Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (2 Viewers)

[Spike Strip]

Not a freeze plug, more of a oil galley plug.

Cam Expansion Plug 90331-48010 69-93 F/2F/3F

You want to use a new one anyway. Check Jim C's posts on installation. There's a 'correct' way to install so it expands and seals. May be in FSM, don't remember...

2F Cam plug Sanity check!

Hi All, So when i got my '40 it had a dodgy gearbox, so i replaced it, with a rebuilt along with the RMS, OPG, pushrod cover gasket, clutch etc, the whole shabang. All this was to solve a fairly constant oil leak. At the time i was pushed for time as i had to be out of the garage i was...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Not a freeze plug, more of a oil galley plug.

Cam Expansion Plug 90331-48010 69-93 F/2F/3F

You want to use a new one anyway. Check Jim C's posts on installation. There's a 'correct' way to install so it expands and seals. May be in FSM, don't remember...

2F Cam plug Sanity check!

Hi All, So when i got my '40 it had a dodgy gearbox, so i replaced it, with a rebuilt along with the RMS, OPG, pushrod cover gasket, clutch etc, the whole shabang. All this was to solve a fairly constant oil leak. At the time i was pushed for time as i had to be out of the garage i was...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thank you Spike!

 

[OGBeno]

That’s it.

 

[Spike Strip]

Just to be certain, there are two plugs back there -- You mean the large one, yes?

Small one is available too, and is, IIRC, a plug for the oil circuit. You might want to consider replacing that one also, since the block has been hot tanked and the plug is old. (small one, at 11 o'clock, has been removed).

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Cam plug is what I was seeking. The ones on the driver side and that upper center rear all measure for the 50mm I bought from my shop. It’s only that cam plug that’s had us stumped. The 47 is too small, that was my mistake because I measured poorly while distracted by my kid.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Crap, damn, your on it. 11 o’clock I’ll need too. My engine stand blocks my view and I missed that one too. Funny cuz they asked me if I needed another small one because the ‘set’ they would have ordered showed an extra 25mm in it. Thank you!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Dove back into rust remediation today. Driver side rear outer section of frame behind the spring mount locking pin.
I’ve found the best choice to tackle rivets is my dremel with a grinding wheel. Shaved the heads down till I saw the ring from the inner post, drilled a little inward then pried up w/ various tools. Rivet post let’s go of the bracket fairly easily.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Bit more done this AM. Test fit the new body mount hardware. Then typical me... I had to add some color. Once I’ve got the patch welded on I’ll add black to the rail. Then the red will really stand out! Haha!

To get in the tight corners the dremel saved me again. Love the little grinding wheel!

Finally received my chassis book from eBay. $60! Woot!

 

[cps432]

What body mounts are those?

 

[Gretsch]

Bit more done this AM. Test fit the new body mount hardware. Then typical me... I had to add some color. Once I’ve got the patch welded on I’ll add black to the rail. Then the red will really stand out! Haha!

To get in the tight corners the dremel saved me again. Love the little grinding wheel!

Finally received my chassis book from eBay. $60! Woot!

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Man sweet manual. I gotta get a hard copy set of these someday.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

What body mounts are those?

From the dealer. I bought them awhile back. Only piece in the box I can’t use is the spacer, I think... appears it doesn’t go through the floor as it might on another year. I can post p/ns tmrw, at work now.

 

[remy1974]

You going to have it back together for fall gathering

 

[remy1974]

Or wheel the new mazdog

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

You going to have it back together for fall gathering

Doubt it. I do have that weekend off tho for vaca so will see about coming up and begging shotgun.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

A very generous gift arrived... (not from Georg himself). One seal did arrive squished as can see but will get replaced. I can only hope that one day I can extend the same generosity.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Stole an hour and added some welds to my patch. Some are great, some suck. It’s all in the angle, I think, of the gun and how I’m moving the bead.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Good on you for trying to save this beast. You need to move out of the salt. Nevada, California, Arizona, maybe New Mexico. Soon you'll have patches on patches. You have some welding voids. I assume you're using gas outside? Try and get better wind protection and your voids will go away. Even a bit of breeze tends to blow the inert gas off the weld and you're left with a void. But in the end, grind everything flat and no one will ever know.

Frame rust would make me crazy, so good work and keep going.

As an aside, have you removed the vinyl covers over the rear wheel arches? Even here in California I've had some rust spots inside the rear wheel arches on the vertical surface. The PO took it to Lake Tahoe to ski and that was enough. It's normally covered, so you have to look for it.

Rust is evil. It's entropy. You have to keep applying energy just to keep up with it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

“You need”

I have a 6 year old and I’m not w/ his dad. I wish but moving across the country is not going to happen most likely ever at this point. Saying that, doesn’t really do me much good. I appreciate the tips on welding tho.
Matt said similar. I’ll check my flow, grind the junk down and try again.

 

[Willard]

Good on you for trying to save this beast. You need to move out of the salt. Nevada, California, Arizona, maybe New Mexico.

Frame rust would make me crazy, so good work and keep going.

As an aside, have you removed the vinyl covers over the rear wheel arches? Even here in California I've had some rust spots inside the rear wheel arches on the vertical surface. The PO took it to Lake Tahoe to ski and that was enough. It's normally covered, so you have to look for it.

Rust is evil. It's entropy. You have to keep applying energy just to keep up with it.

Rust is inevitable in these vehicles. Living anywhere that they treat the roads (salt is not the worse they use these days) it will creep in and eat exposed metal
That said there are ways to protect metal. Oiling the chassis, using things like fluid film/ Waxoyl in the corners of the body, etc.
While you cannot get everywhere (some cases due to heat) anyplace helps.
My rig grew up in Chicago area, then moved to Rhode Island and finally to New Hampshire. None of these are great places for rust.
The PO oiled the chassis and also did the rear wheel wells (much later) . The chassis held up and is actually looking great. Some minor lifting at the C Channels, but nothing that I need to address any time soon. The upper shock mount broke and was replaced, aside from that places that were not treated rusted out (heater tubes, mounts for heat shields)
The wheel wells as they were done late, needed some work but now are back to their former glory and will be sprayed on the inside with Fluid film as will everywhere else I can get it in.

So Rust sucks, but how we deal with it in the East is what matters. Ignore it and there will be nothing left. Treat it and the vehicle will last for years.

Patching the panels and rebuilding part of the frame is fine. You HAVE to spray the heck out of it when done to protect it.

Heck is if a 45 year+ old Land Rover can survive with just using Waxoyl then our Cruisers will be fine.
For those that do not know old Land Rover frames are made of Tin I swear.

 

[MarkBC]

Before spraying anything with oil I'd clean it off of loose rust and grease / dirt, then spray with Eastwood frame saver paint (can't remember the exact name). This will add extra protection. I saw a video where it held up best after a year. POR15 didn't hold up well at all.

What I do is just not drive them in winter salt... and if I do I immediately thoroughly wash off.

Look at this awesome video on restoring an old Range Rover. Most of it magically repairs itself. I want to look into getting some of that self-welding sheet metal but it probably costs a pretty penny.