Builds WTF did I buy - Project do it right the second time (1 Viewer)
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Why don't you just upgrade to an electric fan and shroud?
- Thread starter
- #104
I found this one for sale in classifieds.
SOLD - Radiator fan for FJ40
I have a radiator fan for sale around Atlanta,GA. Asking $20 plus shipping.
forum.ih8mud.com
If I planned to use this as a trail rig crawling at low speeds, I’d probably consider an electric fan. Since I hope it will be more of a beauty queen, I plan for ranch roads and low water crossings to be the extent of off-road for this 40.
reddog90
SILVER Star
I love this color!
- Thread starter
- #106
I put parts back on the 40 this weekend!
A shipment of gaskets arrived so I was able to mount the fuel pump after removing for engine paint. I’m on the search for glass bowl fuel filter and bracket to get back to OEM.
When I pulled out the distributor there was a gasket at the base. I couldn’t find this gasket in any manuals to repurchase so I bought gasket paper and made one.
After spending most of my Saturday refreshing my old water pump, I installed the new one I purchased from SOR. I will hold onto my old one for now just in case there’s an issue with the new 5 blade plastic fan I purchased. Old water pump after refresh:
Next l, I’m contemplating removing the crankshaft pulley so I can paint the timing cover and put a new seal in while apart. Only reservation is: it doesn’t leak oil here and there’s nothing wrong aside from old paint. Of course good enough hasn’t stopped me yet from tearing in further!
A shipment of gaskets arrived so I was able to mount the fuel pump after removing for engine paint. I’m on the search for glass bowl fuel filter and bracket to get back to OEM.
When I pulled out the distributor there was a gasket at the base. I couldn’t find this gasket in any manuals to repurchase so I bought gasket paper and made one.
After spending most of my Saturday refreshing my old water pump, I installed the new one I purchased from SOR. I will hold onto my old one for now just in case there’s an issue with the new 5 blade plastic fan I purchased. Old water pump after refresh:
Next l, I’m contemplating removing the crankshaft pulley so I can paint the timing cover and put a new seal in while apart. Only reservation is: it doesn’t leak oil here and there’s nothing wrong aside from old paint. Of course good enough hasn’t stopped me yet from tearing in further!
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- Thread starter
- #107
I’m not a big football fan, so luck would have it that I got to spend some time on the ‘67.
I’m getting good at talking myself into going deeper on this project. I bought a harmonic balancer puller from harbor freight and removed the pulley/balancer combo that’s pressed into the crankshaft. This allowed removal of the timing cover. I will share that I had to insert a 13mm socket to add as a shim to fully remove the pulley. The puller wasn’t long enough to get the job done.
Story of my life! Oh wait, what were we talking about?
With the pulley out of way, I got to work with my wire wheel and started stripping paint. Word of advice (because I know you all tuned into this thread for advice): always wear gloves. I was just finishing up on the pulley when the wire wheel bit me.
Ignore the osha approved safety sandals in background - I’m a pro, trust me!
I decided to add color to the engine bay. An homage to my red hair and the blood I’ve shed and will shed on this damn build:
I’m getting good at talking myself into going deeper on this project. I bought a harmonic balancer puller from harbor freight and removed the pulley/balancer combo that’s pressed into the crankshaft. This allowed removal of the timing cover. I will share that I had to insert a 13mm socket to add as a shim to fully remove the pulley. The puller wasn’t long enough to get the job done.
Story of my life! Oh wait, what were we talking about?
With the pulley out of way, I got to work with my wire wheel and started stripping paint. Word of advice (because I know you all tuned into this thread for advice): always wear gloves. I was just finishing up on the pulley when the wire wheel bit me.
Ignore the osha approved safety sandals in background - I’m a pro, trust me!
I decided to add color to the engine bay. An homage to my red hair and the blood I’ve shed and will shed on this damn build:
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You didn’t mention the filter bracket when you ordered the spacers. I have the bracket, along with the OE style filter with the metal bowl. I can add the to your order if you want to wait a couple more days.
Also, that distributor is not correct; all F135s had vacuum advance dizzys.
I stock those too.
- Thread starter
- #109
Mark,You didn’t mention the filter bracket when you ordered the spacers. I have the bracket, along with the OE style filter with the metal bowl. I can add the to your order if you want to wait a couple more days.
Also, that distributor is not correct; all F135s had vacuum advance dizzys.
I stock those too.
I’ll call you Monday so I can send you the funds for making it all right! Thanks for checking in.
Charles
- Thread starter
- #110
With two 40’s in various stages of running and not even close to running, there’s always something to do.
My ‘68 had a tendency to run hot while in stop and go traffic or just Texas heat so I ordered a new thermostat and a used plastic fan to replace the 4 blade buzzsaw. Project do it right the second time in Full effect, I boiled out my ‘67 radiator a couple weeks ago and it was now going into my ‘68 as I decided to source a new radiator for the’67.
I had great pleasure of @shermantank55 assisting me this weekend as we skipped football and split duty on the 40’s. I ran a wire wheel to do my best impression of a depression era oil fieldworker while working on the ‘67. He ran point on the simple task of replacing the old metal fan and old thermostat on the ‘68. Easy???
Greg did a great job removing the old radiator and installing a new one, all while sampling the best vintage of prestone ala rust.
With new radiator and new thermostat installed, project do it right second time came full circle as we discovered that the plastic fan was still sitting one the floor.
Do over and after an exciting ‘burping’ the ‘68 is holding temperature as it should!!! Great work Greg!
Unfortunately we didn’t take photos of the excitement. we aren’t ready to give up the facade we know what we’re doing. The good news is no burns!
The ‘67 took a few more hours of wire wheeling, but the rear axle saw first coat of POR-15.
This gets the tub closer to back on. Left yet is installing a wire harness from @Coolerman and reinstalling the brake lines.
My ‘68 had a tendency to run hot while in stop and go traffic or just Texas heat so I ordered a new thermostat and a used plastic fan to replace the 4 blade buzzsaw. Project do it right the second time in Full effect, I boiled out my ‘67 radiator a couple weeks ago and it was now going into my ‘68 as I decided to source a new radiator for the’67.
I had great pleasure of @shermantank55 assisting me this weekend as we skipped football and split duty on the 40’s. I ran a wire wheel to do my best impression of a depression era oil fieldworker while working on the ‘67. He ran point on the simple task of replacing the old metal fan and old thermostat on the ‘68. Easy???
Greg did a great job removing the old radiator and installing a new one, all while sampling the best vintage of prestone ala rust.
With new radiator and new thermostat installed, project do it right second time came full circle as we discovered that the plastic fan was still sitting one the floor.
Do over and after an exciting ‘burping’ the ‘68 is holding temperature as it should!!! Great work Greg!
Unfortunately we didn’t take photos of the excitement. we aren’t ready to give up the facade we know what we’re doing. The good news is no burns!
The ‘67 took a few more hours of wire wheeling, but the rear axle saw first coat of POR-15.
This gets the tub closer to back on. Left yet is installing a wire harness from @Coolerman and reinstalling the brake lines.
- Thread starter
- #111
Not highly a technical update but progress to report. I finally applied POR-15 to the front axle and leaf springs.
If you’re considering POR15, I would recommend buying the small six pack. Link here: Amazon product ASIN B003SA053G.
Reason being is this stuff will never seal up right so unless you’re ready to paint an entire quart at once, most will go unused. Ask me how I know...
If you’re considering POR15, I would recommend buying the small six pack. Link here: Amazon product ASIN B003SA053G.
Reason being is this stuff will never seal up right so unless you’re ready to paint an entire quart at once, most will go unused. Ask me how I know...
- Thread starter
- #112
Project do it right the second time had a productive weekend. Started the beautiful day sanding out brush strokes left behind from initial POR-15 coating. Par for the course when you’re learning while doing.
Also used a tool normally reserved to clean dryer vents as a way to apply POR-15 inside the frame rails. Worked well as the flexible tune connects to a drill which allows you to rotate the brush while in the rails. Definitely messy work.
Wire wheeled, primered and then applied dupli-color stainless steel to hard brake lines
Mounted the battery tray and glass bowl fuel filter.
Dropped in a oem radiator into the reassembled shroud and bracket. Also, I installed the coil in the proper direction, because god forbid I do it correct the first try.
Also used a tool normally reserved to clean dryer vents as a way to apply POR-15 inside the frame rails. Worked well as the flexible tune connects to a drill which allows you to rotate the brush while in the rails. Definitely messy work.
Wire wheeled, primered and then applied dupli-color stainless steel to hard brake lines
Mounted the battery tray and glass bowl fuel filter.
Dropped in a oem radiator into the reassembled shroud and bracket. Also, I installed the coil in the proper direction, because god forbid I do it correct the first try.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Dang that’s looking nice. I used a toilet bowl brush duck taped to a stick to paint the inside of my frame. I thought that was appropriate 
. Got a F135 sticker for that valve cover?
. Got a F135 sticker for that valve cover?
Move the flange out. It will move. Nice build!
- Thread starter
- #117
Today’s update is air cleaner work.
@kevos37 was willing to part with a sentimental piece from his amazing build. It was the air cleaner to his project which was lost in the Paradise fires. I wanted to make sure I’d give a new life to this piece so I set out to refurbish it.
Most of the clean up I’ve done on this truck involved extensive wire wheeling and then paint. It works so far, and I’ve also use a high temperature clear coat to ensure durability.
After the first session of wire wheeling:
It took 3 different sessions to get the housing clean for paint. I still wasn’t able to get it down to 100% clean metal. Due to uneven surface I decided to POR-15 the air cleaner assembly. It would say flat and I could sand/ then top coat to get a smooth finish.
Final result:
@kevos37 was willing to part with a sentimental piece from his amazing build. It was the air cleaner to his project which was lost in the Paradise fires. I wanted to make sure I’d give a new life to this piece so I set out to refurbish it.
Most of the clean up I’ve done on this truck involved extensive wire wheeling and then paint. It works so far, and I’ve also use a high temperature clear coat to ensure durability.
After the first session of wire wheeling:
It took 3 different sessions to get the housing clean for paint. I still wasn’t able to get it down to 100% clean metal. Due to uneven surface I decided to POR-15 the air cleaner assembly. It would say flat and I could sand/ then top coat to get a smooth finish.
Final result:
Nice Job, looks beautiful! !!
- Thread starter
- #119
Covid-19 update: no, I didn’t catch it yet... but paycheck earning work was slow today so I spent time on the ‘67 project.
I found a NOS exhaust manifold for the Siamese head on my ‘67 and decided to finally install it.
Remflex sells the heat riser and manifold gasket kit so that makes it easy.
What doesn’t make it easy is originally the manifold used studs. SOR sold bolts to mate the intake and exhaust but they were not the correct size for holes in the manifold.
Ended up tapping them to 10x1.25
I spent more time going back and forth with SOR to find studs than to tap all the holes
Here’s the result, even mounted the new exhaust pipe
if you buy the SOR factory exhaust kit, expect to hammer the exhaust clamp on past some welds. It’s a tight fit.
My ‘68 had split its exhaust manifold so I installed a header there was able to scavenge the spring and get it to work with my new manifold I give it 10 miles before it seizes shut when I get it running
I found a NOS exhaust manifold for the Siamese head on my ‘67 and decided to finally install it.
Remflex sells the heat riser and manifold gasket kit so that makes it easy.
What doesn’t make it easy is originally the manifold used studs. SOR sold bolts to mate the intake and exhaust but they were not the correct size for holes in the manifold.
Ended up tapping them to 10x1.25
I spent more time going back and forth with SOR to find studs than to tap all the holes
Here’s the result, even mounted the new exhaust pipe
if you buy the SOR factory exhaust kit, expect to hammer the exhaust clamp on past some welds. It’s a tight fit.
My ‘68 had split its exhaust manifold so I installed a header there was able to scavenge the spring and get it to work with my new manifold I give it 10 miles before it seizes shut when I get it running
- Thread starter
- #120
When to test fit the air cleaner I got from @kevos37 and found something that puzzles me. The first head bolt was RUSTY. Is this normal or sign of something wrong? Btw, it was a complete pain in the rear to back out. I was really glad I didn’t break the bolt off.
I put anti seize on the bolts and mounted the air cleaner bracket. And then mocked up carb and air cleaner
I put anti seize on the bolts and mounted the air cleaner bracket. And then mocked up carb and air cleaner
