Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (2 Viewers)

[cruisermatt]

That's also a main cap.

 

[cruisermatt]

Also, I edited this into the previous post but not sure if you saw it. Really important.

You said 0.025" clearence on the rod bearings? Are you sure that wasn't 0.0025"? You put the plastiguage between the bearing surface and journal right?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Mains stay in place, the rod bearings move up and down.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Sorry, just re-read your previous post and saw you already removed rod bearings to plastiguage them. Post up a few good pictures of the crank journals and the rod bearings. At >200k assuming it had oil in it you shouldn't have bottom end issues on these motors. I'm shocked that the cam bearings went.

When @Cruiserdrew refered to main bearings he's talking about the four big ones that hold the crankshaft into the block.

You said 0.025" on the rod bearings? Are you sure that wasn't 0.0025"? You put the plastiguage between the bearing surface and journal right?

Yes between the journal and bearing. Photos of #2 then 4. First one threw me cuz bearing got stuck to the journal by the plastigage and I had to gently pry it off w/ a wood scraper I made. Hmmm, am I reading this wrong? .025 is what I see...

 

[cruisermatt]

OH, that's in millimeters. You had me seriously worried for a sec. Let me convert that to Freedom Units real quick.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Book says... so I went w/ the mm side.

 

[cruisermatt]

Yeah, that looks fine. Put up a picture of the bearing.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yeah, that looks fine. Put up a picture of the bearing.

Two photos of #2 and two of #4.
Both have pock marks. 4 has a 1-2mm naked to the eye gouge.
Mistakenly only took photos of inner curve.

 

[cruisermatt]

Those look pretty good from pictures, but they are pictures. If they fail the fingernail test it's probably a good idea to replace them. If not put em back in.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

So those look like worn bearings. Normal in the scheme of things at 190K. Somewhere in it's past, someone neglected the oil changes it should have had!

Get it back together and run it. You could have 10 years or 1 month. You won't really know. I'm hoping it goes back together and runs perfectly for many years. But I will say, that at 190K you are closer to the end, than the beginning. Just the way of it. The 2Fs that make it to 400K, nearly all belong to original owners who really cared since it was new.

 

[cruisermatt]

I agree. Those look like every 200k mile F-motor I've disassembled (about a dozen). I'd replace them if you can stand to wait for parts. Not sure what your timeline is on expected reassembly. I wouldn't bother touching the mains.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Realistically I’m looking at a few days over the next few weeks to get her back together. Work, kid. I can’t work straight out on the truck as much as I’d like. I’ll need to fix that crank keyway too... probably should have taken both Drew. Wasn’t thinking.
I’ll look into new rod bearings. But shhh, please don’t say, “while your in there, do the rings too.”

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

PN 13202-60011 or 11704-61710 (previously 11202)?

 

[cruisermatt]

You’re going to have to measure the rod journals and determine what size bearings you need.
If your motor is original you will most likely just need STD. size, but you need to measure.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

You’re going to have to measure the rod journals and determine what size bearings you need.
If your motor is original you will most likely just need STD. size, but you need to measure.

Gotcha. Ok. Yeah that’s what’s in. I def noted STD on the two I had my hands on. Thanks.
Very specific measuring tools correct?

 

[cruisermatt]

Gotcha. Ok. Yeah that’s what’s in. I def noted STD on the two I had my hands on. Thanks.
Very specific measuring tools correct?

You need to be measuring this to thousandths of an inch..
in a pinch (you’re in a pinch right now!) get your hands on some digital calipers from Harbor Freight. It’s not 100% kosher but they are good enough to let you know what size range you’re in.
Use the FSM for the diameters.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Digital calipers are not sufficiently precise. You'll need a micrometer. If you're going to really measure.

Assuming you keep the same crank, and it has "std" rod bearings now, you have little to loose by installing a set of new "std" ones. I want to say I got a set of these from Specter for like $35, so not a huge expense.

PM sent regarding the crankshaft, but unless you do a full real and correct rebuild, it's probably best to stay with the one you have.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ill ask around couple machinist friends might have one. My digital caliper is very good, a gift but I understand getting it down to the micro digits.
Thank you all!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

What size meter do I need?. Two folks have some. I’m at work multitasking. Someone willing to look in their book for me?

 

[Prairie Swamp]

You need to borrow a "2 to 3" micrometer for both crank main and con-rod big end journals. If you are going to measure the cam bearing journals you need a "1 to 2" micrometer. These are expensive and delicate tools.

Follow the FSM carefully as they have you taking multiple measurements per location. This is important to get right if you want any longevity.