Window Seals (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Ditcherman said:
Sorry I can't answer your question - yet - about which is better, one or two piece as I haven't gotten that far in my build yet, but I have got a ton of stuff from city racer, they are definitely your friend imo. I will be doing some of both, the locking strip is involved mainly with my sliding rear window setup.
Have you looked into what City Racer offers or advises?
I'd be surprised if they didn't have exactly what you need.

Guess the flip side is, how much do you trust your local glass shop, and want them to back you up just in case? Are they just saying that because they don't want to do it (nonstandard work) or are they giving you valuable advice?
Click to expand...

Good question.
 
FloridaLife said:
Nope. And I may be wrong, but when I first bought it at the end of May and got on here to ask if there was some way to find out the history of it, I thought you said no. If there is a way to find out, I'd love to do it.

Guys on here said the head shown in pics was one that would gain compression just bolting it on, a late 1F. Cruisermatt ran the number on the OEM carb and said it shows to be a '73 - '74 carb. So there's no telling.
Click to expand...

Asking a out the history was to the person I quoted.

As for recommendations OEM. Been at this fifty years and collected my own junk yard of parts.


FloridaLife said:
Uh, change the glass... From what I've heard on here and what I've seen, the metal glass opening is different for models built after 7/'71.
Click to expand...

Metal stayed the same size, it did not change.
The type of weatherstripping changed along with the size of the glass and they have to match. You can use either style before and after 7/71 as long as the weatherstripping matches the glass.
 
FloridaLife said:
Uh, change the glass... From what I've heard on here and what I've seen, the metal glass opening is different for models built after 7/'71.
Click to expand...
If City Racer says it will work then it most likely will.
 
The right side hard top has the same part number 3/69-1/75. Left hand side changed 9/73 and show the later part number as a sub for the earlier. The 9/73 change was an opening in the B pillar for the room light. Previous years the room light used two bolts in the hard top side to the cap to mount it. 73 Toyota added a captive nut in the top of the sides for three point seat belt. This was a across the line change on all hard top sides no matter the style of rear door or market. In the US three point seat belts were required from 1/76 on. Other markets were earlier. This change is not reflected by a part number change.

Toyota has only supported 3/69 and newer for many years but this has hard top style went back to mid 1965. Prior to 9/67 (start of the 68 model) the windshield wiper was two separate motor and attachment to the windshield was a little different. This hard top sides continued until the end of the 40 series. Markets like the US had a post added 8/76 for a vent windows. Australia had vent windows and sliding windows. They also had a hatch and ambulance door option at the same time. The hard top sides from mid 1965 on were fairly easy to adapt to any style.

My 73 top on my 68 FJ40 has has vent windows since the mid eighties.
IMG_20190822_190135850.jpg

Posts, vent windows, hardware and side windows weatherstripping were off a wrecked 78 at a wrecking yard. Side glass was bought new from Toyota.
 
Glad I have found this information you guys are discussing….My US spec May 1975 FJ40 has ambulance doors and I have been sitting on a set of window weatherstrip for the last 18 months. The slight ding in the door bothered me so I cut the old weatherstrip out and repaired the ding and re-painted and polished the door.

I am trying to re-install the glass and the new rubber for 10 days now. Usually after 30 minutes the frustration gets the best of me and I give up for a day. My latest attempt is for the rope trick but either way the glass seems like it is 1” too big EVEN THOUGH it’s the glass that came out of the door.

Could this gasket sizing issue be something to consider? When I ordered it, it was for a 1975-1984 ambulance door FJ40.

It could also be something I have never done before just biting me in the butt…


IMG_3137.jpeg
IMG_3138.jpeg
 
knuckle47 said:
Glad I have found this information you guys are discussing….My US spec May 1975 FJ40 has ambulance doors and I have been sitting on a set of window weatherstrip for the last 18 months. The slight ding in the door bothered me so I cut the old weatherstrip out and repaired the ding and re-painted and polished the door.

I am trying to re-install the glass and the new rubber for 10 days now. Usually after 30 minutes the frustration gets the best of me and I give up for a day. My latest attempt is for the rope trick but either way the glass seems like it is 1” too big EVEN THOUGH it’s the glass that came out of the door.

Could this gasket sizing issue be something to consider? When I ordered it, it was for a 1975-1984 ambulance door FJ40.

It could also be something I have never done before just biting me in the butt…


View attachment 3708820View attachment 3708821
Click to expand...

Are you spraying it with soapy water or silicone lubricant before trying to get the glass in? The YouTube videos I've watched about it say you have to spray it with soapy water or silicone lubricant to get the glass in. Here is another video of Mike installing the glass in an FJ40:
 
Thanks @FloridaLife …before I started this I had built up an arsenal of knowledge, I loaded my old brain up with as many details as I could. Yes, I have seen a Mike Restores an FJ40 several times including the comment he made about making his own tool with the coat hanger wire but should have bought the manufacturers tool.

Armed with that and reading every potential piece of information I could, I can only believe, I may have the wrong gasket. Ordered another set last night about 2:00am EST since this is a thorn in my side. If it still F’s up, I’ll have no problem bringing her to a glass shop where it may take more than a conversation with the guys there to get this done.💰. What’s ironic here is that my very bestest friend and 35 year riding buddy owned a glass shop and did this stuff for a half century. Sadly he is no longer here.

Have you made any progress along these lines? By the way, I am following along with the progress your are making and you may be aware of many other MUD members with YouTube tutorials and documentary videos. @OTRAMM and @zerotreedelta (Lone Wolf Works), Humble Acres and so many other. My search bar on YouTube almost automatically sees “FJ40” and auto fills the balance 😁
 
knuckle47 said:
Thanks @FloridaLife …before I started this I had built up an arsenal of knowledge, I loaded my old brain up with as many details as I could. Yes, I have seen a Mike Restores an FJ40 several times including the comment he made about making his own tool with the coat hanger wire but should have bought the manufacturers tool.

Armed with that and reading every potential piece of information I could, I can only believe, I may have the wrong gasket. Ordered another set last night about 2:00am EST since this is a thorn in my side. If it still F’s up, I’ll have no problem bringing her to a glass shop where it may take more than a conversation with the guys there to get this done.💰. What’s ironic here is that my very bestest friend and 35 year riding buddy owned a glass shop and did this stuff for a half century. Sadly he is no longer here.

Have you made any progress along these lines? By the way, I am following along with the progress your are making and you may be aware of many other MUD members with YouTube tutorials and documentary videos. @OTRAMM and @zerotreedelta (Lone Wolf Works), Humble Acres and so many other. My search bar on YouTube almost automatically sees “FJ40” and auto fills the balance 😁
Click to expand...

Speaking of Mike and the tool he made, here are a couple of Amazon links to that tool from $11 to $16:


Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013IOKID8/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=A1JM0GP1F9S1NU&psc=1

My FJ40 is still at the paint & body shop and keeps getting pushed to the side to knock out quick collision jobs, and at the price I'm paying I can't complain to them. I got a bunch of parts from cruisermatt like a new radiator, all the belts & hoses, axle seals, diff gasket, exhaust flange & gasket, and a skid plate. And I had the skid plate, air cleaner, and new rear cross member (that the bumperettes bolt to) powder coated. That's about it right now.

Thanks for those 2 names. I'll look them up and watch some videos.
 
FloridaLife said:
City Racer doesn't have mine. They have the vent window seals, but not the others.
Click to expand...
They do if you change the glass…
www.cityracerllc.com

Long Side Window Weatherstrips for '72 to '76 FJ40 - Set of 2

Set of 2 long side window weatherstrips for 7/'71 to 8/'76 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 without a rear vent window. Accurate reproduction based on NOS sample. Equivalent to discontinued OEM part # 62741-90300. Same part fits LH and RH side. Note: Cars earlier than 7/'71 can use this weatherstrip if...
www.cityracerllc.com

Completely understand you might not want to do this, but if you do something custom and then break a window you’re stuck with the old size glass, not buying a used piece 71-76.

It’d be interesting to know what the difference was in the glass, if all the metal is the same size. You might have a hard time getting off the shelf weatherstripping to fit it too? Maybe that’s why no one offers it, if it’s an odd size fit up?
Have you checked pricing for weatherstripping using your glass? For my custom sliders the cost is maybe 10 times because I have to buy full rolls of material. Will sell kits when I’m done to recoup some of this, just saying 110 bucks to city racer and the cost of a used window gets you “normal” as opposed to “one off” and might not cost any more.
 
I bought the seals off Amazon when I did mine. I used the ones with a locking strip as I was going for as close to original look as possible. It was a bulk length I cut to fit.

As said: you need to get a gasket/seal with as close to stock specs as possible and use that with your glass OR, you buy new glass and the newer seal from CityRacer, etc.
Was the glass in your hardtop when you bought it? Any pics of the seal? These are decades old and no matter what anyone says, anyone could’ve done anything at any point to them that deviates from stock. (Hell, mine’s one of only 2 column shifted 4 speeds on the planet: find that in a microfiche! @red66toy)
 
Skreddy said:
I bought the seals off Amazon when I did mine. I used the ones with a locking strip as I was going for as close to original look as possible. It was a bulk length I cut to fit.

As said: you need to get a gasket/seal with as close to stock specs as possible and use that with your glass OR, you buy new glass and the newer seal from CityRacer, etc.
Was the glass in your hardtop when you bought it? Any pics of the seal? These are decades old and no matter what anyone says, anyone could’ve done anything at any point to them that deviates from stock. (Hell, mine’s one of only 2 column shifted 4 speeds on the planet: find that in a microfiche! @red66toy)
Click to expand...

Yes, thankfully all the glass was in it when I bought it a couple of months ago, and none of it cracked or broken. I went over to the paint and body shop a few weeks ago and removed all the glass myself (they didn't want to for fear one might break) and I probably should have kept a small piece to measure and match up. I know it sure looked original, and was mostly as hard as a rock. Getting the locking strip out was a challenge. What I thought would take 20 to 30 minutes took over 3 hours. I'll try to get by there and get a measurement on the glass thickness.

Do you remember how many feet of seal it took? I see a 10 foot roll, and a 25 foot roll. I'm wondering if the 25 foot roll would be enough, or if I need to get both a 25' and 10' roll?

Thank you.
 
Ditcherman said:
They do if you change the glass…
www.cityracerllc.com

Long Side Window Weatherstrips for '72 to '76 FJ40 - Set of 2

Set of 2 long side window weatherstrips for 7/'71 to 8/'76 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 without a rear vent window. Accurate reproduction based on NOS sample. Equivalent to discontinued OEM part # 62741-90300. Same part fits LH and RH side. Note: Cars earlier than 7/'71 can use this weatherstrip if...
www.cityracerllc.com

Completely understand you might not want to do this, but if you do something custom and then break a window you’re stuck with the old size glass, not buying a used piece 71-76.

It’d be interesting to know what the difference was in the glass, if all the metal is the same size. You might have a hard time getting off the shelf weatherstripping to fit it too? Maybe that’s why no one offers it, if it’s an odd size fit up?
Have you checked pricing for weatherstripping using your glass? For my custom sliders the cost is maybe 10 times because I have to buy full rolls of material. Will sell kits when I’m done to recoup some of this, just saying 110 bucks to city racer and the cost of a used window gets you “normal” as opposed to “one off” and might not cost any more.
Click to expand...

I remember reading that the shape of the metal and the glass is different. I remember that, for example, the long side window for some reason they made 3 of the corners the same but the 4th corner different. Seemed odd to me. And I think I read the back curved corners are a different size, and then there's the lift gate instead of ambulance doors.
 
FloridaLife said:
Yes, thankfully all the glass was in it when I bought it a couple of months ago, and none of it cracked or broken. I went over to the paint and body shop a few weeks ago and removed all the glass myself (they didn't want to for fear one might break) and I probably should have kept a small piece to measure and match up. I know it sure looked original, and was mostly as hard as a rock. Getting the locking strip out was a challenge. What I thought would take 20 to 30 minutes took over 3 hours. I'll try to get by there and get a measurement on the glass thickness.

Do you remember how many feet of seal it took? I see a 10 foot roll, and a 25 foot roll. I'm wondering if the 25 foot roll would be enough, or if I need to get both a 25' and 10' roll?

Thank you.
Click to expand...
I used this on my 71 when I did it. I bought a 30’ and a 10’ roll but can’t remember if that was for just hardtop or if I used it on the windshield also.

M M SEALS E009-30F EPDM Dense... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NPWJDNJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
FloridaLife said:
I remember reading that the shape of the metal and the glass is different. I remember that, for example, the long side window for some reason they made 3 of the corners the same but the 4th corner different. Seemed odd to me. And I think I read the back curved corners are a different size, and then there's the lift gate instead of ambulance doors.
Click to expand...
See post 25 and 26, lots of info in there.

The corner windows are all the same through the years I believe, someone can correct my if I’m wrong.

The back doors are independent of the tops, hardware and cross meter differences only.

All series of tops have 3 corners with a 1.5 “ radius and one corner with a 3 3/8” radius.
 
FloridaLife said:
I remember reading that the shape of the metal and the glass is different. I remember that, for example, the long side window for some reason they made 3 of the corners the same but the 4th corner different. Seemed odd to me. And I think I read the back curved corners are a different size, and then there's the lift gate instead of ambulance doors.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't start buying anything until you do all you research and 100% what you are getting what will work. You say the metal changed 7/71 how do you explain the hard top side part number did not change on the date. Other than the rear hatch later glass will be easier to find to find.

Skreddy said:
I used this on my 71 when I did it. I bought a 30’ and a 10’ roll but can’t remember if that was for just hardtop or if I used it on the windshield also.

M M SEALS E009-30F EPDM Dense... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NPWJDNJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Click to expand...
Do you have a pictures of your weatherstripping installed and of your windows installed? Curious if the recessed glass has a non locking strip option. Would be the way to get with if have the earlier glass. I still have the sides and hatch from my 68. Driver's side and hatch were not damaged. Passenger's the large glass broke. I was working on fixing the passenger's side when I located a 73 top for a great price. I'm guessing I still have the weatherstripping for the broken glass and the weatherstripping with the corner glass. Replaced the top in 1976 so I've held on to it for a while.

Ditcherman said:
See post 25 and 26, lots of info in there.

The corner windows are all the same through the years I believe, someone can correct my if I’m wrong.
Click to expand...

The hard top sides do not have a part number change 7/71 but the glass and weatherstripping do. On both of those the later part number I not a sub for the earlier part number. I posted pictures of both styles earlier in this thread. The earlier style the glass is recessed and would fit thru the opening in the metal. Later style glass is flush with the outside and weatherstripping stands out a little further.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

wchevron
Window Felts
Replies
2
Views
541
rainingagain
R
wchevron
Window adjustment
Replies
4
Views
536
wchevron
wchevron
Bucho
FJ40 Top Seal
Replies
4
Views
622
Bucho
Bucho
J
  • Question
Door window channels
Replies
8
Views
1K
csnoke
csnoke

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom