Bud
Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
- Start date
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,082
Getting it done. I won’t deny a bit of anxiety.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Looking good F. She will be back to normal in no time.. Well subjective normal that is!
NeverGiveUpYota
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- Thread starter
- #1,085
Ok so trying to turn the rotor round and round is a SOB. I get it that it shouldn’t be that difficult so what’s too tight that isn’t giving enough slack to the rotor to do spins? I’ve only got one lock but washer on and I’ve loosened it. I tried a scale and it’s a joke.
And should the backing plate be so “almost” overlapped to the edge of the rotor?
I’ve closed up shop for today as I need to go get my son from his dad. But hit me up w/ where I screwed up.
And should the backing plate be so “almost” overlapped to the edge of the rotor?
I’ve closed up shop for today as I need to go get my son from his dad. But hit me up w/ where I screwed up.
Did you set the bearings first as per FSM? Then loosen nut till you can loosen by hand, I loosen it then tighten by hand till it just starts getting resistance. Then you use the fish scale to find resistance from the dust seal etc. You will subtract this amount from your fish scale reading after you torque the nut to the inch pounds spec to find bearing preload. So, you may have 5 or so lbs resistance from the seals, then after you torque the nut, the scale may say 13 but the actual bearing preload would be 13-5 for 8lbs preload.
Edit: it looks from the pics it might be hanging up on the dust seal. Might be a good idea to pull it back off and make sure the seal is oriented right and make sure the lip of it is greased up.
Edit: it looks from the pics it might be hanging up on the dust seal. Might be a good idea to pull it back off and make sure the seal is oriented right and make sure the lip of it is greased up.
NeverGiveUpYota
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- Thread starter
- #1,087
Ok maybe that is where it’s hing up. I had a bear of a time pushing the rotor and hub into the dust seal. Very little spindle thread was showing so I got the first washer on then one nut and used the monster socket to pull/push the two together. Maybe they’re cockeyed. I’ll check that out. Thanks Marc!
NeverGiveUpYota
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- Thread starter
- #1,088
Sure thing. It shouldn’t require using the nut to push it passed the seal. A little rotating back and forth while pushing and it should pop right in. May be a silly question but you put the seal on right side out?
NeverGiveUpYota
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- Thread starter
- #1,091
Yeah and thanks to Georg being a great sales man he sent 4 seals so I did pull the first thinking somehow I’d f’d up the race and the bearing but nada.
Won’t get much of a chance to work on it for a day or so. Maybe nap time tmrw depending on weather.
Won’t get much of a chance to work on it for a day or so. Maybe nap time tmrw depending on weather.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,092
That’s what Jim @CenTXFJ60 pretty much said too.... but he’s proof it wasn’t slipping on like expected. He graciously FaceTimed w/ me and watched me pull the seal and check that I’d installed the races and bearing correctly. I was pushing two hands 3 and 9 and alternating and even tried pushing w/ my knees. It wasn’t mating together at all.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
That whole fish scale thing is a bogus way to set up the bearings in my opinion.
Better to just tighten down the inner nut while rotating the hub and tighten it down pretty tight to seat everything. Then back it off, then torque to 10 foot pounds, put on the star and the outer nut and torque to spec. Stiff cold grease changes the fish scale method way too much for it to be reliable. You can also go higher on the inner nut torque but 10 will get you in the ballpark. Since you used new bearings, you are going to want to go back in those bearings and retorque in a few thousand miles anyway. Once you do that, they will be good to go for a very long time.
But..since you did use new bearings, are you absolutely certain the races are all the way seated into the bottom of their seats? If not,that will cause your threads to appear "too short".
Anyway if you're bored and want to read up on the alternate methods of setting front wheelbearing pre-load, there is a long thread in the 80 section I'm sure you can find. Bottom line, more preload to a point, is a more reliable, much easier was to set these up. More pre-load INCREASES load carrying capacity, and the Arizona guys have experimented with up to 30 foot pounds of torque on the inner nut with the bearing running happily without burning up. Your bearings are new so you might start out at the lower end of the scale to begin with and once run in, then increase as desired. I run my fronts between 15 and 20 foot pounds on the inner nut, and they hold adjustment a long time.
And BTW-With new grease, and especially if it's cold, it can be hard to rotate the hub by hand like your video shows.
Better to just tighten down the inner nut while rotating the hub and tighten it down pretty tight to seat everything. Then back it off, then torque to 10 foot pounds, put on the star and the outer nut and torque to spec. Stiff cold grease changes the fish scale method way too much for it to be reliable. You can also go higher on the inner nut torque but 10 will get you in the ballpark. Since you used new bearings, you are going to want to go back in those bearings and retorque in a few thousand miles anyway. Once you do that, they will be good to go for a very long time.
But..since you did use new bearings, are you absolutely certain the races are all the way seated into the bottom of their seats? If not,that will cause your threads to appear "too short".
Anyway if you're bored and want to read up on the alternate methods of setting front wheelbearing pre-load, there is a long thread in the 80 section I'm sure you can find. Bottom line, more preload to a point, is a more reliable, much easier was to set these up. More pre-load INCREASES load carrying capacity, and the Arizona guys have experimented with up to 30 foot pounds of torque on the inner nut with the bearing running happily without burning up. Your bearings are new so you might start out at the lower end of the scale to begin with and once run in, then increase as desired. I run my fronts between 15 and 20 foot pounds on the inner nut, and they hold adjustment a long time.
And BTW-With new grease, and especially if it's cold, it can be hard to rotate the hub by hand like your video shows.
Last edited:
I was thinking more of the dust seal that bolts on with the spindle.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,096
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,098
I pulled the seal then w/ Jim on the phone we both inspected the races and how seated they were. I was really careful and I made sure I couldn’t slip my finger nail between the seat and the edge of the race. I feel quite certain I got them and he could see it as good as he could via FaceTime.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #1,100
The OD of the rear hub barely got painted. It only got a little from the angle of the can doing the top half but not any that I’d done on purpose.
