Builds Wyoming 80 Build (1 Viewer)

[grizzlygibbs]

Just an FYI, I found a pretty elegant solution to those two stupid front timing cover studs that go through the upper oil pan and into the lower timing cover (which basically prohibits one's ability to take the timing cover off with the engine in the truck and necessitates jacking the engine up off the mounts to remove the upper pan and cover).

The two studs do not have Torx heads while most of the other studs on the 1FZ do.

The two EGR studs are exactly the same size, thread and pitch, as well as length. The shank in the middle is the same as well.

So, I decided to use those studs on my customer's engine. Worked perfectly.

Here's the two side-by-side and also a nicely cleaned head. God, I love beautiful clean Aichi aluminum.....

So Beno, while one has their engine out, this seems it would be a good thing to change out to the Torx studs and would allow one to remove their timing cover if need be in the future without jacking up the engine? Did I understand that correctly?

 

[OGBeno]

So Beno, while one has their engine out, this seems it would be a good thing to change out to the Torx studs and would allow one to remove their timing cover if need be in the future without jacking up the engine? Did I understand that correctly?

In theory, yes. Whether it can work, would have to be seen at some future date.

 

[yotakrawler]

Just an FYI, I found a pretty elegant solution to those two stupid front timing cover studs that go through the upper oil pan and into the lower timing cover (which basically prohibits one's ability to take the timing cover off with the engine in the truck and necessitates jacking the engine up off the mounts to remove the upper pan and cover).

The two studs do not have Torx heads while most of the other studs on the 1FZ do.

The two EGR studs are exactly the same size, thread and pitch, as well as length. The shank in the middle is the same as well.

So, I decided to use those studs on my customer's engine. Worked perfectly.

Here's the two side-by-side and also a nicely cleaned head. God, I love beautiful clean Aichi aluminum.....

Great idea! I wish all studs had torx. Do you know if this is the correct part number 90116-08348 ?

 

[NLXTACY]

I have to do exactly this pretty quickly. Any tips? Did you really just drill off the heads? I was hoping it was a threaded punch rivet but I guess not

Finally for today I took off the baffle on the valve cover because I was really worried that glass beads were trapped in there.

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/ss270/yotakrawler/Landcruiser/IMG_2385.jpg

I drilled of the heads of the aluminum coming through the baffle. My plan is to drill holes and use rivets or tap them and use machine screws to hold it back in place.

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/ss270/yotakrawler/Landcruiser/IMG_2386.jpg

Needless to say it was free of glass beads but I found it very interesting how one side was more dirty than the other.

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/ss270/yotakrawler/Landcruiser/IMG_2387.jpg

http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/ss270/yotakrawler/Landcruiser/IMG_2388.jpg

 

[NLXTACY]

About to do this to my head as well as the intake plenums. Am I going to curse myself trying to do this with a dremel tool?

I haven't had a lot of time because of school, but I decided to try and port and polish the head....

Before any work, marked material to remove with the gasket



and a finished port

 

[Dini]

Not sure, I know the guy that owns the local snap-on truck has a daughter that drag races, but I don't think it is the same last name.

When and what school did you go to when you were out here?

I can see you know the Snap-On guy well by the pictures you have posted.
I attended WyoTech for the hot rod program, and then went to LCCC (Last Chance Cowboy College) for a few classes after that. This was back in '98 when WyoTech was only in Wyoming.
Barbara was a little blonde hottie that was into muscle cars and partying. She hung out with a brunette that drove an orange '67 Cougar. They are probably both fat, worn out and haggard by now.
Man, I used love drag racing behind the landfill. Is the white paint that marks the 1/4 mile still on the road?

 

[yotakrawler]

Sounds close. Ill have to check to part bag tomorrow.

I've been on my back in dirt installing upper oil pan/lower pan/timing cover/water pump, etc/crankshaft pulley/head tonight...

I wish I had a real shop.

At least I have the correct tools! [thanks CDan and Mrs. CDan for the ultimate Xmas gift!]

Thanks for looking, everyone on this site have been so great and helpful so far.

I know what you mean about a shop... when I am done with school I want to build a big pole barn with an apartment.

That is a sweet torque wrench and quite a gift. We got one of those when I work for Toyota and we couldn't figure out what on a Toyota would need something that big, now I know. I will have to see if my old boss will let me borrow it.

 

[yotakrawler]

I have to do exactly this pretty quickly. Any tips? Did you really just drill off the heads? I was hoping it was a threaded punch rivet but I guess not

Yeah I just drilled them off, no real tips as I have not reattached it yet. It looks like those nubs are part of the valve cover and then were melted down to secure the baffle. Not sure if I would do it again though because I am worried about how I am going to reattach with out having the potential of a bolt, screw or rivet coming lose and bouncing around in my valve train.

About to do this to my head as well as the intake plenums. Am I going to curse myself trying to do this with a dremel tool?

I think you might hate life if you do it with a dremel, although it is not a lot of fun with a die grinder either. I would imagine that a drill would be better that a dremel tool and give you more options for bits.

I am using this kit and seems to be working well, but I also have some carbide bits that I used to remove the meat of the material:

JEGS Performance Products 80900 JEGS Port and Polish Kit

 

[yotakrawler]

I can see you know the Snap-On guy well by the pictures you have posted.
I attended WyoTech for the hot rod program, and then went to LCCC (Last Chance Cowboy College) for a few classes after that. This was back in '98 when WyoTech was only in Wyoming.
Barbara was a little blonde hottie that was into muscle cars and partying. She hung out with a brunette that drove an orange '67 Cougar. They are probably both fat, worn out and haggard by now.
Man, I used love drag racing behind the landfill. Is the white paint that marks the 1/4 mile still on the road?

Yeah I used to work as a tech for a Toyota dealer and I spent way too much money on the snap-on truck, but it is nice having the tools.

My understanding is that WyoTech was really good back then and now not so much.

Yeah, definitely and unfortunately don't know any chicks that are into muscle cars. Sound like they were a good time.

I haven't notice a white line by the land fill but I prefer the dirt in my 88 Celica turbo Alltrac, my want to be rally car.

 

[Dini]

Yeah I used to work as a tech for a Toyota dealer and I spent way too much money on the snap-on truck, but it is nice having the tools.

My understanding is that WyoTech was really good back then and now not so much.

Yeah, definitely and unfortunately don't know any chicks that are into muscle cars. Sound like they were a good time.

I haven't notice a white line by the land fill but I prefer the dirt in my 88 Celica turbo Alltrac, my want to be rally car.

Ah, a guy just can't have too many tools! I wouldn't say they (WyoTech) were as good as they were made out to be when I was there. I can't say if they are any good now. The white lines were painted across the streets to mark a 1/4 mile for street racing. They were there before I moved there for school. IIRC, there were about 5 different spots that had 1/4 miles marked. That was one of my favorite things to do when I lived there. This was back before all the Fast & Furious BS when you could actually street race somewhat safely. There were some damn fast cars that would show up to some of them too, even for 7200' altitude. Maybe those illegal drag spots went away.

There has to be at least a few ladies that like muscle cars at UW. Back in the day I partied with quite a few of those girls, and the school couldn't have changed that much since...? Anway, great job on your 80. I will stop hijacking your thread now.

 

[yotakrawler]

School has been keeping me super busy but I had a little time this weekend to get some work done....

Got the oil pans on


More port and polishing, really not my favorite thing, but I am almost done. Intake before any work.



And after, not polished yet though



Removed a lot of material on the intake side trying to match the gasket

 

[Trapper50cal]

Are you in danger of this motor running TOO well as a result of the improved airflow profile? I thought I remembered seeing a professional/racing head job with port and valve work that so drastically improved airflow (and reduced air eddies) that it became extremely efficient and increased the output drastically. (It's ability to "ingest" considerably more air volumetrically...to the point of causing potential failures to other components on down the driveline due to power increases...)

Please tell me you are going to dyno this....

 

[yotakrawler]

Are you in danger of this motor running TOO well as a result of the improved airflow profile? I thought I remembered seeing a professional/racing head job with port and valve work that so drastically improved airflow (and reduced air eddies) that it became extremely efficient and increased the output drastically. (It's ability to "ingest" considerably more air volumetrically...to the point of causing potential failures to other components on down the driveline due to power increases...)

Please tell me you are going to dyno this....

You know I am not really sure, this is the first time I have ever done a port and polish. I am still running stock valves so I don't image mine will have that drastic of a change. However I am a little concerned about the flow going into the engine. I am trying to apply some of the things that I am learning in my engineering classes and my understanding is that it is desirable to have a very turbulent flow in the combustion chamber. So I am not sure how a port and polish will effect this. Also I am not sure what this will do for the atomizing of the fuel.

Probably will not dyno and honestly I have only driven an 80 series with 1hdt so I will have nothing to tell me how well it is running when I am done. Guess I will have to find some one to take a test drive for me.

 

[Trapper50cal]

just borrow a stocker and drive it before driving yours....and put small tires on for your first run...

The valve work was what I remember being of the most importance in increasing air volume, so if you aren't doing those...I think it will just be a great running 1FZ-FE.
If I understand the process correctly, the valves will dictate that turbulence.

 

[Trapper50cal]

BTW, the guy here on mud that sells silicone PHH, FHH and constant torque hose clamps also sells a torx set for the oil pump cover gasket job.

 

[NLXTACY]

BTW, the guy here on mud that sells silicone PHH, FHH and constant torque hose clamps also sells a torx set for the oil pump cover gasket.

?????

 

[Trapper50cal]

?????

It was sort of along the same lines as the torx studs for the timing belt cover, etc...just a good product to put on while it's out to save time later...

 

[NLXTACY]

It was sort of along the same lines as the torx studs for the timing belt cover, etc...just a good product to put on while it's out to save time later...

Hehe, no I was trying to figure out who you were talking about

 

[Trapper50cal]

Hehe, no I was trying to figure out who you were talking about

Ohhh, let me find the link...

This guy
http://www.1fzfephh.com/index.html

Same guy VVV JRob beat me to it.

 

[Jrob80]

Here you go....

GreenStripe

EDIT here is what you are looking for...... Torxkit