RE your new water pump not fitting the fan... There are two different types of water pumps available. One with a straight outlet and one with a kinked outlet. They look the same, but trust me they are not.
Builds WTF did I buy - Project do it right the second time (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #122
Was able to spend time painting valve cover. Most of you probably know to avoid painting in high humidity. Well, I did not. So I stripped down the valve cover and secured the paint booth.
Only problem was that at high humidity, paint will start to scale.
I had to re-sand everything and give it a second attempt once the humidity dropped. In mean time got to spend some time in my ‘68 wandering back roads with other cruiser fans
Only problem was that at high humidity, paint will start to scale.
I had to re-sand everything and give it a second attempt once the humidity dropped. In mean time got to spend some time in my ‘68 wandering back roads with other cruiser fans
- Thread starter
- #123
I’m still looking for a carb insulator to get the engine complete, but in mean time had a milestone day today.
Before I wanted to put the body back on I needed to route vacuum hose for the 4wd. I received some really nice cloth braided hose and proceeded to cut it to length. Sure, it will be under the tub and no one will see it, but dang I liked how it looked.
No photos though, because I quickly took advantage of a my son not being moody. With his once in a lifetime willingness to assist, we got the tub put back on the chassis.
Beer me!
Oh and valve cover done too
Finally, able to get both 40’s in the garage. The pink flamingo? That's pure class
Before I wanted to put the body back on I needed to route vacuum hose for the 4wd. I received some really nice cloth braided hose and proceeded to cut it to length. Sure, it will be under the tub and no one will see it, but dang I liked how it looked.
No photos though, because I quickly took advantage of a my son not being moody. With his once in a lifetime willingness to assist, we got the tub put back on the chassis.
Beer me!
Oh and valve cover done too
Finally, able to get both 40’s in the garage. The pink flamingo? That's pure class
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- Thread starter
- #124
Vacuum lines were completed for the transfer case. This included a freshen up of the transfer shift valve and bracket.
Here's a couple before:
Secured the lines to frame and cleaned it all up, well except the under side of tub.. its dusty there:
Here's a couple before:
Secured the lines to frame and cleaned it all up, well except the under side of tub.. its dusty there:
- Thread starter
- #125
Started installing the main wiring harness. @Coolerman created a beautiful reproduction wiring harness for me. Special provisions are included for trailer harness and fog lamps. I'm missing the idiot's guide to reconnect this wire to that connector so it's been slow for me to decipher what goes where. I'll probably run it many different ways until I get it right. If anyone has recommendations, I'm taking them! Found this thread which helped get the light switch connected properly: 45 light switch wiring
Here's the main harness as it came out of the box from Mark:
I used a sleeve kit found on amazon and wrapped the harness 1 more time. Designers choice. I thought it would look cleaner.
Kit here: Amazon product ASIN B079SLRCQDresult here:
I'm finally at the phase where I get to unbox parts accumulated over the years (sometimes twice). Here's an example of an excellent floor dimmer switch from @ToyotaMatt :
Trying to include photos of part numbers so this thread can be a reference (Hah!) to someone.
Old flasher:
Here's the main harness as it came out of the box from Mark:
I used a sleeve kit found on amazon and wrapped the harness 1 more time. Designers choice. I thought it would look cleaner.
Kit here: Amazon product ASIN B079SLRCQDresult here:
I'm finally at the phase where I get to unbox parts accumulated over the years (sometimes twice). Here's an example of an excellent floor dimmer switch from @ToyotaMatt :
Trying to include photos of part numbers so this thread can be a reference (Hah!) to someone.
Old flasher:
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- Thread starter
- #126
I’m going to admit here this project quickly reveals how insane I’ll be when I age. I’m perfecting using a tool, setting it down and then spending the next 5 minutes searching for the tool I just placed somewhere.
Between hunting for tools I JUST set down I get to attach parts. Received a beautifully refurbished distributor from @4Cruisers and finally installed it.
Also connected new wires where they belong:
Here’s a photo of SOR part number I’m using for the transfer case shift rod. The original shows NLA
In my ‘68 the fresh air vent is very hard to use. I refurbished the one for ‘67 and made sure to grease the prongs for easy operation
Here it is mounted. This will probably be the last time this part sees light of day
Between hunting for tools I JUST set down I get to attach parts. Received a beautifully refurbished distributor from @4Cruisers and finally installed it.
Also connected new wires where they belong:
Here’s a photo of SOR part number I’m using for the transfer case shift rod. The original shows NLA
In my ‘68 the fresh air vent is very hard to use. I refurbished the one for ‘67 and made sure to grease the prongs for easy operation
Here it is mounted. This will probably be the last time this part sees light of day
- Thread starter
- #127
Been practicing meditative wire wheeling lately as I work through the small pieces that need to get reattached. Figure I needed to meditate and relax after discovering my ability to lose tools immediately after use.
What’s really cool are the details on parts. I was really impressed seeing teq stamp on the temperature sending unit.
With wire wheel in hand, rehabilitation commenced on glovebox and fuel tank. This glovebox came from @Krondor I try to give credit where I remember to those that have helped me. Here are a few before and after:
After
I chose to paint the tank the 'pewter' color. With limited lighting inside these old trucks, black can make the interior dark. I'm under the assumption that lighter colors will keep the feeling brighter inside - one of many attempts at zen I'll continue to pursue in my life.
What’s really cool are the details on parts. I was really impressed seeing teq stamp on the temperature sending unit.
With wire wheel in hand, rehabilitation commenced on glovebox and fuel tank. This glovebox came from @Krondor I try to give credit where I remember to those that have helped me. Here are a few before and after:
After
I chose to paint the tank the 'pewter' color. With limited lighting inside these old trucks, black can make the interior dark. I'm under the assumption that lighter colors will keep the feeling brighter inside - one of many attempts at zen I'll continue to pursue in my life.
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- www.marksoffroad.net
- Thread starter
- #129
I have a note to look for your carb studs in the morning; just too hectic today. Didn’t even get to call @tdskip back until 7:30.
I know you have a lot going on. Wishing you the best! I know you shared details in your own thread. Thanks for the support and I hope this community returns the favor.
Best wishes
Charles
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Charles
I do not have any studs available. As I recalled, they are 1.5 pitch in the manifold, 1.25 on carb end. 45mm long. If you get some 10mm stock, you can cut some with a couple of dies...and make a couple extra for me!
I do not have any studs available. As I recalled, they are 1.5 pitch in the manifold, 1.25 on carb end. 45mm long. If you get some 10mm stock, you can cut some with a couple of dies...and make a couple extra for me!
- Thread starter
- #132
Ever have a list of things you never intended to do? I do. A lot of my list comes from this project.
I never planned to remove the steering box. It was fine, had a little play but importantly- didn’t leak.
Well, here are sights of the box before I removed it.
And now today after cleaning it up and repainting.
After removing it, I planned to rebuild it. I took it apart, cleaned it up and then made my own gaskets. Hope it still doesn’t leak. Will get some gear oil and find out soon enough.
I never planned to remove the steering box. It was fine, had a little play but importantly- didn’t leak.
Well, here are sights of the box before I removed it.
And now today after cleaning it up and repainting.
After removing it, I planned to rebuild it. I took it apart, cleaned it up and then made my own gaskets. Hope it still doesn’t leak. Will get some gear oil and find out soon enough.
- Thread starter
- #134
Going to classify this activity from the ‘never intended’ file to ‘guess while I’m here’. (They’re really not too far apart)
Some actual tech perhaps beyond wire wheeling. Since the driver front fender hasn’t gone back on yet, I figured I would tidy up more parts of the steering box.
I ordered 75w/140 gear oil to go back in the steering box.
Amazon product ASIN B0049J5FJY
I believe the normal is 75w/90. If anyone believes the thicker oil is a mistake let me know... I have a few days before it is delivered!
On to more tech...
I had a drag link rebuild kit from SOR:
I Figure while it’s apart, may as well...
Here you can see the pieces that are included with the kit.
I chose to reuse the old end screw because it was flat and more screwdriver friendly. I was also forced to reuse the old zerk fitting as the new one from kit wouldn’t thread in with the new dust boot installed.
Think I was lucky because the screw was quite easy to remove. Here’s a shot of looking into it with screw and spring removed
I had to tap out the cups.
After putting the new parts back in, I made sure to put anti-seize on the threads to make certain if I have to redo this, the screw should back out with managable effort.
Final assembly after regreasing:
Should note that the new dust cover is more substantial and Encompasses the end link more than just the pitman arm ball
Some actual tech perhaps beyond wire wheeling. Since the driver front fender hasn’t gone back on yet, I figured I would tidy up more parts of the steering box.
I ordered 75w/140 gear oil to go back in the steering box.
Amazon product ASIN B0049J5FJY
I believe the normal is 75w/90. If anyone believes the thicker oil is a mistake let me know... I have a few days before it is delivered!
On to more tech...
I had a drag link rebuild kit from SOR:
I Figure while it’s apart, may as well...
Here you can see the pieces that are included with the kit.
I chose to reuse the old end screw because it was flat and more screwdriver friendly. I was also forced to reuse the old zerk fitting as the new one from kit wouldn’t thread in with the new dust boot installed.
Think I was lucky because the screw was quite easy to remove. Here’s a shot of looking into it with screw and spring removed
I had to tap out the cups.
After putting the new parts back in, I made sure to put anti-seize on the threads to make certain if I have to redo this, the screw should back out with managable effort.
Final assembly after regreasing:
Should note that the new dust cover is more substantial and Encompasses the end link more than just the pitman arm ball
- Thread starter
- #135
Can of worms - I’ve opened many on this project and today was a special one when it came to refurbishing the blower box.
With most parts getting spruced up and repainted or replaced, having an ugly blower box was not in the cards.
A good idea all started when I found a ‘blower box restore kit on SOR website. Spoiler alert- don’t waste your money. The $26 kit is mostly useless
Photo evidence:
Considering I’m learning as I go, and disassembling the box for proper paint brought on a new surprise to me. Specifically when I opened up the top where I expected to find an electric motor. I did.. completely raw And removal of the ‘cap’ came with a fair amount of electric motor bits springing out and all over the floor.
I guess I was expecting a fully encased / replaceable motor. Turns out the heater box is the actual encasement for the motor.
After finding what I hope was all the pieces, I set out to wire wheel and paint the box.
Here it sits, most worms back in the can
If you learned anything from this post, avoid SOR Heater Blower Restore Kit. It’s foam tape and 3 screws. Literally. Go buy $20 of beer and a powerball lotto ticket and have more fun with $26
With most parts getting spruced up and repainted or replaced, having an ugly blower box was not in the cards.
A good idea all started when I found a ‘blower box restore kit on SOR website. Spoiler alert- don’t waste your money. The $26 kit is mostly useless
Photo evidence:
Considering I’m learning as I go, and disassembling the box for proper paint brought on a new surprise to me. Specifically when I opened up the top where I expected to find an electric motor. I did.. completely raw And removal of the ‘cap’ came with a fair amount of electric motor bits springing out and all over the floor.
I guess I was expecting a fully encased / replaceable motor. Turns out the heater box is the actual encasement for the motor.
After finding what I hope was all the pieces, I set out to wire wheel and paint the box.
Here it sits, most worms back in the can
If you learned anything from this post, avoid SOR Heater Blower Restore Kit. It’s foam tape and 3 screws. Literally. Go buy $20 of beer and a powerball lotto ticket and have more fun with $26
Jungle80farmer
Jungle Fruit Farmer
That thing Is CLEAN! I'm glad you you went with your gut and bought the 1st one you looked at. I did the same thing back in 2002 and I still got it. Enjoy your new baby
- Thread starter
- #137
Unintentional bad ideas: I discovered a 'true friend' test:
In reassembling the 40, I needed to mount the brace that runs between the dash and firewall for the parking brake lever. The challenge is you must thread two bolts that are tucked up and under the dash where there is simply no space to reach. Laying upside down, on my back, twisting and dropping the bolts multiple times over an hour I finally was able to get the bolts threaded.
So here's the test between friends:
Question - What are you doing? Answer- Oh man, I'm about to spend a frustrating hour or two threading two stupid bolts, hit me up tomorrow and we can hang out.
RESULT - True Friend
If the dialogue goes something like: Answer - Hey, come on over and help me thread two little bolts for the parking brake brace
RESULT - That dude is a jerk and you should unfriend them immediately. Seriously. know what side of this conversation you are on and everyone will know your intentions.
OK, after the social experiment share, here are results of a little POR-15 work on pedals and a completed parking brake mechanism mounted
Wires will get attention as I bundle it up for final connections.
Here's a shot of the part number for the left side cowl vent tube. This was also a pain in the rear to connect, but after the parking brake brace I felt like it was equivalent to teenagers picking on you vs full on water boarding.
I acquired an insulator from @65swb45 as I'm going to Aisan Carb vs the old Weber it had on before. Challenge here was my stud bolts were WAY too short to accommodate the thick insulator. I ordered these from summit racing: Dorman Exhaust Manifold Mounting Hardware 3102
They ended up too long, but only because of the step down. I used a cutting wheel and shaved off a bit to make the stud 58mm in length. This was perfect and I was able to mount the carb and spacer. Down side- I only had a 17mm nut that would thread over the 1.5 pitch threads. Looks funky, I may fix it later.
Carb sits a lot higher, so may need adjusting to get the air cleaner to fit properly.
I continue to find hidden gems of incompetence from the painter. They didn't paint the underside of the running boards. I figure this was pretty important, as I'd hate to see bare metal rust away in just a couple years. I primed and painted them:
and then mounted them up, taking care as I had to open up a couple hole that got covered in body filler. I'm not sure what to expect, but after 12k for a paint job I still expect better detail.
In reassembling the 40, I needed to mount the brace that runs between the dash and firewall for the parking brake lever. The challenge is you must thread two bolts that are tucked up and under the dash where there is simply no space to reach. Laying upside down, on my back, twisting and dropping the bolts multiple times over an hour I finally was able to get the bolts threaded.
So here's the test between friends:
Question - What are you doing? Answer- Oh man, I'm about to spend a frustrating hour or two threading two stupid bolts, hit me up tomorrow and we can hang out.
RESULT - True Friend
If the dialogue goes something like: Answer - Hey, come on over and help me thread two little bolts for the parking brake brace
RESULT - That dude is a jerk and you should unfriend them immediately. Seriously. know what side of this conversation you are on and everyone will know your intentions.
OK, after the social experiment share, here are results of a little POR-15 work on pedals and a completed parking brake mechanism mounted
Wires will get attention as I bundle it up for final connections.
Here's a shot of the part number for the left side cowl vent tube. This was also a pain in the rear to connect, but after the parking brake brace I felt like it was equivalent to teenagers picking on you vs full on water boarding.
I acquired an insulator from @65swb45 as I'm going to Aisan Carb vs the old Weber it had on before. Challenge here was my stud bolts were WAY too short to accommodate the thick insulator. I ordered these from summit racing: Dorman Exhaust Manifold Mounting Hardware 3102
They ended up too long, but only because of the step down. I used a cutting wheel and shaved off a bit to make the stud 58mm in length. This was perfect and I was able to mount the carb and spacer. Down side- I only had a 17mm nut that would thread over the 1.5 pitch threads. Looks funky, I may fix it later.
Carb sits a lot higher, so may need adjusting to get the air cleaner to fit properly.
I continue to find hidden gems of incompetence from the painter. They didn't paint the underside of the running boards. I figure this was pretty important, as I'd hate to see bare metal rust away in just a couple years. I primed and painted them:
and then mounted them up, taking care as I had to open up a couple hole that got covered in body filler. I'm not sure what to expect, but after 12k for a paint job I still expect better detail.
- Thread starter
- #138
Three year itch - It's been 3 years since I started on this journey. Considering the ups and downs one thing is consistent - have patience. Even the smallest task (running a hose) can be a pain in the ass and take over an hour.
Speaking of running hose, I received a great heater valve for the '67 from @65swb45 so it was time to run heater hose. The old hose and valve was an abomination of parts that belonged on a wrecked Chrysler. I couldn't tell you if the valve was stuck open or closed but I could guarantee it had to go. Here it is from a few months ago:
With proper valve in hand, it was time to run new heater hose. Here's a shot of new valve:
I figure I'll run another valve from the radiator side. The cab of these trucks aren't described as cool and refreshing in the summer and the more heat I shut off, the better. Here I ran the hose along the engine between plug wires and the block. This was a pain in the rear.
View from in the cab, Ill run hose to the rear heater too:
I'm still a bit lost on what goes where for the wiring. There are a few extra connectors that I'm uncertain where they terminate. Most of my issue is lack of a good guide to tell me what belongs. The old wiring was from an aftermarket harness so notes taken at disassembly are completely useless. You can see the wires in shot above, but I'll call out what they are and maybe someone can chime in:
Editing here to share answers:
Connector with Red/White and Red/Yellow = fog light
Stray Red/Green wire with female bullet connector = Vader light if present, if not - this will plug into the black wire below for dome light
Stray black wire with male bullet connector (this one is near the wiper switch bundle) = dome light (other end comes out top of windshield in the wiper bundle)
Stray White/black wire with ring terminal = ground
Speaking of running hose, I received a great heater valve for the '67 from @65swb45 so it was time to run heater hose. The old hose and valve was an abomination of parts that belonged on a wrecked Chrysler. I couldn't tell you if the valve was stuck open or closed but I could guarantee it had to go. Here it is from a few months ago:
With proper valve in hand, it was time to run new heater hose. Here's a shot of new valve:
I figure I'll run another valve from the radiator side. The cab of these trucks aren't described as cool and refreshing in the summer and the more heat I shut off, the better. Here I ran the hose along the engine between plug wires and the block. This was a pain in the rear.
View from in the cab, Ill run hose to the rear heater too:
I'm still a bit lost on what goes where for the wiring. There are a few extra connectors that I'm uncertain where they terminate. Most of my issue is lack of a good guide to tell me what belongs. The old wiring was from an aftermarket harness so notes taken at disassembly are completely useless. You can see the wires in shot above, but I'll call out what they are and maybe someone can chime in:
Editing here to share answers:
Connector with Red/White and Red/Yellow = fog light
Stray Red/Green wire with female bullet connector = Vader light if present, if not - this will plug into the black wire below for dome light
Stray black wire with male bullet connector (this one is near the wiper switch bundle) = dome light (other end comes out top of windshield in the wiper bundle)
Stray White/black wire with ring terminal = ground
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- Thread starter
- #139
Memorial weekend puttering:
I really wanted to reduce the amount of heat coming into the cab via heater hose. I bought this heater valve from summit racing
www.summitracing.com
And installed it right where at hose return. Hoping between this valve and the one at the top of head will keep all hot coolant out and provide a little relief. (Disregard the manifold and hot engine)
got the driver side fender aligned and running board installed.
Also driver seat with new foam from SOR and covers from @Cruiser Corps
still need to tidy the bottom of the seat but I think quite a nice improvement over old seat
of course wire wheeling and fresh paint make for a prettier seat frame.
the slider had very limited movement. I found the seat would bind against the mounting bolts. By putting a single washer on the underside of the bolt allowed much more movement and adjustability of seat position.
Here are the 4 bolts you’d want to add a washer to for full front/back:
thanks to @pardion for a very nice grab handle to replace one lost by painters:
I really wanted to reduce the amount of heat coming into the cab via heater hose. I bought this heater valve from summit racing
Four Seasons 84706 Four Seasons Manual Shut-Off Valves | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Four Seasons Manual Shut-Off Valves with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Heater Valves at Summit Racing.
got the driver side fender aligned and running board installed.
Also driver seat with new foam from SOR and covers from @Cruiser Corps
still need to tidy the bottom of the seat but I think quite a nice improvement over old seat
of course wire wheeling and fresh paint make for a prettier seat frame.
the slider had very limited movement. I found the seat would bind against the mounting bolts. By putting a single washer on the underside of the bolt allowed much more movement and adjustability of seat position.
Here are the 4 bolts you’d want to add a washer to for full front/back:
thanks to @pardion for a very nice grab handle to replace one lost by painters:
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- Thread starter
- #140
Reproduction early acorn hubcaps
@Speedsail2001 sells these on EBay rather affordable. I purchased them back in 2017. Finally mounted them to see how they look.
I still have the originals, but they’re beat to hell. Early on I shipped them to advanced plating in Nashville to have them reworked. The shop returned them in a box and said their process would eat up the caps. Reproduction it is.
@Speedsail2001 sells these on EBay rather affordable. I purchased them back in 2017. Finally mounted them to see how they look.
I still have the originals, but they’re beat to hell. Early on I shipped them to advanced plating in Nashville to have them reworked. The shop returned them in a box and said their process would eat up the caps. Reproduction it is.
