Build Work In Progress aka: Badass

[Infinity00]

It’s a liquid that is used to protect metal, commonly used to clean up steel guns but can be used on any steel.

Like this
https://www.amazon.com/s/?tag=ihco-20

 

[Infinity00]

Makes it black not blue though

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Interesting stuff.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

About your hubs, I guess the rust might be of a concern IDK. I’ve put gun blue on stuff before to protect it and it looks great. I wonder if that would be a better option than oil.

I’ve really been liking the fact we have such a great group to share our (love of) mechanical work with. It seems so few people I know want to hear me talk about it! I like it when I have time, but I still get really cranky when I have to do something hard - like the knuckleS. Once again, I’m impressed with what seems like you just go do it. I know you’ve said that not exactly true and I know that as well, because I can tell you research the hell out of everything before you start. It’s a lot of dedication and for me obsessiveness.

I say all this because I still learned something from this thread everyday and kick myself when I find out I didn’t check something that I’ve already completed that comes up. Maybe the next time, since it seems my knuckles are already leaking and so is my radiator, even tho they both have very few hours on them. Also, I had help from a mechanic friend of mine for most of my rebuilds - I would have been even more terrified the entire time than I was, if he wasn’t there coaching and leaving it to me to do the “fun parts” even though he really wanted to jump in there. More props (I’m dating myself) to you doing it on your own!

How clean would the surface have to be? I’m about toast on trying to wire off the rest of the POs poor paint job.

 

[Infinity00]

Good question. I’ll ask my metal working friend.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Very clean - as in sand blast, ground, sanded, or polished in order to work properly. Gun blues or browns are intentional oxidation/rusting that provides very limited rust protection (any "blued" gun will rust if not kept dry and oiled.) It might do something but it's not the right application IMHO. Others may have had other experiences tho.

Just rattle can them or simply enjoy the patina. It's not like they're going to rust through.

 

[Infinity00]

There ya go. I’ve only used it on my dizzy housing cuz I liked how it looked. And my friend uses it on indoor railings but I forgot that it probably won’t last on outdoor stuff.

 

[Infinity00]

Unless it’s coated with a hard finish. Thanks for the info @Prairie Swamp

 

[Infinity00]

Unless it’s coated with a hard finish. Thanks for the info @Prairie Swamp

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

It's not like they're going to rust through.

Not going to rust through but will gradually take on a layer of rust?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Strongly recommend against bluing. Then you'd have to keep it oiled like a gun to prevent rust. You want paint or very carefully applied powder coat. I'd recommend paint. Clean it with a wire wheel and the evaporust as well as you can, then spray ospho on it, when dry paint it. I recommend the Rustoleum Professional 2-3 coats. It will need to be redone in time especially in a corrosion prone environment like yours but it should last until the next wheel bearing repack in 30,000 miles.

But seriously, a phosphoric acid treatment (like Ospho, there are many others), really helps with the existing rust and leaves behind an excellent surface to adhere paint to. I spray the ospho on with a chemical resistant spay bottle from the hardware store, then let it dry, then paint.

If you really want to over do it, check out electrolysis in a Sodium Carbonate (washing soda) solution. THe single best method of ferrous metal preservation. And it's fun in a complex chemistry way. I would not bother but it's out there if you want to look into it. Makes a huge non-toxic mess too, so that's also fun.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I do have the Ospho and a spray bottle. I can give that a shot. I’m just not getting far w/ my dinky battery operated drill and wire brush. I could use the angle grinder but I’m worried it might be a tad too forceful?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

electrolysis

That would be w/ an extra battery charger right? I have one charger and do not want to sacrifice it.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

That would be w/ an extra battery charger right? I have one charger and do not want to sacrifice it.

Yes-it does take a 12 volt battery charger-typically an older transformer based dumb charger. The kind you find at yard sales for $5. I have an ancient Schumacher charger that works great because it has no smart features.

Keep it in mind, next time you see a cheap or free charger, buy it for this purpose.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Honestly, what you've done is already 100 times more than virtually anyone does. I wirewheel, paint with 1 coat, then re-install. It will be fine. These are cast steel, and even if they look rusty a bit, it doesn't compromise the structure.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

If I don’t paint, how will they look in time? Speckled w/ orange rust like my rotor that sat for a few weeks?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

They will look rusty in short order. I would paint. Even if it's just a quick spray bomb job, it will be far better than nothing. And given the rusty environment, I'd asctually do a good job painting-good prep, 2-3 coats. You can do it all in a few hours.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So a quick indoor chore since the weather is junk outside here in CT.
Free wheel hub getting a good clean up. Glad to see the stock gold paint is in decent condition under a POs lazy black paint job.

 

[OGBeno]

You have the o-ring for the center dial, right?

 

[Prairie Swamp]

You have the o-ring for the center dial, right?

Just last night - going thru my hoard of parts that have been sitting too long. Found those o-rings and had totally forgotten what they were for until Beno's post. They looked like the air seal rings for an ARB locker but I didn't remember buying any. I've gotten better at labeling parts packages that are not totally obvious.