Yet ANOTHER anti-wrap bar question...

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I don't enforce the laws of physics, but I understand them.

Have you seen BKs shirt on the subject?!

"I defy the laws of physics".
He usually wears it the day after he wears
"I void warrantees"

Guess I'm in his camp.

Fwiw, there were at least ten of our anti-wrap bars at Rubithon and none had any issues.
 
:clap: Great forum this is!
 
Fwiw, there were at least ten of our anti-wrap bars at Rubithon and none had any issues.

I don't expect they will have issues. I'm just saying they could be lighter and affect the flex less than they do. Of course I still don't have any evidence of that.
 
Fwiw, there were at least ten of our anti-wrap bars at Rubithon and none had any issues.



Georg,



How important is having the ride height set exact when building and setting up the bar?

I’m in the process of building a bar now and would like to finish as much of the welding and grinding before hanging the rest of the parts like doors, glass and fuel tank, I’m guessing parts plus full tank of fuel will add several hundred pounds.



Thanks!
 
That really won't make a whole lot of difference.
But it wouldn't be a horrible idea to simulate the added weight by piling some "stuff" like a couple of spare third members in the back of the rig.

Georg
 
I don't expect they will have issues. I'm just saying they could be lighter and affect the flex less than they do. Of course I still don't have any evidence of that.

Let me get this straight .......... You're saying that our design limits articulation. And in the next sentence you're saying you have no proof of that.

Brilliant!

Fwiw, we use bump stops to limit our suspension. :flipoff:
 
Could be lighter and could limit the flex. I'm not talking about the bump direction, but the droop direction.

None of this is intended as disrespect to your suspension designs. I assume you still learn stuff sometimes? I still believe there is something to be learned about the current thinking about anti-wrap bars, that's all.
 
Edward, you're going to have to try a lot harder than that if you think that would insult me by any stretch of the imagination. We're good buddy.

I learn stuff every day. Otherwise it would probably be time for me to quit.

Could the anti-wrap bars we use be built lighter?! Perhaps. But I've seen "lighter" versions bend. There's more stress exerted on these than you'd think.
And when it's all said and done, would an additional few pounds hurt?! Especially since the part sits fairly low in the chassis and would only affect the CIG in a positive way?!

One thing I have learned is that these units work. So I'll keep building them this way until I see a proven better design.
I've got plenty of other stuff to learn about ........

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
We do not sell the anti-rap bars in kit form. If you're looking for a kit then I would buy one from Ruffstuff specialties.
We only sell these when we custom build and install them on customers vehicles.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids
 
How is the angle position of the tower on the axle housing determined? I've heard the spread between top and bottom bolts to be about 25% of tire diameter, but where exactly to locate? My best guess is to take a guess, tack it up, cycle suspension and see if it works without binding I guess? That would be easier said than done I'd guess. Maybe disassemble spring pack to just the main leaf to be able to fully cycle?

DOM lengths would be as required depending on where the mounting x member will be for forward shackle?

Buying parts is easy, getting them installed correctly another thing

UPDATE: I hadn't seen this article before so thought I'd leave it here.

Axle Wrap Prevention
 
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Ouch. That's going to have all kinds of binding. Try jacking your rig up off the frame and see what happens with the bar and the rear end. The bar will keep the rear end from drooping as it should.

The rear end doesn't pivot along the driveshaft. It basically rides up and down in a vertical line and stays flat. If the anti-wrap bar is attached solidly to the rear end, like in cruiserpilot's pictures, the front of it also has to be able to not only twist, but travel straight up and down. The drive shaft has pivots (u-joints) at both ends and a slip joint in the middle, so it has totally different requirements.

Take a look at my anti-wrap bar in my after thread. There are some other pics and discussion in there, so you kind of have to sort through them. My bar has a slip joint that can twist and it has a shackle at the front that points straight backwards at rest, so the front of the bar can travel straight up and down like I have pointed out.

Anyone who says there's is "right", but not like I have described, jack up the frame with a jack and try to unbolt it. It will be bound up and you will not be able to remove it, which indicates that it can bind or break on the trail. The mount has to be strong, but I don't think "very strong". It doesn't have to support the whole weight of the truck, IMO. I use the stock fj40 round cross member with a sleeve around it.

Potlach, mine is about like your diagram, but with the shackle pointing straight back, and the joint at the end of the bar can pull in and out as the shackle swings up and down.
I like the way you did yours .
I just finich welding my barr and all the braquettes on the truck. I did it the comon way but hav the idea of putting a kind of revolver shackle insted of a regular . I think maybe it could help for down travel .Do you think it could work fine ?
 
Mine's still in one piece, so to speak. I haven't wheeled it in a couple years though. :( It needs one of @orangefj45's saginaw steering pump conversion kits and then needs to pass smog.

Having an 80 series doesn't make one super motivated to work on the old iron.
 
Mine's still in one piece, so to speak. I haven't wheeled it in a couple years though. :( It needs one of @orangefj45's saginaw steering pump conversion kits and then needs to pass smog.

Having an 80 series doesn't make one super motivated to work on the old iron.
What do you think of my idea to put a "shackle revolver" instead of a standard?
 
The rear end doesn't pivot along the driveshaft. It basically rides up and down in a vertical line and stays flat. If the anti-wrap bar is attached solidly to the rear end, like in cruiserpilot's pictures, the front of it also has to be able to not only twist, but travel straight up and down.

Take a look at my anti-wrap bar in my after thread. There are some other pics and discussion in there, so you kind of have to sort through them. My bar has a slip joint that can twist and it has a shackle at the front that points straight backwards at rest, so the front of the bar can travel straight up and down like I have pointed out.

What do you think of my idea to put a "shackle revolver" instead of a standard?

A revolver shackle will not solve the problem I described. It could reduce the need to use rubber in the joints.

The tip of the trac bar, at the front, moves through a complex, 3-dimensional space. It does not simply rotate through two separate angles such that shackles alone will allow the system to work without binding.
 
A revolver shackle will not solve the problem I described. It could reduce the need to use rubber in the joints.

The tip of the trac bar, at the front, moves through a complex, 3-dimensional space. It does not simply rotate through two separate angles such that shackles alone will allow the system to work without binding.
Thanks for the reply !
I will try it the most common way first and see how it goes .Maybe later try the revolver shackle . Can it be worse than a straigt shackle …
 

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