York OBA Brackets/Pulleys

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Sorry guys, not interested in making any more of these. Just don't have the time. Sourcing the belts/tensioners and getting those pulleys machined was kind of a pain. Lol Anyone that wants to make these, feel free! Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

Believe me, I feel your pain :cheers:
 
That separator looks a bit close to the exhaust....you may bake it. Moving it further down stream would allow the oil mist to "condense" a wee bit as well. Kirby or a pick and pull is about the only place for flanges. Could always swap comp heads and thread the ports internally for NPT fittings.

This!

The further you can locate your coalescing filter from the compressor the more efficient it will be at doing its job...think "cooler".
 
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This!

The further you can locate your coalescing filter from the compressor the more efficient it will be at doing its job...think "cooler".

Thanks for the advice guys. Mine was an example of rigid thinking. It seems like a few of the threads I've read on the net had the filter mounted very close to the compressor and I was just going that route. As I look it it (and in my pic it is very obvious), it would be simple to mount the check valve directly to the air manifold seen in the back of the pic and then the filter directly to the check valve. I can easily create a bracket mounted to the firewall for support.
 
Finally getting around to installing my system. Here it is mocked up. I will make some heavier brackets and TIG the inlets and outlets to the flanges. Have you guys found any different sources for the flanges?

View attachment 867878

It's not completely clear in this picture, but it looks like you built a bracket to hold up one side of the coalescing filter and attached it to the MAF. But the air filter housing and accompanying MAF are bolted to the body, while the compressor is bolted to the engine which rotates from torque forces. This is why there's a big rubber flex hose that connects the MAF to the throttle body. Once you start torquing the engine, something is going to break, most likely the small pipe that connects the coalescing filter to the compressor.
 
It's not completely clear in this picture, but it looks like you built a bracket to hold up one side of the coalescing filter and attached it to the MAF. But the air filter housing and accompanying MAF are bolted to the body, while the compressor is bolted to the engine which rotates from torque forces. This is why there's a big rubber flex hose that connects the MAF to the throttle body. Once you start torquing the engine, something is going to break, most likely the small pipe that connects the coalescing filter to the compressor.

Yes - good catch. The plan was to both mount the bracket to the air cleaner with rubber isolators and mount the filter to the bracket with rubber isolators. But…I think it will be easier/cleaner to mount the filter to the firewall.
 
Ranchero - looking forward to seeing how your build works out.

How much does mounting it on the firewall like in the pics obstruct access to the power antenna motor?
 
Thismay be a dumb question and I've looked and looked and searched outside of this forum as well. But are you guys using relay's with the york clutch and what amp fuse are you running for it. I don't think a relay will be needed, but it surely has to be fused right?
 
no relay here.. just a fused connection..
 
This may be a dumb question and I've looked and looked and searched outside of this forum as well. But are you guys using relay's with the york clutch and what amp fuse are you running for it. I don't think a relay will be needed, but it surely has to be fused right?

Here's one way to do it: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/possible-jdm-aux-a-c-fan-wiring-solution.165504/#post-4674003

A relay is desirable because you only want the York clutch to get energized when the ignition switch is in the run position, the air pressure is low, and whatever dash switch you install for OBA is in the "on" position. If you don't include the ignition switch, then you run the risk of energizing the clutch when the engine isn't running and this will drain your battery rather quickly. (I think it's a ~10A draw.) While you could run the clutch directly from the ignition circuit, that's additional amps through a switch and ignition circuit not originally designed for that load. The relay provides the York with it's own circuit.
 
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I've got a york compressor that I intended on installing but ended up putting a TRD 'air compressor' instead :) PM me if anybody wants to buy it...
 
I've got a york compressor that I intended on installing but ended up putting a TRD 'air compressor' instead :) PM me if anybody wants to buy it...
Pm sent
 
Anybody have a bracket and pulley sitting around?
 

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