to even think about it. Will start it up this morning and see if I've conquered the leaks. Was still leaking last night, when I made final adjustments before bed, so couldn't refill and see if I'd hit the right spot.
- Thread starter
- #64
Well, it wasn't a *complete* waste of $120.
I only lost about a quart of antifreeze, and I finally have it not leaking, using the NAPA hoses.
That parable they tell about the horseshoe nail and kingdoms being lost is pretty relevant for my work today. Little tweaks ended up saving the day.
I also eliminated a huge part of the carb issues, just by a) finding the gas cap and installing it again. (I left it at the gas station last time I filled, and I live in a small enough town that the lady behind the counter pulled it out of the drawer when she saw me walk through the door), and b) installing a much stronger throttle return spring.
The one on there was nearly without any sproing to its spring. It's still not perfect, but its a heck of a lot better. It's amazing how much better the rig behaves when the linkage gives it a fighting chance.
Lela was busy supervising me as I cleaned up the mess off the floor. I hate having antifreeze laying around when there is a curious pet.
I only lost about a quart of antifreeze, and I finally have it not leaking, using the NAPA hoses.
That parable they tell about the horseshoe nail and kingdoms being lost is pretty relevant for my work today. Little tweaks ended up saving the day.
I also eliminated a huge part of the carb issues, just by a) finding the gas cap and installing it again. (I left it at the gas station last time I filled, and I live in a small enough town that the lady behind the counter pulled it out of the drawer when she saw me walk through the door), and b) installing a much stronger throttle return spring.
The one on there was nearly without any sproing to its spring. It's still not perfect, but its a heck of a lot better. It's amazing how much better the rig behaves when the linkage gives it a fighting chance.
Lela was busy supervising me as I cleaned up the mess off the floor. I hate having antifreeze laying around when there is a curious pet.
What I love most about this update is the bit about being handed the gas cap back, I'm not that old but do miss the good old days when things were quieter...
Mandatory for tech in all racing I've done was TWO fully functioning return springs on the carb, in a spot where a linkage failure would not render them useless.
(had a super scary incident one year at ice racing where a fella had his dual carbs stick wide open because the spring over centered and held it WOT...which he then turned off the key and locked his steering, damn near a head on by the time he cleaned out both the infield snow banks and crossed the far side)
Return springs are important.
Mandatory for tech in all racing I've done was TWO fully functioning return springs on the carb, in a spot where a linkage failure would not render them useless.
(had a super scary incident one year at ice racing where a fella had his dual carbs stick wide open because the spring over centered and held it WOT...which he then turned off the key and locked his steering, damn near a head on by the time he cleaned out both the infield snow banks and crossed the far side
)Return springs are important.
- Thread starter
- #66
Put both Zeke and Lela to work this morning.
Hostas and Black Eyed Susans had died and hadn't been cleaned up for the several years we were overseas, and the city has free lawn waste disposal, so put down the rear seat and put a tarp down and just filled the back up with lawn trash.
Once I got to the dump, I just grab the tarp and give it a good yank and it all dumps out.
Idiots don't back all the way up to the disposal site, and the pile keeps advancing forward. Because of Zeke, though, I rammed my way through the advancing piles of yard waste, and made it to the proper pile, where I left my contribution.
Lela thought it was pretty cool.
Had a nice day playing with Zeke, the dog and my wife.
Hostas and Black Eyed Susans had died and hadn't been cleaned up for the several years we were overseas, and the city has free lawn waste disposal, so put down the rear seat and put a tarp down and just filled the back up with lawn trash.
Once I got to the dump, I just grab the tarp and give it a good yank and it all dumps out.
Idiots don't back all the way up to the disposal site, and the pile keeps advancing forward. Because of Zeke, though, I rammed my way through the advancing piles of yard waste, and made it to the proper pile, where I left my contribution.
Lela thought it was pretty cool.
Had a nice day playing with Zeke, the dog and my wife.
- Thread starter
- #67
I've been dinking around for three weeks now, and am finally getting around to developing a "Hit List" for Zeke.
I've spent 35 years being proactive and have enjoyed my sloth-like lazy bones behavior up to now, but need to get my stuff together to ensure long term Iron Pig ownership pleasure.
I'll use this post to develop the bones of a list, and will update it as I go.
1. Broken Windshield
2. Headliner
3. Roof
Chicken and egg, here, as the headliner needs replaced simultaneous with this. Looking at the roof Saturday, there are several loose screws/rivets in the roof, and the sealant around the sill is shot as well. That means if I replace the headliner, it will just get ruined right away by leaks. So, this needs to be one project instead of three.
4. Heated passenger seat - My lovely bride suffers from occasional back problems, which are alleviated largely by a heated seat. This is a
project, though, and will take no time at all.
5. Birfield grease exchange - Need to find a good online resource showing how this is done; I've observed one on my FZJ80 with @inkpot and @Tools R Us, but need a refresher. How similar is the FJ55?
This will be done simultaneous with a diff/transmission/transaxle fluid exchange
6. Permanent carb/tune fix - It's running pretty "ok" for now, but I need to decide which direction to go. TBI, Trollhole or keep trying to fix the Holley 2300. I may take it to my local mechanic, who is a whiz at the carb based tune.
7. Air Conditioning - It's "possible" I can put this off for a year, if I can talk my lovely bride out of going south after the Pig Party. The Iowa-Montana-North Rim route can be done largely at altitude, which should be pretty nice in mid-June. Going down the Phoenix-Tucson-Dallas-Iowa on the way back would suuuuuuuck without A/C.
8. Sheet metal repair - The plan right now is to make the body as air tight as I can, using external sheet metal panels, my sheet metal beating equipment and oxy-acetylene torch. Once next summer rolls around, and I'm driving my '67 Mustang every day, I can afford to take Zeke off the road long enough to properly get after all the interior supports and panels that have rust issues. And I expect there to be more of those, after driving through a long, cold Iowa winter.
I'll add to the list more later. I welcome input and opinion, though "don't drive it" is unacceptable. This is a working class truck, and will earn its keep, even if I have to replace every part in it to do so.
I've spent 35 years being proactive and have enjoyed my sloth-like lazy bones behavior up to now, but need to get my stuff together to ensure long term Iron Pig ownership pleasure.
I'll use this post to develop the bones of a list, and will update it as I go.
1. Broken Windshield
2. Headliner
3. Roof
Chicken and egg, here, as the headliner needs replaced simultaneous with this. Looking at the roof Saturday, there are several loose screws/rivets in the roof, and the sealant around the sill is shot as well. That means if I replace the headliner, it will just get ruined right away by leaks. So, this needs to be one project instead of three.
4. Heated passenger seat - My lovely bride suffers from occasional back problems, which are alleviated largely by a heated seat. This is a
project, though, and will take no time at all.5. Birfield grease exchange - Need to find a good online resource showing how this is done; I've observed one on my FZJ80 with @inkpot and @Tools R Us, but need a refresher. How similar is the FJ55?
This will be done simultaneous with a diff/transmission/transaxle fluid exchange
6. Permanent carb/tune fix - It's running pretty "ok" for now, but I need to decide which direction to go. TBI, Trollhole or keep trying to fix the Holley 2300. I may take it to my local mechanic, who is a whiz at the carb based tune.
7. Air Conditioning - It's "possible" I can put this off for a year, if I can talk my lovely bride out of going south after the Pig Party. The Iowa-Montana-North Rim route can be done largely at altitude, which should be pretty nice in mid-June. Going down the Phoenix-Tucson-Dallas-Iowa on the way back would suuuuuuuck without A/C.
8. Sheet metal repair - The plan right now is to make the body as air tight as I can, using external sheet metal panels, my sheet metal beating equipment and oxy-acetylene torch. Once next summer rolls around, and I'm driving my '67 Mustang every day, I can afford to take Zeke off the road long enough to properly get after all the interior supports and panels that have rust issues. And I expect there to be more of those, after driving through a long, cold Iowa winter.
I'll add to the list more later. I welcome input and opinion, though "don't drive it" is unacceptable. This is a working class truck, and will earn its keep, even if I have to replace every part in it to do so.
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My 2 cents.... if you're planning a repaint then wait until that goes on before putting in windshield and head liner. Windshield and cargo windows have to be removed to put in the liner and to paint. Do it all together because you'll probably find rust in the roof gutter as well.
- Thread starter
- #69
No repaint in the plans. It took 42.5 years to get that patina, and I plan on rocking it the way it stands.
- Thread starter
- #70
Upon further review, I've decided to put off the headliner replacement until warmer weather.
Bubba ain't got nothing on me, man....
That's some Pebble Beach Concours shiznit going on right there.
Bubba ain't got nothing on me, man....
That's some Pebble Beach Concours shiznit going on right there.
- Thread starter
- #72
And obtw, welcome to the Upper Midwest.
- Thread starter
- #74
I only use oil pan heat. My technique, since I have a garage, is to thoroughly warm before moving to stop fuel line freeze up, and the oil pan heater speeds the warm up period significantly.
The radiator will be blocked with cardboard, of course.
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Ha, ha, ha, a piggy, you are so 
! 
Pictures would help, but if the knuckle seals are good, they need to be ~1/2 to 3/4 full of moly grease.
A/C,, heated seats,,,
man-up and drive it like the classic is, as intended by Toyotasan, or you know, they make those two hundy/Highlander thingys? Back in the day we drove these all over hell and back and were grateful to have them, didn't bitch, except when they broke, then had to walk on 200F pavement, barefoot, uphill,,,,
! Pictures would help, but if the knuckle seals are good, they need to be ~1/2 to 3/4 full of moly grease.
A/C,, heated seats,,,
man-up and drive it like the classic is, as intended by Toyotasan, or you know, they make those two hundy/Highlander thingys? Back in the day we drove these all over hell and back and were grateful to have them, didn't bitch, except when they broke, then had to walk on 200F pavement, barefoot, uphill,,,,
- Thread starter
- #76
Ha, ha, ha, a piggy, you are so
Pictures would help, but if the knuckle seals are good, they need to be ~1/2 to 3/4 full of moly grease.
Knuckle seals and all the gaskets are new. Just need to change out the red grease for the stinky stuff.
At least this time I bought one with grease IN the birfs...
A/C,, heated seats,,,
That's a great idea!!!! I could take a two hundy/Highlander chassis, and put the piggy body on it, with 50" spinny wheels and paint it pearlescent mauve!
fj55-100
SILVER Star
Hey sounds like mine
A/C,, heated seats,,, man-up and drive it like the classic is, as intended by Toyotasan, or you know, they make those two hundy/Highlander thingys? Back in the day we drove these all over hell and back and were grateful to have them, didn't bitch, except when they broke, then had to walk on 200F pavement, barefoot, uphill,,,,[/QUOTE]
A/C,, heated seats,,,
man-up and drive it like the classic is, as intended by Toyotasan, or you know, they make those two hundy/Highlander thingys? Back in the day we drove these all over hell and back and were grateful to have them, didn't bitch, except when they broke, then had to walk on 200F pavement, barefoot, uphill,,,,[/QUOTE]
- Thread starter
- #78
So, to do the Birfield repack on the 55:
Drain the front diff
1. Jack the thing up and remove the front wheels
2. Remove the brake caliper and wire it out of the way
3. Remove the plate and seal from the inside part of the knuckle assembly
4. Remove the selector bolts
5. Remove the circlip from inside the selector hub
6. Remove the 4 steering arm bolts and steering arm
7. Pop off the hub assembly
8. Clean out the red grease, pulling the axle as necessary
9. Pack the birfield with moly grease and reassembl in reverse order
First, is this the correct method for disassembly, and if so, do I need to put preload on any of the bearings? Seems to me everything should be already preloaded and ready.
Are there any seals I should order "just in case" I need one when I get it apart?
Drain the front diff
1. Jack the thing up and remove the front wheels
2. Remove the brake caliper and wire it out of the way
3. Remove the plate and seal from the inside part of the knuckle assembly
4. Remove the selector bolts
5. Remove the circlip from inside the selector hub
6. Remove the 4 steering arm bolts and steering arm
7. Pop off the hub assembly
8. Clean out the red grease, pulling the axle as necessary
9. Pack the birfield with moly grease and reassembl in reverse order
First, is this the correct method for disassembly, and if so, do I need to put preload on any of the bearings? Seems to me everything should be already preloaded and ready.
Are there any seals I should order "just in case" I need one when I get it apart?
I'm far from qualified to answer this, as I've not yet torn into a solid front axle in my life, but you will need a kit with seals and there are some links to the process under common questions or such in the main forum.
That wasn't very helpful, someone else will chime in with better info...
That wasn't very helpful, someone else will chime in with better info...
- Thread starter
- #80
If you do it like this, and don't fudge up your oil seals, you shouldn't need to replace any seals. IF the FJ55 axle is anything like the axle he is dinking with.
Remember, my rebuild is fresh; I just need to change out the red goo for the moly goo.
Remember, my rebuild is fresh; I just need to change out the red goo for the moly goo.
