Wrestling the H55F (1 Viewer)

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I'm exhausted. Wore slap out. I tried for almost 6 hours to install the 5 speed into my 40. The tub is off. I have an engine hoist and a lift used for motorcycles. I tried from the top...I tried from the bottom. Over and over and over. Measurement wise I should have 1/2" between the parking brake housing and the chassis crossmember AFTER installation. Getting the input shaft lined up and clearing the crossmember ain't happening. So what is the old dumbass missing. Are there magic words to say? Am I not holding my mouth right? Is there a god I need to make a sacrifice too.
 
It was tight on my install and I’m not running the parking break of the transfer case. I’m in agreement with @archie73 Tilt the engine just enough to allow for clearance of the parking brake drum.
 
When I installed my NV4500 I used pretty much the same setup you are using, except I had to do it with the body on. The advantage I had is my transfer case was not installed yet. This allowed more than enough room to get the trans lined up with the engine and mate to the bellhousing. Once it was bolted up I slipped on the transfer case. When doing it leave the emergency brake drum low get everything engaged and rotate up to get the mounting bolts in. The rear mount was last.

If you scroll down to post #13 in this thread I have some pictures that may help.
 
Just spit balling here, but couldn't a guy make the cross member removable or move it back a tad to give you room to install?
 
Just spit balling here, but couldn't a guy make the cross member removable or move it back a tad to give you room to install?
I'm considering it but the gas tank is underneath and I question whether moving the cross member my interfere with the gas tank.
 
If going in through the top, could you tilt the engine up? Or down if going firm underneath? My bigger question is how will you service the ebrake/transfer after everything is put back together?
I am second guessing keeping the parking brake on the TC. I would still need a cover for the shaft exiting the transfer case.
 
If going in through the top, could you tilt the engine up? Or down if going firm underneath? My bigger question is how will you service the ebrake/transfer after everything is put back together?
How do I tilt the engine? I only have 1 hoist and there isn't a snowball's chance that it will hold the engine and transfer case at the same time.
 
how to tilt the engine?

what are you using for the rear engine/trans mount? still on the bellhousing or using a crossmember?
use a floorjack under the oil pan with a piece of wood or steel plate to spread the load on the oil pan
leave front mounts attached they will give enough, you don't want to go too far and have the fan contact the radiator
 
how to tilt the engine?

what are you using for the rear engine/trans mount? still on the bellhousing or using a crossmember?
use a floorjack under the oil pan with a piece of wood or steel plate to spread the load on the oil pan
leave front mounts attached they will give enough, you don't want to go too far and have the fan contact the radiator
The only thing left on the chassis is the engine so I will give that a shot. I will be installing the transmission support that goes with the 5 speed.
 
When I installed my new transmission and transfer case, I cut out my crossmember and burned these in. Not sure how handy you are with a welder but these are clutch.

 
@Jordan85 he has the stock 3-piece cross member. There’s no fabrication needed to mount the H55F if the truck came equipped with a split transfer case.
 
Like @3_puppies said, use a floor jack to tilt the engine. like he said, keep an eye on anything making contact that shouldn’t.

A removable cross member would make a ton of sense here, but I understand that is easy for me to say. You could still continue on your tranny install and circle back to it. I will say that once the body is back on it gets more complicated. if the mounts @Jordan85 showed you could resist twist, then they would be ideal.
 
@Jordan85 he has the stock 3-piece cross member. There’s no fabrication needed to mount the H55F if the truck came equipped with a split transfer case.

1980 still used the bellhousing mounts for the rear, trans crossmember did not come out until the 1981 model year, if the OP has the 40 series crossmember, which is shorter than the 60 series version, he just needs to drill 8 holes to mount the side "L" brackets

A removable cross member would make a ton of sense here, but I understand that is easy for me to say. You could still continue on your tranny install and circle back to it. I will say that once the body is back on it gets more complicated. if the mounts @Jordan85 showed you could resist twist, then they would be ideal.


I'm thinking the OP is talking about the tube crossmember behind the transfer case that is welded to both sides of the frame
 
1980 still used the bellhousing mounts for the rear, trans crossmember did not come out until the 1981 model year, if the OP has the 40 series crossmember, which is shorter than the 60 series version, he just needs to drill 8 holes to mount the side "L" brackets

Going down this path the front area where the L brackets bolt is a hole in the frame.

I bought a used transmission jack since I have a number of cruisers. For one I would rent a transmission jack. The one I have once the transmission and transfer case are secured to it can make angle adjustments. I plan on buying long bolts, nuts and flat washers. Once the transmission is lined up enough to get the bolts started in the bellhousing will slowing tighten the nuts and flat washers which will already be on the bolts. Will have the transmission and transfer case both in gear so I can turn the transfer case output flange to be sure the transmission input shaft is sliding into the pilot bearing and not locking up.

Learned the only way to survive getting older is work smarter not harder.
 
that's not good.


The hole on the 8/80+ is round. Earlier is oblong. Still debating seeing about getting a title for the 3/82 frame and tub I have and install the H55F in that. Or filling in the holes on my 79 frame. Bought a torque tube for behind the transfer case from a late seventies FJ40. Bought it off eBay and seller just cut the frame on both sides.

Oblong hole.
IMG_20180811_153426722.jpg


Torque I have the frame bits to make the holes round.
IMG_20190610_091829413.jpg

Another option is to make a two plates that will fit thru the oblong holes with four fixed nuts welded on.
 
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