Write-up: Toss the LSPV and install a manual proportioning valve (2 Viewers)

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Somebodyelse5 said:
Am I crazy for thinking that deleting the LSPV and maintaining ABS will prevent the rear from locking up?

The system is already inherently front brake biased based on piston # and size.
Click to expand...
I don't think you want to rely on the ABS activating to regulate the rear brakes. Although it will keep you from locking the tires, IMO having the brakes pulsate reduces their effectiveness. It's better than having the tires locked on a slippery road in a panic situation, but not so good for everyday driving.
 
PeterTheBeater said:
I learned that the “long” style OEM fitting will not work with the adapters (not enough thread engagement), so you have to use the “short” side. This caused me a headache as I had to rebend one of the lines, and it looks like crap.

View attachment 3257899View attachment 3257900
Click to expand...

IF/when reusing the OEM lines, the ends that went into the 'Tee' below the Master Cylinder all have a slight 'lead' built into them. So if you place that end into a shallow fitting....there won't be much thread engagement and a leak might occur.

It's an easy thing to overlook.

Loop Line.jpg

Loop Line fitting Tee.jpg
 
bhsdriller said:
Correct, delete and not install a valve for now
Click to expand...
Gotcha.

So your original question was 'do you just need to connect lines 2 & 3 (under the hood) after having joined the two upper lines at the LSPV in the rear.

ABS legend.jpg


The answer to that is yes, but let me offer a simpler solution.

For your purposes (disabling the LSPV but not adding a P-valve) we need only concern ourselves with what to do with the 'sense line' that goes from the passenger side 'Tee Down Under' to the LSPV. We can't have that circuit open and leaking.

Some folks remove all the lines at the Tee below the Master Cylinder and then join lines 2 & 3 with a coupler leaving the sense line dangling. Those 'front' brake lines in OEM form go from the Master Cylinder down the Tee, then come right back out of the Tee to the 'In' port on the top tier of your ABS module. That is why we need to join them together (at their Tee ends) IF you choose to remove the Tee.

I propose (for your purpose) that you leave all the lines intact at the Tee and instead go down to the 'L' in the Sense Line which is on a bracket at the Drivers Side wheel well and just plug that line there. Remove the fitting on the line that goes to the rear of the vehicle. Install a steel (pressure rated) plug into the 'L' and you are done.

This would work well also for folks wanting to first 'test' the deletion of the LSPV and it is completely reversible. No need to re-bend lines up in the engine compartment and join anything there. For that matter... you wouldn't have to remove the LSPV itself either, we are just disabling it.

You could also plug the circuit at the 'Tee' itself (passenger side port) and accomplish the same thing but its easier to reach the 'L' in the fender well.
 
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Gotcha that would actually be better like you said would make it easily reversible if needed.
Thanks!

@flintknapper
I was thinking I needed that L in the driver side wheel well to join the lines at the LSPV itself, but with the "sense line" plugged at L I can just then leave the LSPV and all lines back there alone?
It wouldn't be operational at that point.
 
bhsdriller said:
Gotcha that would actually be better like you said would make it easily reversible if needed.
Thanks!

@flintknapper
I was thinking I needed that L in the driver side wheel well to join the lines at the LSPV itself, but with the "sense line" plugged at L I can just then leave the LSPV and all lines back there alone?
It wouldn't be operational at that point.
Click to expand...

No...go ahead and remove the two upper lines of the LSPV and couple them together for your rear brakes. Plug the sense line at the 'L' in the drivers side wheel well and bleed the system front and rear. The sense line doesn't control when/how the the LSPV works in the manner you might be thinking, it needs to be bypassed.
 
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Got rid of the LSPV this weekend and was surprised how much of a difference it made. Braking feels much better should of done it sooner.

Used one of the above pictured plugs from Belmetric and plugged at the tee under the master for the line going back to the LSPV.
Removed the elbow in the wheel well and used it to join the lines at the back.
 
bhsdriller said:
@flintknapper can't get the L I used at the juction from the driver wheel well to stop leaking. Where did you source the tee you posted.
Looks like this one is the right size

Amazon product ASIN B0841ZMKVK
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Yes, that should work. The 'Tee' has a deep port and threads. You can also use a standard 'coupler' and bend the lines to accommodate the angle required, but easier to use an 'L' or 'T'.

Whichever fitting you choose... it needs to have a deep port and be M10 x 1.0 inverted flare.
 
bhsdriller said:
@flintknapper can't get the L I used at the junction from the driver wheel well to stop leaking. Where did you source the tee you posted.
Looks like this one is the right size

Click to expand...
There are also many useable parts from the 80 series and other LC brake system you can use. I have seen them cheaper than the Amazon part you listed and you know they will work. Just grind the bracket off...
1678319937194.png
 
Cool thanks. Yeah like I said the factory elbow I removed and used is leaking but maybe just needs a cleaning or something.
I'll check it out again
 
Going to install the Wilwood valve (1/8 npt threaded - ordered M10 x 1.0 female to 1/8-27 male adapters) in the stock location because of this:

IMG_7807.jpeg


I was going to use the L from the driver’s wheel well in place of the T under the MC but it seems much easier to just plug the “sense” line off the factory T with the above bolt.

Speaking of the “sense” line - are there any detrimental effects of pulling it if I’m keeping ABS?
 
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Drift Monkey said:
Going to install the Wilwood valve (1/8 npt threaded - ordered M10 x 1.0 female to 1/8-27 male adapters) in the stock location because of this:

View attachment 3312409

I was going to use the L from the driver’s wheel well in place of the T under the MC but it seems much easier to just plug the “sense” line off the factory T with the above bolt.

Speaking of the “sense” line - are there any detrimental effects of pulling it if I’m keeping ABS?
Click to expand...

I think technically the proportioning valve will do the same job as what the sense line was meant. But I think it would be better to disconnected it, as I imagine bleeding it would be very hard lol.


This is also my 2? month update. Brakes been phenomenal. Took to donner pass right when it started snowing, super slick snow, and adjusted my rear brakes to lock up at the same time as my fronts, around 5-8 turns.
 
PeterTheBeater said:
I think technically the proportioning valve will do the same job as what the sense line was meant. But I think it would be better to disconnected it, as I imagine bleeding it would be very hard lol.


This is also my 2? month update. Brakes been phenomenal. Took to donner pass right when it started snowing, super slick snow, and adjusted my rear brakes to lock up at the same time as my fronts, around 5-8 turns.
Click to expand...
I removed it - here’s what I came up with:

IMG_7977.jpeg
 
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