Worst Mod you have every done: (1 Viewer)

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My worst mod was an Aussie locker in my front axle and no power steering. That makes for some tough trailing. Especially in rocks!
 
Great thread. I just read the whole thing. I think the only thing mentioned that I bought were the CCOT hoses. I will add a couple of things to the list.

Mentioned before, but worthy of another mention is any rubber aftermarket part that is still available from Toyota.

Solenoids for my Warn 8274 winch for $80 from Herm the 4wd guy. He said they were identical to the original ones. Well they are close, but you have to redrill mounting holes. Oh, and the best part.....they didn't work. Cheap chinese crap. To top it off I sent them back about a month ago and he is still checking them out. I dont think I will ever get my money back. I sent him a check, so no recourse. Bit the bullet and ordered a kit from Warn.

Most of my build has been stock.
 
My biggest regret has gotta be installing the el cheapo CCOT roof gasket 10 years ago, which they have now apparently stopped selling. It's not moulded and does not seal. Water gets under it and rots the gutter from inside out.

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My worst modification to my 76 FJ was installing the front dash hoop on my roll cage. The roll cage was the best modification but I some how bauched the installation. I did not reallize the error of my ways until in the fall I put the hard top back on. The back doors work great as well as the passenger door. The driverside door would not close. I installed the cage about 3/4" to far to the left. I traded a guy for some half doors and only think about it when it rains.

Ten tears later I'm still laughing. Sorry but the punch line is classic.
 
A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away... 19 year old me wanted to get rid of the silly vacuum retard distributor for more horsepowers...so he dropped in an HEI distributor from a chevy straight six, no not the DUI one, it was from a wrecker. Got a few days driving out of it before the engine quit leaving him on the side of the road. After towing it home and finding no spark he threw the whole Napa ignition parts catalog at the HEI unit trying to get it running again. After autopsying the HEI distributor when none of his mastercard troubleshooting worked, he found the rotor had been pulled in to the stator coil from the distributor gear not being fully engaged with the cam. ...damn POs

This happened to me on three different EBAY HEI's built for cruisers. I noticed the bushing that the shaft rides in was a soft bronze while my
OEM GM HEI from a 70's 350 was a cast steel of some sort. The bronze wore down, in each case, after about 17~20,000 miles until the stator
contacted the coil. At that point the inside of the cap looked like a copper cobweb. A DUI version didn't last much longer but the failure was
a different type. Just over 25,000 the weights and springs decided to leave the shaft. Stock HEI's use E-clips to retain the weights and the weights are bushed for a snug fit. The DUI weights are sloppy fit. As per my aggravated phone call to DUI, they decided clips and bushings weren't needed so they were left off the build list. When the weights came off the shaft was damaged. DUI wouldn't send replacement parts since the dizzy was beyond warranty limitations ( manufacturing defects ). Luckily Man-a-fre had several warranty cores laying about and sent a new shaft for free. I bought a Spectre weight kit from Autozone which included both e-clips and bushings. I rebuilt the dizzy properly
and it served me well until the V-8 swap. I haven't bought another DUI since so I don't know if they are still cutting those corners. Since the pins for the weights were already grooved for the e-clips I couldn't understand why they would leave them off. It's an expensive part and the e-clips are about a penny a piece. The bushings can't be much more. and the fit difference is significant..
Here's a proper weight kit and an HEI breakdown showing the e-clips , top left . All of you with one of the HEI's should inspect under the cap for both bushings and e-clips

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Mine is the same as D'Animal. Added a front roll cage to my roll bar without having my doors on. I assumed the hoop was correct for my 40 but alas a little too wide... I mostly run with no doors of with soft doors so not a great travesty. Plus a have a stock roll bar (no front hoop) I can swap if I ever desire to put my hard top back on.
 
Mine is the same as D'Animal. Added a front roll cage to my roll bar without having my doors on. I assumed the hoop was correct for my 40 but alas a little too wide... I mostly run with no doors of with soft doors so not a great travesty. Plus a have a stock roll bar (no front hoop) I can swap if I ever desire to put my hard top back on.

front hoop if made with 2" should be ~49" OD for '75 and later and ~52" for the '74 and earlier
 
Bump...

In 96 I bought a $300 runner 350 with plans to rebuild/replace it in the future. It needed a cam and a chain so I bought a basic stock chain. It's now 21 years in the future... the motor is strong as ever, the chain is done. Even though it only has about 50k miles on it, it's knocking on the timing cover. A few bucks more, and I could be driving it rather than waiting for money to get it fixed. Or, it's not the chain, and I need to find a new engine... perhaps it's time for a Diesel swap... nah, haven't won the lottery ;)
 
My worst "mod" that can't be changed is not being the 1st owner PO myself, because I didn't buy a 40 new when they were still available.

Didn't recognise then the fun of driving a 40 as I was too much with my head in big comfortable "fast" driving cars and restoring French classic cars.


:oops:
 
A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away... Too bad 28 year old me did too much research on mods and wanted to do them all at once . 28 year old me learned it's unwise to take a running, driving land cruiser completely apart to "restore and upgrade" it then spend a large chunk on money on parts that he did't need yet. Now 36 year old me is trying to put it back together on a shoestring budget with no time ...damn POs

I really wanted a four speed (the three speed with nonsychronized 1st was a pain) led me to a complete frame off, SBC, disc front, aqualu 3/4 tub, power steering.... 16 years later it's still not there, but one day... Maybe then it won't be my worst mod...
 
Would have to be the POS Downey "performance" kit (Holley carb, points distributor, headers, and exhaust) I installed on my '78 back in '82 or so. Pulling it off several months later was the real performance improvement. :frown:
 
Would have to be the POS Downey "performance" kit (Holley carb, points distributor, headers, and exhaust) I installed on my '78 back in '82 or so. Pulling it off several months later was the real performance improvement. :frown:


I did the MAF Rochester/ Delco distributer swap in the mid 80's. Never did get the stupid carb to run efficiently and the air cleaner adapter was a joke, distributor worked ok. Mind you, this was way before the interwebs. You had to call and place an order from a printed catalog. That was probably the biggest waste of money and time I can think of.
 
I would say install a roll bar because I never did use it...but that is kinda the point.

Instead Ill go with the Holley carb. Ran great. On flat ground.
as soon as you needed it, it would sneeze and stall.
 
Building a roll cage without having a top
It's too tall and wide at the main hoop
But I can run a bestop without needing any top bows
 
I am currently relocating the painless panel and relays beneath the glove box. I no longer have a stock heater, so the large duct has been removed. The wires are pretty much the right length for relocation, I think. I am still in tear down/ mock up.
 

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